← Home ← Back to /ic/

Thread 7577052

301 posts 92 images /ic/
Anonymous No.7577052 [Report] >>7578594 >>7580439 >>7597795 >>7599677 >>7606304 >>7620117
Art Supply General
Leave reviews, ask questions, and generally discuss anything and everything art supplies.

As a thread opening question, let's talk about colored pencils: What are your favorites and do you prefer Oil or Wax based if you tried both? What are the best solvents to use for blending? Should you use solvents or are blending tortillions enough? Or just your fingers? Talk about it here.
Anonymous No.7577241 [Report] >>7579462 >>7588068
does anyone have a specific brand of latex glove they like using for oil painting, or is this one of those things that it doesn't matter and just buy the cheap generic brand.
Anonymous No.7577242 [Report] >>7577303
I use chink crayons from cotsco
Anonymous No.7577243 [Report] >>7598288
Lyra colored pencils are GOAT material
Anonymous No.7577287 [Report] >>7586585 >>7631917
I really enjoy using these for sketching. They give you a line weight I really fuck with and last a while
Anonymous No.7577297 [Report] >>7578350
Anonymous No.7577303 [Report]
>>7577242
Did you just make a pun. Dude.
Anonymous No.7578263 [Report]
Anonymous No.7578295 [Report]
I fucking hate colored pencils. Markers all the way.
Anonymous No.7578350 [Report]
>>7577297
nice
Anonymous No.7578432 [Report] >>7579145
I used to own the plastic version of the Kuru toga but it broke and I got the metal one to replace it. It's alright but it takes smaller erasers than the old plastic one and I already have like 3 packs of replacement erasers. Has anyone made them work?
Anonymous No.7578594 [Report]
>>7577052 (OP)
Polychromos are the best and don't require smudging your shit to "blend", just keep layering.
Anonymous No.7579145 [Report] >>7579901
>>7578432
im using advance upgrade, whats the difference?
Anonymous No.7579165 [Report] >>7579217
memetogas are shit tier pencils for drawing
Anonymous No.7579217 [Report] >>7579219 >>7579224
>>7579165
why
Anonymous No.7579219 [Report] >>7579221
>>7579217
the mechanism is designed for short strokes when writing, doesn't do shit while drawing fluidly and by necessity means the tip is wobbly because it's activated by the lead physically being pushed back into the pencil
Anonymous No.7579221 [Report] >>7579229
>>7579219
I can only feel its wobbly on the last ~2cm of the lead
Anonymous No.7579224 [Report] >>7579225
>>7579217
You have to draw like a neanderthal for the gimmick to activate at all and the non-turbo version takes something like 30 strokes to rotate the lead, which is fine if you're toddler making 3 strokes per letter because you can't into cursive but useless for drawing.
Anonymous No.7579225 [Report]
>>7579224
Actually it was probably designed for kanji now that I think about it.
Anonymous No.7579229 [Report] >>7579235
>>7579221
it's very noticeably wobbly by design, the give is built in
Anonymous No.7579235 [Report] >>7579238
>>7579229
idk man, have you ever used one, it doesnt seem any different than a regular mechanical pencil to me
Anonymous No.7579238 [Report] >>7579253
>>7579235
you're tard-handed, idk what to tell you
the only reason I'm posting is that I'm still pissed about being memed into buying it itt
Anonymous No.7579253 [Report] >>7579326 >>7579469
>>7579238
ok can you recommend me a proper drawing pencil then
Anonymous No.7579326 [Report] >>7579910
>>7579253
pentel sharp gets recommended, I unironically went back to my rotring tikky and called it a day
fixed tips and no meme mechanics is best, I want to control my broad side as I draw anyway
Anonymous No.7579462 [Report]
>>7577241

Doesn't matter but do mind that latex deteriorates through contact with solvents. Nitril doesn't so you might want to buy gloves made of that instead.
Anonymous No.7579469 [Report]
>>7579253
nta
I bought a box of 60 bics for like 18 dollars. No wobble, super light, zero worry about losing them or them breaking because I just grab a new one.
Anonymous No.7579483 [Report]
Pencils with gimmicks like rotating lead or retractable tips have wobble because the tip isn't fixed to the pencil, it's "floating" which allows for that movement. You can feel it but if it's bothering you it's mostly up to you. Drafting pencils, which are any pencil with a fixed tip which have a 4mm sleeve, like the Sharps, Graphgears, Tikkys, or Pilots H32X line,don't have wobbly tips because they are made for drafting and drawing, not writing. This is the same reason why a Rotring 600 doesn't have a wobbly tip but an 800, which is like 3x the price, does. The Kuru Togas were made to accomodate to asian writing, with short strokes which will activate the rotating gimmick, but it's completely useless for drawing, especially considering you want that chiseled tip to get line variation. This is why I'd reccomend .7 or .9 at the very least if you wanna draw, rotating gimmicks or not. I do own a mono graph which has this shaker mechanism and honestly it feels like it gets stuck sometimes. While not a shaker, a Pentel Techniclick has a side button to push the lead, which could be more comfortable if you're looking to get more lead on the go. It comes in .5 and .7 and it's dirt cheap. Pentel are the best ones if you're looking durable pencils which are dirt cheap, my Sharp pencils have lasted longer than a decade and they're just made out of plastic.
Anonymous No.7579901 [Report]
>>7579145
The advance rotates the lead twice much than the normal one. My one has a metal shell but it still has the normal gear box
Anonymous No.7579910 [Report]
>>7579326
Yeah I fell for the gimmick too, It was created for writing Japanese and Kanji that has lots of small strokes per letter.

It's not so bad in my experience it rotates decently enough, I only use it for drafting and drawing outlines, not like shading or anything

I was going to buy a tikky when my plastic one broke but I bought a metal kuru toga thinking I could the old erasers I bought. :/
Anonymous No.7580439 [Report] >>7581265
>>7577052 (OP)
Those prismacolors look nice on paper, I still think they’re priced to high, you can call me poor but I dnt think that means the price isn’t too high


Wonder what amount of that is production labor and material cost versus actual profit
Anonymous No.7580828 [Report] >>7581174
Silicone is the best palette surface for acrylics.
It is (effectively) nonporous so it doesn't suck the water out of your paint, it cleans fully and easily, it's lightweight, and is cheap as fuck. You can either just keep layering and layering paint on it until its a mess and then flex it and the paint pops right off, or squirt some PVA glue down and slap some scrap paper onto it. When it dries peel it off. The glue adheres to the paper and the paint residue better than the silicone surface, so it comes up with 99% of the surface clean. Just wipe the rest down with some wet paper towel and u good to go.

No spending money on palette paper, no fucking with a big heavy glass plate and razor blades. The only thing it doesn't do is function like a wet palette, but since you can get silicone in hundreds of different shapes and it's RUBBER, if you frequently do start-stop sessions you can just get one with a lid, spritz the paint and place a damp paper towel or cotton ball or some such in before closing it up.

The only people I see who talk about silicone as a good palette are /tg/ warhammer painters for some reason.
Anonymous No.7581174 [Report]
>>7580828
That's really interesting, I've never thought about using silicone for a palette before I'll have to try that sometime
Anonymous No.7581265 [Report] >>7581280
>>7580439
>Newell
90% of it is going to loan sharks.
Anonymous No.7581280 [Report] >>7628838
>>7581265
retard, what do loan sharks need so many color pencils for?
Anonymous No.7582035 [Report] >>7582063 >>7582068
Arches is good I admit but they have no toned paper.
All the toned paper I HAVE used is uh, dogshit, Strathmore is basically a napkin that has no adhesion for example. I just need it for drawing.
What should I get?
Anonymous No.7582063 [Report]
>>7582035
I've used picrel with gouache without any issue
Anonymous No.7582068 [Report]
>>7582035
if push comes to shove you can tone your own paper with alcohol inks but it will be patchy
Anonymous No.7582095 [Report] >>7582179 >>7582189
something i never understood in trad drawings (not paintings) with charcoal or graphite is HOW do they sometimes make those white highlits on neutral tone papers
Anonymous No.7582179 [Report]
>>7582095
They use white pencils
Anonymous No.7582189 [Report]
>>7582095
white pencil or white gel pen, I got the uni-ball signo and it works pretty well. You could probably use the pen eraser or white pen ink.
Anonymous No.7582374 [Report] >>7582377 >>7582382
I dont do traditional often anymore but when I did I always went with mixed media. I use polychromomos and they are the best colored pencils that I have used. Some may prefer to use polychromos and prismacolor together but I have never tried that personally.

For markers, I use copic. I’m not exactly up to date on the “best” art supplies but when I was more into traditional those were the most popular. Definitely not the most affordable and I’m sure you can find a dupe for them that are way cheaper but they blend nicely. Good for covering large areas.

For watercolor I use the Winsor and Newton Cotman watercolor miniature palette. I’m not exactly a watercolor expert so I can’t say anything other than they do the job… and they’re also the only watercolor palette I’ve used.

And as previous anons have said, for the white highlights I usually prefer sakura jelly roll pens (not sure on the lightfastness of these) or a polychromos/derwent chinese white pencil.

