The Surfing General

Pipe masters is on edition
https://www.youtube.com/live/eWKucDh3Z1k?si=dHpRPBGhFtqvgsQ4
>how do I learn to surf?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IrwL5_57C6w [Open]

>How do I pick the right board?
Use a volume calculator, and find the right board type for your local break or waves you want to ride
https://www.jsindustries.com/volume-calculator
https://www.boardcave.com/surfboard-volume-calculator

>how do I know if the waves are good?
go check surfline or magicseaweed for reports

Anyone tried 3d printed fins? I'm still a kook so I doubt I'll be able to feel any difference, but it came out pretty decently I think

Pic related, now without self doxx

>>185762 (OP)
are lessons a meme? When I first tried snowboarding I took an intro lesson and it kind of felt like a waste of time. All they did was show you the basics and sent you on your way - the rest was good old fashion trial and error.

Well if that's the case why not just look up the basics online and then hop in the ocean?

>>186042
pretty neat.

>>186107
I didn't take lessons but I knew surfers and would constantly pick their brains my first few months. I also bodyboarded a long time so was already comfortable navigating a line up and catching waves (although it took some adjusting to what I was used to).
For a pure beginner I think you could just get a board, hit the white wash and give it a go. Focus on getting to your feet and staying on the wave as it pushes you. Once you can do that consistently you're ready for some unbroken waves.
Lessons probably would have helped my progress in parts, but I would literally have needed years of it as I seem to get stuck at random progression levels.

>/r/surfing
>Once again, redditors find an interest or hobby but find that they actually have no talent for it, so rather than becoming experts and it, they instead become experts about it, and smugly copypaste sarcastic non-answers which are updootable to validate their 'expertise.'
where do you go for actual surfing discussion and q&a? I like /xs/ but its a slow board

Anywhere good to surf this coming season on the east coast?

>>186107
Most lessons are an absolute meme in my experience. I’m talking about what I’ve witnessed and experienced in Morocco, Phillippines, Indonesia, Spain, Portugal and France. It was usually just instructors making sure nobody drowns and nothing except pop ups was explained whatsoever. In poor countries it’s mainly impoverished guys who realised it’s better to push fat Germans into white wash and pocket some tips and have a chance at some tourist pussy than slaving away in some dystopian factory job 60 hours a week to barely be able to afford basic sustenance. Many of them don’t even really surf. In Australia, where I live, you get washed up surfers who never become pro and random backpackers being instructors and doing an okayish job at ensuring the Germans don’t drown. But you can also pay people like Occy or Margo or other ex pros a couple hundred dollars per hour to actually couch intermediates into progressing into advanced territory. They will perfect your turns, teach you how to generate speed off your bottom turns, barrel riding etc. Totally not a meme but very pricey.

>>186201
Yeah that sub sucks dude. I also am interested in finding a good forum for waveriders. Anyone?

its hard to progress when you can't do it every day

>>186315
I moved to a town with abysmal surf (1ft closeout 99% of the time) that gets super crowded anyway to be with the love of my life. Might break up soon

>>186315
I've been going out 4 or 5 times a week and i think im getting worse

>>186650
Kek I know the feeling. Been a bit over a year for me. Some days I do well, some days it's a nightmare from beginning to end.
A couple weeks ago I was surfing on low tide and it was quite sucky, I nose dived 5 waves in a row when bottom turning. Was good fun.

>>186036
pretty cool idea I haven't heard of them before but would make sense that they would run good.
>>186107
I've been surfing for 20 years lessons are a little bit of a meme but there is only one thing you actually need to learn and thats the pop up everything after that is somewhat easy. You can practice it at home I haven't watched this shit but may be helpful
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9rz-ucDwjVU
>>186201
>>186290
I got banned on that sub for calling out that tranny so would also like one I can make a discord server or a forum if we can get enough people to join that isn't newfags posting themselves falling off.
>>186315
I've heard a surf skate is a good way to get ahead but also IKTF.

What are you guys riding at the moment? Here's my quiver

There are good forums out there but most members have been posting for 10-15 years and newfags rarely fit in. I won't post any here, find them yourself and if you are not a kook in 2-3 years it'll be your home.

>>186858
They all look the exact same

>getting comfy surfing little waves
>don't catch them all but catch a handful
>see good forecast and paddle out
>head-high waves
>get absolutely dunked on my the ocean
Those things are scary as shit. Are you really supposed to pop up while you're being catapulted out of the ocean? I felt like I was pitched way forward on the peak looking over a cliff and trying to lean back to level off, but either end up nosediving kamikaze style or shooting off at a million miles per hour and dragging along trying to pop up for like 10 seconds. Before I felt like I could paddle in and pop up when it felt like the board had been "put in gear." But the last times I just start front flipping

I ran into someone and dinged my board. I had to bail to avoid some guy and thought I did, checked on him and he was all good. 15 minutes later I realised a chunk of my rail was missing. Idk who was at fault, probably mixed.. but damn I hate crowds.

absolute beginner kook here.

Should I be catching the white water when starting out?

I've had a few sessions surfing the white water and starting to get more consistent in my pop up.
Went out with an experienced friend today, tried catching unbroken waves and got destroyed. Feeling demotivated.

At least now I've discovered surfers of bali.

whats the best time of year to surf in santa cruz

>>187207
>not hyper optimizing your quiver around head high to slightly overhead surf
ngmi
I never really sure anything bigger than double overhead so each of those are for varying conditions from the waist high to double overhead range.
|>>187210
No you are supposed to catch before it throws over you took off too late. Once you master getting up you can take off under the lip of the wave but its very difficult.
>>187408
Yes catch the white water. You can practice getting the pop up on land its definitely worth it just pretend paddle into the wave and push up. Once you got the pop up everything else is significantly easier.

>>187421
What sizes? All epoxy? I've been through two boards now and am thinking of getting a new one. My current board is a 6'6x3"x22". Comfy in overhead surf but any bigger I struggle a little if the take off is critical. What is the ideal next step to surf a bit more difficult waves (mostly rip bowls or shallow sand banks)? Just try find a board with those sizes a bit smaller (FB marketplace is 99% likely where ill buy)? Also want to do some better turns, can only really carve and kind of do floaters now.

