Thread 96823068

Work in Progress, "War... War never changes." Edition

>Full-on /WIP/ OP Links Pastebin
https://pastebin.com/BE42AEcD

>WIP Tutorial Images Mega
https://mega.nz/#F!TvQFCaLb!w8WZKCcOsTRasxrI0JWezw

>Saint Duncan's "Six Things I Wish I Knew When I Started Painting"
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ufP8ka3KGno

>Saint Duncan also explains thinning your paints
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wxWgsqSf74s

>Paint thinning 102
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sBDVPoNXyVI

>4 EASY Chipping Tricks For Beginners
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ku4comhKHJM

>Decal Like a Pro
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SYKLiEW7p9c

>How to Edge Highlight
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KoRbYuAfbEk

>How to use contrast style paints
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IhholrozptI

>How to Paint with Tremors
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oqp76vAJu9g

>Airbrush Priming and Thinning
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jkntrSBvXxE
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IGjBQzoukFg
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=00JVUxABe44
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AEqT_R41JX8

>Who's Johnny, she'd say, and smile in her special way
https://1d6chan.miraheze.org/wiki/Johnny

>Previous Threads:
>>96796145
>>96772989
>>96750857
>>96732099

>2025
aHR0cHM6Ly9mb3Jtcy5nbGUvemZxWjNGRDZIOXF2bVF5WDc=

I'm reposting and you can't stop me.

I have to say MESBG minis are very comfy to paint. Anyone else enjoying old sculpts?

>>96823046
That's what I am doing
Just thought about picking up one of those booklets from AK and seeing if I can actually learn things
>>96823055
I don't think I am trying to improve that much?
I mostly see it as a hobby and I am good enough that everyone in my life is amazed, but of course I am aware of just how often I fuck up and how much better people can be
But I do keep trying out new things
Different scales, oil painting, enamel painting, scratch building, 3D printing

>>96823136
>Just thought about picking up one of those booklets from AK and seeing if I can actually learn things
That's a good idea!

>>96823091
I think there is more to the hobby than doing the perfect blend, but I guess I should just collect more real life knowledge on how things look irl/how light interacts with stuff

Can I get a quick overview on the kits for 30k/40k CSM tanks? I'm planning to get a vindicator, a predator and a rhino, and I am wondering if I should go with the HH or the regular 40k kits. I do like the blockier look of the 40k kits better for the predator, and I like the big dumb dozer blade on the vindicator, but I feel I could go either way on the rhino. What am I looking at when it comes to accessory sprues? Does the HK missile come on any of those kits? I was hoping to use one of those as a stand in for the havoc launcher on the predator. What about pintle mounted guns and stuff? How many are there on the deimos rhino kit?

Also reposting boner.

>>96823140
>>96823136
>one of those booklets from AK
aHR0cHM6Ly9tZWdhLm56L2ZvbGRlci8zemhSa1FLWiNnNm5QN2RnVHdsR0JZRG5qVzBfQ2Fn

>>96823224
Thank you

>>96823224
I have 2 of those books, and I think they're really good, but they're also overwhelming with the detail in them and I don't think I've even come close to squeezing all I can get out of the 2 that I already have.
They're good to be sure though and I would recommend at least the FAQ ones that I have.

>>96823185
Just so you know they only gave rhino and land raider to EC which is probably a sign that CSM will lose predator and vindicator in 11th.

>>96823185
I have a rhino and predator which are just a regular SM rhinos with upgrade sprues that have spikes, chaos symbols and some other shit, picrel is the rhino one. Predator has a sprue(or maybe it was 2?) for the turret and side guns. The kits kinda show their age so be prepared to do some gap filling and some bits not being perfect fits. I don't play tabletop so I have no idea what HK missile is lol.

>>96823185
i know their webstie is utter garbage but doesn't GW have sprue shots on every product?

>>96823620
>sprue shots on every product
Some have them, others do not. Chaos Rhino has pictures of all the sprues but Predator and Vindicator have none. Not sure what's up with that but oh well, GW.

>>96823638
>https://elementgames.co.uk/games-workshop/warhammer-40k/chaos-space-marines/chaos-space-marine-predator
>https://elementgames.co.uk/games-workshop/warhammer-40k/chaos-space-marines/chaos-space-marine-vindicator

>>96823690
Well, there you have it.

>>96823409
>>96823607
>>96823620
csm bit sprues have always been a thing i but now that there is no more forge world how does one even buy chapter specific vehicle accessories anymore
or do they sell those the new site is so confusing you can barely browse it properly let alone find what you are looking for

>>96823721
i mean, you shouldn't browse their site anyways unless for very specific purposes, you should not buy from them anyways unles 'webstore only'

>csm bit sprues have always been a thing i but now that there is no more forge world how does one even buy chapter specific vehicle accessories anymore
i guess most people print this kind of stuff nowadays so the demand has diminished if they ever had any interest of doing them anyways

>>96823753
>unles 'webstore only'
3D printing is a thing, giving money to the corporation that hates you and has said as much, is inexcusable.

>>96823185
There's a 40k vindicator

>>96823690
>>96823815
Thanks anons, this was very helpful. Any comments on the kits themselves? I know the 40k ones are older a bit harder to put together.

>>96823812
maybe, maybe not, some people actually like the models
i only buy seconhand or recasts anyways, 3d models are subpar with very few exceptions

>>96823891
i wouldn't say hard, they have humongous gaps tho
can't comment on the 30k ones, last i built was a plastic predator baal a decade ago

>>96823975
>3d models are subpar
Lol! That's some funny cope there buddy, you know 3d printing makes superior detail, just look at gw plastic capes vs resin capes.

>>96823975
>3d models are subpar with very few exceptions
You mean what's on the market, or in general?
t. 3dfag

>>96821691
Black templar contrast over light blue, senpai. Slap chop my beloved.
>>96823185
>>96823891
The 40k chaos sprue comes with enough chaos bits for 2 vehicles, pintle weapons and missile launcher with chaos trim you dont get with the deimos which is nice. But I still think the 30k rhino is worth the build and spare whatever chaos bits you get elsewhere, unless you definitely want the chaos bits from the 40k sprue. Datasheet wise neither kit even comes with enough pintle mounts to fit the whole loadout (at least when I did a 40k World Eaters one) so you'll need extra parts and kitbash anyway if you want full WYSIWYG.

>>96815574
done with this one
I think I used the wrong wash, it muted too many details
Oh well next one

>>96824022
>cope
you keep using that word, i don't think it means what you think it means

i have no stake here, i want models and don't care where they come from if they are good, if they come from a printer so be it

you talk about capes, do post examples, i don't know what you mean
also post an example of a print as good as this >>96761551 because i have never seen a 3d with detail as sharp as that (here or elsewhere)


>>96824050
if by 'not on the market' you mean bootleg scans, yes i meant to include those

however i was mostly hinting at how most 3rd party 3d designers have no idea on how to design models for a boardgame that need to be painted instead of a videogame asset

>>96824531
>i have never seen a 3d with detail as sharp as that
I have to give you that much, no 3D print of mine has ever needed as much greenstuff to fill gaps and resculpt detail as anon had to put into that project, but I think that is the opposite of what you thought you were pointing out.

>>96824531
NTA but here you can see millimetre thin front tabard, back tabard, sword sheath and a cape, all separate with no chunking to accomodate the necessities of plastic molding, all printed as one piece, no bits.
GW will never achieve fine detail like this.

>>96824531
>how to design models for a boardgame that need to be painted instead of a videogame asset
Oh I've seen this one before! Now you're going to launch into a gaslighting explanation of how finer details is actually worse and that whatever level of detail GW is currently producing is the correct amount of detail.

Can you take this to /3dpg/ please? Thanks.

>>96824623
yet you still haven't commented on the matter at hand wich is the sharpness of detail, not the slopiness of the recaster, but you could just say you don't want to have a discussion in good faith and be done with it

not every opinion is an attack on your decisions even if you want to feel like it for some reason

>>96824654
i see, that is a good example of a good print

>all separate with no chunking to accomodate the necessities of plastic molding
seams will always be a downside of molds but that's the price of mass production

>one piece, no bits.
i get you, but this is not always a plus, being able to easily kitbash and pose things without knowing cad beats having no seams anywhere imo

>GW will never achieve fine detail like this.
gw is shit at molding, they don't even try becuase they don't have the market pressure to
look at a bandai kit if you don't know what i mean

semi-related but, how big is that and what resolution was it printed at?, are lines noticeable at all on the round thing on the top for example? or is the primer enough to cover whatever microscopic lines are there?

