This is a general for everything 3D printed relating to /tg/ from sci-fi, fantasy, historicals, fantasy football, and more! Share your printed minis, terrain, print fails, 3d modelling, printing advice, works in progress, or anything else /tg/-related to 3D printing.

>DO:
- Post pics of your prints be they fails or triumphs
- Keep discussion/photos about tabletop games only
- Post your resin/printer/settings for faster advice
- Help your fellow anons with advice

>TRY TO:
- Remember that this general is monitored by GWendolin and her lawyers
- Not make a new thread until old one dies
- Not encourage namefags, tripfags, fumefags and coomers
- Not spoonfeed
- Not war over Filament/Resin consoles
- Keep your model pics naked (no paint/undercoat only)
- Look after small artists/studios
- Buy something from or tip an artist/studio you like
- Read the last 3 threads before posting

>FAQ
https://pastebin.com/raw/Lv0vvd7d

>Resources
https://pastebin.com/raw/hmSJixAy

>Guides (Install 4ChanX script for better experience)
FDM Troubleshooter: https://pastebin.com/raw/H1en2ghM
Resin Troubleshooter: https://pastebin.com/raw/SbYWdMnC
Resin Safety: https://radtech.org/safe-handling-of-3d-printing-resins/
Printer Buying: https://pastebin.com/raw/1Kfib5YK

https://youtu.be/roAqm5c3rfU
https://youtu.be/koMNXvSlpSs
https://youtu.be/cjDpmh2NQMU
https://youtu.be/xS7h_5di3Tc
https://youtu.be/GL-9Ia0SibQ
https://youtu.be/xw_ClxnJ1_U
https://youtu.be/ZXJQ5vQG0ZA
https://youtu.be/bWUfshO17b8
https://youtu.be/cGAgyRVK32g
https://youtu.be/YMO4Va2vT3Q

>Last Thread: >>95935300

What number(s) should I punch in the 1.000 section of Blender to scale a 32mm miniature down to 28mm percentage wise?

Or is it just better to use a "benchmark scale checking model?"
https://cults3d.com/en/3d-model/various/sgt-scalesby-the-miniature-scaling-dummy

>>96071199 (OP)
Thoughts on FDM printing miniatures?
This is with my A1 mini and a 0.2 nozzle.
General consensus seems to be that Arachne wall generation is better for minis, but I seem to get more detail with classic.

>>96071264
its infinitely better that what was possible with FDM just 2 years ago, and still worse than what was possible with cheap resin 6 years ago.

Dont get me wrong - its perfectly playable and does not look bad. But its like a vegan burger - it takes disproportional amount of effort to be kinda-sorta-almost as good as the cheapest and most basic one made by traditional means.

>>96071377
May not be good enough for a painting competition but I would say this is a pretty good alternative for people who can't/don't want to deal with Resin no? It's definitely more work to get good results however.

anyone got a Saturn 4 ultra 16k? I'm thinking about upgrading from an anycubic mono X

>>96071611
I got a normal S4U a while ago, and I like it. It prints fine, and even at colder temps I got good results without heating, probably because the tilt mechanism can push better through cold, thick resin.

But it has a mechanism that is a bit more prone to mechanical failure and it has the gap where you can get resin into the machine, but since you are not new to printing think back, how often did you get a huge resin spill? If its often that means this is not a machine for you.

>>96071764
yea i was kinda worried about the tilt mechanism fucking up, did you have any issues with it so far?

>>96071776
Mine works fine and I bought a used one with loads of resin in it, so I had to clean a spill not of my own. You have to tear the whole machine apart for it, but if you leave the machine upright, most of the resin won't reach the motherboard or lens, just cables and motors, which is bad but cleanable.

There is a way to use some tape to fold some accordeon style cover that can bend and still keep away resin, but I did not bother for now.

I had some issues with Lychee early on, because it added a useless lift that multiplied the print time, so I started using SateLite and it works fine now, so I kept using it.

On reddit I saw people having problems with the tilt mechanism when the sensor that stops the tilt breaks, but people go there if they have problems, so its hard to know if it is a huge problem or some bad machines. It should be almost no risk if you buy new, I used elegoo printers from the mars 1 to now, and they have good customer support for a china bases manufacturer.

>>96071897
thanks for the info anon!

Does somebody know what happened to Wilph?

Is it a good idea to fill your drain holes with epoxy after they're printed or just leave them open forever? I've got a giant with a drain hole in the crotch but it's not visible because of the pelts around his waist. I guess I'm worried about a piece of epoxy breaking off and rattling around in there.

>>96071611
I upgraded from the original Mars Pro to the 16k and it's crazy how good it is to use. I don't trust the auto print fail detection, and they made the top of the build plate too flat so even after leaving for hours to drain, you'll still get a shitload of resin drip off when you first remove the plate. Remember to use the little vat bib thing they supply for when you take the build plate out and in and you'll be golden.
For print quality and ease of use, I'd say they've made printers almost idiot-proof at this point, especially if you stick to verified pre-supported files

>>96071264
>>96071515
Are these straight from the printer or have you already done some post-printing work on them like filing? Because if they are directly from the printer they are pretty great for FDM prints.

>>96073199
>drain holes
You really should be looking for creators that can do actual parts breakdowns instead of saddling yourself with partially cured internal volumes. It's bad practice.

>>96071264
General consensus is to use resin.

Some of these files have pretty visible polygons. Do they print okay or do these files need to be edited in order to be useable?

>>96071264
>>96071515
I firmly believe it's good enough for faggots like you and me who don't have the option to will to go resin, and are not gunning for great minis, just something that looks good enough on the table when playing.

anyone got stls for these rogue guys?

>>96074197
There is post processing work, mainly support removal and cleanup. This is the biggest thing holding back FDM printing IMO. The nun in particular took me over an hour to carefully remove the supports without breaking anything.

I think the detail on FDM is now at the point it's good enough to compete with resin (close enough for most people). But it's a lot of work to dial in the settings and calibrate your filament, and involves a lot more post printing cleanup.

>>96074234
Not an option for a lot people unfortunately, and I don't want to use a printing service.

>>96075383
>not gunning for great minis
I mean I am, there's still some tweaking to be done in regards to settings but I think it's already reasonably close. In person I doubt 95% of people would be able to tell the difference without holding it right up to their eyeball.

>>96073680
What brand of resin are you using? My 16k was delivered today. I picked up a bottle of the Siraya that says it's good for up to 12k and I'm not sure what the options are for 16k printing or if there's really much of a difference between 12k and 16k.

>>96074735
Depends on the scale. When you're staring at it zoomed in 1000000% in the slicer it may seem super low poly but then it'll be fine when printed because one tri is 0.01mm^2.

What super glue are you guys using? I bought some Army Painter but it hardens so fast I struggle to align small parts correctly. Anyone know a brand the dries slow enough to allow realignment?

>>96076417
The liquid bottles of this brand, has never failed me besides that one time on one of the smaller bottles the hole got stopped up :(

>>96076099
Maybe I worded it wrong. FDM minis can look great, but there are physical limits what the method can achieve.

btw what are your support settings, that sword and rifle came out really clean

>>96077782
For the nun I split the models at the elbows so that they could be printed with less support. But I'm using hollow organic tree supports with top z distance double the layer height.

For the rifle it's already separate so it just has to be pointed vertical to minimise overhangs. Orienting the model to reduce overhangs is a key part of reducing support scarring

>>96077956
Makes sense. Bit unfortunate when orienting creates overhangs elsewhere

>>96077980
Yeah hence why you need to split the model sometimes.

>>96077990
That's also not so shrimple every time.
Not saying this to argue, just mentioning my woes

>>96078016
No doubt, getting good results with FDM is an art.

>>96072681

GW hit him with a C&D.

I'm looking for his Horus Heresy related files, especially power armor variants. Anyone in possession of these, I'd appreciate a share.