>>187408
Why are surfer chicks so annoying, incidentally?
>>187421
I meant that they're all white. Seems like high level surfers hate colorful boards for some reason

>>185762 (OP)
The biggest filter in surfing is conditioning. It’s hard for a beginner to achieve the fitness levels they need to progress. Many beginners spend most of their time on their feet jumping into whitewash which can be challenging from a fitness standpoint but not impossible. But that doesn’t produce the fitness results your body needs to be able to paddle into a line up and catch the waves from sitting on your board. Just holding the board between your legs and maneuvering it takes a bit of minor muscle conditioning. Even when just sitting in your board you’re by ing a ton of energy. I guess what I’m saying is, it’s a very hard sport to progress at because the level of fitness you need to do it successfully is high and can only be gained by doing it but doing it and failing is no fun so people give up.

>>187428
Bend your back knee and straiten out your front leg. The quickness and amount of pressure will control if u do a snap or a carve. You just have to feel where the transition is and get your weight back on your front foot takes trial and error to get right. It’s crucial that your shoulders stay over your knees. Basic athletic stance.

>>187421
thanks mate

>>186042
From what I've heard, they don't work. The material is too brittle.

>>187644
This and checked.
>>186042
I would cast a mold of the fin and then make a fiberglass piece out of it.
I know, it's a lot of work... But once you have the mold you can make a lot of fins with it!

>>185762 (OP)
PUERTO RICO
>PUERTO RICO
PUERTO RICO
>PUERTO RICO
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mZFoKUcMXQw
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TebODmBajAc

how do i cope with being a permakook? I just don’t seem to get better after surfing 3 times a week for 4 years. Like how do I escape this? barely do a cutback and definitely not top to bottom or consistently building speed. Still fall off and pop up to my knees every session too. Should i just buy a boogie board or something?

>>189130
Its impossible to say but I would guess two things, your body position is probably quite square. I see lots of people permalocked into the pooman stance. Or you can't read waves too well, which takes a bit of time and experience.

I told myself I'd go out every day, but is it worth just dicking around in whitewash when there's no swell? I don't want to reinforce any bad habits that I'll have to unlearn on unbroken wave days

>>189710
I think swimming / bodysurfing helps you understand waves and the oceans movements better.

what sites do you guys use to read articles? I know most of the major surf mags are all dead now, haven't been into the scene since 2007.

>>190545
Articles in general are dead, anon. Have you been out of the world since 2007 too?

>>189130
3 times a week for 4 years
>has a cutback
>gets to surf constantly

man im so jealous i can backside hack but frontside is honestly very mid and good waves are few are far between

>>189696
>>190593
I guess I should get over myself. Thanks guys.

>>190665
Just focus on riding the wave and less on tricks. Being able to cruise, build speed and rid in the pocket > a kooky turn. Try surf different types of waves, variety will force you to focus on developing different parts of your surfing.

some stuff the never gets talked about i feel like beyond the most obvious feel free to reply to this post with other stuff i'd love to know what you guys have been sitting on with tech
>paddle the speed of the wave
>don't grab rail on takeoff
>hands under chest basically just under the nips
>angling your hands the direction you want to take off so hands pointed right to prompt you into turning in

stuff like
>frontside comes easier if you turn your leaning hand (supination) and you look up (and pronation) to turn back down

does anyone do this kinda of bullshit or

>>190748
I meant to say leading hand

also I thought
>angling your hands the direction you want to take off so hands pointed right to prompt you into turning in
was pretty tech

stuff beyond
>look where you want to go
is kinda what i meant, sorry for trashing the thread with spam

>>189696
Nta but tightened up my pop up this week and it's crazy how much more control I have standing straighter compared to my old püpermensch stance. Is there a lot of lean in a typical bottom turn, sort of like countersteering on a motorcycle/bike? I can turn but I've usually outrun the wave by the time my turn is finished

>>190545
Swellnet has good articles

>>190823
U going down the line already?

My sense is you are standing too tall and not bending at the knees.

U need 2 be able to pump down the line. Turns will come after that

>>191489
This is definitely a problem I need to consciously keep reminding myself of. Especially on steeper take offs.
Most waves I ride a rarely use my tail pad. The few times my foot ends up there I feel too far back on the board and tend to stall almost. But I have noticed when it's there I have much sharper turning ability. My few successful turns tend to have been with it there. Idk what to do with this info but it's something I'm picking up. I'm also interested in a new board but no idea what. Don't want to jump onto a shortboard just yet.

Once again, I have been humbled by the low tide dredging sandbar

>>190545
what articles do you want to read anon?
>>189130
have you got one of those surf skate boards? Slowing it done and working on
1. foot placement
2. Generating speed
3. Posture
will probably do wonders for your surfing. Another thing is surfing is largely driven by your right hand if you're natural and left hand if you're goofy. Where the hand goes you go.
>>190748
I grab the rail on backside waves if its steep on takeoff. The backhand seriously drives surfing.

I'd like to get into surfing, done it a few times when I was younger and really enjoyed it.

>>192335
so fucking do it bitch you're going to literally die one day

>its crowded
>shit tide
>no banks
>can't be fucked
>>192402
>ah fuck it I'll go
NTA but that post snapped me out of bitch mode

Fuck SUPs. All my niggas hate SUPs

>>192460
whats SUP

>>192430
Same, anon. I've been slacking on dawn patrol this week but went put again finally
>forecast has predicted morning waves all week
>keep waking up and going to check, keeps being absolutely nothing
>driving home after work, see a bunch of tourists on foamies catching whitewash
>fuck it, better than nothing
>actually catch some waves

>

>>192460
i thought that was just a lake/river thing
are there paddlefags on the ocean?

>>192923
>>192430
Nice one anons. I treat it like going to the pub now I just stop in paddle around even if it's shit just relaxs me and makes it feel like life isn't a waste of time. Any other office fags here? Surfing is the only thing keeping me sane at the moment.

>>193071
>office fag
im lucky enough to have my office and my apartment both within a 5 minute walk from each other and the beach, but my stress is creeping up now that the waves are all gone for the season. no better way to get through the day than catching some sweet waves before going in to work, though

>>192927
Yeah, they hide like 50ft behind the lineup and then cut off everyone and paddle back before the set ends and do it again. The worst are the hydrofoil fans though, since they do the dame thing but with a giant machete under their board

>>193321
whats a SUP and paddlefag?

>>193399
Software Upgrade Protocol

>>193321
got to use them in your favour, buddy.
tip: they see the set coming before anyone does.
so you KNOW when you have to drop in on them.
just shun them regardless afterwards.
nobody likes them, they go away.