>>96824665
no that would be stupid and pointless to the discussion, i'm talking about style, paintability and readability, some of wich is objective some is not
not everyone can (or want to bother) paint details a fraction of a milimeter big

>GW is currently producing is the correct amount of detail.
>GW
>correct
that is even more laughable, you keep pretending i was trying to defend gw or something, there are more manufacturers with better models, be it plastic or not

sorry for apparently siderailing the thread
i just wanted to know if i can still buy fancy doors for my rhinos etc from official shop
it used to be a really big thing

>>96824764
>not everyone can (or want to bother) paint details a fraction of a milimeter big
And there it is, exactly the "argument" I predicted.

>>96824790
>from official shop
You literally just said that it doesn't matter where the item comes from and now you're right back to "needs to be GW"

isn't 3d printing models in large chunks not taking advantage of the printer's capabilities? you can split complicated parts off so they're easier to paint and even make parts press fit.

>>96824894
And some people choose to do that, but with 3D printing you an do whole print after digital kitbashing or bits and sub assemblies as you desire, you're not forced into either.

>>96824894
>not taking advantage of the printer's capabilities?
Arguably that is exactly what it is doing, only a 3D printer can do something like anons pic here >>96824654 as a single piece, you cannot get that with molds.

>>96824889
nope this would be my third post this thread
i remember when the specialist games website started and ended and i remember when forge world was the hot shit and now im having trougle browsing the current bullshit iteration because from what ive gathered its made completely for mobile users

>>96824919
what advantage does monolithic construction give other than saving you the trouble of having to glue it together?

>>96824869
that's not an argument, is an objective statement of fact, can you even read?

>>96825001
That is the furthest possible thing from "objective fact" that is a Subjective Anecdote.

>>96824994
>what advantage (except the main advantage)
You answered your own question.
It also wasn't about advantages, it was about the physical capability for the production method to do things that molding cannot do which directly affects capacity for detail.

>>96824994
if it fails you dont lose the whole thing

>>96824790
They have fancy round doors for the Horus Heresy rhinos, but as for the big rectangular doors for the regular ones no, they don't seem to sell those anymore.

>>96825039
>some people like a, some people like b
>nooo nobody likes b that's not objective you have to prove it

yeah, ok, whatever, you do you

>>96825062
isn't that a disadvantage?

>>96825059
the time you save in assembly is trivial so if that's the main advantage I don't see the point. on the other hand being able to have a gun be a separate part from the arm or even the entire body gives clear advantages when painting and practically allows for more details.

>>96825221
>so if that's the main advantage
Anon just said that the capacity to do things like that is a demonstration of the objective fact that 3D printers can produce higher levels of detail.
I love how well-poisoners like you will hyper focus on a single aspect of a comment and completely ignore everything else said.
Barring that you'll hyper focus on the most recent comment and ignore points made prior in the very same argument

>>96825184
Yeah that's an anecdote.
Find me anyone other than yourself right now claiming that they prefer low detail chunky models, because I've never encountered this outside of this exact argument where shills imagine it as a point against printers.

>>96825239
>like that is a demonstration of the objective fact that 3D printers can produce higher levels of detail.
but it's not, even if they are, it's just a demostration of being able to do things without seams with doesn't directly imply more detail

>>96825239
splitting your print into pieces doesn't have anything to do with how much detail it has

>>96825221
>isn't that a disadvantage?
for example yesterday morning when i went to get my mail there was a work crew who told me my power will be cut for 4 hours today at some point and there was no negotiating with them
now imagine you were printing stuff and some of it was ready already and some were cut short by the electric company, if they were one piece you would have lost the whole 3 day print

>>96825283
>with doesn't directly imply more detail
How do you not see that that is exactly what it is? Seams alone is an issue which forces a sculptor to compromise their designs which is a reduction or change to the detail of the model based on physical inability to produce it.
3D printers have no such limitation, therefore they can produce more and better details limited only by the sculptors skill and the settings you manually put into your slicer, 10k printers can do detail on a level that is not possible for the unaided human eye to distinguish, plastic molding has hard limits to thicknesses and enclosed gaps that fall far short of human visual limits.

>>96825320
>3 day print
That's FDM, not resin. 10k HD 32mm scale minis take about 4 hours or so tops and many printers can be resumed after a power loss anyway.

>>96825250
> other than yourself
does richard gray count?
> I also prefer things that are not very detailed so I can paint whatever details on that I want
> I get annoyed about on a lot of the new models because they're so heavily detailed and [...] take a lot longer
https://youtu.be/cL8SuSq4LOw?si=kHM9GiZbXCCMVkEr&t=3039


> shills imagine it as a point against printers.
you are still fighting ghosts, i'm not again against printers, i even have and fdm one, i just don't think they are on par (yet)
and i'm not defeding gw, fuck them and their models

so let's try again, can you get with a 3dprint the sharpness you can get with a resin model like the dragon above or not? because the other's anon model doesn't have sharp detail (by design) so it's not an example for that

>>96825391
Okay, that's one guy who is on a paid youtube channel shilling GW painting competitions.
>Printers aren't good enough, my FDM is proof!
Bad faith argument. Exactly this argument was made by a GW staffer in the last decade in an interview where when asked about 3D printing responded "I've seen 3D printers and they just aren't there yet, it'll be many decades before they're even close"
Again in reference to FDM, quietly refusing to acknowledge the existence of resin and was proven wrong by the physical realities of resin within a year or two of that comment.
Wait, not an interview, this was a prepared speech he gave to his board of directors about why 3D printing was nothing to be concerned about and that Citadel should not get into 3D printing themselves.

>>96825391
>can you get with a 3dprint the sharpness you can get with a resin model like the dragon above or not?
Yes you fucking moron, if you were even remotely familiar with resin printing you'd know this already, you can get details so fine and fragile that your paintbrush will shatter them if you're too agressive.

how about put this whole 3D printing thing to rest and forget it
>printing in pieces you can minimize the detail loss and supports by printing in pieces
>printing in pieces you can fit more said models onto youre printer
>printing in pieces there is ress risk of breaking fine detail
>printing overall can make you feel like abig man who argues about it on painting general

>>96825391
Resin-based 3D printing, such as stereolithography (SLA) and digital light processing (DLP), operates at resolutions that can reach down to 25 microns, providing ultra-smooth finishes with intricate designs. This level of detail is not achievable with injection molding, which is better suited for high-volume production but lacks the flexibility and customization options of 3D printing.

Retard question, but is it a bad idea to place a box with freshly primed minis on top of a radiator to make them dry faster? Like, will it negatively affect the texture of the primer or something?

>>96825391
You know how to tell that 3d printing has superior details to GW traditional molding processes?
3 years ago forgeworld started using 3d printed masters to make their molds with and they did it without ever turning on the antialiasing feature, their sculpts started shipping with not just mold lines and bubbles but PRINT LINES as well.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1wF_eLoK9PA

>>96825320
yes that's why I said it's a disadvantage of printing in one piece.

>>96825529
read the technical data for the primer it will say what the optimal conditions for curing are.

>>96825529
usually i put them on top of my computer case top exhaust straight away
you wont ruin them unless dealing with extreme temperatures

What's the strongest paint stripper for metal minis? I've used spirits and tried greenstuffworld's paint stripper but none have been able to get rid of everything. The GSW stripper wasn't even able to strip two minis primed with Vallejo's brush primer.

>>96825642
grocery store old school hobby special: hand sanitizer
hardware store regular: IPA

>>96825671
I'm not English or American, what does IPA stand for besides Indian pale ale?

>>96825642
>What's the strongest paint stripper for metal minis?
Can you get pure methylene chloride? What about a commercial paint stripper like Bix with that as one of its ingredients?

You can probably save some money by trying the purest concentration of acetone you can get your hands on.

>>96825678
isopropyl alcohol.
Though for metal minis the answer is acetone or lacquer thinner.

>>96824654
Why is it important it's in one piece? Also,
>sword inbetween ass and cape
Even worse than GW type of detail. No one will ever see that sword.

>>96825671
>IPA

I start to consider this thing a literal gift from Heavens. I use it to clean tools, synthetic brushes (don't want to risk damage natural ones), remove paints, glue, oils, etc. Keep it in small spray bottle from some perfumes at my desk and use it regularly. I have yet to run into something that isopropanol can't clean. AND it also evaporate quickly and thus is harmless to the plastic.