>>96078265
Same here thought I could print some Marines for HH 3.0.
I hope they reappear some where, would even pay for them.

>>96071264
I have seen videos where non-vehicle FDM minis look good enough if you're treating them as actual game pieces, often looked at from a distance anyway. Still, I must imagine the print lines are probably a nuisance for some styles of painting, and does it take a lot of time for just one guy to print before postprocessing?

>>96078322
>I must imagine the print lines are probably a nuisance for some styles of painting
If printed properly and after priming print lines cease to exist. If you were dry-brushing or using contrast you would probably still want to add a couple additional coats of base paint just to make it a bit smoother.
>does it take a lot of time for just one guy to print before post-processing?
Depends what you consider a long time and what your settings are. Higher detail settings will slow things down.

>>96078316

Another Anon delivered, may you also benefit.

>>96078316

https :// gofile[DOT]io/d/Xta0y0

>>96071222
0.875
Are you really incapable off using a calculator?

my cheap aliexpress resin is starting to fail me now that I have nothing to lace it with

>>96078768
>Are you really incapable off using a calculator?
No worse. I am terrible at math.

>>96078796
>>96078768
And thanks anon. Sorry about forgetting to say that.

>>96072681

Unfortunately nuked by James Workshop. He took down everything remotely “unoriginal” and will not be offering for sale it again. It’s all gone for good.

Seems like James’ murder spree of creators continues, right in line with their “no model no rules, no bits no options” edition.

>>96078450

Appreciate the leaks, but I think the ask was for the print files!

>>96078353
I see. How many tries does it take for you on average?

>>96078316
Same bro, I'd started buying his stuff bit by bit then it got totally taken down. That'll teach me to not just throw away money like a trophy wife. If anyone has any of those it's be much appreciated

>>96079351
Seconded. Last week I thought I should buy the Dreadnought but no I waited.

>>96079287
Did he somwhere say that he wont upload it again (or at another source?)

>>96078265
>>96078316
Tell me what you want from this

>>96079387
He seems pretty definite that It's gone. I'm guessing with the patreon and professional sculpting work he's doing he doesn't need the hassle of a legal case

>>96079387
>>96079351
>>96078316
>>96072681

https : //we.(dot)tl/t-oOGOmkEnrN
https : //we(dot)tl/t-g0tutirMpU

From hhg

>>96078353
>If printed properly and after priming print lines cease to exist.

Lies of P

(p stand for printfag)

>>96079310

Welp, I can't read it seems. Here's the right link.

https : // gofile[DOT]io/d/V11hKG

What causes a print to fail but continuing to print? In me last batch I had 6/10 (to be fair, I got greedy) failures and some simply didn’t print the knee of the mini and continued to its feet.

>>96076195
Elegoo ABS-like 3.0 green, and try to focus less on the "##k" numbers which mean next to nothing because it doesn't factor screen size. Look at xy resolution instead. 3.0 was designed to be less viscous so it handles the higher speed and detail better than others I've tried, but as always, you just need to test things and find out what works for you

>>96080944
Resin printing is a fight between the evil forces that want to keep the printed layer on the FEP film, and the good forces that keep it connected to the buildplate.
When the evil side wins, the layer gets snapped and a pancake stays on the film. for the next layers it just stays there and gets overcured because it now has no connection to the buildplate. Often it grows a bit, because the printed part shifts.

Sometimes at a later moment some working printing part connects to the pancake. If that happens, either
>it keeps breaking between them
>they connect and the printed part now carries the weight of both parts and rips the pancake off the film and from now it prints again
>the evil force wins and the whole model rips off the buildplate and stays from now in the vat

Are there any trannygram groups for cathay yet?

>>96079591

Links dead or me dumb?

>>96071199 (OP)
While I understand the reason and don't want to be spoonfed how to find the troves it still bugs me that I have to re-learn how we're securing things these days

My friend is getting into WH40K, and I am once again thinking about a resin printer to make a little force to play against his sororitas.

I also have a few models of Warmachine and wouldn't mind running up some units for WarmaHordes to paint up for D&D stuff. (Yes I know about MZ4250).

Plus trench crusade looks cool

>AND NOW MY POINT
I'm considering picking up a resin printer. What are the good names in lower cost resin printers lately?

As an FDM user I haven't kept up with the resin side of the industry. I know anycubic and elegoo have the mono 4 and mars 5, but I don't know much on other brands.
>WHAT DO Y'ALL PRINT MINIS ON?
Is there an operating cost on resin printers an amateur wouldn't be immediately aware of? (Parts that wear out?)
>insert tips and tricks if you'd like

Image is a generic "sci-fi Gothic Cathedral" ruin I'm printing for my friend to display his sister's on.
>printing @.4mm nozzle .12mm layer height 50% speed settings on a K2 plus

>K2 plus ABSOLUTELY comes with teething trouble. I had to clip a couple of springs and tweak a lot of stuff and the sensor module in the filament buffer was dead out of the box. Once that was ironed out, it functions flawlessly.

>will recommend BUT ONLY if you find it on sale and if you have a stout friend to help you put it in place, fucker is HEAVY. My daughter and I had a troubling time getting it up the stairs and on the printer podium.

>>96091628
>What are the good names in lower cost resin printers lately?
Mars 5 Ultra.
>mono 4
It's not bad, but anycubic has worse QA, customer support and less replacement parts on the market. So you better pray that your printer works perfectly forever if you buy one of those.
The step-up in price would be a Uniformation
GK3.
>Is there an operating cost on resin printers an amateur wouldn't be immediately aware of? (Parts that wear out?)
Yes. The most obvious cost is resin, gloves and a respirator. Then there's the choice between regular and water-washable resin. Regular resin needs to be washed in some sort of solvent, usually isopropyl alcohol, resin detergent or methylated spirits (my personal choice). So there's that.
If you want more convenience, you will want to get a wash and cure station. But you can absolutely make do with 3 buckets.
Replacement part-wise, you will need to replace the FEP (the release film at the bottom of the tank) regularly, but it's relatively cheap, and the LCD screen itself will eventually die and need to be replaced. Other parts usually don't fail with any meaningful periodicity.

Which resin printer would you recommend for an Australian right now?
How bad is printing on a smaller printer?
I primarily paint, don't game

>>96094136
>doesnt game
>posting on /tg/

>>96071264
I use an A1 with 0.4 nozzle and custom settings. Despite the larger nozzle, using 0.03 layer height profiles does some good quality prints. I have printed whole rogue trader scan minis with supports and still have the detail you would have with resin for an organically sculpted model with texturing like with old rogue minis. If you're carefull you could even put supports on a chainsword and snap off the supports to reveal the chain blade interfaced with it without damage. It just werks, but the problem is time. It takes me 3.5 hours to do one mini, and if there is a fuckup I have to go all the way back to the start. But despite having a resin printer I prefer to just plug and play with my A1 and not worry about the mess or using up my resin in time before it is not viable.

>>96075861
>There is post processing work, mainly support removal and cleanup. This is the biggest thing holding back FDM printing IMO.
Resin is worse in regarda to post processing. You need to wash, cure then remove supports while FDM is just remove supports then glide with a lighter.

>>96074234
Remember: consensus is not exactly reality.

>>96094335
>cure then remove supports
Retard.

>>96087420

Dead monicca

>>96094524
I have done it for 2 years, cut me some slack anon. You still need to do morw post-processing

>>96095259
>Haven't done it*

>wear gloves
>start messing with prints
>dunk them in a bucked for washing
>gloves punctured, cancer alcohol all over my fingers
I fucking hate dealing with nitrile gloves.

>>96099387
I just don't wear gloves when dealing with prints.

What are these vertical lines I'm getting? I know they aren't layers because they're perpendicular to the plate. Printer is a Saturn 2 with basic anycubic grey.