And for the paper I’m not an expert either but I use bristol for mixed media pieces.
Anonymous No.7582377 [Report]
>>7582374
Oh, and for blending out colored pencils I use an odorless mineral spirit (i forget the brand). They’re interesting to use because it turns the pencils into an almost watercolor-like medium.
Anonymous No.7582382 [Report] >>7582384
>>7582374
cotman is unironically the shittiest, most overpriced commercial watercolor brand you can get
Anonymous No.7582384 [Report] >>7582397 >>7582402 >>7583450
>>7582382
Really? Like I said, I’m not a watercolor expert. Im pretty sure I just saw it on a youtube video and bought it without much thought.
Do you have any recommendations?
Anonymous No.7582397 [Report]
>>7582384
NTA but, the ones that came in a red case, the same you'd find at school except so ruined that white was brown
Anonymous No.7582402 [Report]
>>7582384
cotman is student grade, you can get van gogh, also student grade for less, at least in europe
white nights and roman szmal are artist grade and both are cheaper than cotman, roman szmal being pricier and generally considered higher quality than white nights
if you buy bigger tubes (15/20ml), other artist grade paint will be cheaper than cotman half-pans/8ml tubes, but you don't seem to use it much
for reference, roman szmal is around half the price of cotman for much, much higher quality paint and I think literally any alternative will rewet orders of magnitude better than dry cotmans
Anonymous No.7583272 [Report] >>7583749 >>7586343 >>7586351
>ink with fountain pens
>Pilot ink is super watery so it somehow seeps under the graphite layer, making it really hard to see where I've already inked

What's the solution here? Is there any fountain pen ink that sits on top of the paper the way india ink does?
Anonymous No.7583450 [Report]
>>7582384
For the price of the Cotman you could get a set of Van Gogh or Maimeriblu and they are so much better it's not even funny. Daniel Smith also has introductory sets but they're more expensive. If money is not an objection I LOVE M. Graham. Amazing quality Paints made with honey. they're super pigmented and flow beautifully, but are also super staining and that might turn some off of it.
Anonymous No.7583464 [Report]
In my personal opinion these are the best supplies I've found:
>Ohuhu alcohol markers
-price
-has refills for popular colors
-comes in a lot of variety
>Prismacolor Pencils
(especially vintage ones if you can get them)
>Paul Rubens watercolor
-smooth
-pigmented
-little goes a long way
-layers beautifully
>iCrayon watercolor crayons
-good for adding texture
-cheap on Amazon
-exact dupe for Caran d'Ache Neocolors
Anonymous No.7583499 [Report] >>7583856 >>7584280 >>7586343
is there a difference between artist masking tape and the stuff you use when painting the house?
Anonymous No.7583529 [Report]
I bought a pack of Derwent pencils, but they feel very scratchy and I'm very disappointed with their quality control (3 out of 24 pencils were full of glue and I couldn't sharpen them). Any suggestions? I know it's very basic, but my local art supply stores have very few options, maybe there are some nice pencils out there that I don't know about.
Anonymous No.7583678 [Report]
how do you properly use coloring pencils?
i have an old 120 faber-castell set from my sister but i feel like i'm overwhelming myself trying to pick out all of the colors i need and i'm probably trying to pick too many
Anonymous No.7583749 [Report]
>>7583272
I personally use Platinum carbon ink in my calligraphy pens and it's been very reliable! Waterproof too, so I use it in my watercolors. But I don't know if it's compatible with -all- pens. If your pen brand says it's ok to use with carbon ink I suggest give it a try.
Anonymous No.7583856 [Report] >>7584280
>>7583499
artists tape has less glue, or weaker glue so it comes off without ruining the paper.
you can take normal masking tape and get rid of some of the glue by apply it onto a cotton t-shirt first. or look for low-tack tape at a hardware store. tape branded for artists tend to be way overpriced.
Anonymous No.7584280 [Report]
>>7583499
>>7583856
A good dupe for artist tape is medical paper tape. It has weaker glue since it's meant to be non-abrasive and most stores carry some in different sizes. It's cheap too, I can get 2 rolls for $3 instead of $9 for 1 roll.
Anonymous No.7586343 [Report]
>>7583272
You need less absorbent paper.
>>7583499
The type I have (blick's storebrand) is heavier than masking tape and the glue they use seems to hold up against water and other shit, and holds firm without tearing the paper when removed.
I used to use masking tape and was surprised at how much better the artist tape held up. It also can come in a lot more widths for various techniques and uses. Unlike the medical tape the other anon suggested you don't need scissors to cut it.
Anonymous No.7586351 [Report]
>>7583272
>ink that sits on top of the paper
That's a property that pigment inks have, and as such it's part of what makes pigmented inks unsuitable for fountain pens in general. The way it sticks together, and the components it has, makes it thicker than other inks, especially dye based inks like FP's. Dyes "penetrate" the paper in a way, and stay there, while pigmented inks sit on top of it.
Anonymous No.7586584 [Report]
These are the king (once you remove the clip). Too bad Amazon won't sell them in my country.... They're BIC though, so you'd think they'd be sold in any Wal-Mart?
Anonymous No.7586585 [Report] >>7586700 >>7588054
>>7577287
you sketch with a .7mm pen?
Anonymous No.7586700 [Report] >>7586706 >>7587448
>>7586585
I wouldn't sketch with anything under a .7
Anonymous No.7586706 [Report]
>>7586700
>mfw sketching with a 0.5mm
Anonymous No.7586710 [Report]
i sketch with a 0.3 lol
Anonymous No.7587448 [Report] >>7587467
>>7586700
why
Anonymous No.7587467 [Report] >>7590091
>>7587448
both .3 and .5 just don't feel right for sketching, starting with .7 you can get some degree of line variation. .9 is ideal in this case. 2.0 is the best, and with a lead pointer, a 2.0 can do anything the ones below it can.
Anonymous No.7587689 [Report]
All the JoAnns are basically in their final days, they're slated to be all gone by either the end of today or the end of the month. At this point they are basically down to the fixtures. Some of those are nice storage - commercial grade pegboards and paper racks and stuff. They have em for cheap as shit.

If you are a burger and got time its probably worth a peek one last time at your local one for those + any remnants of supplies still there. Mine still had some sets of Pantone markers for stupidly cheap - 5 bucks for a pack of 3 greys. I'm not investing in those but I'm sure someone would.

Because of it closing, my local Michaels also rearranged everything to make more space for fabric and sewing, so the clearance section was huge right now. A decent amount of acrylic and oil paint, brushes, some markers and other crap too.
Anonymous No.7588048 [Report]
This is a very trad-/beg/ statement, and maybe I just somehow missed this, but with acrylics, using a larger brush than you may think you need allows you to use unthinned paints.

Writing this embarrassing statement in case it helps others, because nowhere did I see anyone mention this. It was only recommended due to some philosophical "it helps you loosen up" mumbo jumbo or the tangible benefit of size/stroke variation. I was misled by my own reasoning that "I am making small works, without much variation. I should use small brushes then."

I was so fucking confused why I was getting roping (paint squishing out the edges) unless I thinned this shit down to the point even opaque colors were being translucent.
Anonymous No.7588054 [Report]
>>7586585
Yea. It’s thicker than you think
Anonymous No.7588068 [Report]
>>7577241
Personally I use lubricated condoms on my individual fingers as it allows me to paint more freely, like a reverse fingerless gloves setup. It's very sexual and adds a bombastic dynamism to my plein air studies.
Anonymous No.7589027 [Report] >>7589071
>order a raphael kolinsky online
>comes with a label on the handle
>shop went full retard with the glue, half the handle is sticky
>soap does nothing
>alcohol starts taking the handle finish off, but glue is somehow still there and still sticky
What the fuck am I supposed to do to un-glue the handle? If it weren't just a 0 I'd be fucking livid
Anonymous No.7589071 [Report]
>>7589027
Try olive oil. Some glues are removed with oil. Learned that from a pajeet pressure cooker I bought.
Anonymous No.7590091 [Report] >>7590981
>>7587467
I typically draw pen and ink, so I want thinner more precise lines that I can ink over
Anonymous No.7590829 [Report]
what's everyone's artist EDC look like?