>>193417
:(
>>193399
pls tell me

>>193528
Sexual Underage Penis
>>193202
same anon we are heading into winter im in the south of nz and its cold as fuck down here.

>riding a 7'6 55L minimal for past 6 months or so
>can catch most waves I want, addicted to the SWOOP
>find a shitty old 6'6 45L pointy thruster for cheap
>actually get a couple waves with it
>holy shit its like having my mouse on maximum sensitivity
>absolutely useless on smaller days
>paddling is wobbly as shit unless its glass
as a 75kg hungry skeleton am i trying to move forward too fast? it feels like it takes a ton of power to get this thing going, but it feels really cool when im up. still trying to find the right balance point, and it seems like i need a lot of gravitational help to catch a wave. or is my paddling just actually still shit?

Everyone said you need to go out and push yourself in bigger surf to progress and I wrote them off. Then I went out and pushed myself in bigger surf, caught a few but didn't feel too triumphant or better for it. Then my next surf somehow I felt like I progressed 6 months worth. My confidence was way higher and every wave I caught came easy, take off was simple and I rode decently (for my level). Came in very happy with my progress. So I guess those fags were right.
>>194858
Maybe you need to adjust your positioning a bit? I found minimal to similar sized board made catching waves easier for me, but I also went boogie to minimal. The smaller board felt closer to home.

>gf drags me to the beach because she wants to "surf"
>there's literally no waves, not even skimboardable

Teaching her to longboard was a mistake

>>195296
longboard chicks are awful creatures. if you love anything, you must gatekeep it. that said, dont be such a fag and enjoy the beach.

>>195438
is this a west coast thing?
In florida they tend to be pretty decent surfers overall. Much fewer women out surfing where i live though, like maybe ten or so women actually out consistently.

I hate driving and I hate getting up early, but I will drag my arse to dbah tomorrow morning.

>>195438
chicks in the lineup are cool, what are you gay
dont stare at her ass but a glance is fine
thats the only one in the lineup who can backpaddle me or cut to the peak and i wont get all heated about it

>>195929
im typically the biggest kook in the lineup so its fair to assume any retard shitposting here is of equal kook status in their respective lineups, take everything with a grain of salt

anyways women, like children, and the old get a
pass but if you are eligible you must hunt to eat

is californias politics worth the surf or am i better off elsewhere :^)

>>195438
https://youtu.be/ZbnVpC27KvY?t=391

>>195929
No idea, I'm in southern Europe, it's all a bunch of new-age hippie wave hogs but at least they hide when the waves get bigger
>>196076
Yeah, thats the point. Women know that they can get away with it, that's why they constantly snake the whole lineup, catch the wave behind you with their 9ft boards and prevent anyone else from surfing. You m'ladying them in the water just propagates the entitled behavior

>>186042
I wonder if wrapping this in fiberglass cloth and epoxy would strengthen it enough?

>>185762 (OP)
I just noticed the OP. Is that Madeira?

>>196074
I did go and got my fresh dose of reality about how wildly unfit I am, was good fun though. Some shit kid that should be at school lost his board and sliced a small hole in my suit, but at least it wasn't my fucking face.

>>196183
man it takes two or three sessions before im in the surf mode again

>>195277
Turns out I was way too far forward on it, the board has a billion times more rocker than my other one, making me think I was too far back. Guess it really is a bigger wave board, but I caught some waves on it today and felt proud. Just took a few sessions getting used to, can't wait for real overhead now

Spent 75% of my session paddling and duck diving to ride a handful of mushy burgers but it was fun and the crowd spread out. However that was my first surf in maybe 3 weeks and holy shit my arms are rubber right now.

>>197987
Based off day tryer. We had a little summer mini-swell come through and the first day I slipped, pearled, or wiped out on 80% of my waves, but the second day I was up with fresh wax and started pumping for the first time. Little things to be stoked about in the life of a shape rotator

>>197993
Nice apu. Was glad I went out. Caught a few and did a couple carves. I didn't feel like I went backwards besides fitness.

>eat poorly
>neglect exercise
>paddle out to punchy 3fters
>get ass beat
>two waves and I'm physically finished
The ocean reminded me not to be a lazy piece of shit today

I surfed for 2 hours by myself and caught many waves in the sun.
This is also now my personal blog.

How do I learn to surf without looking like a tool to other beachgoers
I tried a few years ago but kept getting flipped off the board and felt like such a loser that I went home after like a half hour

>>198771
I feel you man, I was surfing 8 foot walls in peru for 3 months back in 2022. Got fat since then and can barely use my old board. I just started over and got a soft top, I've been losing weight too. In some ways I would say I'm better now than before where I couldn't surf in onshores as well and now it's not as much an issue. Still I'm not as fast.

>>199683
Just keep going out, confidence is a mental muscle like any other. You just need to feel embarrassed enough times and you'll grow confident doing anything.

>>196084
Yes it would definitely. If they use a material like glass or carbon fiber filled nylon they will work fine with just a resin coating as well. They will be much lighter than standard fins.

FDM printers like OP used aren't great for it because they leave pretty obvious gradients like you see in the picture. It's not really the printer's fault its a slicer issue (non-planar slicing can drastically solve this). Powder and resin fins don't have that issue whatsoever, but the costs get much higher. Though a properly designed resin printed fin that's glassed would have pretty comparable costs and performance to any on the market fin.

>>199702
I'll try going at night. I'm too fairskinned to be shirtless in the day anyway
And how do I stop getting flipped forwards off the board, even a 3ft baby wave flipped me forwards. I was riding on far enough back that even my knees were hanging off the back of the board

I have a couple pressure dings where I grab my board/duckdive. Can I just pour some resin and call it a day? Lay some fibreglass cloth over? Or do I need to remove the cracked fibreglass and do a ding repair type job?
>>199683
Just suck it up, you're going to be doing kook shit for a long time. I have my moments almost every session.
>>199706
Weight distribution, timing, positioning on the wave etc. all could be factors. I'd focus on popping up to your feet in white water then move that to an unbroken wave.

>>199708
Bro I'm too old to be going through another public kookoldry phase. I did that as a preteen learning to skate

>>199716
Maybe you're not old enough

>>199683
Not possible. Everyone looks like a retard kook when they're first learning. Hell, everyone looks like a retard kook as they go up in wave size too. Beachgoers have no idea which bails are kooky and which ones are reasonable anyway

>haven't surfed in weeks
>cold
>motivation lacking
>2-3ft clean
>"Fuck it I'll go get one"
>Take off on a 2-3ft peeler and race down the line
>"That was fun"
>"Fkc it one more"
I'm back!

