Search results for "e0cf185975213d332be9d916ef4a842f" in md5 (2)

/o/ - /CCG/ Classic Car General: Are we going to do this right this time? Edition
Anonymous No.28569029
>>28569016
Yes...I was thinking about this. However, it's not running crazy high. High side is about 195 at 90 degrees ambient temperature. R134 will run into the 230s sometimes. So I think it will be fine for now, but you are correct. If it continues working well, I probably will order the Frosty Cool. It is supposed to run lower pressures than R12 and r134.
The low side is doing something weird I've never seen before. It's running at about 45-50 psi at idle then drops to 25-30 when it's revved up. Still blows cold at idle but it blows colder when revved up. Is this because of the propane or because of the EPR valve? It has that valve in addition to the TXV to keep the evaporator from freezing up, because it does not have a clutch cycling switch. Not exactly sure how it works, but I know other manufacturers had similar valves for that reason. I've never worked on an old system like this before, so I don't know what is normal.
/o/ - /CCG/ Classic Car General: Sweet Succulent Ass Edition
Anonymous No.28507145
God damn this compressor is being extra gay. Anybody got experience with carbon seals?
Replaced the leaking condenser o-ring, then the front carbon seal on the compressor started leaking. Replaced it with a new santech seal specifically for this compressor. Leaking really bad now. I'm wondering if somehow I got it at the wrong depth. There's a spring on it so I'm guessing it has to but up against the inner bearing race to put pressure on the seal, but I dunno. I need to pull it back off and look at the length of both seals.

Do I need to run the compressor to mate the carbon seal to the steel plate?