i have some thin pocket sketchbooks i want to take to work for break or sitting in the car but no matter what i try it just feels cumbersome to carry in my pockets, especially with the pen/pencils
Anonymous No.7590981 [Report]
>>7590091
So you trace? Thinner lines should be done directly in ink
Anonymous No.7590988 [Report]
In mechanical pencils it's still 0.7 mm > 0.5mm
Anonymous No.7591160 [Report] >>7591306 >>7591321 >>7591358
>yellow no. 2 pencils
>the cheapest paper imaginable
Let me guess, you need more?
Anonymous No.7591306 [Report] >>7591323 >>7591340
>>7591160
let me guess, you're a /beg/
Anonymous No.7591321 [Report] >>7593001
>>7591160
Great for practice and thumbnails, and there's plenty of people who do things with cheap stuff. Even in the cheap tier there are different levels of quality though, and it isn't quite as obvious since price point rarely indicates this.
Anonymous No.7591323 [Report] >>7591336
>>7591306
Let me guess, you dont draw.
Anonymous No.7591336 [Report] >>7591340
>>7591323
>getting mad about exposing yourself as still grinding fundies
lol
Anonymous No.7591340 [Report] >>7591343
>>7591336
>>7591306
pyw
Anonymous No.7591343 [Report] >>7591348
>>7591340
>seething this much
post your #2 scribbles lel
Anonymous No.7591348 [Report] >>7591351
>>7591343
But you're afraid to post your work
Anonymous No.7591351 [Report] >>7591359
>>7591348
nah, post yours and I'll post mine, you're the one saying you don't need anything but copy paper and a #2, so put your work where your mouth is or fuck off
Anonymous No.7591358 [Report]
>>7591160
Yes, I need more. Show me what you make with that.
Anonymous No.7591359 [Report] >>7591361
>>7591351
Calm down saar, all you need is a pen and paper saar.
Anonymous No.7591361 [Report] >>7591366
>>7591359
that's not how jeet posting works, newfag, you're saying you're the jeet
confirmed beglet
Anonymous No.7591366 [Report] >>7591375
>>7591361
Saar post the vagene and bob work saar
Anonymous No.7591375 [Report]
>>7591366
doubt u are even white
Anonymous No.7593001 [Report]
>>7591321
There's cheap and good, then there's cheap trash.
Mitsubishi 985X are cheap school pencils and better than most "student grade" drawing pencils.
Try drawing with government issued pencils branded "Cityname Public School" and you'll want to stab your eyes with it instead.
Anonymous No.7593063 [Report] >>7593092 >>7593111
What are some bleedproof sketchbooks in either a square or A5 format?
I mostly use copic and I wanted to get some arrtx acrylic pens, but most sketchbooks I have either bleed the colors on the underneath pages or you can see the colors on the backpage, making it unusable. I've also tried Ohuhu marker pads but the colors kinda get too grainy
Anonymous No.7593092 [Report]
>>7593063
Alcohol markers always show through, it's kind of their deal being absorbed deep and binding to the paper unless you use marker paper that's pretty much plastic sheets and trash for any kind of mixed media work.
The best wet medium small sketchbooks are sakura or fabriano, They can take marker, ink and even non-sloppy watercolor without bleeding into other pages but I've only seen them in A6 and they're on the lower end of expensive.
Anonymous No.7593111 [Report] >>7593136 >>7593490
>>7593063
Copic makes their own pads but they're expensive. Canson The Wall is nice but it doesn't come that small. You could buy the A4 and cut it in half to have have some that are bound and some loose though.
Anonymous No.7593136 [Report] >>7593142
>>7593111
why not just use one decent one on amazon for 10 quid
Anonymous No.7593142 [Report] >>7593147
>>7593136
>quid
A brit posting on a rude website? How daring.
Anonymous No.7593147 [Report]
>>7593142
this is the only place I can find cartoon anime drawings of King Charles masturbating
Anonymous No.7593490 [Report] >>7595156
>>7593111
I have some of their "test pads" that came with their booster box and they kinda bleed through anyways
Anonymous No.7595156 [Report] >>7595209
>>7593490
tbf alcohol markers were never meant to be used in sketchbooks.
They're meant to create ephemeral illustrations on glossy cardboard that lets you get lovely blends with delicate colors. Then scan and print.
They've outlived their goal as a medium but artists still love them because they're the least annoying way to get high color depth and quality rendering.
Just test papers until you find one that fulfills your needs and cut it into A4s to save in a binder.
Anonymous No.7595209 [Report] >>7595249
>>7595156
nta but i love unblended markers, preference for absorbency vs blendability varies. The extremes would be how some people use the smooth side of watercolor paper for max absorbtion, and some people work on yupo or dura-lar for max slipslide.
Anonymous No.7595249 [Report]
>>7595209
Yeah I use bristol vellum with my markers because I don't want to blend them at all I just use them to lay consistent flat underpainting for my colored pencils.

Many different artists have many different needs. Gotta experiment to find the way you really enjoy making art, and what materials make that process most enjoyable.
Anonymous No.7596590 [Report] >>7597736
>buy new paint
>clumpy smells like mildew
Anonymous No.7597735 [Report] >>7597892
Looks like 100% linen paper no longer exists, then can I buy linen finished paper?
Anonymous No.7597736 [Report] >>7597793
>>7596590
dont buy himi
Anonymous No.7597793 [Report]
>>7597736
I don't buy chink brands. It was Blick...
I was kind of suspicious since the date code on the bottle said 2022, should have trusted my gut.
Anonymous No.7597795 [Report] >>7597797 >>7597800
>>7577052 (OP)
I bought like a 100 of these pens from temu. What am I in for?
Anonymous No.7597797 [Report]
>>7597795
find out and report back
Anonymous No.7597800 [Report] >>7597804
>>7597795
scatter them over a surface and pour epoxy over them
Anonymous No.7597804 [Report]
>>7597800
damien hirst, pls go
Anonymous No.7597892 [Report] >>7597917
>>7597735
There's a million different linen texture papers at any large crafts or stationery store.
Anonymous No.7597917 [Report] >>7597921
>>7597892
Not linen finish, 100% linen or flax.
Anonymous No.7597921 [Report]
>>7597917
Just search
>100% flax paper
There's tons of it available but it's all smaller manufacturers and expensive. What the hell do you need it for?
Anonymous No.7598288 [Report]
>>7577243
Their pencils are the best too, I wish they made 2mm lead again.
Anonymous No.7599677 [Report] >>7599712 >>7599748 >>7599833 >>7600239
>>7577052 (OP)
How ofen this thread page 10s is the clearest sign that /ic/ doesn't draw.
Anonymous No.7599712 [Report] >>7599801
>>7599677
it's more that they don't have money to spend on supplies.
Anonymous No.7599748 [Report]
>>7599677
maybe 10% of /ic/ does trad at all, not counting grinding boxes on shitty paper with stationery, and even that's generous
Anonymous No.7599771 [Report] >>7599807
Bought some nice sable brushes (mainly for inking). How do I avoid ruining them with waterproof ink?
Anonymous No.7599801 [Report] >>7599805 >>7599823 >>7599950
>>7599712
Drawing and painting supplies are not expensive. If you think they are you haven't tried other creative pursuits, where buying the cheapest items like drill bits are literal scams and not just finicky.
Anonymous No.7599805 [Report] >>7599852
>>7599801
Quality supplies are. Just because other hobbies are more expensive doesn't mean drawing/painting is cheap.
Anonymous No.7599807 [Report]
>>7599771
you don't
Anonymous No.7599823 [Report] >>7599861
>>7599801
I can buy a euro hammer drill set for the same amount I'd pay for paper and paint that will last me a month or two. Hell, I've paid more than that for a single brush.
The only way you'd think painting supplies aren't expensive is if you don't paint much.
Anonymous No.7599833 [Report]
>>7599677
Gearfags get filtered by drawing and painting because you can’t buy anything that will make you better unless you know how to use it. It’s not like other hobbies where having the most expensive gear automatically puts you at the top of the totem pole
Anonymous No.7599852 [Report] >>7599861 >>7599862 >>7600514
>>7599805
No they're really not. The only feasible reason they could be expensive is if you either don't take care of your shit and have to replace it often, are wasting materials through putting excess out and letting it cure or go bad, are making big pieces often, or are for some reason using your nice materials for warmups and observational practice. If you constantly run out of one thing you use often, then that means you should probably buy it in a greater quantity at discount to save money.

Copics are about 5-6 USD a piece. The ink bottles are slightly less, and everyone bitches but even with the shrinkflation a few years ago they cost about the same as other premium alcohol inks per ml (compare to tim holtz shit for example). You don't need that many to do nice work and you can accumulate them over time. Tombow are cheaper, the only real wallet killers are Pantone markers because they're the only lightfast and "Pantone."

Good wood pencils, F-C 9000s and General Kimberly and such, are 1-2$ open stock, less in sets. Mechanical leads in both standard and lead-holder sizes are also silly cheap. And erasers aren't expensive either.

Gamblin oils are only expensive if you want to use the cadmiums and cobalts, the rest are like 10-17 USD per tube, Grumbacher have some below 10$ within the same range and don't cost an arm and a leg for those pigments. You won't go thru these that quick either.
Goache is also in this range on a per-tube basis.
Daniel Smith watercolors are 10-15 USD per tube, and WC lasts a long long time so its even cheaper than oils.

Golden heavy body acrylic are 8-14 USD per tube at series 1-6 and their fluid acrylics max out at 10 USD a bottle. Talens Expert caps out at 15 USD a tube, Liquitex professional only goes over 14 USD for a series 5.

Calligraphy inks cost about 5-10 USD a bottle.

Gel pens are about the same price as pencils.

The only real "expensive" shit is high end papers and canvases, but the midrange on those is fine.
Anonymous No.7599861 [Report] >>7599900
>>7599852
(cont.)
On an hours/value basis you get more out of art supplies than you do watching movies or getting fast food.

Also, if you are making money off it, art supplies are a business expense and thus a tax writeoff. At least in the US and some other countries.

>>7599823
If you're comparing like to like then high end tools blow the price of high end art supplies out of the water. Festool, lie-nielsel, hilti, starett, mitutoyo, kennedy toolboxes, carbide endmills, etc etc.
Anonymous No.7599862 [Report] >>7599864
>>7599852
>Daniel Smith watercolors are 10-15 USD per tube, and WC lasts a long long time so its even cheaper than oils
lolwat, no it doesn't, you need a lot of paint for a good watercolor, thin washes are a /beg/ trap
Anonymous No.7599864 [Report] >>7599882
>>7599862
Depends on what you want to do and how big you paint. Most people doing WC work smaller than oils and make ample use of the natural paper texture from what I've seen but that may be a regional/personal-observation difference.
Anonymous No.7599882 [Report]
>>7599864
most people don't use a drill for anything but putting screws in ikea furniture, what relevance do "most people" have to anything?
Anonymous No.7599900 [Report] >>7599932
>>7599861
>If you're comparing like to like then high end tools blow the price of high end art supplies out of the water
I'm comparing quality to quality, not going full retard with overpriced shit like the series 7. Take a look at Festool hammer drill sets, then consider how much money you'd need for a #10 series 7 alone, which is a workhorse brush size. Then consider you need smaller brushes too. Now, I wouldn't pay for a series 7, but if you want to go full retard, there it is.
I don't keep track but I'd say I'm burning 100 euros on paper and paint every 5-6 weeks. Sure, that's not all that much when you think about it, and it's nothing compared to goldsmithing or marble or other insane shit, but drill bits?
Anonymous No.7599932 [Report] >>7599944 >>7599950 >>7599985 >>7600517
>>7599900
In terms of tools + material to create things, yes woodworking and metalworking and so on are just far more expensive pursuits, especially because the cheaper ends of tools wear out stupidly fast, have lower power, are not very precise in the cuts and holes they make, and often not sharpened properly, poorly heat-treated, formed irregularly or with bends or eccentricity, have crazy backlash or spring, or have other problems that make them plain not work properly at all.