What’s a good durable grey resin for 3d printing more resilient miniatures for gaming? I’m not gonna be throwing miniatures around but I like the idea of minis being able to survive a table to floor fall.

Got my replacement LCD from anycubic and finally get to start on the project that's been waiting.

>>96071199 (OP)
How are the smaller scales in printer world? I am thinking about picking one up now that they are closer to being idiot proof.

For those who played historicals has it had a big impact on your options?

>>96100966
Can’t see it. Could be aliasing.
>>96101198
Do you want springiness or just “normal” strength? For springiness, 50/50 sunlu abs-like and sunlu toughness. For strength, that wargamers resin from that youtuber.

>>96101551
>For strength, that wargamers resin from that youtuber
What the Wargamers resin by Fauxhammer?
That shit is over 150 Canadian dollars where I am. I'm totally raked here.

I don't know if I want springiness or normal strength. Just survival off a table's height. Preferably without mixing as I am fairly new to 3D printing and I've been reading a bit of the pastebins. Managed to not find anything.

>>96101494
For more obscure vehicles, printing absolutely was a game changer. Miniatures are available too, but not as needed I think

>>96102287
It depends on the miniatures. For regular stuff, strength is enough. For something thin like spears or similar, springiness is what you want

>>96102344
>For regular stuff, strength is enough. For something thin like spears or similar, springiness is what you want
Well shit. Is there a compromise between both by chance preferably without having to mix resins?

>>96101198
Sunlu ABS like is all you need
Ignore the tard ITT

>>96100966
Was it printed in a diagonal pointing up?
That looks like the faces are not parallel to the pixels in the screen and are rotated at a very shallow angle. So those lines would be different layers

>>96099666
Death fears this man

>>96102587
I've been using Sunlu ABS and it works a dream. I agree with this anon

Anyone happen to have these?

lost the canopy to my land fortress, anyone got a file?

>>96104661
It would really help if you would mention what exactly they are.

Maybe this gets asked here often, but what's a cheap affordable resin printer that I can use to just print some scatter terrain and a few modern vehicles with?
I'm not looking for top of the line premium printer

I've read some articles and watched YouTube videos on this topic, but they are all so obviously paid to shill specific printers that I don't know what to trust anymore

>>96104849
Phelynx for necromunda.

>>96071264
Looks bad
Models made with FDM can't even take a wash with all the grooves
Good for terrain though

Why does the FAQ in the OP read like it was written by a smug pretentious redditor? I cringed

>>96104853
anything made in the last 2 years is almost top of the line. Me and most people prefer elegoo because they have usually the best quality and customer service of the cheap printers.

If you want vehicles and terrain that means that a mars will probably be too small, so look for a saturn.

S4Ultra16K>S4Ultra12k>Saturn 3 Ultra>Saturn 4>Saturn 3
Choose which one works for your price range, hope you know that you need to post cure the models and that may take some equipment.

>>96105089
>that may take some equipment
Sunlight.

I guess this is right place to ask - I bought online few resin prints and they arrived today but some parts are little flexible (and little smelly). Does this mean that they should be left on sunlight or UV lamp a while? Also, should such bought 3D prints be washed in soap water or I could assume that whoever did the print already washed them? Thanks for help.

Could someone help me find Satotta tau models from Wakelessrex for epic?
Those are the only decent ones for 6mm and 8mm, and even then the suits are full of weapons pointing backwards and dumb poses. Burt the firewarriors, pathfinders and kroot are great.

>>96105526
Soapy water will do nothing to them, if there would still be liquid resin on them. It wont hurt tho. You never know who touched the models with their greasy fingers.
If you suspect them to be (partially) uncured, wash them with IPA (99%) alcohol and avoid direct sunlight before doing that. Or ignore the alcohol, and put the models into the sun for a few minutes from all sides, that will cure any uncured spots. If you have an UV lamp, you can use that too of course.

>little flexible
Depending on the resin used, this could be totally normal, and can be the desired effect.
>smelly
Depends on the resin too, some will smell for a long time sadly

>>96105819
>Satotta
This stuff?

How do you guys patch support marks? Is there any way to prevent them from happening in the first place? I dip my prints in hot water before peeling the supports off but they still leave little holes.

>>96105876
About smell - does this also mean that they cannot be painted for longer period of time? I mean, I recall one guy asking his customers not to plug holes on his prints or they "might literally explode". Does this mean the resin still "works"?

>>96105928
I like thinning down Tamiya putty with lacquer thinner and brushing that over the holes. It levels out and you can sand it for a smooth finish.

>>96106081
No, thats a different topic entirely. If the model is hollow, or if there is a small (or large) cavity by accident (because of bad sculpting) in the model, liquid resin can and will get trapped inside a model. To prevent that, people make drainage holes in models that are supposed to be hollow.
If not, the liquid resin will find its way to the outside eventually, and this causes models to crack (i.e. what people call explode). If its not hollow, it should be fine.

To make that a bit easier, what models did you get? Maybe post a pic?

>>96105889
Yes!

>>96105889
>>96106290
Were can I find those? Could you share please?

>>96102287
>What the Wargamers resin by Fauxhammer?
Yeah
> That shit is over 150 Canadian dollars where I am. I'm totally raked here.
Yes, it’s highway robbery. But some people want their minis to feel a very specific way and it’s the best resin for that afaik.
> I don't know if I want springiness or normal strength. Just survival off a table's height
Personally I’d rather have springiness. The problem is that if it gets too springy, some things start to deform. But the 50/50 mix I mentioned already has a decent amount of rigidity. Could even do 75% abs-like
But I don’t pay the youtuber for his resin either, so idk.

>>96104911
Filename of the creator, otherwise you wont find it.

>>96106287
Well, those in particular are not hollow but I noticed that some thin elements like staff or swords are little bendy so I suspect them to not be fully cured yet. Lots of small elements in general and they came mixed together (from 3 models) but let's say it's a challenge to overcome.

>>96106319
aHR0cHM6Ly9nb2ZpbGUuaW8vZC9MREFDS0U=
Have fun

>>96106470
I'd say, put them into the sun for 15 minutes and turn them around for another 15 minutes.

But remove the supports first. It could (!) be, that he did not fully cure some parts because supports are still attached for transport security reasons (or laziness).

>>96106439
Ah, I see
>SET OF ESCHER PHELYNX MINIATURES
There you go.

>>96106508
I have been looking for this models for years. I'm new and I don't know how to use the url, any extra clues?

>>96106508
>>96106645
I'm trying to lurk but just not sure where to combine all the bits.

>>96106508
>>96107774
Lurking was da way, thank you brodah

>>96105889
may I ask for the rest of the WE files? I'm missing: Avian mercenaries
Recon Rangers
Infantry Mech Assault Suits
apc
drones
Shock Infantry

Thank you again once more.

>>96094316
He might need to print custom bits to paint game minis?

>>96092450
>uniformation GK3
I'll look into that

Costs
>gloves, resin, and isopropyl
I expected these costs

>respirator, detergent/methylated, FEP
I wasn't aware of these costs.

>LCD death
Is this a bad cost?
I assume I need to buy replacements from the OEM specifically?

>anycubic=less customer support
Good to know. Does elegoo do better?

>wash and cure station
Got any firsthand reviews?
If I find a decent one I'll put it on my Christmas list (dad's been generous before, and now I have a kitchen-aid mixer)

>GRUMBLE
STILL WORKING OUT HOW TO FIND THE TROVE AND HOW TO WORK WITH TELEGRAM. I HATE ADULTING SOMETIMES CAUSE I GOT NO TIME TO LEARN SHIT.
>/GRUMBLE

>>96109144
>anycubic=less customer support
I just got a replacement LCD from them for a new printer with no cost, no hassle and only 2 weeks delivery (from china) so anons anecdotal experience is opposite of mine.