I've never surfed but it looks so much fun, I love swimming in the sea so I'm sure I'll like it. There's a place near me that does a surf school with an introduction to it, I'll do it this summer. The downside is that I don't live in a good part of the country for surfing, not great waves, but I'm sure it'll be fun nonetheless.

>>202141
Good waves are overrated imo. Only a handful of guys at each break are capable of pulling into 4ft+ barrels. Once it hits 6ft+ the crowds naturally thin out (myself included). For beginners especially almost any wave will do.

>>202141
But yes go do it. Get determined to learn, commit 6-12 months to really giving it a go and you'll be rewarded for a lifetime.

>>202173
kys

>>202141
same here brother
If i can manage, you can too

>>202253
Shoulder hopping kook triggered.

>>202173
>>202307
you won't get any better if you don't push yourself.
simple as.

>>186858
My current board is a Tokoro SFS, fastest board I've ever ridden by far, but it has too much lift and some times I loose control on bottom turns.

I'm addicted to how fast it is and I'm afraid to sell it.

>>202478

>>202419
What makes it fast? Low rocker?

>>202652
The tail rocker is medium-low I think. The most unique thing is that there is concave in the entire board, even behind the center fin where it's usually flat or vee.

>>202654
once I had a board with the same feature, I think it was the 'chopper' from rusty.
the deepest part of the concave was right in-between the feet/ front of the fins and not in the middle of the board.
that was just like turbo. even at the very end of the board the tail was bent from the concave.

Everything I'm reading right now, keeps bring up muh localism as being bad. How do you guys feel about that?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S2MjLnfRM4I

>>202951
Real locals don't regulate from the internet. I have respect for all locals who throw hands and none who just talk and cry.

>>202956
how often do you see something like that happen? To me, localism makes sense if it isnt already some world destination. I assume this is mostly at the best spots that are crowded. The cops kept having to deal with that sort of thing near me a bunch, and there were news articles. which is kinda crazy to me because I thought the only regulars in this spot were older construction worker guys.
I say crazy because of who they were cracking down on and because there is actual crime worth dealing with over surfer stuff.

if you were on your home and some invader came into your house and demanded that you ought to go fetch him a sandwich and a beer, but your wife will stay right there with him

What the fuck are you gonna do about it pussy?

If this made you even slightly upset, can you even imagine the level of rage you'd feel if some rat came to take you (and your brothers) wave? The key to regulating well is having a tight knit group because then outsiders just stick out; to all outsiders just come respectfully and know your place in their place. Eventually if you prove yourself you might be allowed in.

>>203016
I agree. It was just interesting to me that a bunch of beginner oriented internet articles about surfing kept bringing up "localism," and they all talked about it as if it was a mortal sin. I guess most hobbies have been gayified within the last couple decades.

>>202966
Rarely but the threat is there at many places. And because of it people don't paddle out into priority or act like clowns in the line up. Trying to regulate a popular beach is dumb imo, those are lost to the masses. But certain breaks it is needed.
I do hate guys who think they are locals but are just kooks. Had some confrontations with that sort.
>>203039
They really shouldn't be encouraging beginners to be kooks. So many of them have zero clue about respect in the line up and will receive none as a result.

>>203043
That all makes a lot of sense. Thank you.

I'm a 32 year old boomer that wants to get back into skim boarding. I used to go all the time in my junior and senior year of high school and I want to do it again. How do I choose a board? What other things should a beginner consider?

>>202951
There two things I really dislike about localism:

1 - People giving you agressive looks even before anything happens. You get in the water, wait for your turn, but locals were already behaving like territorial dogs even before you get any waves.

2 - People who "trick" you into doing something wrong. This happened to me twice, a guy paddling the same wave as me, clearly with intent of going right while I'm going left. Last second he switches to the left and doesn't warn me, becouse what he wants is a reason to pick a fight while having 5+ friends with him in the water. One time the guy even hit his board on mine, clearly on purpose.

>>203086
see >>203043
>People don't paddle out into priority or act like clowns in the line up. Trying to regulate a popular beach is dumb imo, those are lost to the masses. But certain breaks it is needed.
true
>I do hate guys who think they are locals but are just kooks.
also true

>>203086
>People giving you aggressive looks even before anything happens.
mad dogging is the warning that lets you know you could get your ass beat for doing the wrong shit and to come correct; it's nothing personal you're just not from there


>People who "trick" you into doing something wrong. This happened to me twice, a guy paddling the same wave as me, clearly with intent of going right while I'm going left. Last second he switches to the left and doesn't warn me

If you stood up first you have the right, you didn't unless it was agreed upon the whole wave belongs to the rider

>because what he wants is a reason to pick a fight while having 5+ friends with him in the water. One time the guy even hit his board on mine, clearly on purpose.

True, tough in groups but quiet alone is some bitch shit.

>>202966
>>203086
if you ever got injured by some reckless kook you would understand.
"Maybe I should have say/do something when I saw that guy kooking around"..."now my board is broken and the waves are perfect and will be for the next few days"
A fair warning is all you need to do. Communication is determined by the receiver so sometimes the message could feel more like a threat... and I couldn't care less about it.
As long as you move away from what I percieve to be a danger zone you'll be fine.
I've been surfing all my life and whenever I go to a different break I nod everyone and stay aside for the first 15/20mins. By the time locals see I surf well enough and I'm not a threat to anyone I can pretty much move around them like no thing.
A friend of mine sees the whole thing as a chess board. Some people move like horses, some like rooks and some even like queen... you need to identify yourself and move accordingly. Specially if you're a pawn.
kids... the currency in surfing is respect, and some people are millionaires.

>>203097
>If you stood up first you have the right
Where I live you have priority if you are deeper in the wave. So if a guy going right switches to the left last second he has priority over everyone else. But ofc this guy would have burned me or tried to bait me into some conflict regarldless of our positioning.

>>203117

>Whenever I go to a different break I nod everyone and stay aside for the first 15/20mins

This is what I do and the dudes still try to be agressive and pick fights. I'm not a cook, I have 20+ years of surfing. This is place with serveral cases in which police was involved becouse of fights related to localism. There is not "chess game" it's just relentless agression.