This isn't really something a reasonable person would argue against. Art supplies are generally not expensive.

I am convinced this "expensive" meme comes from the fact that a lot of art talk online originated from teenagers and NEETs.
Anonymous No.7599944 [Report] >>7600067
>>7599932
You're just setting up strawmen at this point, I'm talking about quality tools. A cubic of wood is what, 120-150 euros? How much wood do you go through in a typical month? Meanwhile anyone serious will paint a painting a day.
Do you paint and how often do you finish a painting?
Anonymous No.7599950 [Report] >>7600067
>>7599801
>you think they are you haven't tried other creative pursuits, where buying the cheapest items like drill bits are literal scams and not just finicky.
>>7599932
>woodworking and metalworking
define exactly what you're talking about and how much expendable material you use
you're talking about creative pursuits but acting like you're in construction
Anonymous No.7599985 [Report] >>7600067
>>7599932
Art supplies are universally agreed to be expensive, and you're actually autistic if you don't see the difference between spending materials to create usable objects, spoons, shelves or whatever and spending materials to create something with zero benefit or use to you purely in pursuit of the craft.
Anonymous No.7600067 [Report] >>7600070 >>7600078
>>7599944
I have spent time on both, that's how I know what I'm talking about. Wood and metal create a lot of waste material and if you actually care about what you're doing you're selecting specific species of wood and then on top of that finishing is a whole nother task with its own sets of tools and materials - veneers, varnishes, stains, paints, waxes, and so on.
Metal is similar, depending on what you're making you may be using mild steel you paint after, brass, bronze, or something like stainless or marine grade.
Add to this that any project can be using multiple different types of materials.

There is a reason the actual most expensive art supplies are furniture.

You can buy a 100 USD paintbrush if you really look around but you can also get chisels that are much more expensive, and then you also need the sharpening tools to maintain them. Which if you're already getting top tools, means either spending lots of time learning to hand-sharpen with expensive stones or buying a 600USD - 1000USD Tormek.
The brushes just need washing well.

>>7599950
>you're talking about creative pursuits but acting like you're in construction
Woodworking and metalworking are creative pursuits. Furniture, lamps, knives, boxes, spoons, etc etc.
These are all artistic things but you need to be precise so everything is square, round, and within tolerance (and if you fuck up, make it look intentional - happy accidents and all).

>>7599985
>if you don't see the difference between spending materials to create usable objects, spoons, shelves or whatever
These are artistic.
>spending materials to create something with zero benefit or use to you
If you see zero benefit or use from art then why are you here? Why the fuck do you make art?

Your "universally agreed to be expensive" line is also the kind of fallacious reasoning someone with 89 IQ or or someone from a conformist hellhole like Denmark or China would say.
>hurr everyone says its true so it must be!!
Absolute retard.
Anonymous No.7600070 [Report] >>7600086
>>7600067
>skirts around the questions
If you're not gonna have an honest discussion don't waste everyone's time.
What do you actually do? How much material do you use? Do you paint seriously, meaning daily?
Anonymous No.7600078 [Report] >>7600086
>>7600067
Yeah, I'm retarded, tell me what you use the hundreds of drawings and paintings you've made for.
Anonymous No.7600086 [Report] >>7600088
>>7600070
>clearly stated I do
I draw and paint, but no I do not specifically paint daily because some days I will be drawing instead. I use a variety of materials and I do mostly smaller work, but I observe people who work larger too.

The amount of fucking paint one uses on a single work, especially if you're using expensive shit with a high pigment load, is really not a lot. And if you're using such highly pigmented paint you're more likely than not going to be thinning it and greying it down so you aren't assaulting the observer's eyes with maximum chroma. The only case I could think of this not being the case is if you're an impasto painter who's using such a volume of paint that you're making the equivalent of colored peanut butter sculptures.

>>7600078
If your art is not something that brings you good feelings and making peoples' days better for having seen it then what the fuck are you doing?
Anonymous No.7600088 [Report] >>7600113
>>7600086
>still won't answer
Fuck off, retard.
Anonymous No.7600101 [Report] >>7600113 >>7600181
I'm looking to get into carpentry and the entry cost doesn't seem high at all compared to painting, especially since a lot of the tools are stuff you need around the house anyway
In fact the tools should pay themselves off in two projects max compared to just buying the stuff I want to build
Anonymous No.7600113 [Report] >>7600118 >>7600131
>>7600088
I answered your question, you're just too low IQ to understand.
Do you think I carefully measure how much paint I use before and after?

>>7600101
Just be careful about falling down the rabbit hole. You can get by with "prosumer" stuff like Ryobi and make some simple but nice things but don't ever go for the bottom barrel amazon-special chinkshit, it's really not worth the headaches.

The entry cost for painting is rather cheap though. A set of mid-range primaries, a few princeton or robert simmons brushes, gesso, artists's tape and some thick paper (or hardboard if you're feeling fancy). Under a hundred bux.
A cordless drill alone is more, you will need a workbench of some sort, and don't forget the PPE/dust collection unless you want lung cancer.
Anonymous No.7600118 [Report] >>7600162 >>7600162
>>7600113
I asked about woodworking and metalworking - what exactly do you do and how much material do you use? And yes, you should know how much paint you use in a given timeframe because you're replacing the paint you used up, larping nigger, you'd know how much you spend on materials if you actually used any.
Fucking armchair artist.
Anonymous No.7600131 [Report] >>7600162
>>7600113
>Do you think I carefully measure how much paint I use before and after?
I don't, yet I told you how far 100 euros in paper and paint goes for me because I know how often I restock and how much I spend when I do.
Anonymous No.7600162 [Report]
>>7600118
Oh with woodworking I fucking failed at it after attempting for like... shit, 4 years? You can easily spend 150-200 USD on solid wood for a single piece of furniture - an end table something 36" high, for example. It used to be a bit cheaper before the coof.

For metal work if you're doing a lot of machining you typically use smaller amounts of nicer materials, for bigger stuff like furniture you're using more square tubing and sheet metal so it ends up being around the same cost in materials as wood, depending on how you engineer it and what style of shit you're making.

>>7600118
>>7600131
>You should know how much paint you use in a given timeframe because you're replacing the paint you used up
>I know how often I restock and how much I spend when I do.
I already said I do multiple kinds of art so I actually go through the paint pretty slow. On top of that I don't really paint the same kinds of things all the time. I have two cabinets full of paint due to experimenting with different brands, types, and buying things when they were in the clearance bin.

Other stuff I just buy in bulk or when it's on sale or there's a coupon, unless I already have a bunch of it. I suppose I treat buying art supplies like groceries, but getting anything here is a bit of a pain in the ass because the stores here all carry different stuff and more than once have they been out of stock of just the item I need, or I go again and they cleaned that shelf out to make space for other items.
Anonymous No.7600164 [Report] >>7600181 >>7600189
You can learn how to draw, which is the foundation of painting, with a pencil and normal paper even when you decide to use high-end materials eventually. The barrier of entry for learning wood working is higher due to variety of tools required. Power tools are expensive but much of the best works are done using traditional tools and materials.
Painting materials can be obscure and expensive, but most painters have a lower standard of craftsmanship when compared to other craftsmen. Very few are painting on traditionally joined panels of stable wood that is sized with animal glue, with gesso layer and then a dutch-process lead oil layer. Other craftsmen take pleasure in trying their skill on good materials, most artists only care if the canvas or paper feels right to them.
Wood price depend on local availability and resourcefulness. You can make some stuff out of scrap.
Anonymous No.7600181 [Report] >>7600189 >>7600282
>>7600164
I'm >>7600101 and a buddy got into traditional carpentry (wanted to make a kayak by hand), and he says it's dirt cheap to get top tier tools from Japan, I'm assuming it's a copic type situation
Anonymous No.7600189 [Report]
>>7600164
All very true.
I will just add that traditional tools are costly in that they make the work take more time and you can easily use up a lot of material practicing with them, plus they have a hidden cost in the workbench, which can easily become a chicken-and-egg situation.
>>7600181
You can get nice used japanese tools on ebay (unless the market inflated since I last looked). However they're a bit different and made to be used in different ways. You should look up the properties of the woods oldschool japanese woodworkers typically worked with else you may have some... issues.