>>96825419
>Printers aren't good enough, my FDM is proof!
again stop pretending i say whatever you would like to hear, no, fdm is nothing compared to dlp or sla printing, i'm not refusing to acknowledge anything

>Wait, not an interview, this was a prepared speech he gave to his board of directors about why 3D printing was nothing to be concerned about and that Citadel should not get into 3D printing themselves.
baffling

>>96825429
post.a.fucking.example.

>>96825485
is this an ia response?
you are talking about xy resolution, what about z?

>>96825678
isopropil alcohol

>>96825642
1. media blasting
2. stuff that causes cancer like mek
3. lacquer thinner which contains 2 but diluted
4. acetone

I would start with acetone since it's mostly non-toxic. put the parts in a jar with a lid so it won't evaporate.

>>96825642
>metal
Acetone, seriously hoping the anons suggesting IPA are memeing.

>>96825753
>I start to consider this thing a literal gift from Heavens
used to order it online for years until one day we started talking with my hardware store clerk when the online sales were banned from my country and he said they just started selling it in 10 liter cans
and it was cheap too, fuck yeah dude

i mean why would anyone buy acetone unless you were also planning to make putty from your spare sprues
iso strips plastic, pewter, metal ,resin and even finecast (granted it turns finecast into rubber after 45 minutes) but it hardens up again in 2 weeks

>>96826076
>why would anyone buy something that can clean up paint, glue, epoxy, and oil while being relatively non-toxic and safe to dump down the drain

>>96826214
Acetone is not harmless, you shouldn't really breathe it. I know, I have experience from working at chem lab.

>>96826330
I guess I'm going to die then since I use it for degreasing every day.

>>96826330
I agree with you, but proper ventiliation and PPE is easy. A lot easier than cycles of IPA dunking and toothbrush scrubbing. Just put it in a glass jar and screw the lid on.

>>96825755
Goalpost moving and bad faith arguments.
All your complaints have been proven wrong, you very clearly just have a problem with 3D printing on a conceptual level.

>/wip/ - sperging about chemicals and 3D printing
POST
MINIS

>>96826373
gonna take this chance to repost my dino riders :^)

>>96826381
Thank you, anon. Very nice raptors!

I haven't reposted in this thread yet I guess.

>>96826076
To clean my airbrush, especially after using lacquer paints (cellulose thinner works to, it's just that acetone is what was on the shelf last time I went to the store for a new can).

>>96826214
you should not be dumping any of these down the drain anyway, every city has a place place where you can drop off harazdous materials for free
airbrush enthusiast are so strict about their seals so imagine what this stuff does to your plumbing
t. käytetty is finnish for used

>>96826364
still no pics, you have nothing to offer other than pretending

>>96826373
no wip only sperg

acetone is perfectly safe to handle and use, especially in the quantities we're talking about for this hobby. if it irritates your skin just wear gloves but this obsession with dangerous fumes is really pathetic. i'm not sure how some of you manage to leave the house without having a panic attack

>>96826522
bold assumption that I can leave the house without having a panic attack

>>96826522
>leave the house without having a panic attack
some don't, it really shows

>>96826522
>this obsession with dangerous fumes
zoomers will have a very very hard life ahead of them and they will make it all our problem

>we're now moving to the great health hazards debate
shut the fuck up
please

>>96826643
its -10c outside im 22 beers in and its 2am in the morning
mind if i take a little nap before contributing any more

>>96826522
Most people don't realise your body makes acetone. And that absorption through skin it exceptionally minimal short of soaking your whole body in it for hours. If still paranoid though and just using for paint stripping you can get nail polish remover for cheap from any supermarket which is like 2% acetone and will strip models fine, though may need a light brushing.

>>96826584
They will bitch about the dangers of chemical fumes and then go happily walk next to a main road not realising the sort of shit they are inhaling. Same dipshits who think using acrylic paints in an airbrush will give you cancer unless you use a ventilated spraybooth and respirator.

>>96826465
Sure thing james.

>>96826732
hand sanitizer is 70-95% alcohol and was used to strip models back in the day long long ago
if 2% scented acetone nail polish remover was a thing we would now remember it instead but it was not

>>96826441
'Kay, titty.

>>96826732
>spraying anything without ventilation
I swear to god 90% of the "advice" I see in this thread is just cope for being lazy.
>I don't need to wash my plastic before painting it
>I don't need to paint over my primer it's already the color I want
>I don't need to paint the whole model the black primer will look like shadow
>who cares if the left side of the gun isn't painted no one will be able to see it
>I can't open a window when I'm painting it's too cold outside

>>96826773
Ethanol based products is still widely available for stripping and works, but generally isn't as reactive as acetone based. Which means more scrubbing required. Pretty sure that regular nail polish remover has been around for ages but people just never used it since it wasn't until the YT era that general hobby knowledge started to really disseminate. Otherwise I am unsure how bitches would be getting this nail polish off back in the day.

Today’s progress.
Trying to finish my combat patrol before other stuff arrived today - nearly got it done. Just some touching up of the blue and red base layers then highlighting of the blue and spiritseer needed and I’m done.

>>96826820
Part of the aforementioned other stuff - built this today (china cast). Fucking pain to build but very happy with the quality of the cast.

>>96826828
Forgot pic

>>96826812
> Which means more scrubbing required
at the end of the day you have to scrub them few times no matter what you use, 20 year old paint and 4-5 coats of primer in between you cannot really tell the difference
you only get your bathroom sink and your old toothbrush dirty

HOW THE FUCK ARE WE STILL TALKING ABOUT THIS

>>96826914
dont jinx it
it just stopped literally a minute ago

>>96826873
Scrubbing is generally always required to some degree. But there is a distinct difference between how caustic acetone is compared to ethanol. Mostly comes down to how it seems into the surface. Acetone based can be pretty quick, where as Ethanol can take significantly longer in comparison.

>>96826845
unbend that weapon

Plastic models:
>soak in isopropyl alcohol 90%+ for 5 minutes
>take out, scrub with toothbrush, rinsing toothbrush frequently and wiping on paper towel to keep in clean rather than smudging gooey paint around
>do this for a minute or 2 until you stop making progress, put model back in IPA for a couple more minutes
>repeat until as stripped as you want - might need to pick some hard to reach spots out with a toothpick or something similar

Resin:
>similar to plastic, but soak it for less time and do more rounds of scrubbing because the isopropyl alcohol can soften the resin
>probably want to leave the resin for a day or 2, but most likely optional, just to let any IPA that soaked into the resin to flash off

Metal:
>Use the strongest solvent you have short of literal acids
>simple green < IPA < Acetone < lacquer thinner
>Use acetone or lacquer thinner. Put it in a glass jar, soak it for a few minutes, shake the jar a few times, all the paint should just come off on it's own after a few minutes.
>Try and have ventilation for those options, but you won't die, and you won't have any large amount of exposure anyway

There. This is all anybody needs to know about thinning. Now move on.

>>96826995
does lacquer thinner work on acrylics? i thought it was just for oil paints

>>96827089
it's mostly acetone with added xylene and toluene so it will work on almost everything

>>96827128
fascinating, i just always assumed it was some sort of oil based solvent that wouldn't do anything to acrylic and never looked into it. might have to pick some up next time im at the hardware store. how does it go with general cleaning, is it worse than straight acetone for fucking up plastics and finishes?

>>96827089
Is this a joke to you?

>>96827144
it's more toxic than straight acetone so I wouldn't use it for general clean up. stick to using it with paint.

>>96826373
Here, my first Word Bearer (though I painted for years casually).
Not much difference with what I posted in the earlier thread but hey, trying to help fighting useless topics.

>>96826381
They're so gorgeous, I'm so fucking jealous, great work.

>>96823185
So clean and smooth

>>96827144
its made from wood and or oil and you use it to thin paints
dont clean anything general with it because its kinda shit end of the cheapest solvents curve if there ever was one
that said i could use a hand tarring a boat next spring

This is why you use lacquer thinner to strip metal minis if you can. Less than 5 minutes total, and if I had used a jar to slosh around I wouldn't have to scrub it at all.
I didn't realize the mini had a plastic head on it, it is now gooey and sticky and I'll have to replace it - don't use on plastic or resin it will instantly melt them.
I normally use a funnel with this because the surface tension is screwy but whatever, just ignore the spill. DON'T use it on cutting mats or anything other than wood metal or concrete, it will melt through any synthetic materials including the paint on my washing machine. It also melted through my nitrile glove while doing this.