>>96109159
>no cost no hassle
Under some kind of warranty?
Or just not a serious cost?

Still, this difference is informative.

>>96109489
I didn't pay for a warranty, part was free.

As much as I would love to pay the guy does anybody have liber deamonica helmet files? I just can’t justify paying so much in shipping.

I've been looking for some stls of old school space marines in marks of power armour other than mk7. Do any of you Anons know where I could find some?
The best one I've seen so far is this guy, but I've only been able to find him on Yeggi. Could any of you point me in the right track to find the actual file?

I noticed something:
>there are plattforms that host/sell STL files
>there are plattforms that allow exchange between people who 3d-print (like reddit or /3dpg/ and some discord communities)

But there is not really a plattform that specifically aims to provide (ideally high quality) reviews of STL files. Either about compatibility, aesthetics, supports and general quality. Why is that? Would that not be something of interest to many people who have a printer?

>>96109159
And I had a problem with how on my kobra 3 the offset keeps drifting and they kept sending me the same boilerplate advice to clean my plate and check the belts to fix that the saved number in the printer keeps rising if I don't level before every print.

On the elegoo side, I also got replacement parts (an emmc) when I needed them, without costs.

>>96111174
>compatibility
Until printers became good enough to not need a lot of tinkering those would be mostly useless as you would need to compare to a huge amount of machines

Besides that, a problem is probably that many of the models people would want to know about are sure to be struck down for copyright violation once they get too famous.

And we are talking about digital files from small artists, they can change them when people say something is bad, so you need to keep an eye on everything you've reviewed or you might screw over someone because you reviewed v0.9 that was shit until the creator recognized that he uploaded the wrong file and now everyone thinks they are bad.

>>96109144
>>LCD death
>Is this a bad cost?
>I assume I need to buy replacements from the OEM specifically?
Yes, really damn expensive. The good news is, if you're not being stupid and damaging them yourself, they do tend to last a good long while. Depending on how often you print, by the time it fails it may be worth considering a printer upgrade anyway. If my sonic mighty 4k LCD dies now, I'll be buying a new printer rather than fixing it.

>>wash and cure station
>Got any firsthand reviews?
>If I find a decent one I'll put it on my Christmas list (dad's been generous before, and now I have a kitchen-aid mixer)
I have the elegoo Mercury X bundle and they're great, no issues whatsoever. Keep in mind that they're purely a convenience and you'll still need a second tub of ipa (2 step wash methods still gives best results no matter what machines you have). 2 tubs of IPA, a bin lined with foil and a UV lamp (a lid of some sort as well to avoid UV light spillage) will do exactly the same job just as well and for a lot cheaper.

>>96111726
I actually meant compatibility between STL-set X and GW set Y for example. Or in between Set X and Set Z of the same creator. Sometimes there are uniquly shaped neck or arm joints for your "not-guardsmen" that are just annoying, and you only find out about that when you have the files in the slicer.

But i see what you mean with your remaining points. Lots of work, with little return for anyone who would provide such plattform

Been lurkin a while now, with the obvious gram channels being nuked and even some of the less obvious grams going down where in the everloving FUCK am I supposed to find 1-1 STLs. I don't want spoonfeeding but I am losing my mind just trying to find something as supposedly simple as an infernus marine on the web. It feels like it's fuckin easier to buy drugs online nowadays than find an actual james shop rip. I don't want proxies, I don't want alternatives/derivatives/some fags "cool mashup" I want to print my jimmy spacers and paint em instead of paying thru the teeth for a handful of plastics
How do I manage to get into 3d printing at the worst time

>>96113044
There are countless of telegram channels. If you lurked there as you say, you should have the names of at least one or two guys who actually do post stuff regularly. Just fucking ask.

>>96113044
stuff like this?

>>96110362
I have bunch of packs I collected in the past couple of months with googlefu. One of them is pic rel
I could try to share them if you'd like

>>96113044
There’s some actually great groups that went public recently. They have 50-60% of the entire GW AoS and 40k range as scans. You only need to know where to look.
The only reason we don’t tell you here is because it makes it easier for the rats to find their way in via archives and stuff.
Also, sometimes there just aren’t any scans around. Lumineth scans, for example, simply don’t exist.

>>96113924
> Lumineth scans, for example, simply don’t exist.

I wonder why.. but one day, they will run out of stuff to scan, and then the time of the less popular stuff will come.

>>96105889
>>96106508
>>96107988
Any chance pf getting the other files please? You have the kroot and those are great. The recon rangers and the infantty mech assault suits would be very useful.

>>96113812
Thanks Anon, I would appreciate that

>>96113612

Yes. I have 4800pts from ~ five years ago of what are now fIrSt BoRnnnn and I haven’t even painted all this stuff yet.

So I’d like to print minis and pose them like the dudes I already bought and paid for.

>>96113044
do you want infernus marines?

Anyone know a good STL for a crashed WW2 plane? I figure it'd be a good centerpiece for Bolt Action. Probably something German or American for max utility.

In exchange, I offer a photo of my recently printed and painted houses.

>>96113044
>>96116966
https://files.catbox.moe/8z4gxs.zip
get it while it's hot

Bros some of the groups I’m in got strike down.
Is there a group that basically serves the purpose of helping sods like me finding groups that Gwendolyn may not like me finding out about? Prefer the answers in nurgle’s rot please.

>>96109144
>I primarily paint, don't game
>don't game
he's just an artfag and needs to fuck off

>>96106508
>already gone
fuck

>>96114158
>hedonites of slaneesh massively outnumbering other armies
Definitely a trustworthy sample.

>>96117612
It's just a vote on what should get scanned for August.

>>96117727
Is this recent? Isnt everything from SBG already scanned? Maybe missing Barrow Guard?

>>96117739
It's this month's vote from a certain group for what a certain guy should do next month for AoS.

>>96117887
>what a certain guy should do next month for AoS
i dont see an option to kill himself so i wont be voting

>>96115541
aHR0cHM6Ly9nb2ZpbGUuaW8vZC80Y091cXE=
that's the one on the pic
gonna have to go through the rest, but busy in the next few days. I'll try to post on Sunday or Monday

>>96117887
Don't know the group but are the scans free or is it another jewery where the dude is selling his scans?

>>96118689
Nobody buys entire GW factions per month to scan them and then give out those files for free

>>96118740
>Nobody buys entire video game catalogs to rip them and then give out those files for free
>Nobody buys entire albums to upload them and then give out those files for free
>Nobody buys entire manga collections to scan them and then give out those files for free
Asking for donations is fine, but making people pay for something illegal is extra jewish

>>96118813
How many scans have you provided to the "community" for free Anon?

>>96113044
I dont get this mindset. Why desire something in resin, if its available in plastic? For me, the entire reason to get a printer was to be able to print things i could not get otherwise. All this talk about scans and perfect 1 to 1 copies seems so weird to me.

>>96118850
>I don't see the point in trying to print something out of $0.25 worth of resin when you could just buy it for $65
>well you could have bought it for $65 but it was discontinued to make room on the shelf for the new Intercessors with Even Uglier Guns

>>96118850
You are one of the lucky ones. Not everyone has a place where they can play with whatever minis they want to print. Plenty of people have only a place where they either don't play, play with official models they can't afford, or try to print stuff so close to the original that most people don't know the difference.

Also, some people just like the official models and having scans guarantees that the scaling is right. So often you find great models for one unit type but the creator got taken down so now you have to kitbash or find other models that look good with that, and the farther you go from official looks the harder it gets.

And, now that I think about it, many of the newer versions of GWs games use true line of sight, so people will be angry if the head is not at the right position and the silhouette is not close enough to the "proper" model.

>>96118612
Are those fummels?

>>96119195
I get the 2nd point, but he was not asking for some soulful oldhammer mini thats OOP for years, but for the newest, and sloppiest interrcessors of all.
My point was not against scans in general, but scans of the newest plastic CAD crap GW is releasing. It just has zero appeal to me.