I was looking at my board about to repair a hole with a ding all repair kit, and I saw another ding. Does this other ding look like it will let water in? It's kinda smushy. I was thinking about trying to peel the circles off, and just doing resin in that spot.

>>203134
bro with a hole like that a lot of foam was probably compromised you gotta remove all the compromised foam and qcell it make sure its dry completely before you repair it and after you repair it

>>203135
The hole happened in the garage, and it's been sitting for a while. Totally dry. but yeah, the kit came with some q cell for that one. That other ding is what I wasn't sure about. but I guess if i'm not sure, I should do it up to make sure it's sealed right.

>>203136
the pressure dings, just make sure the surface is smooth, if its cracked, sand it and recoat it if its not cracked and water tight you're solid

>>203142
roger that. thanks, bro.

>>203129
well, there are particular cases, yes.

why do you ought to surf there?

maybe you just have a really punchable face, idk.

>>203129
Chile or some shithole? Some places just have cunts and either you decide to fuck with cunts or you don't.
>>203142
Not him but, for pressure dings from duckdives (dent + lots of little cracks) so I just sand and recoate? Lay some new fibreglass down maybe?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IGmaUB4CofM

>>203355

~~11 minutes is one of the nicest waves I've ever seen surfed, holy shit. like something out of a video game.

This no waves shit has gotta go

damn sexy looking board anon what are the dims? Also why dont you sleep with pillows whats wrong with you?
>>202951
localism is totally fair as is protecting borders you don't want tons of cunts flooding your spot just because muh ocean for everyone nonsense.

>>203696
The Tokoro is 6'0 x 18 7/8 x 2 1/4 and 27 L if I remember correctly

>>203160
if the spiderwebbing from the cracks can be felt over the surface of the board it might be time for new fiberglass - if you can't feel it on the surface yet its fine still

if its just dented, no cracks, nbd

Is there such a thing as too much buoyancy for a shortboard? I got an oversized 6'6 to learn on after my minimal but its 3 inches thick 46L and I kept feeling like it was stalling on the lip and didn't really want to go down the wave. Can't tell if it's because I suck at riding it or if it's just too chonky to get going

>>204340
How much do you weight? And by stalling do you mean when droping the wave?

>>204342
I'm 75kg, and yeah when dropping in it kinda sits on top of the wave and then goes over the falls

>>204364
keep paddling well after youve already "caught" the wave, tip your chest into the nose as you paddle if the wave is round to really force it into the wave, you have to adjust foot position as well, two steps forward and two steps back will change the entire feel of the board and how the rail engages, bigger boards are good for teaching that

>>185762 (OP)
Hey thats in Madeira island.
Is OP madeiran? I usually go to that spot but to spearfish, I never tried surfing seems very hard to do it.

https://youtu.be/yZENq1yDJno

Boy, I sure do hate Mondays.

>>204368
thanks, anon. it was so bizarre; i took that oversized shortboard out for the first time in months again yesterday and was catching waves one after another and riding them well (for me) too. No idea what changed from the last time i was so frustrated on it, since all ive done is mini mal in grovel all summer. Maybe the waves being a little smaller than before made me not scared to catch the wave way later and risk falling and getting pummeled.
anyway i feel like i leveled up a bit and have been stoked ever since

I'm making WEBMs to increase the hype on /sp/ when they make a surfing thread for the Olympics

>>186858
how do you compare the scifi and the cymatic?

GOOOO MATSUDA!

round 3 heat 6 tho

>>205628
yeah i think medina is a sure in for gold

Day 4 of 10ft+ around here, too big for me but I do love the energy

>>206040
bro where

>>206042
That's deadman's in sydney

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DnhvBhL1YVE

>>206040
month 4 of fuckall waves over here

From the Olympics.

>>209174
dude im on week two of progressively weakening swell and its killing me if it doesnt pick up this weekend idk what im gonna do

How do you become a big wave surfer?
Just go to competitions and win them and get enough prize money to live off it?

>>209654
step 1 be born at big wave location
step 2 be a charger
step 3 ???
step 4 profit

>>209654
>How do you become a big wave surfer?
You take your big boy board and paddle out. Hope someone notices and starts to help you. It's not a lucrative sport. These guys are in it because they are true watermen and mentally on another level to us mortals. I imagine there is only 50-100 guys making a living off of it. While thousands who probably deserve to don't.
Below is a bunch of relatively unknown guys and one pro (who kooks his wave and annoyed the locals). It's a fickle sport.
https://youtu.be/kJcdpUZqZEA

>sitting in ocean
>inconsistent waves
>dead flat waiting for set
>staring out to sea I spot black and white moving
>spot a tail breach 500m out or so
>whales? dolphins? idk
>continue surf
Found out today a beach down on that day a pod of orcas was spotted.

>>209826

my finest orca meme
enjoy

>>209826
no recorded attacks on people in the wild

>>209887
>filename
kek
>>209988
So I read after. Tbh I barely noticed them, quickly forgot and got back to trying to find waves. They seem chill.
https://youtu.be/bTIcQMwYC1o

>first day of waves in the season
>chest high
>get some good drops, but mostly blowouts or go left on rights and can't go down the line
>next day is a big wave day
>can't make it out back with my giant fat babby's first shortboard
Feel bad man. Being out of shape, and lack of ability to locate rips held me back a lot this time. Hopefully the next swell is smoother. Thanks for reading my blog

Just bought my first surfboard bros, 8’ soft top! Ready for some California waves!

>>210004
>be lazy
>get ass kicked by ocean
It's a good reminder not to be lazy
>>210142
Have fun!

>>210004
bro any literage is workable with technique

>>210004
>get some good drops, but mostly blowouts or go left on rights and can't go down the line

this one unfortunately resonates

where my aus and gold coast niggas at

>>189130
Months later and Im starting to feel like im breaking through this plateau. Foot placement was off and pumping always felt unnatural to me. Back foot was often too far forward and stance too tight due to longboarding and a rushed hunched over pop-up. Deliberately entering cobra stance before popping up has improved my stability and surf stance. Glad to have gotten support from other anons.

>>211929
Based anon
>>211319
Sydney here, surfs been shit for ages

>>186201
I go to the beach for that.

>>187415
hit the points in the summer/fall and beachbreaks when there's size

>>187489
This is terrible advice, never straighten your legs. You should have a bend in your knees at all times.