It's a bit like how gansai paint isn't really meant to be used in the same way western watercolor is. There's just different techniques around them.
Anonymous No.7600239 [Report] >>7600524 >>7623008
>>7599677
how often do you buy new supplies?

and lets be honest, there arent that many new things to choose from. everybody sooner or later finds their favorite ink or pen or pencil or brown paper and stick to it. not to mention a pack of pencils will last you a LONG time.
Anonymous No.7600282 [Report]
>>7600181
If you are resourceful you can buy tools for cheap, but again it's not as cheap as paper and pencil. I was also able to buy brushes for cheap.
To add, the real barrier to good quality materials in painting isn't even always the price. It's knowledge. Most woodworkers will know that oak is good, walnut, cherry, even maple, and it seems every amateur woodworker have a phase of obsessing over exotics or chatoyant burls. Hand made paint remains a much better paint than most available on the market, and is cheaper as well, but to utilize them well requires a deep understanding of material properties. Lack of knowledge also leads to waste. I see many painters waste hundreds on mediums because they don't know what to even look for.
Anonymous No.7600514 [Report] >>7600584 >>7614055 >>7614129
>>7599852
>the only real wallet killers are Pantone markers because they're the only lightfast and "Pantone."
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AAN7o0vQjUc
About that...
Anonymous No.7600517 [Report] >>7600584
>>7599932
If you go through bits faster than an artist goes through pads you're either retarded or Alec Steele.
Anonymous No.7600524 [Report] >>7601072
>>7600239
I do buy new stuff every other month when sales go up.
I'm mixed media so sometimes I pick new watercolor brands to test out, sometimes I check out meme colored pencils, sometimes I try new markers.
Anonymous No.7600584 [Report]
>>7600514
Yea pantone were the only ones that stood up well (for markers at least... which is silly because markers are not really meant for it).

>>7600517
There's an old boomer anecdote where some dude went to a chinese factory and recanted that some of the bits were real steel while the others were pot metal, and the chinese guy casually just said it was because "americans only use these sizes", the others were basically filler.
I've had bradpoint bits snap their wings off in pine when using an old egg beater drill, it's ridiculous how nasty some markets are with the *-shaped-object tier of stuff.

When I got into art I assumed it would be similar, but no there's actually some really nice shit you can get for cheap. If you look at the video the other anon linked, fucking crayola supertips are good. And I can confirm they are, I got a pack and they work nicely.
Anonymous No.7600904 [Report] >>7600937 >>7601024 >>7601066
Are there any refillable fineliners? Something that takes fountain pen ink
Anonymous No.7600937 [Report] >>7600976
>>7600904
You are probably thinking of technical pens like isographs. Fountain pen nk is too watery for them, they use a special mix of pigment inks.
Anonymous No.7600976 [Report] >>7601682
>>7600937
>like isographs
Don't those have to be at a 90 degree angle to the paper or they don't work?
Anonymous No.7601024 [Report]
>>7600904
I use these. They take pretty much any kind of ink
Anonymous No.7601066 [Report] >>7601585 >>7601683
>>7600904
every single sharpie and fineliner is refilable: inside is a plastic tube filled with foam and that foam is soaked with ink. the tube is connected to the tip and ink flows to the paper via capilary action. the only struggle is how to open the pen without destroying it: some brands have easy to pull out endings, where all you need is pliers. some brands seal off the end with plastic so well that you cannot getbinside without sawing the other off.

pic related: test it out yourself on your depleted fileliners and take it apart. simply dip the tube with a foam into any bottle of ink, let it soak the ink and then assemble sharpie back. it will write just as new. as to which kind of ink to use, i would recc sticking to the ordinary water based. but alcohol ink (permanent marker) or even the pigmented ink should work as well. you need to be brave and experiment a bit. if the ink wont flow well, add some water to the tube in sink to make it more drippy.

some brand are even made with being refillable in mind: they have screwable body, so you dont even need pliers to pull them off and come with extra tips to replace.
Anonymous No.7601072 [Report]
>>7600524
so that is one post per two months per one trad drawer.

lets say there are 100 trad drawers on /ic, so they make on average 50 posts per month. no wonder general about trad supplies tends to fall off the catalogue, while beg general makes new thread every few days... if trad drawers want some sort of general, i would say you need to combine trad supplies AND trad drawings, so you can afford to face the BEG onslaught and not fall off the catalogue.

pic related is my stash i acumulated just from going to school and then searching my parents house for their ancient school supplies. it is not a life time supply, but it will last me at least a decade, until i finally run out of one color lol.
Anonymous No.7601585 [Report] >>7601650
>>7601066
Have in mind you shouldn't wait till the pen stops writing to refill it. Inks have binders and when binders aren't kept moist they cure. Which will leave you with a rock instead of foam. And that rock won't hold on to any ink.
Anonymous No.7601650 [Report]
>>7601585
Yup. This also applies to intentionally-refillable markers like copics.
>how to tell?
You get fractional-gram scale like they use for weed or gold. You weigh a fresh one and write down its weight - preferrably post this online some place public so people can look it up.
Then weigh one you use often. Every X days or weeks (depending on how often you use it) weigh it again and once it loses about 2-3 grams from the original weight you top it off with more ink.
Anonymous No.7601682 [Report]
>>7600976
Not really. I've used many and I haven't had that issue. I've read that the ISO certified ones (the .35 one for instance) can be used at any angle.
Anonymous No.7601683 [Report] >>7601870
>>7601066
At the end of the day, you'll still have to deal with a shitty felt nib though
Anonymous No.7601870 [Report] >>7602064
>>7601683
Why the hate for felt nibs
Anonymous No.7602064 [Report] >>7602435 >>7602631
>>7601870
They act basically as a sponge, which is not ideal for line quality. They also wear down in the end which can fuck up your lines and give you weird variations when you don't want/need them. They don't really have any sort of ink flow as opposed to what you can get with nibs or even tech pens. To this day I haven't found any fineliners with ink that's actually, properly black. Only Faber Castells come close to that sort of tone.
Anonymous No.7602435 [Report]
>>7602064
sounds like autism
Anonymous No.7602631 [Report] >>7604906
>>7602064
>actually, properly black
>is probably using shitty carbon-based pigments

For me, it's Mars Black.

If the magnet doesn't stick, it aint worth shit!
Anonymous No.7604792 [Report] >>7604906 >>7617613
bought this. what type of materials could i use on top? it's 180 g/m2. i have fineliners, oil pastels. watercolors, alcohol based brushpens, cheap color pencils, acrylics
Anonymous No.7604906 [Report] >>7605315 >>7618844
>>7602631
To be honest I've gotten better results with normal tech pens inks using those. Ink in felt tip pens is dilluted as fuck. They started selling isographs where I live, about time too now that Rotring discontinued rapidographs, so I will get a couple of them.

>>7604792
It's good for comic making. Fineliners and pens in general are a ok, don't know how they'll take wetter media though.
Anonymous No.7605315 [Report] >>7605419
>>7604906
I was shitposting but I doubt you can get mars black in an ink suitable for technical pens. And by that I mean pigment PBk11. Magnetite. Iron(II,III) oxide. Fe3O4. The black GOAT.
Anonymous No.7605419 [Report]
>>7605315
pbk11 isn't actually darker than pbk7
Anonymous No.7606190 [Report] >>7606206
The darkest black ink is copic toner black but you only get that on copic markers.
Anonymous No.7606206 [Report] >>7606234
>>7606190
?
Anonymous No.7606234 [Report] >>7606474
>>7606206
What I mean is if you put that in a brush pen, fountain pen or rapidograph instead of a marker you're gonna get a black brick by the next day.
Even just pouring it in an inkwell will leave you with useless jelly quick.
Anonymous No.7606304 [Report] >>7607573
>>7577052 (OP)
I always was a firm believer that art supplies don't matter. I've been colouring my sketches with a 3€ watercolour set for a few years now. I bought one Faber Castell 1mm mechpen a few years back and it has been doing an alright job. But I bought this last week and it's been a pleasure. It says HB on the pack, same as the Faber Castell pen I have, but the leads feel so different for some reason.
Anonymous No.7606474 [Report]
>>7606234
Not saying you're wrong, but the website implies it's usable
>To encourage even more refilling we have now released our next generation Copic Ink. The new design allows for quick and clean work, precision and control, e.g. for alcohol ink art. The long nozzle makes it easy to apply the colours. Copic Ink is water-free and quick-drying and can be used for airbrush work or classic sketching and drawing with pen and brushes.
Anonymous No.7606688 [Report] >>7607445
>order palette from korea that I can't find literally anywhere
>gets sent untracked
>two months later, it's not here
>tell the seller it hasn't arrived, click the "I still want the item option"
>get refunded immediately because "it was lost in delivery"
I JUST WANT THE GODDAMN PALETTE
Is this a scam I'm too stupid to understand?
Why would you not just send me the fucking thing? He's still listing it with units available.
I used ebay two times in the past 6 years and got refunded without the item arriving both times, my own account looks like a procrastinating scammer now.
Anonymous No.7607445 [Report]
>>7606688
my guess is they probably didn't actually have it in stock. since you can't find it anywhere else, this seems pretty likely. an untracked order is weird, scammers use other random tracking codes going to the same city.
they said they sent it out, but didn't actually send anything while they wait for it to come into stock.
it didn't come in, so they just refunded you when you said you still want it.
lots of their stuff is fully automated so they'll often list things that they don't actually have rather than let another company get the sale.
Anonymous No.7607573 [Report] >>7607647
>>7606304
are these wobble free
Anonymous No.7607647 [Report] >>7607653
>>7607573
Yes, they're very stable. Don't know about the 0.5mm ones, I tried to get the thickest I could.
Anonymous No.7607653 [Report] >>7608920
>>7607647
what model is it, I can only see 0.3 and 0.5s on their website
Anonymous No.7608241 [Report] >>7611022
Is there a difference between cheaper and pricier gum arabic? Talens gum arabic is like 1/2 to 1/3 of more expensive brands, is it just paying for the brand or is it better to get W&N or whatever?
Anonymous No.7608920 [Report]
>>7607653
Mono Graph
https://www.tomboweurope.com/produkte/produkt/SH-MG23-R7
Anonymous No.7611022 [Report]
>>7608241
idk I just use mine to make marshmallows.
Anonymous No.7614036 [Report] >>7614055
Are watercolor pencils actually suitable to be used for watercolor if you're otherwise using artist grade materials, care about lightfastness, etc?
They never seem to be made by watercolor manufacturers or provide pigment info, be properly rated, and so on.
Anonymous No.7614055 [Report] >>7614071
>>7614036
see >>7600514
Anonymous No.7614071 [Report]
>>7614055
I'll watch it now, but everyone lies about lightfastness, that's why we have independent rating, my concern is more along the lines of what the fuck is even in them? There's no pigment or content information. Daniel Smith watercolor sticks are legit, so I'm assuming you can make proper pencils too
Anonymous No.7614129 [Report] >>7614324 >>7614637 >>7615564 >>7616529
>>7600514
>alcohol markers
I thought my markers faded so fast because they were cheap junk, but they're all shit, why do people even buy these outside the context of the illustration industry decades ago?
Anonymous No.7614324 [Report] >>7614343
>>7614129
They look cool. You're meant to scan them or keep them in a book/box. They're not for display in sunny places.