>>96119294
Agreed, playing with a group of friends, i have some liberties compared to playing inside a store. But still, there are so many interesting models and proxies to choose from, and if i wanted to print (and paint lol) everything thats available right now, it would take me years.. I stopped bothering with GW stuff almost entirely.

Has anyone tried printing a rhino or pred with an FDM such as the A1? Thinking of trying to do a squandron of them but I haven't done vehicles before

So I printed a Warlord Titan, FDM Skeleton with Resin Armor plates, has any one else here done the same? If so What Magnet sizes did you use to magnetize?

So my choice is between anycubic that comes with a few annoyances or elegoo that also comes with a few annoyances. Guess I'll just wait for the next generation and hope it doesn't suck

>>96113924
>>96114158
sorry for hoping to be spoonfed, but can we at least get a hint of what to look for/where to look? just searching through telegram is leaving a lot to be desired but maybe i'm not using the right keywords

>>96121031
idk, what could such keyword be?

>>96121081
and before you now tell me that this is from some hidden secret group.. Nope, its from a huge public group with almost 40k members (literally).
If you cant find groups like that, i really cant help you.

>>96121081
>>96121094
i was referring to the channels rather than specific files - just joining groups via the "similar channels" to build a massive list. but i found everything shown in your screenshot with ease, so maybe that's just as good as it gets without private groups

>>96121203
Nobody will tell you specific small channels. And you wont find them, because even if you had their exact name, 99% of them are private and invite only.
To get access, you need to do more than just lurk on telegram. Upload stuff or forward stuff if someone asks for it and you happen to see it in any other group, answer questions in general etc.
It sucks, but nobody will invite a random guy who never posted a single file or word into a closed group for scans.

>>96121031
I was in the same position as you the start of this year. What you have to do is channel hop group to group and be part of 15+ different groups. Most STL groups have affiliates or members will advertise other channels which daisy chain. Took me no more than an evening to do and you will find groups with a steady feed of new scans. You need to be on the ball though as sometimes you will get a purge of files but the listings stay up and you can try messaging active members or requesting to see if someone still has it. A lot of the channels are slavic though, or at least the ones I am in are overwhelmingly slavic. You will get there anon, but handouts won't help you even if it was allowed.

>>96121203
What scans are you looking for exactly? Modern or old?

I don't have a window to vent a resin printer out of. Would a grow-tent inside of the garage be viable, with a fan to blow out of the open garage when curing and washing? Respirator/gloves and all that good stuff too of course.

>>96121450
If you are concerned about fumes you are better off looking at a hard enclosure setup (similar to FDM temp control enclosures). Fan venting is not that effective unless you have an actual vacuum system in place like those inside of indoor automotive workshops so unless you put the work in for engineering a proper extractor you are likely going to run into problems with the fumes not properly venting. You will also need active filters to help with the fumes which will need to be replaced here and there depending on how much printing you do. Honestly you're best bet is having a shed or a room at the back of your house away from utilities with some big windows you can open and a door that is secure from drafts.

>>96121450
>>96121531
For further context I used to use a Creality SLA printer years ago before stopping and switching to FDM because of the issues with fumes and my house. It is not going to give you super aids, but it can give you a headache sometimes due to the smell and """prolongued""" exposure is what causes problems. But honestly you should be more concerned about handling and body contact with the actual resin, especially with cleaning.

>>96121531
>>96121568

Interesting. I considered a small outdoor closet-shed, like some people use to store power tools.
I would likely only be printing batches of small miniatures for my TTRPGs.

A print-service may be more practical in my case

>>96121568
>you should be more concerned about handling and body contact with the actual resin
You should be more concerned about vehicular emissions, preservatives in your food and breathing open air in urban areas than you should be with anything about resin printing.

>>96071199 (OP)
whats a good range that has bloodbonre hunter vibes for 28mm. I want to make a bloodborne inspired warband for mordheim. Sigmarites who have contracted lycanthropy.

>>96125105
Bestiarum Miniatures has a strong Souls-like look to their minis. I don't remember if any are wearing tricorn hats though.

>>96125705
thanks!
Some good things.

>>96127100

>>96104935
>Looks bad

The technology has come a long way, after a primer they can take wash just fine.

Was there a Dark Eldar or Drukhari warrior stl with old school spiky coneheads? I remember seeing one.

>>96115541
>>96118612
added the rest of my stuff, it wasn't that much actually

>>96119366
what?

Rollercoaster of a past 24hrs
>somehow one print forms a massive hole in the FEP
>it’s leaks all inside the machine because of the fucking tilt
>looks like there’s a massive crack in the screen
>after cleaning everything still worried about that crack
>notice something is sticking up on the screen
>wtf
>it’s a fucking screen protector, the crack is in the screen protector not the screen
>elegoo apparently started putting these in after people complained about leaks enough
Thank you based retards you’ve hopefully saved my printer

>>96117019
You f*cking rock man - thanks

Is the honeymoon over with the Saturn 4 Ultra 16K? What faults does it have but despite said faults if there are is it a good printer for someone starting out in 3D printing?

>>96135711
>starting out in 3D printing
Try something like a Halot R6 instead.

>>96135711
I've had mine since release and still love it. I've seen a few posters like the one above saying their FEP ripped and leaked into the machine but I haven't experienced that.

Honestly the only thing I don't like is the round edge on the tray. Makes pouring messy and always needs a wipe.

>>96135821
>Canadian Creality webstore doesn't seem to list it.
>only 4k resolution

Know any other 3D printers that are even more idiot proof in higher resolution?
Is 14k all one needs anyways?

>>96135871
Actually just noticed that elegoo is having a big sale.
Should I seize the opportunity or wait?

>>96135871
Ahh yes, creality hates canada for some reason
Then I'd suggest the anycubic photon mono 4 10k, you can get it through amazon.
For starting you want as small and as cheap as possible without going into noname chinesium knockoff territory.
And really, for printing miniatures in resin you don't need or want the expense of a big printer, something the size and price of the R6 is absolute perfection for miniature printing.

>>96135913
>anycubic photon mono 4 10k
Is the Ultra version okay for a newbie? Thought I was going to spend more than usual.
What's a good wash+curing station that is idiot proof too?

Anyone know of a good human figure file I can open in blender and import some props I have to make an STL to print? Not something that has normal human proportions but also not overly stylized for some historical miniatures. I've seen some browser programs to make your own STL figure, but its all too stylized for D&D and I can't import my own files for the helmet and stuff.

>>96121450
If you've got a garage you should be fine. For reference I use a spare bedroom that's basically used as a storage room and I can't vent adequately either (I can't put holes in the wall and it's ground floor, so no leaving the window open). My setup is a free standing double wide wardrobe, I've gasketted the doors so it's mostly sealed and I've got an air purifier in the room (bedroom door is kept closed) that runs on a timer (home automation) for an hour once a day with a macro that will also make it run for an hour at the touch of a button. If you have a garage to keep such a setup in, your biggest problem will be temperature, depending on your climate.

>>96119890
Not Warhammer but similar scale: I did most of these tanks in FDM without putting in any effort to optimize a profile I usually use for terrain.

>>96137199
I also found tanks and vehicles to have good results in FDM from 28mm scale and up(15mm gets muddy but ok).
Did you print these in one piece or in parts and glued together? They look great.

>>96137199
>Not Warhammer but similar scale
Tbf the level of detail with the track rollers and suspension alone is pretty impressive. What layer height settings do you use?

>>96135927
>wash+curing station that is idiot proof
2 jars fpr iso, one to wash straight off the printer, the other for a second clean wash after rinsing them in water, 1 tupperware container for said rinse, after second iso wash fill with hot tap water to remove supports, tgen leave the minis (not tge supports, toss those) in the tub of water and put it on a sunny table or windowsill, tge sun is your cure station, even on an overcast day.

