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Thread 4480121

16 posts 20 images /p/
RBTWguy No.4480121 [Report] >>4480132 >>4480133 >>4480255 >>4480329 >>4480348
I suck dicks at colour correction
I'm killing another gear thread to get some advice on editing. I think I'm getting better at framing (?lol) but I'm colour retarded. Here are some samples of the last snapshits during my holidays so fags can re-edit them and snuggly post a better version of them while I try to understand why I'm retarded
RBTWguy No.4480122 [Report]
RBTWguy No.4480123 [Report] >>4480329
RBTWguy No.4480124 [Report]
RBTWguy No.4480125 [Report]
RBTWguy No.4480126 [Report]
RBTWguy No.4480128 [Report]
RBTWguy No.4480129 [Report]
RBTWguy No.4480132 [Report] >>4480329
>>4480121 (OP)
Everything is shot on lomo400 (shit film) and developed and scanned by a random (shit) lab hence the quality.
>Inb4 Shooting film and scanning it is pointless
Yes, I also print, go take pictures.
Tripfags are encouraged to use their tripcodes
Anonymous No.4480133 [Report] >>4480381
>>4480121 (OP)
I like the color here, granted I’m not exactly a trained eye.
Anonymous No.4480255 [Report] >>4480381
>>4480121 (OP)
Not bad at all anon. Colors are nice. I would rather focus on exposure if possible.
Anonymous No.4480261 [Report] >>4480381
Frankly, why bother? Might as well enjoy the flaws that come with those cheap films.
Anonymous No.4480329 [Report] >>4480381
>>4480121 (OP)
>>4480123
These ones have a magenta cast.
The rest seem mostly fine.
>>4480132
>shot on film
then just leave them honestly
and they all look coherent imo which is a benefit in a photoseries

I can’t give you any advice on color correcting film, not my wheelhouse
I don’t know if there’s a way to do it chemically or what and it seems redundant to shoot on film but digitally color correct. again, why bother?
Anonymous No.4480348 [Report] >>4480381
>>4480121 (OP)
WEll, it's not bad OP, not at all. You're probably picking up a bit too much blue in your scans, or maybe its in the film, doesnt really matter, & yeah there's some magenta tinting on a couple as noted, but nothing is so out of whack its a big problem here. If you want to dip a toe in, pop a curves adjustment layer on em, and chose each channel individually instead of all RGB together. Take the blue line, click a point off to the side of the upper end of it and drag that point around a bit, and look at what its doing to the amount of blue in the bright areas of the image. Then click another point near the bottom end of the line and move that around, & you'll see the amount of blue in the dark areas change. You can tweak and tweak until you get some pretty natural looking effect, then notice the shape of the line you made and how it relates to the shilouette of the greyed out blue distribution map underlying the line. Do it with every color and after a while you'll notice a pattern that you can emulate right away as a starting point, so you don't have to spend so much time starting from 0. If you're using lightroom, there's one more odd easy tip I'd give ya regarding blue as a structural color under the calibration tab. It's doing some very different things than a simple color control. Tweak it and watch your outdoor images come alive.
RBTWguy No.4480381 [Report]
>>4480133
>>4480255
That wasn't supposed to be a jerk off thread so I'm kinda flattered thanks anons
>>4480261
>>4480329
True I could leave them untouched, but most pics are taken on overcast days which create a white haze, here's the original of the train for instance. When you put them side by side I feel like I've completely overdone the colour correction and my edit looks like a cheap HDR render idk
>>4480348
Thanks for the details
RBTWguy No.4480386 [Report]
On the other hand sometimes the film looks completely fake, here's the "original one" (original = colours chosen by the lab) for the boat. The red looks unreal but I swear it was very red IRL