>>60904197
>Is there anything worth getting over the other or is it all the same in the end?
If you're stacking for wealth preservation, go for the MOST silver for the LEAST money in WHATEVER FORM you can get.
If you can get "constitutional silver" (commonly called junk silver) at or below spot, that is in my opinion the 100% best value for the dollar, and they also have great liquidity. Every other choice is ultimately a compromise between value and liquidity
Let's pretend you have $4100 to spend and premiums are high on US Eagles, medium on Maples and low on generic rounds, and spot for a 100oz bar.
Your money would buy 70 Eagles, 80 Maples, 90 Generic rounds or one 100 oz bar. This is typical of prices when the premiums go up due to high retail demand (we are not there yet).
US Eagles have tax and IRS reporting advantages, but only for Americans, and only for very large amounts over 1000oz.
Sovereign mint legal tender coins like Maples and Philharmonics have tax (VAT) advantages, but primarily for Europeans (20% VAT)
Generic rounds have low premiums and reasonablly liquidity, and are often boring looking.
Bars have lowest premiums but lowest liquidity, you have to sell them at a coin dealer and they will give you the lowest money per oz.
Let's say the spot price of silver doubles to $82.00/oz and assuming you only get spot price
70 Eagles = $5740
80 Maples = $6560
90 generic = $7380
100 bar = $8200
If you expect the price to go up, buy for weight. Higher weight can be tougher to sell however so many people suggest that people who are starting out buy smaller silver AT FIRST because it's easier to sell/trade if you need emergency funds. Once you have a hundred or two oz or so of small stuff, GO FOR WEIGHT and buy the CHEAPEST of whatever.