Just finished my first large FDM print, learned a bunch about supports and orientation for FDM in the process.

Does anyone know what happened to Sedivalle's normal marines?

>>96137193
This sounds like it doesn't work at all. What does an air purifier in a closed environment do, in your opinion?

>>96143216
There’s a guy on youtube who tested multiple air purifiers and basically unless you go for an industrial-grade solution, they are worthless. They would help with the smell from the acrylates, but even those small filters you place inside the printer are good enough for that.

>>96139448
Don’t touch that fdm shit with your bare hands. It shreds micro filaments that will permanently lodge themselves in your hands. Use gloves until you prime it or otherwise coat it with something.

>>96139448
1

>>96144091
2

>>96144100
3

>>96144106
4
Pretty happy with how it turned out.

>>96143591
only carbon or glass fiber filament

>>96139448
>>96144091
>>96144100
>>96144106
>>96144113
Nice, I didn't know it had internal storage space like that. Is there an Overlord version or other dropship variants?

>>96143591
You should be more worried about the synthetic fibers in contact with your skin 24 hours a day. That's what they don't tell you when people bring up internal body microplastic contamination and one of the few things modern hippys get right.

>>96144277
>>96143591
Ontop of that your hands shed skin constantly which naturally cycles out foreign bodies and if they are large enough they will be pushed out or have a barrier develop around them. You get a lot of non-plastic micro contaminates that lodge into your skin everyday that can even bypass the epidermis.

Should I spend $363 AUD on a Mars 4 Ultra or $600 AUD on a Mars 5 Ultra
I'm looking to
>print and paint models over a long time
>eventually start doing HWG and maybe some Warhammer Fantasy
I'm not a batch painter and take a long time when painting and so idk if I need the increased print speed of the 5

>>96144397
Also the Saturn 4 Ultra is $800 AUD, Saturn 4 is $729 AUD and Saturn 3 Ultra is $489 AUD to give a reference
I care about detail the most and so I'm not sure about the older Saturns

Oh actually I realised the Saturn 3 Ultra is pretty damn close to the mars 4 and Mars 5 pixel size except it's a rectangle

>>96144397
I'm trying to decide on one too, thinking of the mars 5 ultra, would like to hear some opinions

>>96144963
>>96144397
You main worries regarding this choice are
>print area
Almost everyone would benefit from the larger print area of the saturn. Not you you can print bigger shit, but also more shit. At a lower chance of failure, at that. The mars print area is pretty small, and if you overcrowd it, you get failures. This is something you will only understand if you have a printer of it’s size, I’m afraid.
>tilting mechanism
The new generation introduced this gimmick that makes your prints considerably faster while reducing the chance of failure (film releases horizontally instead of only just vertically). It’s pretty ingenious but it also makes it possible for you to flood your printer with resin as there’s a hole for the swivel.
>wireless capabilities and anti-aliasing
Only the ultras have this. You can try using AA on the normal mars/saturn but shit will get fucked, it only works via wireless. However, if you use a small layer height, this won’t matter unless you’re printing spheres. And printing wirelessly is a huge plus for me, I use it all the time.
>ease of use
The new printers are pretty much brain dead. I’m pretty sure you can’t fuck up unless you really want to.
>print quality
The only meaningful difference between all of these is that the Saturn 4 range will print sharper due to its better optical solution.
>maintenance and replacement parts
All 3d printer will need replacement screens and FEPs. The bigger the printer, the bigger the cost to replace. A saturn screen is considerably more expensive than a Mars screen. The Mars 5/Saturn 4 also have the tilting mechanism as an extra point of failure that might need replacing, so there’s that.
>support
Older printers can only get support and replacement parts for so long. The screens for the Mars 2 are already pretty damn rare and the Mars 3 will soon follow. If you buy a Mars 4/Saturn 3, you need to account for their age and that it might be difficult to find parts in the future.

>>96144277
I cut it open and designed the storage myself. I did find a hollow overlord but the creator didn't put hex slots in it, just a single shelf he glued metal too for magnetized bases, also left more tgan half of it empty and unused, so I'll be customizing that too.

How do I alleviate the issue of poor quality on the build plate side of prints?
Yes, I tilt all my models at 30 degrees. I've bumped exposure time to 3 seconds, it's about right temperature this time of year but it's still a problem.

>>96146558
Does your printer use ACF?

>>96146584
I'm running Anycubic Mono X6ks, I don't think it has ACF iirc, but I could be wrong.

>>96146558
use this for flat pieces only, like a base or a pillar, generally a good idea for the centreline of a mini etc https://www.rc87.blog/angle-calculator/

What resin are you using?
What printer?
Post your full settings

>>96150854
I'm running Anycubic Mono X 6Ks. Just opened fresh bottle of Sunlu's standard and it did mostly ok for the first print, though I think it's a bit softer than anycubic's standard I've used earlier.

>>96151852
Did you do an exposure test?
https://store.anycubic.com/blogs/resources/3d-printer-test-print
anycubic standard is very temperature dependent, softer when warm and generally prints better at warmer temps, no idea on sunlu's.

It's also been my experience with my anycubic photon mono 4 that build-plate-side parts of prints are a little blown out, but I've found that setting it up so that parts facing the build plate are the parts not on display
Combine orientation planning with effective use of supports in something like Lychee and you'll have more success with cleaner prints

>>96151939
>>96151939
I did do exposure test, no. 7 came out best so I set expoure time to 3s.
Maybe I need to stop using autosupports and start laying them more thickly?
I'm very mad about this because of how my prints aren't nearly as nice as what people post on the internet. I'm also probably anal retentive about imperfections like that tho.

>>96146267
So for a noob that just wants to print out top quality minis with the least amount of hassle what do you recommend? Saturn 16k? and their resin?

>>96143216
It gets rid of the smell pretty well (activated charcoal filter), as for VOCs I can't really say since I've no way to monitor the air quality. I suspect it works reasonably well with the charcoal filter since I don't print much, and it's run regularly for an extended period.

>>96152154
Read the thread.

>>96071199 (OP)
When Resin 3D printing, is there a certain amount of random variance between printing that can't be helped? Or will a printer with perfect settings print correct 100% of the time?

I have printed the same file 6 times, lots of different Warhammer bits on the same plate,
>1st time: Perfect.
>2nd time: 1 piece failed
>3rd time: Perfect
>4th time: Perfect
>5th time: An entire row either failed, or printed very funny
>6th time: Perfect

I am just unsure if this is to be expected, or if there is some tuning I can do. I am also pretty new and unexperienced, which is why I wanted to ask.

>>96152154
Either that or a GK3. Past the 4k generation, resolution isn’t the limiting factor to quality, though. It usually the light source itself making sharper prints. I don’t know if the 16k is a meaningful upgrade over the regular S4u.
>>96154327
Optimizing your calibration helps but there’s always some bullshit like the FEP going bad or overcrowding that will increase the chance of failure. And the files themselves might be prone to failure.

>>96154327
The settings can be perfect, if the resin is bad.. or the temperature is to cold, it might still fail.

>>96154423
How much crowding is over crowding? Have an example plate that could show me when it's too much?
>>96154467
Temperature could very much be it. Currently 8c / 46f where I am. How does it being cold affect the print exactly?

>>96154327
>Or will a printer with perfect settings print correct 100% of the time?
I've found when printing keyed pieces (ie; an arm with a peg meant to slot into a hole in a shoulder) that the dimensions on the keying never match up, always end up filing or nipping the pegs off, so now I only print whole miniatures and just do my posing/kitbashing file side.

>>96154633
>How does it being cold affect the print exactly?

Resin is less liquid/water-like. The plate going down does push the liquid resin out of the way.. then it has to flow back. It could be that due to it becoming colder, it can not flow back everywhere quick enough.