>>96827208
i like it and those emperor and gravity defying blood drops

>>96827362
*note, this in particular is still mostly acetone, so I suspect acetone would do similarly as well and I have used it before too, this stuff is just a little spicier and faster in my experience.

>>96827399
some people even used to use brake fluid imagine how long did that take

>>96827453
Brake CLEANER fluid, anon.

>>96827453
>>96827458
I was gonna ask, you mean brake cleaner, right?
I can see that making sense, but I've never heard of it.
The advice in my day was to use Easy Off oven cleaner - but only on metal models. And it didn't work very well frankly.

>>96827453
>>96827458
yeah brake cleaner fluid
alright 24 beers im done for today good night fellas
lets keep it civil tomorrow and paint some models

>>96827531
>lets keep it civil
Suck my hairy balls, faggot.

I've never used pigment powders before, but I want to give it a go, so I grabbed a few colors. Whats everyone's favorite go-to for weathering? I feel like I might have fucked myself with this scheme because the blue metallic is a colorshift paint so Im having trouble finding examples of other people dinging it up.

>>96828219
>how it started to grow
>...oh no

>>96826773
>hand sanitizer
Two more weeks

>>96826522
Just use mineral spirit and wear gloves ofc

>>96823068 (OP)
Looking for budget detail airbrush. Should i get the Sparmax SP-20X or the GSI Procon Boy PS-270?

>>96823224
>aHR0cHM6Ly9tZWdhLm56L2ZvbGRlci8zemhSa1FLWiNnNm5QN2RnVHdsR0JZRG5qVzBfQ2Fn
How can i use this link?

>>96829150
look up a base64 decoder

>>96829139
>budget
Fengda, any middle model will do.

>>96829139
Fengda BD 180 is well tested and can do a lot.

>>96829228
>>96829295
b-b-b-b-ut i like mr hobby

>>96825642
Nitrocellulose solvent and acetone.
Nitro is stronger (eats through most paints within a minute) but won't touch superglue, acetone will turn superglue into easily-removable jelly.

>>96826522
>if it irritates your skin just wear gloves
NTA, but that won't work with nitro, it disintegrates them really quickly or seeps through. I usually hold the minis getting stripped with long tweezers and work them over with a toothbrush so I don't have to handle that shit directly.

>>96829329
Sure, pay 2-3x more for the mark. Chinese airbrushes are not some complete crap internet claims they are. I use local variant of said Fengda, polish FA-180A (I assume it's the same model anyway, just different name) and it's very good for my needs. I'm not going to pay 8 times more for "premium" stuff.

Tired of painting nids for the moment. Based and primed and painted him in 1 day, gotta add some final touches to base etc but happy with the progress in a short amount of time

>>96829754
no idea what im looking at here but looking good and you nailed the mossy creek

>>96829754
is he blushing?

>>96823132
A little change of pace

>>96829873
What a fine, pure disgust on his face.

Nice work.

>>96826398
Look good

>>96829139
GSI hands down, same tooling as iawata

>>96830045
has this been confirmed or is it still a rumor based on compatibility?

Can somebody explain varnish to me? I don't really plan to play with my miniatures, I just like painting them. Should I still varnish? I know a glossy varnish isn't ideal, but I don't want to ruin hours and hours of work by doing the wrong thing. Is a thin coat of AK ultra matte varnish just the way to go? And just ignore metallics?

>>96830264
when minis were still made from metal you basically had to varnish them because they would be scraped to hell and back othervise
normal plastic minis have no problem unless you are using these new contrast paints because they will basically peel off just by looking at them wrong
some other anon will most likely fill in what kind of varnish has a hard coat and what to use in between oil washes for example because those are a thing too

>>96830264
If you're not playing with your models and handling them often you don't need to varnish them. Any varnish will slightly dull the colors. I actually use AK ultra matte as well and it's really good.

Sometimes you want to varnish just to unify the sheen on your minis if you're using paints with different finishes, for instance if something is rly glossy you dont want glossy.

Varnish is also a good step prior to using newsh. Gloss varnish is useful before applying panel liner.

Hope this helps. Have a mini pic too

>>96830264
If you don't need to worry about wear and tear from transport&playing, then varnish at the beginner level is just a way to get things as gloss/satin/matte as you want them when the paint themselves are something else. If things are the way you want them without varnish then don't bother, but otherwise apply the kind you want in the places you want it. This could be an all over spray coat of matte varnish if you want everything matte and not all of it is, or it could be painting over this bit with gloss varnish, that bit with sating varnish, and a third bit with a dead flat one.

If you move up to doing scale model style weathering then a number of coats of varnish is usually involved in order to keep the weathering you're currently applying from messing up the previous layers of work.

>>96830343
>and what to use in between oil washes for example
Acrylic varnish there, or more specifically, avoid oil/enamel-based varnish since the solvent in your wash will dissolve it.

>>96830343
>>96830350
>>96830358
As of right now, I don't plan to play with them, but I may consider it in the future. I was watching a vid from Vince where he says he mostly does 1 part gloss to 3 parts ak ultra matte. Would this be a good catch-all for minis? And I just make it and use a shade paint to cover the entire mini (bar metallics)? I don't want to think too hard about it but I also want to make sure they stand the test of time, especially if I do decide to go back and play.

>>96830404
I love this!

>>96830422
i also use ultramatt, i do matt everything and then do a pass with 1:1 ultramatt and satin for the metals

>>96830422
>I was watching a vid from Vince where he says he mostly does 1 part gloss to 3 parts ak ultra matte. Would this be a good catch-all for minis?
Haven't seen it in person (that I know of) but that's probably an ok way to go. Then again the "ideal" is rather down to personal preference here, so the exact ratio is... whatever. Unless you think it desaturates your colours too much I'd probably just run pure matte, don't complicate things if you don't need to.

> And I just make it and use a shade paint to cover the entire mini
"It"? If you mean the varnish then the kind of protective varnish we talk about here usually goes on last, after all the actual painting. Anything you do afterwards will, after all, not be protected by it. As for shade paint... you mean something like a wash or contrast paint? Whether you'd want something like that absolutely all over or all over save for the metallics (or all over save for some other part) depends on the paint scheme and look you're after. Sometimes a single one all over works ok (usually a somewhat desaturated darkish brown with the end goal being a somewhat dirty looking mini), sometimes it doesn't.
On the other hand if you mean varnishing before a wash to change how the wash works then you want a more matte varnish coat to make the wash stain more and give more colour overall, or a more gloss varnish for the opposite effect.

>I don't want to think too hard about it
Yeah, just paint the bloody thing and then, if you feel like it, spray it with a more-or-less matte varnish. Take the advanced stuff when you get there instead of worrying about them now.

>>96830422
Realistically you can just use a canned matte varnish, hit the whole model with a single coat and it'll be durable enough for casual handling and unless you put it next to an identical unvarnished model you won't even be able to tell that the colors changed

>>96830508
>"It"?

The mix of satin / ultra matte

>shade paint

Meant shade brush

>>96830539
>>96830508
what's a good spray matte varnish? I watched a couple vids and they all recommended against it.

>>96830540
Ah. Yes, that could work. Spray cans/airbrush tend sot be quicker, but if that's not available then the big hairy stick it is.

>>96830542
hard question that has just as many answers as there are people answering
some prefrer brand products others swear by hardware store cheap alternatives
i go with hardware store but the quality and availability varies greatly because its a big world so impossible to recommend anything

>>96830542
montana makes a good one

>>96830264
Acrylic paints tend to change coloration from natural light, overall it's for protection of paint layer, be it physical damage, light or other problems. Even paintings that spend their entire life on the wall gets some sort of protective varnish layer so don't complain and just do it.

How do I prevent aggrellan earth from chipping off? I apply it, let it set but then if I do any sort of handling it just starts to fall off.

>>96830264
Oh and AK "ultra matt" can easily kill all sort of reflections and, at least in my case, make colors lose saturation. Personally I recommend either mixing it with their normal matt varnish or use Vallejo "mecha color" one mixed with dedicated thinner.

>>96830607
A coat of watered-down PVA? Like you would with sand

Just don't use Vallejo new "matt" varnish. They screwed it up and it ends up glossy, somehow.

>>96830640
like underneath the crackle paint?

>>96830793
over a dry one
you know like what you do with a regular base

>>96830641
Oh FFS, and I just bought a bottle. Thanks for the warning I guess, I'll try mine out first and if it is fucked like in your pics treat it as satin.

>>96830641
You're not supposed to thin matte varnish.

Better picture, he's based now.