What anon meant to say is to keep in mind the compressive and explosive stages of a turn. Watch some clips of a guy like Dane Gudauskas; he compresses (bends both knees into a squat to prepare to push into the wave) in the beginning of a bottom turn, then explodes (pushes out of the squat) on the second half. This allows you to generate a lot of power and speed out of a turn, and keeps you from floating off the top. At its core, this is all that non-longboarding is; continued compression/explosion to maintain speed, power, and flow.

>>187693
you don't want to use a mold, grain direction is very important with fiberglass lamination. Large companies have sheets of pre-laminated glass they use CNC tools to cut fins out of; guys doing it in their backyards lay up some glass into a sheet, cut it out with a jigsaw, and foil the fins with a sander. Remember your PPE, fiberglass is a bitch.

>>202966
Monthly where I grew up, every three or four where I live now.

>new board, mega responsive
>steep wave comes
>ride down and bottom turn heelside
>way tighter than expected because I'm used to my old bigger, clunkier board
>get crushed down onto the board by massive G-force
>Jesus fuck, well there's no way I'm regaining balance after that
>50mph belly flop and absolutely eat shit
I love surfing so God damn much

Always wanted to surf so I bought a wetsuit and a longboard. Paddled out in pretty flat conditions and didn’t catch a single wave but had a total blast. Sore as hell the next day in so many spots. Looking forward to the journey. I love adventure.

>>186858
Can't get off my fishbeard, it's been year's now and it's so beaten up need a new one

>be me
>surf for whole life (dad wanted me to be a pro)
>win local contests but never go national
>friends go national and end up on CT after a few years
>end up going to college and becoming a doomer
>browse 4chan
>find surf thread
>happy
decided ill surf for the first time in a while because i found this, hope im not too rusty.

>tfw first crease in a brand new blade after overhead pounding session

This boards pretty magic, crease and all. I think I'll ride it till I explode it then get another in the same dims.

>>212715
You are now ready for pipe, don't hold back

>>213362
How was it bro

400 hours in paint.net, I don't know what compelled me to make this

water is warming and had a fun surf today, found a nice bank with some 3fters to myself

>>214215
this is the best post i've seen in a while

>>185762 (OP)
>thread is on since February
>is the third thread ever on se/xs/hy
>still never noticed it

>>187644
Wait ,no, this is my reply. So i did notice.

>>213377
Same here. What is your stick? My first thruster ever is a Clayton Mongrel, 6'4". I got it last November. Tore the tail clean off, then had it reglassed. Still works.

>>213362
Was dad pushy?

>>214215
Make more

>>214358
We're out surfing brah

>>214215
fantastic post I hate size fagging so much

can someone help me figure this out before i destroy yet another board
ive had it for about 5 years. i tried calling several AUS shops, its 3 am here
i just want to make sure its not a relic
it needs like 4 inches of sidewall sealed but i am in new jersey(ventnot/margate/longport)and in about 8 days it is about to get wicked
i was just going to marine epoxy and sand it down a bit to seal it
it has hand written info on the base including an AUS address
also if anyone wants to get wild call me its (six zero 9) 5694125
ill be on annapolis ave ventnor around noon till 6 dependjng on wind

>>215326
ill post base side if the four surf AUS shops i called/emailed dont get back to me
im not sure if its someones personal info or not it has an address
many waves unto you all

dumped out hard as fuck
i tried
nothing to write home about but it was still 80 degrees in the sun
hope you guys make it out there
dont be the person who says "nothing" when someone asks "what'd you do today?"

>>211929
Nice, keep working hard!

>>209988
Maybe orca victims ain't snitches.

Im going to go surfing :)

looking for a used board, is this stain an issue?

I like to consider myself as an average snowboarder and a good downhill longboarder. I can catch waves with 9' longboards.
Moved near the west coast of Japan, pic related is nearby and I figured I could use an excuse to leave the house on weekends.
>173cm, 75kg[muscular], 30y/o
All the calculators point me to 40l+ boards.
I can't go wrong with an egg / mid length / mini mal / whatever the fuck else they're called, right? Anything around 40l+ 7'+?

>>217226
sounds about right anon just grab something second hand with roughly that size, if you learn quick enough you'll want to replace it pretty soon.

>>217262
Yeah, I'm looking at cheap secondhand stuff. There's a bunch for cheap now that it's winter. Thanks.

>>217264
I'd air in the side of more size. You will catch more waves the higher litres which will equal a quicker learning curve and more fun.

>>217265
Cool, I'll go ahead and see what fits inside my car. Don't fancy a rack and I only have a hatchback. If a 9' fits then I'll go for it.

>>217267
Consider temporary soft racks that loop through your cars windows if you aren't too concerned about the paint job on your roof.

>>217267
I went a bit down this rabbit hole buying a new car because I didn't want to bother with roof racks, its surprising what you can fit
https://youtu.be/LhbsyuFUz5o

>>217269
>>217268
Yup, it should fit in my 22 civic.

>be me
>local surf is mostly blown out, messy sandbar
>get scared on OH days thanks to freefalling a bunch off of the lip
is it normal to be floating in midair for a split second before your feet land on the board during the popup? i went from my minimal down to a short-ish board, and I know the takeoff window is tighter, but the difference between not catching the wave and getting smashed feels miniscule. do you guys typically pop up as the wave is just starting to break, or are you already fucked at that point? how long did it take you to be comfortable with overhead waves?

>>217226
Ended up getting a complete beater for 180usd
>Stormblade 7' (2023)
>FCS PC5 fins, leash
LENGTH : 7' (2133mm)
WIDTH : 22" (558mm)
THICKNESS : 3.22”(82mm)
VOLUME : 72 Litters
CORE : EPS Core 3x stringers

Beefy board but I'm a beefy boy who just wants to be on top of small waves.
Diving here is absolute dog shit, so at least now I have another use for my wetsuit.

>>217323
>Beefy board but I'm a beefy boy who just wants to be on top of small waves.
Nice anon, looks like it'll do that for you.. it has fins yes?
I need a board like that for our current summer slop.

>>217363
Comes with FCS fins and a leash, not included in that picture. Picking it up tonight.

>>217375
nice, get out there brah!

>big waves
>but theyre blown out as fuck
>also its rainy and the beach is filthy
i waited all summer for this shit

anyone surf in the gulf? trying to move back to the states and find a surfable place that isnt giga expensive.