>over crowding

I never had issues with filling the plate. usually it ends up to be a full layer of support rafts on my plate, because i dont want to waste space. Might be bad for the FEP, but it does not affect the print results for me.

>that the dimensions on the keying never match up, always end up filing or nipping the pegs off,

Exposure issues?

Since size is often brought up. It matters.
I got a Mars 4 Ultra, and so far, i was quite happy and never had any issues with the plate size. I can print plenty of average human sized figures and also most tank STL files are separated into small enough pieces that it fits and i can print a Leman Russ sized vehicle in 2-3 plates.
But recently i was thinking about printing some Zone Mortalis terrain. Obviously an FDM printer might be ideal here, but i dont have one. And so i am stuck with printing 2 columns at a time.

>>96154633
In my experience, that is very cold. Any time I print below 70F things become a coin-flip, I can only imagine what would happen down at 50F. My best results are when it's 80F and up.

Different resins work better at different temps. The stuff I use states right on the bottle it shouldn't be used below 20c.

I recommend finding a way to at least heat your resin vat.

>>96154633
>Currently 8c / 46f where I am

Resin works best between 20 and 25°C.

>>96154327
Could be cold resin, could be old resin, could be resin needs stirring, could be fep issues, could be your lift speed is too aggressive, could be you don't have a wait before exposure time set and this particular print just happens to be borderline, could be that your LED is old and you haven't re-calibrated your exposure time in a while, could be your old printer has a large number of hours on it and the screen is starting to degrade.

>>96154633
Way too cold.

>Grab some stl
>Use the "ready to print" files
>One piece is hollow and ends up filled with liquid resin because they never put a drain
Thanks fuck I use transparent resin, had to drill two holes to remove the liquid.

>>96075591
shameless necrobump

>>96156019
Do you maybe have their full names? That would make it much easier?

>>96156055
uhh right, I don't really know, Rogue Trader era plague marine chaos renegades?
or if anyone has 2nd ed plague marines instead I'd also be very grateful

>>96156139
Here you go

https://litter.catbox.moe/fd9d0h6ouwkdwefa.7z

>>96156304
A+, man, thank you!

Anyone with a FDM printer able to give pointers? Using the same presets as before but now I'm getting these very pronounced bands.

>>96121312
my issue is I have a wife and two teenagers, searching obsessively isnt an option. so I'll just have to slowly slog my way thru it.

BUT

my issue is that I'm a semi-retarded oldfag who has to learn to use this Telegram thing first. screenshot is an example. is there a reliable guide to the program? I cannot seem to even get the search feature to work.

>what scans
what I'm looking for is new nids, eldar, or imperial knights.
my buddy is a school teacher and he's building a sororitas army over the summer

I feel like old WarmaHordes minis would make great D&D stuff (cryx style necromancers anyone?).

>>96158393
>my issue
>my issue
and apparently proofreading too...

>>96158325
what kind of machine? (gantry, coreX-Y, enclosed system)
also make and model?

I had lines like that with my ender3 pro.
the print head was loose, but it had some plastic melted onto the carriage, so the lines would only start to show after it was up to temp for a bit.

you might see if your head is loose?

>>96158441
Bambulab A1

Bet I'll go and test that.

>>96158518
The head is pretty sturdy and doesn't give when jostled.
":3

>>96158393
You search within one channel. You should search all of them instead.

>>96158325
What were your presets before?

>>96159801
Bambu's 0.08mm High Quality

picrel is with the same settings from February (printed from aft to bow vertically) and the difference is pretty clear.

I got a free 3D printer
Qidi Xplus. Looks like it's the first one.

Is it worth using it or is it so superseded it's prints will suck?

>>96155059
What about 40?

>>96153875
No

>>96159909
I would try it. Yes it is slow, but it is not the bed slinger type, so even old ones had good acceleration. Also the software side got better, so that helps a bunch, too.

Do you have a raspberry pi or your pc close to where you want to put it?
If yes, klipper is a software that is used by most of the new printers, it improves prints by calculating how some defects will appear because of resonances and stuff and do compensation in advance. Your printer hardware is probably too old to run that, but you can flash a firmware that makes the printer just a stupid order taking machine, and a stronger pc can do the klipper part. Though that would mean that it can't print alone anymore and your pc or pi has to run the whole print time with it.

So I would just try it by itself first for some terrain and see if its good enough for you after some primer. Nothing beats free, and for me, starting with an old second hand machine made me learn how to fix problems without risking much before I bought myself a better new one.

>>96160176
>Do you have a raspberry pi or your pc close to where you want to put it?

No, will have it in my garage, not keeping it in the apartment. But I have a spare laptop I can use for it.
I do have a decent enough PC (4070 Super) would I be able to do the hard stuff in it, then effectively use the laptop to send the data to the printer?

>>96159870
Could be a nozzle clog or the hobbed gear is full of ground up plastic.

I'll buy a Bambu Lab A1 during black Friday. Which of the additional/add-on parts they sell are useful? I don't plan to print abs, so the enclosure is not necessary I think?

Hello Lads
Has anyone seen these scans of the old metal tomb banshee models? They clearly exist because this guy is showing them off, but I can't find them on any of the telly groups - What do I search for?

>>96160370
I don't use bambus, but more nozzles are never wrong. From what I heard over the years they are plug and play, so if you have a clog you can just swap them and clean the clogged on afterwards without pressure.

Maybe another plate, sometimes its better to just slowly let a print cooldown so there is as little warping as possible, so you can just swap them.

How to print bases?
i keep getting weird shit, blowouts on the rim edge, bowing in the middle

>>96161217
Thanks. Thats two useful infos i guess. I'll put it on a note for when the time comes.

>>96158947
That was a test. I searched "persian" in a channel with a post that definitely contained that word and got no hits.

When I search some terms they come up but others never show any hits, even when I know the results should be present.

>>96155039
Where I live the temp is 90F+ all year but the humidity is super high. How do resin printers handle humidity high enough that water condenses on human skin?

This will tell me if I can put the printer station in a shed or garage to thwart the smell instead of a carbon filter or window vent

Let's kick the thread up. More Wilph, por favor? I have his Terminators, all three types, and seek any of his power armor designs apart from reinforced Mark IV. With his catalogue all but nuked, I don't even know what other stuff he's done for Heresy, so anything else would be appreciated.

>>96161978
Show some prints.

>>96161422
I cannot reccomend enough waiting for their black friday sale. You can get most stuff like printers for up to half off depending on the model.

>>96158393
i've found knight scans, but i'm a loser who relies too much on presupported stuff. but if you are still looking drop me a (you) and i'll give you a hint.

an ideal find would be a questoris and/or cerastus kit that's broken up in .lys pieces so i can add extra supports (i know they'll be needed) without having to meticulously do ALL of them myself, i'm kind of in a similar boat as you. but the time spent prepping will make it so i can spend more time playing later.

>>96163177
exhibit A: tested it out and did not have enough supports on a couple leg bits. the file is presupported but just as an STL, so if i add more supports i have to re-raft it and really fuck with each part.

the money saved is worth the time spent but it's just part of the hobby.

>>96160632
retro death screaming ladies

>>96163222
>>96163177
the shame of it is I don't have a resin printer yet, I'm still doing preliminary research (good brands versus lemons, how sensitive is the missus or the family to the smell, >>96161832 so I can see if I can keep it in the garage, etc.)and waiting on sales.

so no hints now, though I'll be kicking myself later when I do have a resin machine.

I printed the terrain piece in pic related on my K2, the sisters are the initial force my friend assembled. I thought it'd make a good display piece for them on a shelf. he apparently just had his first victory with them a couple days ago, apparently a close game versus IG.

did you break a couple pieces free in your photo? I see supports with no pieces.

also, what machine do you run?