Took like 5 hours

Speed paints r a godsend honestly

>>96831017
based

>>96831017
>Tau skull
DEVILISH
Very nice base I have to say

>>96830819
I've never put pva over a base, so not sure what you mean. For example, just put model on > put stirland battlemud > wait for dry > drybrush.

Other than that, I've only used PVA to glue things like sand particles / what not, but that goes on underneath.

>>96831189
nice paintjob but god these models are awful

>>96831199
O don't understand the hate, Only problems i have was no wings and derpy heads. And it all easy fixable.

>>96830983
Last time I didn't, it ended up either too thick (normal varnish) or with brush marks ("mecha color"). Either dedicated thinner or little of flow improver, thinning with water only worked sort of with Vallejo polyurethane matt varnish (I don't think it's available anymore), with mecha it only caused it to separate and pool.

>>96831189
>actual smegmarines
Yikes.

>>96831172
>Other than that, I've only used PVA to glue things like sand particles / what not, but that goes on underneath.
A common suggestion is that you wait for that first lot of PVA to dry, then apply a layer of diluted PVA on top of the sand to sort of 'seal' the sand in
Good example of it in this vid https://youtu.be/oizcY6B6mvU?t=114, I think the idea they're getting at is to do a similar thing with your texture paints once they've dried

Slaanesh possesed from og possesed and flawless blades. Early wip still figuring colour scheme

>>96831315
>>96831321
>Slaanesh
Not enough boobs and/or penis. Second guy is just begging for a phallus to be greenstuffed on that crotch-plate.

>>96829873
Nice elf

>>96831352
I also gort this guy

I don't understand the obsession with dead flat clear coat, especially for models that are wearing metal armor. most objects in real life have some degree of reflectivity.

How do you guys attach your minis after basing? Superglue?

>>96831659
I highly encourage everyone to try varnishing with a 1:1 mix of matte and satin. It looks pretty natural and doesn't completely kill the shine on metallics.

>>96831689
>Varnish
>Metallics

anon?

>>96831659
Shiny clear coats make whatever you put it on look like a cheap fisher price toy

>>96831659
You shouldn't flat coat over metallics. For NMM it still makes sense because you don't want additional specular reflections interfering with the highlights you're painting in.

>>96831315
Damn, I had the same idea but I pussied out because of the cost so I just did the flawless dudes
I think it still works because it's a Fabius army and drugged up super marines makes more sense than quasi daemon marines

God damn it, I just want to voice out my frustration - I try to properly paint this white robe but struggle so much to avoid shadows, gold details and all other elements along the way, having to put brush in very odd angles and usually block all light in the way so I barely see where I'm painting at the moment. And the more I try, the more my hands start to shake. And already had to add some glue to the wings since I keep accidentally poking it with hand while trying to adjust the brush.

Easily hardest mini I painted so far, I'm probably not good enough for it at all.

>>96831698
Yeah. Everything here has been varnished that way(1:1 matt:satin, I use AK) and as you can see the metallics are still nice and fairly shiny. To be fair I do paint some volumetrics on them, guess I should try it on just edge highlighted metallics or something.

>>96831676
When I do it that way I use superglue and a pin if it's metal or larger models, i.e. larger than a marine.

I think I've decided that I hate miniature painting.

>>96831823
That's a shame. I hope you find a different hobby that you'll enjoy, anon.

>>96830373
Lacquer like Mr hobby topcoat is fine, as long as you let it sit 24 hours

>artis opus make paints on kickstarter
>vallejo made new line of paint true metal color something
>constract paint whatever
>oil paint whatever
As if buying plastic mini isn't already expensive enough

>>96831892
artis opus is one of those brands that I just don't understand how it's sustainable.
>We make mediocre products in a niche hobby where a generally the people who would even know about us are at least somewhat informed
>But we also price them really highly, making them a very bad value proposition
I don't get it.

>>96831892
Is someone forcing you to buy all this new shit, anon? Quickly blink 3 times if you're being blackmailed.

>>96831892
Nobody says you HAVE TO buy them. I still use original Metal Color line just fine, only TTC gold instead of theirs since Vallejo one is more like desaturated silver-gold. Likewise AK acrylics are, hopefully, not going anywhere and are probably best acrylics right now (maybe with TTC but definitely cheaper).

>>96831892
Artis Opus is so fucking shit, I regret wasting $200 on a superior set I can get for $30 on Amazon.

>>96827458
No, actual brake fluid works (and works extremely well -- better than diluted acetone mixtures do eg. nail polish remover).

I think one of the DOT formulas is caustic, so not that one. I think the good one is probably DOT 3.

I might get this deldar girl. She might be the most attractive female mini GW has ever made, but oof, these promo pics with the print lines and literal dust on the mini. They must have really been crunching to get these out on time.

Anyone ever do imprint-casting with sprue goo?

I've been experimenting. It kind of works and can produce impressive results, but you need pretty "wet" sprue goo to catch details and get a smooth finish, and that means you can't really use a two sided mold.

Still frigging around with it and wondering if anyone else has tried.

>>96832129
Damn, I wish I could paint like this. S far after 3 years Im still at low quality level.

>>96831720
recast
it best for experiments

>>96831315
>>96831321
Based and pastel pilled

>>96832163
Are you actively trying new things and putting an effort towards improving? GW box art quality is not absurdly difficult to achieve

>>96832215
I do but I don't really see a progress.

>GW box art quality is not absurdly difficult to achieve

Time to kill myself then.

>>96832328
My bad, I didn't mean to bring you down. Work on your brush control, maybe? Eavy metal is all about doing layers of edge highlights and you need precise control for that. Plus a lot of time and patience, I guess.

>>96832344
Sorry, right now I struggle with model that I have to hold in a way where I cannot place either hand against the table and everything goes in a way and risk painting over or breaking off arm or wing or something else and this is the first time in my life when I'm actively AFRAID of continuing to paint.

>paint cloth
>think "it looks to clean so I'll just add a little grey/brown"
>fuck it up and a patch looks now unpainted
annoying

>>96832426
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=oqp76vAJu9g
This video is pretty good if you're struggling with shaking

>>96832129
Wot? Not the Bob Olley female servitor?

>>96832690
Okay, the second sexiest.

Took me around 2 hours.

I think I have to end here. Not because I consider her done but because I don't think I can do her better. First mini to simply defeat me.

I have 14 other minis from this series to complete but I honestly don't think I will be able to. And I thought that Infinity minis are hard to paint.

Side view.

>>96832658
Thanks but I saw this video before. Unfortunately here I couldn't do much due to her wings and spear preventing me from placing firm grip or support my hands.

>>96832690
Now that Space Marines by-and-large don't have servitors, I'm less interested in getting this model, but she's the only Bob Olley Adeptus Mechanicus that I am missing.

>>96831215
They have, without exaggeration, the worst posing on any model I've ever seen. They look so unbelievably derpy and stupid. The sculptor clearly has no idea how to make action poses because they look laughably bad. And that's before you get to how ugly the general sculpt is with the fat chest, the ugly and identical negro faced masks (not pictured), and the lack of any interesting ornamentation across the whole model.
>TL;DR
They're dogshit and you should feel bad about giving GW your money for them.

>>96832981
i like your collection

>>96832129
>She might be the most attractive female mini GW has ever made
>90% of her face is covered
really makes you think

>>96832426
>right now I struggle with model that I have to hold in a way where I cannot place either hand against the table
get a fucking vise. hold the workpiece in the vise and use your entire upper body to control the paint brush.

>>96833399
No, the face is good actually.

Why can't I paint minis while in bed. I would get so much more done.

>>96832163
>>96832328
My advice is to work on your fundamentals. If you haven't gotten them down already, work on fine brush control thinning your paints to the correct consistency for what you're trying to do with them. If you have those pretty well down, then start learning techniques one at a time. You don't necessarily have to make a whole project of doing something new every time you sit down, but try to use a new technique on part of a model for every one you do. Or practice one.
Another important thing is that your tools need to match your skills. If you're still using shit beginner brushes, get new ones. You need brushes that can hold a fine tip for longer than 5 minutes so you can do detail work.
>>96832943
Don't know what to say about this one. For a mini that's too big or awkward to paint in one piece my only advice is sub-assemblies.
But looking at your work here, it's not necessarily bad. Just the work of a beginner, or in your case someone who hasn't pushed themselves enough. You look to at least have an idea of highlights and where to place them.

>>96832943
>>96832959
white looks good and she looks pretty nice considering how much trouble you had

>>96833448
if you say so

>>96833448
Someone at GW really liked Baldurs Gate 3. would

>>96833476
Was also thinking that.
Hey if it makes then do faces better than the sisters of battle I'm fine with it.