>>217550

I'm no expert but afaik the gulf of mexico has some of the worst surfing in the entire world. I know some dudes that make seasonal trips to Corpus Christi to go windsurfing

summer in nz has been absolutely horrendous so far barely any waves on the plus side I bought a dark arts surfboard anyone else surfed them? rate it absolute 10

>>217645
What feels different about the carbon fiber construction? Thinking about bugging my shaper to make me one, but a bit worried about how insanely hot it'll get here

>>185762 (OP)
LOLOL, same thread, two different contests

>>217694
not very suited if you live in the tropics.
really stiff too.

i am surfing a 6'8 45L board and want to go down go a smaller board. I am 6'3 and 75-80kg, what should I be looking at? I have no problem paddling onto waves or popping up or anything, would like something with a bit more performance. It will be second hand so a rough idea would work. I am thinking 6'3ish in the 35Lish range..

>>217863
I went from a 6'6 45L fat thruster down to a 6'2 34L-ish experimental board (im 6'1, 76kg). you'll still have to re-optimize your popup and paddling, but it was a lot easier to get used to than going from my mini mal to the 6'6. The main thing is the lack of stability compared to higher liters; when theres a bit more power in the wave you really need to have your popup precise and perfectly balanced or youre dead. I still get stuck on the lip a lot and freefall too which is a bit spooky, but burying the rail on the smaller board and slicing across the face is so much more fun i dont want to go back to the fat board, even if id be catching more waves with it

>>217863
>>217864
that is to say, I think 6'3 35L would work, but will be more noticeable that grabbing something in the middle first

>>217864
Interesting, sounds like a similar change. I think the board you got would be my minimum. But nice to know it won't be impossible. Did you go pu or epoxy? I have epoxy now but not sure about next (or too fussed).

>>217865
Yeh i got you, desu depends what pops up on fb. If its cheap and close enough I'll probs just have a go.

>>217866
if your local break is choppy, PU might help smooth the ride out a bit. I went epoxy to PU and back again, and agree with people who say epoxy feels "chattery" in rougher waves, but I still like my epoxy much more overall

Went surfing this morning on my friends board, kooked a late take off, free fell to the bottom, landed on his board and snapped it clean in half..

>>218373
get him a new used stick off marketplace

>quads excel in small waves
>quads also excel in big waves
so why would i ever prefer a twin setup?

>>219745
they're fast, but speed isn't everything sometimes it's just for the feeling

>>217869
Ended up with a PU, 6'5 22" 2 3/4. Bit more of a shortboard shape. Been out a few times and am enjoying it. No problem paddling onto waves but feels more manoeuvrable. Pretty much what I wanted. Now I just need some good waves..
>>217277
Missed this. Not really no. I found going on higher tides for bigger waves best for getting comfy. Then its just committing. If you're not quite on the wave or half ass commit you'll be caught up in the lip and the wave will drop out from under you. Then for me its just keeping my knees bent and I kind of imagine just rolling down a bank on a skateboard. I did struggle for a while to wrap my head around it, but the beatings from fucking your pop up when in the pocket are so much less brutal than free falling from the top.

>north sentinel has one of the best point breaks in the world
>but you cant surf it because of the tiny tribe of bloodthirsty pygmies living on it
waiting for some millionaire to roll up with his yacht, scoop up these little retards, dump them on a shittier island and then build his own private surf mecca

My paddling is at its best, I have moved to a smaller board and I can surf decently.
Why then do I get panic attacks in the water?

>>219986
you autismo? maybe all the people you're sharing the line up with?

>>219745
>>219764
So, for comparison sake:
Quad and twins are pretty much the same thing and both thruster and single fin set ups have a fin on the stringer.(unless you're turning or going down the line, your outer fin should be out of the water), kind of the same feeling, kind of...

>>220014
The greater the "wetted surface", greater the drag.
Quad/twin will give you the ledge feeling for having a smaller angle of attack.
The central fin would hold you on a greater angle without slipping down to the bottom.

>>220014
Do you know kuch about these 5 fin set ups? I run mine as a thruster, considered experimenting but also don't want to waste money.

>>220016
redundancy is the only word to describe a 5 fin set up.
same as multi channel quad/thruster board.
(ok if you only use 1 or 2 fins)

>>220017
I mean using it as quad or twinfin. But figured they are not placed for that. Where are these images from? They are great.

>>220023
I see...
I thought you meant that kelly slater 5-fin set up.
If whoever shaped your board decided to put five plugs on it we must assume he set the fins position so it can be ridden either quad or thruster.
For example, look at this pic >>220023
you see how much the back fin is pushed forward? That's cause it's a round pin. Super narrow end. If otherwise you put it in a more "regular" position it would turn the back fin into an anchor-hook thing.

t.shaper

>>220023
sorry, i meant this pic >>220016

Surfboard Design and Construction - Jim Knistle - 1977
The most autistic study on surf physics, hydro-dinamics, materials, design and what not ever written by Mankind.

>>220026
Fair. I'll probably just leave it for now. I think I want a twin fin fish or something for slop.
>>220057
Cool Ill try find a copy.

>>219989
What does autism have to do with panic attacks?

>>220128
yes

>>220150
Are you autistic yourself?

>>220128
I mean 4chan autism. It's probably just social anxiety and worrying about kooking it, putting too much pressure on yourself to surf at a certain level etc.

>>220157
No, has nothing to do with it. I am afraid I will be dragged by a current and die from exposure out in the sea.

>>220162
>No, has nothing to do with it.
Oh, haha.. me neither

>>220157
uh?
rule n°1 to dekook yourself:
assume you are a kook and you will always be one, to certain extend.

>>220162
My guess then is you just haven't spent much time in the ocean (because your fear is basically impossible to happen) or you're going out on days too gnarly for your fitness level.

>>220164
I agree.. but I also enjoy deluding myself that my flailing limbs is "style"

>>220165
I think it happened because one time I went out for a second time, without drinking water, then spent two hours trying to chase a weak wave and by the time I was done I was too tired to fight the current and had to have somebody help me a bit and spot me until I reached the shore. It was actually overestimating my endurance and now I regressed back in my mind. Also going out on a shorter board is kind of regressing by itself. And I had always had this fear a bit, but got over it.
It isn't an irrational take by you at all.
It actually has happened to people, there was this dude in Scotland who was out for 36 hours if I recall correctly.

>>220163
Kek, surely that can contribute to my situation as well, but it isn't the primary cause.

>>220200
Fair I have been rescued once after losing my board in solid surf. Was very scary and probably would have been it if I wasn't. Was a very eye opening experience, I didn't develop that fear but now I certainly make sure I am going to be comfortable if I lose my board and no one is there to save me.