Tradigital art is a thing.
Anonymous No.7614343 [Report] >>7614348
>>7614324
sorry, I don't speak lgbt
Anonymous No.7614348 [Report] >>7614354
>>7614343
Traditional art scanned for display on a computer, sometimes with digital additions or alterations.
Anonymous No.7614354 [Report]
>>7614348
very cool and transcoded
Anonymous No.7614637 [Report]
>>7614129
it's because they all have artificial dye for their pigments and the alcohol doesn't help, neither.
Anonymous No.7615564 [Report]
>>7614129
Because they have the absolute best selection of pale and vibrant light colors.
But yeah you need to keep them iside a portfolio in a dark place because they were never meant to be on display. Alcohol marker art was meant to be scanned and printed.
Anonymous No.7616529 [Report]
>>7614129
Because it's the easiest and less time consuming way to achieve that flat colored cel-looking "anime" style coloring.
Anonymous No.7616628 [Report] >>7616909
Did some oil washes with expensive high pigment paints. Ran my finger across a darker section and smeared what felt like brittle sand. It would be odd if something that isn't dry felt like that (hard, coarse). Was I just smearing loose pigment somehow? Will it ever become fully dry/fixed to the canvas? It felt like fine sand grains.
Anonymous No.7616909 [Report] >>7617013
>>7616628
>Will it ever become fully dry/fixed to the canvas?
8-24 months depending on the humidity at your place.
Anonymous No.7617013 [Report] >>7617038
>>7616909
I don't impasto like a mad cunt. Seems like it did take a sold week to dry though even though it was a gamsol wash. This was a dioxazine purple. I had similar dry times with alzarine crimson. Real just gotta stick to umber washes for that quick dry underpainting. I'm not even sure how much of this rich color is going to show through whatever I put on top of it.
Anonymous No.7617038 [Report] >>7617079
>>7617013
>2025
>alizarin crimson
Anonymous No.7617079 [Report] >>7617114
>>7617038
I'm in the experimental stage I don't know how any of this shit is gonna turn out. You've got a red recommendation?
Anonymous No.7617114 [Report]
>>7617079
NTA Permanent Rose (Quin Rose, Permanent Red Rose, etc. Different names) is just better.
Anonymous No.7617613 [Report] >>7618844
>>7604792
Its bristol so its naturally good for colored pencil, graphite, and charcoal; or dry media layering in general like powder. Wouldnt risk for mixed and wet media like acrylic, watercolors, oil, pastels though. Fineliners is good, but imo it would be a waste to draw lineart on top of that paper unless you're one of those lineart enthusiast that could fill an entire page with a lineart and hatching something like that
Anonymous No.7618844 [Report] >>7618866
>>7604906
>Rotring discontinued rapidographs
WHAaaa? I mean, theu were never Koh-I-Noor quality (just simpler construction) but that's surprising.

>>7617613
What gsm should you use for pastels?
Anonymous No.7618866 [Report]
>>7618844
Something between 160-360. Ideally its 360gsm so that you can avoid the curling after you finish the painting (pastel is heavy because it is, okay?), but if youre beginner start with 160gsm, dont go any lower than that
Anonymous No.7620117 [Report] >>7624039 >>7625831
>>7577052 (OP)
I bought pic related recently, Been really enjoying them except I should've gotten at least the 36 set because I feel limited when it comes to skin tones. Any recs for tutorials about this? I used to use just prismacolor so blending with oil pencils still feels pretty foreign.
Anonymous No.7622890 [Report] >>7622995
What's the best white gel pen and/or pencil? I want something for highlights over graphite and toned paper.
Anonymous No.7622995 [Report]
>>7622890
Pentel presto or sakura gelly roll or holbein super opaque white acrylic ink with dip pen.
Anonymous No.7623008 [Report] >>7623379
>>7600239
what pen case is this?
Anonymous No.7623379 [Report]
>>7623008
the school type. every year they make new "models" with new printouts, but the technology hasnt changed since 80ties.

some are 1 layer, some are 2 layer, some are thick 3 or 4 layers. in my language we call it školní penál and separate them by 1st school segment (kiddos) and 2nd school segment (teenagers) which tends to be a bit nicer.
Anonymous No.7624039 [Report]
>>7620117
>play with analogue colors for light and shadow
>unlike other medium where you have to start from light -> dark, colored pencil started with dark -> light, meaning you have to color the shadow first (negative)
>if something goes wrong you can always erase pencil color
>if you want to draw white subject (white hair, white bed sheets, white skirt) always utilize cool/warm gray
>use white pencil color only for blending
>never use black and gold unless you know what you were doing
Anonymous No.7624176 [Report] >>7624215 >>7624292
You guys ever just start using shittier supplies on purpose? I just did a drawing with a literal home l Home Depot pencil using the attached eraser and not sharpening it once the whole time when I have well over $100 in fancy imported mechanical pencils, erasers, and lead. I think there's something wrong with my brain.
Anonymous No.7624215 [Report]
>>7624176
constantly, yeah
I keep going from there being no difference to there being massive difference
Anonymous No.7624292 [Report] >>7624322
>>7624176
A lot of cheap supplies are actually really good, depends on what feel you like. I'm probably odd in that I tend to hate things that are described as "buttery", and those also lean on being expensive. Any supplies, pencils, paints, anything. Just feels gross and greasy to me. But I do also hate "chalky" shit like pastel pencils, nails on a chalkboard.
Anonymous No.7624322 [Report]
>>7624292
not really a price thing as far as I've noticed, but I hate big pigment particles I can feel under my brush, it's like painting with sand
Anonymous No.7624415 [Report] >>7624663
When did you realize you were a third world nigger all along and will never experience living in a developed country?
Anonymous No.7624663 [Report]
>>7624415
I know you're being silly, but look on YouTube at all the really good ballpoint pen artists. They're all black.
Anonymous No.7624697 [Report] >>7642256
Today's art supplies haul
Anonymous No.7625162 [Report] >>7625233 >>7625781
Has anyone tested different watercolor brands for pigment content/density?
I know for example Daniel Smith claims to be super pigmented and specifically said they're more pigmented than WN, but is there any hard data available?
I'm especially interested in the less talked about brand like Old Holland, Da Vinci, Sennelier and Schmincke and cheaper brands like White Nights
Anonymous No.7625233 [Report] >>7625235
>>7625162
I keep thinking about investing in expensive watercolors but my set from was a kid still serves me well to this day
Anonymous No.7625235 [Report] >>7625689
>>7625233
If your set from childhood still serves you well, you don't paint, so why would you need expensive watercolors?
Anonymous No.7625689 [Report] >>7625707
>>7625235
It's getting close though. I've had to start with watercolors three times to finally get it and enjoy it. This shitty watercolor set has made me close to a 1000 bucks from selling the paintings I made with it. It might be time to upgrade to better colors.
Anonymous No.7625707 [Report] >>7625713
>>7625689
not to downplay your work or anything, but you've used something like 20-30ml of paint, tops, in presumably years, I'm not sure I'd call that painting
ironically, with that kind of usage, you're better off buying the highest quality paint you can get, a handful of big tubes would last you years
Anonymous No.7625713 [Report] >>7625770
>>7625707
I don't plan to go back to watercolors in the near future. I'm just curious though. Maybe if I have enough money lying around to justify experimenting with expensive shit then I'll do it.
Not sure I'd like tubes though. Those tiny plastic cubes with solid color are more like something I'd use. Or do you squeeze the tubes into a container and then let them dry? I never looked into this.
Anonymous No.7625770 [Report] >>7625789 >>7625977
>>7625713
depends on the brand, usually it's the same paint, but w&n has a different formulation for the pans
pans (as in the containers) are impractical, half-pans are basically unusable for anything more than thin washes
they also cost like 3 times more than they should because contrary to what people parrot, most of the cost (barring the top series) isn't pigment, it's handling, packaging, labeling, storing, transporting etc plus pouring and drying for the pans, which is practically the same per unit regardless of size, that's why larger volumes barely increase in price and why pans are stupidly expensive
slanted wells are the best, you can just pour the paint and let it dry, it rewets faster and you can load the brush better
Anonymous No.7625781 [Report]
>>7625162
handprint has all sorts of info when it comes to watercolor. there's a whole page devoted to masstone, tinting strength and even particle gravity. there's also a page dedicated to the discussion of brands so I'd check there first:
https://www.handprint.com/HP/WCL/pigmt3.html#tinting
https://www.handprint.com/HP/WCL/waterfs.html
https://www.handprint.com/HP/WCL/pigmt2.html
Anonymous No.7625789 [Report] >>7625814
>>7625770
>slanted wells are the best, you can just pour the paint and let it dry, it rewets faster and you can load the brush better
Do you have an example what such a setup looks like?
Anonymous No.7625814 [Report] >>7625817
>>7625789
nigga, you pour paint into a slanted well, are you stupid
Anonymous No.7625817 [Report]
>>7625814
I'm ESL (so that's a yes)
Anonymous No.7625831 [Report]
>>7620117
Search youtube for color pencil layering tutorials.
It's pretty simple but not as intuitive when we're used to creamy pancils that lay flat color in a single go.
Anonymous No.7625977 [Report] >>7626367
>>7625770
nta but i have heard that some brands actually use a different formulation for tube vs pan. Maybe that was just the individuals saying it being retarded, but assuming they aren't, do you have any info on this or why it might seem so?
Anonymous No.7626367 [Report] >>7626474
>>7625977
could be anything, like I said, w&n does have different formulations, so maybe they just extrapolate that since it's the most common brand or maybe they just parrot some boomer meme that has nothing to do with reality
people are just retarded, I've heard boomers say pans have different binders altogether
watercolor is generally the least understood medium by its practitioners due to high appeal and low entry barrier, and 99% of the material is written by middle aged hobbyist women doing botanical illustrations once a week
most manufacturers state the formulation's the same
Anonymous No.7626474 [Report]
>>7626367
Interesting. My thinking was that it could be from people using tube paint freshly squeezed, where it already has a lot more moisture in it than pans. Or maybe the pans are altered via some kind of drying additive put in them for faster manufacture? Even if it flashes off before shipping.
Anonymous No.7626813 [Report] >>7626881 >>7626949
Lately I've been feeling dip pens are just shit all around, regardless of origin. I really don't want to use fineliners, but it seems the'yre the only choice I have left for reliable inking...
Anonymous No.7626881 [Report]
>>7626813
suck it up and practice, it ain't the pen that's unreliable
Anonymous No.7626949 [Report]
>>7626813
Dip pens are the best but it takes a while to find something you're comfortable with. Here's what I've been using.
Anonymous No.7626983 [Report] >>7626988
spear nibs > your favorite nibs
Anonymous No.7626988 [Report] >>7626990
>>7626983
>spear nib
Show me what you can do with them
Anonymous No.7626990 [Report] >>7626992
>>7626988
poke my enemies without fear for the nib
Anonymous No.7626992 [Report]
>>7626990
That is, I have to admit, I great argument for spear nibs.
Anonymous No.7627005 [Report] >>7627255
Anyone have any good tips for recycling trash into art supplies? eg. extracting pigment or something.