>>96833457
Alright, I guess next time I will have to think over paint process before even gluing parts since her biggest problem was how I would constantly have to get around her wings to reach deeper areas or do edge highlighting without painting other parts by accident.

>fundamentals

Right now I absolutely cannot get the glazing part right. At all. Either brush is getting too dry when I remove too much of water or remove not enough and each movement produce pooling instead.

>>96833464
Maybe I'm overreacting then. Thank you for good word.

>>96833377
also the spears are too fat. there's something very amateur and last-gen about the sculpts.

>>96833670
Consider using a wet palette. It will make glazing infinitely easy.

>>96833670
outer wings and that clump of something under her feet looks pretty horrible
large surfaces can be hard but there was a texture to work with, thin your paints and dont put too much paint or pressure when you drybrush

>>96831215
For me personally their bodies are the biggest issue. I can't put my finger on it, they feel too bulky? They don't evoke the grace previous scupts did.

>>96833448
Looks like an anime babe, what the SoB should look like actually.

>>96833670
what are you dabbing your brush on? it's difficult to not draw too much water out if you're using a paper towel. doesn't matter much for regular painting but when you start going fancy with light glazing (no idea why youtubers are recommending it to beginners lately) using something less absorbent makes a difference.

>>96833748
Sisters would sell like fucking hot cakes if they were cute anime girls. I know I'd jump on it immediately.

>>96833819
>>96833748
Indian hands wrote these posts

>>96833819
Imagine SoB sculpted by the Kingdom Death team.

>>96833882
a man can dream

>>96833723
I am already.

>>96833726
I could also get back to sponge use. Wings were actually just treated with dark wash made out of oil paint with white spirit and wiped out of top parts. I was afraid of trying to glaze over them, expected to rather ruin it instead.

>>96833811
Yeah, paper towel. No idea what else would fit.

>why recommend it to beginners lately

I'm not following any YT guys but I assume it's because of brush and thinning control that comes with it.

>>96833670
I always do sub-assemblies. At a minimum I like to keep the head separate. You could always try masking area that are done. blu tac or poster putty should stick without pulling any paint off and come off fairly easily.
>glazing
Test your brush against your nail before touching glaze to model. I tend to wick my brush onto a wet part of my paper towel. That way it doesn't suck out all the moisture. If you look at Duncan's Blood Angel blade guard video he does a pretty good demonstration of glazing a power sword. There's always Vince too.

>>96833734
The tubes on their sides make them look really fat. Just every step of the design process was a failure.

>>96834048
>The tubes on their sides make them look really fat.
Holy shit yeah, that's it.

>>96833922
> Wings were actually just treated with dark wash made out of oil paint with white spirit and wiped out of top parts. I was afraid of trying to glaze over them, expected to rather ruin it instead.
just a suggestion but how about keep it simple and just do a normal drybrush

>>96833882
>$50 a piece, no STL
I'll pass.

>>96834123
really nice minis tho

>>96834157
The juice isn't worth the squeeze, if I want gooner minis I can proont the pinups from artisan guild or one of the infrequent ones by other creators.

>>96834123
you can get recasts for a thenth of that, on aliexpress even

>>96834123
Not for the person who matches my SS they aren't.

>>96826398
Look fantastic, please post update when you do the armor. Interesting choice of skin color, not my taste but really well executed.

>>96826749
This thing is taking me forever to paint.

>>96834575
Oops, didnt mean to quote that post.

>>96834580
Sure thing james.

Wip

>>96833922
>Yeah, paper towel. No idea what else would fit.
piece of normal paper works just to dab off excess and twirl a bit to reshape a point. I use tissues because I had a coupleof spare boxes. Finding something that's not going to immediately suck all the moisture out of your brush helps a lot.

It is nice to have a paper towel on hand for when you do need quick suction though.

>>96823068 (OP)

Anybody have suggestions for a black crackle paint to use as an alternative for mordant earth?

>>96835266
just use any crackle paint and paint it afterwards

>>96835271
pain in the ass to keep it off the paintjob underneath the crackle

>>96835266
Mix black paint with a transparent crackle medium.

Mini of the month.

>>96834575
Looks very nice though
>>96834697
Mirin' that skin
>>96835555
Nice. I like the blue on the gun and the stripes on the stock

Really ought to post here more often

I need to thin a AP Soft Tone for my Saruman, I have AK Glaze Medium and AP Speedpaint medium. Which do I use? Is there a difference? Should I stop overthinking and just use water?

Are contrast paints just inks?

>>96836082
I also have the Vallejo Xpress medium.

Got some stuff done today on the red one. Gonna paint some steel highlights and rust tomorrow after the oil wash has dried up

>>96834697
Love seeing more orks! Skin looks nice so far

Sometimes I think doing NMM on clean shiny metal is easier than rough barely reflective metal. Anyway, the main armor is starting to come together.

>>96836232
Nice canz!

>>96836242
Thx anon! That's a nice looking pink ork too, I especially dig the cleaver

>>96836176
Not exactly but they're pretty similar, yes.

>>96836082
Contrast mediums make it so the paint flows better in the recesses.

I don't know what a glaze medium is, the concept of what a glaze is doesn't make necessary to create a medium for it, technically just any non contrast medium can work. So it's probably just a fancy word for a quite normal medium.

Its Orktober my dudes.

Pls help
These heads are perfect for some Kill team Sanctifiers I wanted to make.
Sanctifiers are on their way, but Tabletop Art don't ship to the UK.

Anyone know of anything similar?

>>96837296
Sold through multiple stores, this one at least has a bunch of non-EU options in the "deliver to" drop down menu: https://www.pk-pro.de/Cultist-Heads-Set-1-8_1

>>96837296
Try other webshops, there's a few German stores that have them.

>>96837335
They also go very well with Cawdor bodies, pic related.

>>96837296
Have you considered just sculpting some hoods onto hoodless heads yourself? It's not a very complicated shape.

>>96837025
Very nice rust effects. The banana/crescent shape is also really cool but that horn at the bottom kinda looks like, you know...
>>96836232
These are just lovely. Again, the vibrant colors are so good.
>>96835840
That's supposed to be like a damascus steel, right? Very impressive if you actually freehanded all that. Looks very good, so does the blue glow.
>>96835555
Nice numbers, anon. I like the gun and I feel like the face looks good but it's a bit blurry
>>96834575
It looks great, though!
>>96831189
Very nice gold and I like the NMM.

How decent is this for someone new to the hobby?

My brother-in-law tried it and loved painting two space marines, I've got even more SMs to give and along with them I want to give some bare necessities and this looks like a nice parcel of stuff for 41€ or instead of this one I'd get the modeless intro kit for 30€.

Also his two first marines are precious, I gave him a tutorial and a limited pallet for an Ultramarine and he went totally free with his own scheme.

>>96837337
Yeah, first thing I did when getting back into warhammer was oyumaru some old Redemptionist hoods (picrel). This was before the new Redemptionists came out.

Really liked how they turned, despite my rusty painting skills.

Wanna go for the same vibe with Sanctifiers, but it was a lot of effort and figured easier to buy

>>96837372
I could. Not sure I really have the heads though - the Sanctifier heads don't look conducive to this. Also same issue as above

>>96837326
>>96837335
So it was actually set 2 I wanted, which pk-pro does not have in stock.
May settle for set 1, but it's 22 euros for shipping, which I can't justify for 8 heads.

Etsy as some, but all in the States and won't ship to UK.
My tip has been teased :(

>>96837296
https://www.northstarfigures.com/prod.php?prod=7731

>>96836082
Water will make shades coffeestain on the mini like a mother fucker. Glaze medium could do what you need it to and just dilute the pigment intensity while speed paint medium might make it pull away from the edges and pool in the recesses more.

>>96837538
I eventually went with the Vallejo Xpress medium, it looks alright but needs more time to fully dry. I will report back once I've finished the white robe.

>>96837531
Yeah that's an option, if I can find the heads sold separately. I think Frostgrave does good hoods, but not good faces.

I have asked an Etsy seller if they'll see the heads of these separately. We'll see.

>>96837435
Obviously you don't get very far with those paints, and citadel pots are cancer anyway. On the other hand, people usually lose interest quite quickly, so it doesn't make sense to immediately buy them all the best tools either.

>>96837544
Oh, perfect. Xpress medium is probably the best choice. It’s almost like Lahmian medium.