>>96165105
nah, supports printed but the part failed. when i see that happen 99% of the time its because i didn't support it well enough

i'm using a saturn 3 ultra. i used it stock but then a buddy who also has one convinced me to get this "wham bam" magnetic build plate. kinda pricey but it's sick for getting parts off more easily

anyone have eldar heads from puppetswar and is willing to share

>>96165105
To test the smell, you could just buy a bottle of resin and have a bit of it in a plastic vat in the dark, while leaving your spouse in the dark. If she mentions the smell, you have a problem anyways.

It will be a bit stronger than most machines smell, but most of them are not air tight, and the process agitates the liquid for hours, so it spreads more than you would think.

>>96167969
Good test, little bit kinky, but it should work.

Follow on question.
Does the smell linger?
If so how long? Does it fall off or does it stick around and fade slowly?

>>96169512
If the room is well ventilated, its gone in half an hour.
But it depends a lot on the resin you use, you should keep that in mind. Some have a faint smell to them, some really reek when you open the bottle.

I just asked my girlfriend what she thinks about the printers smell in general, and if she noticed it in a bad way when she moved in. She said right now (i'm actually printing 24/7 because of a terrain project), she barely notices it, but initially she noticed it, but it was not that bad. But i use water washable resin currently because of its cheap price, and it smells considerably less than other resins i had in the past.
My printer sits in a small storage room next to an open window, so its not inside the living- or bedroom.

>>96169512
saturn 3 ultra anon from above

to add to >>96169574:

if you have a room with little to no traffic and good ventilation, you shouldn't really need anything. honestly, you'll smell the alcohol from your wash station more than the resin.

BUT. if you're worried about it for the sake of wife/kids/pets, or if you just want the extra protection cuz the printer will live in a room that gets traffic. i recommend getting a grow tent and an exhaust fan. any cheap one should do, even a decent one can be had for less than 100 USD. they have ports for an exhaust fan to send all the fumes out.

i've found this also really helps with heat management if you want to use the printer during winter months. helps ensure the resin stays at a balmy 25C+ without the need for a fermentation belt or anything.

>>96170059
>25c
It sometimes gets colder than that in the dead of winter. I live in Southern coastal Texas temps average higher than that for 8-11 months out of the year.

My question earlier was about relative humidity. We sit at 100% relative humidity for all but a handful of days a year.

Would this preclude putting the printer in either my un-sealed shed, or my similarly unsealed garage?

My first thought was building a cabinet in the guest room and if required, running a vent to the window for the smell. Another was rigging a carbon filter to the cabinet.

I'd spend a lot of cash on HVAC with an open window.

Are there any sculpts for old school "gorget" style MKII torsos/heads? I have found plenty of modern sculpts but nothing like pic rel. It sucks because it is my favorite armour mark behind MKV

>>96171244
25 is the recommendation. You can print at 15 degree too. Here, today it was 22 degrees, and it will drop to 13-15 during the night. I let my printer run next to the open window, and I'm certain the print will be done successfully in the morning. A bit "slower" settings can compensate for temperature.
Regarding the humidity, I would say as long as there is no moisture building up inside the printer itself, it should be fine.

>>96171301
Helforged did some fairly old school marine sets for all armour marks

>>96171316
>a summer day the temp of a well air-conditioned room
I assume that's an outside temp
You have a great deal of envy from me
It's a very mild summer day here at 32c according to my weather app (office job can't check directly)

The condensation question is my issue, it's quite possibly a thing that could happen.

>>96171434
i should think a grow tent will help with that as well. and if that doesn't do the job by itself, throw a small dehumidifer in there with it. i got a 4x2 grow tent off amazon for 80 bucks (this was a couple years ago, ymmv). i put it on its side and it fits everything for my printer - the printer itself, the exhaust fan, and both my wash AND curing stations. then i just have a crappy walmart table next to it for keeping all my tools and lunch trays for transferring parts around to the different steps of the post-processing

>>96171326
Did he? I have found this which looks kind of like the og MKII, but it's a NL theme sculpt. Nothing I else I can find with the channels I have access too that post his old files

>>96071611
I have the regular S4 Ultra and it is basically fucking magic. This thing can print a whole squad with higher detail than plastic casting in an hour. It prints FAST. And very high detail.

I've had zero issues with it printing both tiny things and very large things. It is a low effort printer. As the other poster here mentioned, just make sure you use it's little bib when removing the plate so nothing drips into the mechanism. My tip is once the print is done go to tools on the display and auto home the machine so the plate is at the top and easier to manipulate.

You'll see youtubers sooking about the plate being "hard to clean" but I assume these people are mentally retarded or something because it's a piece of piss. Great build plate, very robust.

One thing to know upgrading from a smaller printer is that the vat is huge, it can hold most of a 1000g bottle of resin.

My S4U was effectively plug and play. It's phenomenal and I cannot recommend it enough.

Pic related, some infantry I printed with it.

>>96071776
I have been using mine for over a year and have never had any issues with the tilt mechanism. I think people who have issues with this stuff are retards who do stuff like leaving things in the way of it when it moves.

Pay attention to the max fill line on the vat though.

Again like all things 3D printing if you follow instructions you'll be fine. I think 99% of people who have these issues are people who are braindead low IQ humans who need everything to be robust and child compatible like an iPhone or a Fischer-Price toy.

>>96135711
>is it a good printer for someone starting out in 3D printing?
I think it's a very good printer for someone starting out. The self levelling makes it very user friendly and it is incredibly forgiving because of it's tilt mechanism, in a way that other printers are not. You can get away with a lot more poor positioning and so on because of it.

>>96135829
>I've seen a few posters like the one above saying their FEP ripped and leaked into the machine
People who do this shit have left stuff on the build plate or left stuff in the vat, and then had the pressure mechanism of the build plate push whatever was left in the vat or on the plate into the FEP and punctured it. In short - user error.

>Honestly the only thing I don't like is the round edge on the tray. Makes pouring messy and always needs a wipe.
At least it has a pour spout but yeah I mean it does always need a little wipe but you're wiping it down anyway if you're cleaning out the vat.

I will shill this printer for hours the S4U is peak. Pic related, printed an Orca dropship with mine like it was nothing.

>>96172047

>>96172047
>>96172056
your painting is generic and soulless like your faction. take it back to /wip/ where it belongs

>>96172282
Cheers bro it's a continuation of my first airbrush faction, not super keen on restarting a paint scheme midway through.

It's not a WIP since it's done tho cockhead.

>like your faction
Yeah bro I only play Tau hahaha fucking loser

Anyway post your shit paint jobs.

>>96172056
I don't know what game this is but the paint job is really cool.

>>96172310
>reddit spacing
>making demands
yeah nah fuck off retard
>>96172447
nice samefag

>>96172047
>People who do this shit have left stuff on the build plate or left stuff in the vat, and then had the pressure mechanism of the build plate push whatever was left in the vat or on the plate into the FEP and punctured it
I don’t think this is even possible on a Mars 5, which is what a lot of people complain about. The machine freaks out if there is an extra milligram of shit on the build plate. Sometimes even liquid resin on its pillars thingy makes the sensor sound the alarm. Same with shit in the vat.

>>96172614
Pure, unadulterated newfaggotry.

does anyone know where I can find like, more shades of grey PLA at cheap prices? I'm doing some multi-color stuff that I wanted to do in greyscale but if I look in the sunlu store they have maybe like 2 shades when I'm looking for 5 or more.

Paramount 3D has a great selection and I'm almost tempted to bite the bullet and go for it but at $24 per kg its on the higher end in price. Granted, having all these rolls in different shades will last a lot for one person, but I'm also exploring bulk printing, so finding a way to shave up to 50% of material cost but also find all these shades of grey would be great.

I'd be interested in the same question for greens and browns.

>>96172665
I haven't tried maybe the saturn does the same, I am not retarded enough to find out though.