All I've done with the idea so far is I don't throw away paper with usable surfaces, I print something on them and glue it into my mixed media street art inspired collages

Would be cool if there was a way to recycle plastic also for mixed media projects without it looking like you glued plastic on there
Anonymous No.7627255 [Report]
>>7627005
I've messed with plastics before...
Thermoplastics can be melted using an iron on low or a soldering iron or a toaster oven. You can also heat it, gently, til it starts to soften and then "forge" it by hammering it, but it rapidly loses heat, faster than metal does. I imagine working in a toasty room and having a warmed (not too hot) anvil of some sort would help. This works best with HDPE since it doesn't offgas toxic byproducts. I think PET might be similar but look it up, it's been a while. Styrenes are BAD if overheated, can kill birds - don't do that.

If you want to use the plastic as a base for texture, you can scratch grooves into it with a knife and then gesso over it. The grooves help keep the gesso in place. Both DecoArt and Plaid have translucent Glass Paint that should work on plastic as well. Liquitex sells a glass medium for adhering to it but I don't know how opaque it is. For directly-apply opaque colors you could try flashe or polycolor (both vinyl paints that should stick to most things) or one of the many "multi-surface" or "for plastic" paints from the craft paint brands.
Anonymous No.7627381 [Report] >>7627435 >>7628436
red pill me on poster colors, how are they any different from gouache
Anonymous No.7627435 [Report] >>7627465
>>7627381
They are much cheaper per ml and not designed to be lightfast.

Nicker and Shinhan use Gum Arabic as a binder. Cheaper varieties may use dextrin.

The best poster color tutorial is in fucking THAI but the translated captions somewhat work:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bnfPtEWWxks
It's 1/6, full playlist here: https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLQ1tctKNWdwo3aoUwJPQe36ZQlMsbgX1Y

He has 2 other playlists of it but I haven't watched them. There's some additional info on using them, derived from those videos and experimentation, on this dude's blog:
https://monisawa.blogspot.com/2014/02/shinhan-poster-paint-part-1-of-3-journey.html
https://monisawa.blogspot.com/2014/02/shinhan-poster-paint-part-2-of-3-my.html
https://monisawa.blogspot.com/2014/02/shinhan-poster-paint-part-3-of-3-using.html
Anonymous No.7627465 [Report] >>7630792
>>7627435
I see, thank you
Anonymous No.7628436 [Report] >>7628526 >>7628569
>>7627381
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qH2q9ZJMaAU
its what they used to use for backgrounds

they treat it like watercolour that is opaque like gouache
Anonymous No.7628526 [Report] >>7628591
>>7628436
>they treat it like watercolour
Nothing in that video has anything to do with watercolor, it's gouache technique
>that is opaque like gouache
Because it's literally just gouache with cheap pigments meant for reproduction
Anonymous No.7628569 [Report] >>7628591
>>7628436
this vid sent me down a rabbithole of japanese men painting things in water color
Anonymous No.7628591 [Report] >>7628839
>>7628526
>Nothing in that video has anything to do with watercolor
???
>Because it's literally just gouache
yes i agree

>>7628569
theres heaps of jap watercolour videos on there but so few of them have subtitles
Anonymous No.7628838 [Report]
>>7581280
To made edgy and dangerous looking demand letters
Anonymous No.7628839 [Report]
>>7628591
>???
Absolutely nothing in the vid shows them "treating it like watercolor", it's basic bitch gouache.
If you want gouache treated like watercolor, see Huston.
Anonymous No.7630792 [Report]
>>7627465
You're welcome. A lot of people on youtube use poster color weirdly. It's not really got an equivalent outside of asia. I did find that some western companies like faber-castell do sell cheaper sets of poster color in india and other places, but not the US/Europe, it's weird.
Anonymous No.7631451 [Report] >>7631458 >>7631469
I ve bought a dip pen with a g nib and it feels extremely scratchy, also every third stroke I can see some kind of lint gathering on the tip of my nib its really frustrating. Is my nib fucked up or do I need a special kind of paper for dip pens?
Anonymous No.7631458 [Report] >>7631470
>>7631451
>and it feels extremely scratchy
Some fresh nibs can have small metal edges that are quite scratchy for a bit but it should not take more than 15 minutes of using it before those wear down.
>I can see some kind of lint gathering on the tip
You might also try using it in different directions. It could be the tip digging into the paper. Also, I hope you're using hot-pressed paper or bristol board. Anything else is not recommended to use with dip pen.
Anonymous No.7631469 [Report] >>7631473
>>7631451
the scratchiness is the good part
you're probably going full mongoloid on the pen
Anonymous No.7631470 [Report] >>7631480
>>7631458
I have been at it for 3h today and its my third session using it, I have no idea what kind of paper this is, its a 140gsm sketchbook. I had this issue on my previous tries but I thought its print paper's fault
Anonymous No.7631473 [Report] >>7631483 >>7631485
>>7631469
I do but thats because I can barely get any lines out of it with a light touch
Anonymous No.7631480 [Report]
>>7631470
>140gsm sketchbook
Get some bristol board THIS INSTANT
It's possible to draw with nibs on almost any paper but it's not always pleasant.
Anonymous No.7631481 [Report] >>7631491
Also, show photo of you holding the pen and which direction you're making your strokes.
Anonymous No.7631483 [Report] >>7631485 >>7631491
>>7631473
ink's too thick for the nib, use thinner ink or wider nib
Anonymous No.7631485 [Report] >>7631491
>>7631473
>>7631483
also, I'm assuming you know about prepping/cleaning the nib and not to touch it
Anonymous No.7631488 [Report] >>7631551 >>7631631
I have so much art supplies ill literally never, ever use until i stop being afraid of using them and actually drawing. it will outlive me realistically
Im a supplies hoarder i could donate 60% of it and still be set to go
How do i stop being retarded
Anonymous No.7631491 [Report] >>7631494 >>7631498 >>7631540
>>7631481
>>7631485
I have cleaned it with water and soup before first use
>>7631483
I will try to dillute it with water a bit if it doesnt help I will try another nib because I don't think this is supposed to happen
Anonymous No.7631494 [Report]
>>7631491
SOAP lmao
Anonymous No.7631498 [Report]
>>7631491
99.9% chance it's not the nib
you can add a drop of detergent to the ink to increase flow
pull the nib with downward strokes
Anonymous No.7631507 [Report] >>7631638
Are these any good to work with as a beg in watercolor and general? got this set garage sale for $18
Anonymous No.7631540 [Report] >>7631542 >>7631560 >>7631581
>>7631491
Anon....
>I have cleaned it with water and soup before first use
This makes it rusty. Yes, even steel nibs.
Also, you shouldn't do upward strokes since this scratches the paper.
Anonymous No.7631542 [Report]
>>7631540
>This makes it rusty
No it doesn't, retard
Anonymous No.7631551 [Report]
>>7631488
I was like you until I started a sketchbook where I used different things on each page. It's fun trying out what you have hoarded.
Anonymous No.7631560 [Report] >>7631562
>>7631540
It hasnt been that long so this cant be an issue I think, didnt know about strokes, thanks
Anonymous No.7631562 [Report]
>>7631560
Just try out different directions of your strokes and also different angles of your nib to get comfortable with what is possible and what scratches the paper. Once you know how it works it will quickly become second nature.
Anonymous No.7631581 [Report]
>>7631540
what makes it rusty is being covered in ink that's 80% water, dum-dum
alcohol also rusts metal faster than water
Anonymous No.7631631 [Report]
>>7631488
I'm part of a D&D group where a few of the players draw as they play. We take turns bringing art supplies-- alcohol markers, prismas, arrtx paint markers, etc. It's an opportunity to try out new things to see if they're worth buying yourself, and you also see how others experiment with them. Everybody's enthusiastic, and it makes getting into new or unused supplies less anxious.
Anonymous No.7631636 [Report]
why my fucking pocket brush pen leaking.
Anonymous No.7631638 [Report]
>>7631507
check out scott christian sava's review of it.
Anonymous No.7631786 [Report] >>7632532
I make painting panels from scrap wood. They are far more solid than canvas, I get rid of junk, and they look good when I sand the sides and paint them white. Very enjoyable
Anonymous No.7631917 [Report]
>>7577287
Are they better than Zebra? The only ballpoint that no smear and no bleed I haveused is Zebra.
Anonymous No.7632532 [Report] >>7632903
>>7631786
I just did the same with a piece of MDF and some scrap Azek (that weatherproof foamed pvc stuff for decking and exterior trim-- it takes paint well). Once glued, sanded, and primed, it was a smooth, boxy canvas about 2" deep.