>>96832981
She's the only servitor I currently own... I'll be needing a few more if I don't stall-out on my RT guard army. The RT Guard armylist was harsh... your compulsory unit choices were a whole platoon of Tactical squads... each with a Las Cannon.... so the minimum army size was about 1,200 points. The Ork lists could make 300 point starter armies :P

Sucky picture I know (was in a hurry at work) but which color lasgun do anons think looks better? Originally I did the brown ones but wasn't thrilled with it so tried the green. Also considering black but I don't think that would look good either.

>>96837296
>Kill team Sanctifiers
they look like they're ready to kill some darkies to sanctify their southern community if you know what I mean

I feel like I'm being gaslit into buying this trash. You use one application and it's basically empty.

>>96837974
It's beautiful, I may have to print me up a set.

>>96837713
bottom matches the camo better

>>96837977
That's why you buy the pen version

>>96837713
The green one for me, you don't want your guns looking like the uniform.

I don't understand what is so good about H&S airbrushes other than the fancy faggotry trigger

>>96835041
>for when you do need quick suction
Never thought to ask if my wife would like to join me for painting, heyoooooo. Seriously though, thanks for the tip. NTA but I've been struggling with my brushes drying out too quick, didn't even think the paper towel might be causing it.

>>96835840
How'd you do the pattern on the blade? I'm trying to figure out a good way to do the hammering pattern on WW1 plane cowls and what you did here might help.

>>96836082
I thin my AP tones with speedpaint 2 medium. Works like a charm.

>>96838235
>fancy faggotry trigger
what the fuck are you even talking about lmao

Spooktober continues

>>96838235
There's supposed to be something really special about them? My airbrush for the last decade or so is an H&S Evolution Silverline and, well, that just seems like a good, standard airbrush. Wasn't particularly expensive either from what I can recall. Trigger's just another double action affair.
Have you been listening to teenagers' console wars and/or clickbaiting youtubers again?

>>96838235
>I'm too retarded to search why X is good
>instead, I will lash out like a sperg
Classic.

>>96838368
Apparently quality, precision and so on. But I tried that cleaner flush trick with my Chinese airbrush (local variation of Fengda 180 I suppose, polish FA-180A) and it worked just the same.

>>96838235
I have owned Infinity CRplus 2024 for about a year now, and it is the best airbrush I've ever used. Everything is very, very smooth a retardation-free; from spraying to cleaning. It was obviously made by people who clearly don't want to limit or sabotage the potential user in any way and consider him a functional adult, too. So there's no idiotic nanny shit, or dumb fucking design faults that make any part of using it unpleasant. I also know that with a little bit of care, it will be my last airbrush.
I've used a lot of airbrushes, including Micron, and I like Infinity the most.

That said, you can get ~90% of the same functionality with the latest Evolution, imo. Also, it always boils down to a user case. If you want to just prime/highlight/preshade/do some elementary gradients, just get something like BD-180. The cleaning will be more annoying, and something will need replacing a lot sooner (seals, probably), and the paint atomization will be slightly worse, but it will definitely be enough. If you want to go down to hairline detail, get Infinity (or Micron).

It's also nice to buy local made and not from chinks for once, but that's just me.

>>96838840
>But I tried that cleaner flush trick with my Chinese airbrush (local variation of Fengda 180 I suppose, polish FA-180A) and it worked just the same.
The what trick now? Blocking the nozzle with your fingers to blow air back into the cup or something?

Speaking of airbrushes, last time when I encountered a serious problems with spraying, I blamed both my lack of knowledge, Vallejo new paints and my airbrush, mentioned before local Chinese variant (Fine Art FA-180A - I'm almost sure that it's the same as BD-180 or similar, just sold locally). In some sort of mental blackout I ordered online better variant from same company (FA-190X if anyone cares) after another inner tyrade about absurdly high prices of H&S airbrushes... and then, after calming down, listening to anons here, watching H&S instruction videos, I got better simply by changing cleaning routine, adding dedicated Vallejo thinner instead of water, training with trigger, replacing needle and nozzle on cheapest airbrush I got from 0.3 to 0.5mm to use it solely with varnishes and primers. In the end I keep using that 180A model and 190X instead lies unused in the box because it have so called "floating" nozzle and I'm afraid of taking out needle in such case (because with normal nozzle I would first insert and screw it and then slowly insert needle until it reach desired position - with floating I cannot do that since nozzle itself have no thread) since I could accidentally insert it in wrong position and either damage nozzle or leave it opened and leaking. Oh and it have teflone seals for some reason instead of rubber ones, didn't expect that.

You can laugh at me now for essentially wasting money and being silly.

>>96838966
Yeah, I'm little afraid of doing this however since it have "flower" shape nozzle cap so I need to unscrew it first and block needle with a cloth, risking bending it. And flushing cleaning solution while moving trigger back and forth instead of keeping it in maximum position.

>>96838361
SOVL

>>96839029
get this so you can block it with your fingers while still protecting the needle
>aliexpress.com/item/1005005671105554.html

i have a gsi creos 289 and got that for that reason

>>96823068 (OP)
Any tips/suggestion for making floor tiles? Want do something like a really dirty hospital/bathroom tile base for my Painboss and Painboy; I'm talking the kind of place where you are getting your organs taken out by the chinese triad. Grabbed a box of white carboard box from work; but I also have some plasticard. Not to sure on where to go from there.

After a couple years I'm finally planning to finish this little guy and turn him into a Christmas ornament. I just noticed this awful seam I left when I put it together. Any reasonable thing I could do to fix it at this point? Or should I just deal with it?

>>96838201
>you don't want your guns looking like the uniform
that's how camo is supposed to work

>>96839263
Dude, shut the fuck up.

>>96839029
That's not some special thing you can only do with H&S you know, or special high quality airbrushes. Though all the extra steps and precautions you have to observe does make it sound like your airbrush is worryingly cheap and fragile... which is what we usually expect out of the Chinese Amazon specials. It absolutely doesn't require some "fancy faggotry trigger".
So use your until it breaks or you grew tired of having to baby it like you do, and then get something that isn't more fragile than it needs to be, and overall just stop making retarded fucking posts like >>96838235

>>96839263
>that's how camo is supposed to work
In real life it is. But even then the difference in texture, dyeing vs painting, difference sin wear and tear, etc will tend to make them different hues sooner rather than later. And most importantly we're not actually painting these miniatures to go to IRL war, we're painting them to make them look cool. A different "camouflagy" colour for the gun will keep the feeling of it all being camouflaged, while also making the gun and clothes distinct instead of "blobbing up" the mini.

>>96839284
>Ukrainians
Those aren't soldiers, those are sacrifices
>parade march
That's also not how they look on the battlefield.

>>96839325
So you're just a troll. Fuck off then.

>>96839341
I'd say you are, posting that image.

>>96839364
He probably posted the first image he found after googling modern soldiers because, you know, the war in Ukraine is going on right now. You're the one acting like a faggot, so fuck off.

>>96839320
>Though all the extra steps and precautions you have to observe does make it sound like your airbrush is worryingly cheap and fragile

I assure you that if I would have H&S airbrush, I would be even more delicate and careful, simply because they are so absurdly expensive (more than I spend on hobby per year). And even this Chinese model is not exactly cheap, 5-6 meals worth at university. Not something to handle without care like some cheap synthetic brush.

I’m happy with the white now.

>>96839325
Go back to your containment thread, retard.

>>96839391
The beauty of a good quality airbrush (and most good quality tools, really), is that you don't have to baby it, and, as a result, the maintenance is usually quick, painless and worry-free. Cleaning chinkbrushes ranges from absolute cancer to annoying, while cleaning my Infinity is a two-minute process that's actually pleasant.

>>96839429
That's a pretty nice, clean job, anon.

>>96839381
I googled regular ass soldiers in an ongoing conflict, not spec ops Call of Duty shit.

>>96839429
That's actually a really nice shade, what did you use here?

>>96839457
It's fine, the difference between the pic you've posted and them being deployed is only in amount of shit they would be carrying, how dirty it is, and how unkept they are. The other anon is a faggot.

>>96839468
It‘s AP Soft Tone thinned with Vallejo Xpress medium 1:2. The hair is AK white, AP Holy White, and some highlights again with the AK white.

>>96837296
Sorry for late reply.
This ships from the EU and is very nice quality (despite using a render as illustration).
https://puppetswar.eu/resin-models-and-bits/all-bits/heads/tormentors-heads.htmlhttps://puppetswar.eu/resin-models-and-bits/all-bits/heads/tormentors-heads.html
Got them myself for my chaos cultists/guardsmen.

>>96837977
It's just a single old molecule anyway, I got a simple bulky drop bottle from greenstuff world and it's absolutely fine.

>>96839429
Very neat ivory look.

>>96839457
>in an ongoing conflict
And there it is, you did choose to make it political.

I've been working on this guy. I'm not sure about the feathers, what color(s) do you guys think would work?

>>96839202
You could try brushing on multiple layers of Ard'coat, letting each one dry first. Then just paint over it. It will likely need like 4 or 5 layers though to hide that.

Thanks for the replies on the gun color. Unfortunately I am still undecided, I am looking for appearance mainly not necessarily realism. If we were going for realism green would arguably be the color as the casing is probably a similar material as the pads and chest armor (some kind of composite) and those kinds of materials don't generally come in a variety of colors as they are mass manufactured.
I will probably go with green but I will think on it and continue to get input while working on my Orks.

>>96839284
it's kind of hard to see but it looks like those rifles have od green receivers to match their woodland camo. you wouldn't have a green gun with desert camo you would have a fde one or an unpainted black one.

>>96839320
>we're painting them to make them look cool
making your gritty army men look realistic is cool. it's not like it's a space marine with fancy colored armor where you could pretend his funny looking gun is some 1000 year old relic.

>>96840404
>it's not like it's a space marine with fancy colored armor
But Raptors are the coolest space marines.

I hit the meat dragon with a few dark blues in the wings and tried to get the dragon to the correct shade I want before I have a multi-week highlighting marathon.

Ideally this week I start the red base coats. I'm doing the blue and white highlights at the end. I'll probably finish the reds fully before any highlighting.

I wasnt planning on it but i think the gold looks too much/uninteresting as theres so much of it. Should i add a verdigris effect to it? Does verdigris even make sense on gold?

>>96837427
Ty anon, glad you like em!

>>96839202
Milliput mixed with IPA can be used as a brush on gap filler and then feathered with more IPA until it's smooth with no sanding. Marco has a video on it where he explains the process in depth

>>96839429
That's some nice white anon

>>96839621
I've ordered some ork stuff from puppetswar before and while the print quality was good, it took over two months for the order to arrive. They're shipping from Poland iirc and I live in another European country so it's not like the distance was huge or anything.

>>96840126
You could just stick to the colors you've already basecoated them with, they look good to me

>>96832981
skulls points tech marines/enginseers right?

>>96834575
ez, keep it up

>>96836242
great progress on these

>>96837558
fantastic soul

>>96839429
I spent a lot of time trying to get bone beige cloth to look good. Yours looks way better than mine. I didnt really blend well

>>96837427
Thanks! The other side of the sword isn't as good. I should have taken a break after painting the lines on the first side.
>>96838337
Blade pattern is a base of "pretty much white-grey" and then lined with "pretty much black-grey". Once I was happy with the lines, I dry-brushed it with a gunmetal paint, and applied a thin black wash before the glow effect was added.

>>96840477
Gold doesn't tarnish, so it wouldn't make sense. For what it's worth, I think it looks great.
>>96840126
Colours look good to me. Maybe you could add a pattern or something to some of them?

>>96840477
If it's not pure gold, then it can. But pure gold doesn't tarnish. You could add some kind of growth on it though depending on where the terrain is meant to be. Dust and dirt, maybe some moss growth, snow.

>>96840477
You can just dull it down in an ununiform manner with washes. Even if gold doesn't rust it will still accumulate dust and grime on exposed surfaces. You can add some rust effects though for variety on the assumption it isn't pure gold or is actually a gold coating over iron/steel. It is a fantasy future metal so just go with whatever looks best without stressing over it making complete sense. That being said I personally wouldn't add Verdigris to that simply because I don't think adding an additional colour to the overall palette helps much as you have it in a nice place already. So better off just weathering the goldish areas in a similar manner or tone to the rest of the piece.

Another halfling conversion. I posted an earlier iteration of this before. Since then I added the feather plumes and the little crest/badge pin holding them all together on his hat. As you can see, before he was manning the ramrod on an artillery crew. Now hes a commander for my arquebusiers. I bought two of the cannons, and they come with crew so this was one of the duplicates. I think the pose lends itself pretty well to the conversion. Some cursory shading done, I'll continue tweaking the shadows a bit more and then get into some highlighting. Won't be sharing the pistol, gauntlet, hat pin or sword for a couple days to let the chrome cure.

>>96840477
>Does verdigris even make sense on gold?
No, but making a building largely out of gold doesn’t make much sense either. Just assume it's brass or some such and slap on that verdigris. Or don't, and just add dirt, soot and dust. Or both. Ruined battlefields usually don't have a very active cleaning detail.

Here is a shot of the crest pin. I clipped the body of it off of a falchion from the whfb empire infantry sets using the "nail clipper" style precision clippers I was shilling earlier this week. Then I drilled a tiny hole in the top of it after scraping one side off with my scriber (another favorite tool of mine I will doubtlessly shill in the coming days and weeks). Then I grabbed one of the little photo etched brass Fleur de Lys symbols I have and stuck it in there and I actually secured it in place by melting the inside of the "pin" onto it using a tiny tiny bit of plastic cement. Then once it was fully cured I used my glue Looper to put a little bit of super thin super glue into there to further secure it in place. Worked great.

Just started on my Inquisitor retinue with the Sister of Silence

>>96839391
So... poverty-induced sour grapes.

>>96840404
>making your gritty army men look realistic is cool.
And in reality a piece of tan cloth usually won't look the same as a piece of tan-painted metal.

>>96840999
Is this FDM?

>>96838840
This may look stupid but it's work

>>96841012
>And in reality a piece of tan cloth usually won't look the same as a piece of tan-painted metal.
ok but neither will look green.

not overly original, but i think he came out mostly ok

>>96841200
>5 eur for 2 plastic caps
For what purpose?

>>96841488
he could use a few more skulls

Took a break from Heroquest to start painting my MESBG gray tide and I'm trying to paint this range more subtle and "realistic", instead of my more cartoony vibrant style. Great model to paint, quick and fun.

>>96841724
you missed the underside of the crozius you FRAUD!!!

This look okay for drawing eye brows

just started painting my first mini (a space marine)
I'm starting with blue and only painting the areas that are going to end blue but I see plenty of people painting the entire mini in blue then painting the rest of the colours over it
It seems easier but will the colours still have a nice tone or will they be bluish?

also my brush seems to get blue paint stuck and won't come out
I thinned my paint in a wet palette
Had to clean the brush with hand soap and now it doesn't leak any more blue paint but it still looks blue
How do you properly clean a brush after using one colour?

>>96841930
Depends on the opacity of the paint and whether you are doing sufficient layers. Layer interactivity mostly comes into play when layering up similar colours or tones, or when specifically using alternative tones for highlighting for effect. If you are just painting over the area like normal it should be fine, though always keep in mind that a brighter tone going over a darker tone will take more effort to reach opacity which is normal.

As for paint drying in the brush either you are in an overly warm and arid location not suited for painting, or you aren't using your water cup often enough. It isn't just there for getting the paint out between changing paints. It is also for removing paint before it dries to the brush.

>>96841949
thanks a lot man
It doesn't seem like everything in my brush is dry paint, since I was still getting paint strokes on a napkin after trying to clean the brush
I guess dry paint doesn't do that? idk
at first I didn't use the water cup until I wanted to stop for a while
I mean, I was actively using the brush

>>96841741
What paints for the metal? Looks sick.

>>96842052
Good rule of thumb is to swish out the brush in your water cup at any point it would be sitting idle. You'll eventually get a feel for when you should be doing it though. But also don't overload the brush so a ton of paint is just sitting in it. You can always load more as you need it so better to err on the side of caution. The other thing is don't store the brush with the brush pointing up when you are drying it out or between breaks. Lay it flat on a surface, e.g. paper towel, so that any left over pigment doesn't collect towards the ferrule. As that will fuck up the brush in the long run. You can also get brush soap from any proper hobby/art supply store. You don't really need to use it after every session but good to have for longevity of your good brushes. Probably best to get cheap shitter brushes to start with though until you are used to the basics. Since it doesn't matter if you wreck them, and even a wrecked brush can still be useful for stippling and whatnot.

>>96842145
why aren't artist paint brushes made so you can hang them bristle down like house painting brushes?

>>96842167
Good question.

Is it normal to feel like fucking shit and dizzy after using magnifying glasses?