I was at our local dump yesterday and someone had left a pile of cabinetry-grade plywood. So I've got enough scrap for ages now.
Anonymous No.7632795 [Report] >>7632906 >>7643498
whats a decent printer? I like printing out works to copy (mostly ink and pencil sketches) and feel like my cheap ass laser printer is losing a lot of fine details compared to what I see on screen. Noticed this more so recently as I've been copying model sheets which have lots of very subtle plane changes at a pretty compact resolution.
Anonymous No.7632903 [Report]
>>7632532
Very nice. Wish I could visit the dump to check for extra plywood but don't have a car. Costs $25+ per sq.m. here
Anonymous No.7632906 [Report] >>7632911
>>7632795
I'm wondering the same. I want to print my own shit and regular printers are not up to the task.
Anonymous No.7632911 [Report]
>>7632906
if its color and you want it archival you need to get a giclee printer ($$$ but cheaper options used look at canon pixma). But I just want something that can print black and white with some competence. Don't need fancy archival ink.
Anonymous No.7632915 [Report] >>7632975 >>7637255
re: printers. Why is it that commercial publications (ads etc) can be so color rich but when I print with my little Epson ET-2815 it comes out drab af, like there's a 25% opacity white layer over it.
Anonymous No.7632975 [Report]
>>7632915
because you fell for the copy paper meme
no, it's not even good for printing
Anonymous No.7633018 [Report]
Well i impulse bought a Namiki Falcon. Can always return it.
Anonymous No.7634038 [Report] >>7634050 >>7634125 >>7643498
Any suggestions for fineliners that don't dry up quickly? I'm using Ohuhu right now. Any better options?
Anonymous No.7634050 [Report] >>7634096
>>7634038
There's none, since the whole point of fineliners is having them dry quickly.
Anonymous No.7634096 [Report]
>>7634050
Oh I meant the pens running out of ink/drying up, not the ink drying when drawing. Unless that's what you meant too in which case I'll just buy more Ohuhus.
Anonymous No.7634125 [Report]
>>7634038
you might have to look into rechargeable ones. I previously suggested the daler rowney empty pens, they're handy and come with extra tips but don't go lower in size than 0.5
I like to use a Sailor calligraphy pen with small tips for delicate details. Again rechargeable. I fill my pens with carbon ink and they last a lifetime
Anonymous No.7634574 [Report] >>7634576
I opened a decades old paint can that’s been sitting in the garage storage room for decades. Possibly even from the 80s based on the design on the can. Because, obviously, it’s a hideous color.

Found a whole lot of rust, some kind of purple liquid, and dry but pliable pigment (I assume) of the proper color. I’m saving them for a color mixing project/experiment I’m planning
Anonymous No.7634576 [Report] >>7634687
>>7634574
Anonymous No.7634687 [Report]
>>7634576
Squeezing that stuff on the right into white made a pretty nice pastel pink I’m gonna use
Anonymous No.7637255 [Report]
>>7632915
Magazines are printed on couche paper using offset inks.
You'll never reach this quality at home. But you can get close at office depot since they do have the paper and their big ass laser printers aren't trash like home/office ones.
Anonymous No.7637664 [Report] >>7637671
Hi guys, i need good ink for my fountain and dip pens.
I have a kukuno extra fine, i tried to draw with Sketch Ink, which is waterproof after drying, it was good until it clogged the pen. I switched to Pelikan ink, the flow is good, but its too watery. What is a good, permanent ink for kukuno ef?
I have problems with my manga nibs as well, i use mostly nibs from deletter, right now. And the flow with indian ink is not good at all, i have schminke and w&n indian ink, and the flow is not great. It work but when i stop drawing for literally 10 seconds, it drys out and stops drawing.
What should i buy, im from europe, if possible i would prefer european brands, cos cheaper and easier to get, compared to japanese or american brands.
Anonymous No.7637671 [Report] >>7637735 >>7637735
>>7637664
I use dokumentus archival ink and so far the flow is great (unless it's really cold). But I only use it with nibs. It's probably not great for fountain pens.
Anonymous No.7637735 [Report] >>7637743
>>7637671
>>7637671
> dokumentus archival ink
Well, my Sketch Ink is from the same brand. And after writing my post i wondered, why i never tried it with my dip nibs, so i did and it worked very well. I will test further, but my first impression was way better than with indian ink.
I tried fountain pen ink with dip nibs before, but its wasn't really great to work with, the viscosity is too low i think. It seams Sketch Ink is something in-between indian ink and fountain pen ink. It works ver well with my parallel pen, but not with an ef nib.
Anyway, i still need an ink for my fountain pen.
Anonymous No.7637743 [Report] >>7637747
>>7637735
I tried both inks and the Sketch Ink was alright but I also didn't like the flow.
Anonymous No.7637747 [Report] >>7637773
>>7637743
Dokumentus is from the same brand, yes, but the flow is much, much smoother. One of the best inks I've ever had and my ink of choice after having tried over 20 different ones.
Anonymous No.7637749 [Report]
No idea about fountain pen ink though. Unironically ask Pawell since he autistically tried out lots of inks and even made ink himself.
Anonymous No.7637773 [Report]
>>7637747
Thx, i will try it out by the next opportunity.
Anonymous No.7640272 [Report] >>7640364 >>7640723 >>7643498
General question: I got some old erasers that got hard and only produce smudges. Are they fucked all the way through or is it just the surface on the bigger ones? The ones on the pencils are a lost cause.
Whats the lifetime of erasers? I mostly do digital so it really sucks having to throw out stuff that has barely been used.
Anonymous No.7640364 [Report] >>7640723
>>7640272
Try rubbing them on sandpaper to "refresh" them.
Anonymous No.7640723 [Report]
>>7640272
>>7640364
just buy a new eraser ffs
Anonymous No.7642256 [Report] >>7643498
>>7624697
Even more stuff. Anyone else trying to get into a new medium lately? Has it been kinda scary for you as well, not knowing what to buy?
Anonymous No.7642863 [Report]
Which brush pen is overall the best and cost less to refill?
Anonymous No.7643498 [Report]
>>7632795
Brother's low end B/W business class ones (in the ~300 USD range) are fantastic.

>>7634038
Copic or Pitt. Pitt are richer blacks but copic are the most resistant to other media from my testing.

>>7640272
They are fucked. Erasers are cheap though.
>Lifetime
Kept inside the wrapper/package they will last a lot longer. I don't know if it's light or air or both that fuck them up but I found a 17+ year old eraser recently that was in a box of some shitty art kit that I had in storage and it somehow still works nicely, albiet it disintegrates into extremely fine crumbs during erasing and has very little drag.

>>7642256
I got some stuff for alchohol inks to do backgrounds/base layers for pictures. Repurposed the glass plate from when my microwave died into a surface to use for it and keep finding some tim holtz tools on clearance around. Turns out copic ink is only like 1-3 cents per ml more compared to other quality inks, and I can use it on my markers. It's fucking silly how people complain about this shit.