>>220262
>probably would have been it if I wasn't

Sorry, what do you mean here?

Do you swim regularly and exercise?

>>220264
Maybe dramatic I could have washed myself up the rocks. Yes and yes was/am in good shape. Just pushing my limits a bit much and the ocean showed me who is boss that day.

>>220265
See, it's mostly on our minds. I mean everybody's minds. If you can maintain clear thinking you can, more often than not, escape sìtuations.

>>186107
The only real 2 advantages in lessons, in my opinion, are:
1- You can use boards that aren't yours to learn (might as well just rent for a few hours).
2- Here in Portugal you get more "space" and kind of feel forgiven for being in the way all the time.
Best way to learn is going with a friend who knows and has extra stuff for you.

>big fat 46L, 6'6 shortboard (thruster)
>takeoff on steep waves is buttery smooth
>so buoyant that getting on rail and out back is a chore
>slightly smaller, 6'2 35L fishy asym (twin/quad)
>kicks ass in smaller surf
>tricky to take off on chest high and above waves, nosediving machine
>if catching, outrun big waves at mach 5
is it time to get a rockered out shortboard? by bigger one isnt as responsive and fun to ride, and after borrowing a friends little 5'10 (albiet a bit of extra thickness), I was surprised how not impossible it was to paddle and catch waves on. looking for something to help get comfortable on head-high waves again (aka something to nail the takeoff on hollow waves)
Also i heard quads are good for beginners because they force you to get on rail more. I like that feeling of being right on the border of in control but that might not be smart for getting better. then again my thruster does feel like it drives itself more which is less fun, but that might just be the size.

also, are my feet disgustingly dirty, or is that just what happens to wax on beach breaks?

>>220924
>but that might just be the size.

I'd say it's the volume and the shape of the rails. I am in the same situation. Egg shapes are the best transitional boards.

>>220924
Nice boards bro. They do look rather low rockered, so I guess that could be an issue on steeper waves.
>>220959
Good observation.
Thin rails.
Pros: easier to sink into the face of the wave
Cons: slows you down through turns
Figure the exact opposite for thick ones
>>220925
wtf. maybe it's the water in your break.

>>220924
>(aka something to nail the takeoff on hollow waves)
i had a chat with a local shaper about this and he basically told me it was me. Was some honest feedback I needed. He basically recommended something in the 6'6 21" 2 3/4" range with lower rails for responsiveness (Im 6'3). Took his advice and couldn't be happier.

>>215326
Just ordered 20 hawaiian pizzas for this number.

>>217277
Two things: one, get comfortable with late take-offs. Even do them intentionally on waves you feel comfortable already. Two, PADDLE HARDER.

>>220978
well kid...
Are you the kind of person who thinks Gabriel Medina's board is gonna make you surf like Gabriel Medina?
"It's the Indian, not the arrow"
Of course is you buddy. I think any discussion about board design, length, tail shape is more about OPTIMIZATION. So optimizing your board according to your scopes, limitations and ocean conditions is more like a fine tunig... with the exception of extreme cases, sure.
Once you're good enough you should be able to do basic maneuvers with pretty much anything that floats... so get good.
>>220164
>>221005
This, so much

this thread has been up for the better part of a year
all these tourists are gonna come kill it before its birthday
thread was quiet with an average post rate of about once every two-five days, then this board book autist shows up and smashes the count through the roof in two days

>>221004
town and country rules
>>220924
I gotta ask, do you only surf frontside on that thing?

>>221190
>only surf frontside
nope, it surfs both ways but only works if youre goofy. The idea is having a longer toeside rail but a shorter heelside with quads for responsive backside turns and to address the the typical complaints of surfing fishes backside. so basically its just a fish for toeside turns and a roundtail for backside turns. not quite sure where the misconception comes form, but basically everyone in the lineup will ask the same thing which is interesting.

>>221190
>then this board book autist shows up and smashes the count through the roof in two days
its quite nice desu

>>221190
How the fucking hell did you know I had the T&C initials on the top of my tongue but couldn't remember what they stand for?

>>221194
Motherfucker do you live in Hawaii?

>>221234
I wish, I live in SEA but am planning to go home and save some money during the off season and then go be a beach bum in hawaii

>>221561
You seem to have a sweet deal there with the little skatebowl and the ocean by you. Beach bum in Hawaii sounds expensive already.

Are 5 finbox boards really the worst of both worlds, or do they work fine in both quad and thruster configs?
>>221566
Its pretty sweet overall. But the waves are gonna turn off as soon as summer comes, and living in Asia too long will drive you insane. Might as well earn and save a little money back home until i can go out and kook the waves again

>>220162
>am afraid I will be dragged by a current and die from exposure out in the sea
instantly thought of you anon..
>https://stabmag.com/news/gold-coast-surfer-hooked-on-shark-drum-line-during-mini-cyclone/

>>222299
>69 years old
>blown out by the wind
>hooked on a drum line
>he still made it back to the shore


I must be doing something wrong

getting filtered hard by duck diving

>>222596
push ups

>>220924
whats your weight/height? I'd recommend going to some kind of groverller if you want something fast and loose. Also what kind of breaks are you surfing?
>>221194
that board looks fucking gay does it actually surf alright?

>>222596
Try to put your foot on top of the tail instead of just on the board.

>>222596
with a bigger board you can tilt it side to side and sort of cut through the water and zig zag down deeper, that way its not a big flat plane you're trying to force under water.

longboarders are spiritual trannies and im tired of pretending they aren't

>paddling out
>sneaky insider
>swing and go
>lil closeout
>pull in
>get tossed
>fin smacks foot
>4 stitches later I'm here greentexting not surfing
I'm the anon who snapped his frens board not long ago. I'm having a shocker atm.

>>222896
Do you mean wave rocked, surfer shocked or is that a board model?

>>222914
shocker? i.e. shocking (bad). I am having a bad run atm.

>>222732
yeh, it goes good in groveling conditions. cutbacks are fun. If I got it again, i'd make it a few inches shorter though. I'd call it more autistic than gay overall, although it is i guess a gay fish

cool or cringe?

>>224336
Oh it looks like it was inside someone's sharpeye allright

>>224336
After my cut a few weeks ago the last thing i need is a reminder of all that blood

>>224336

won't look good on the water no matter what you think of the aesthetic

I read that in Santa Cruz, California, they have their own surfing slang. For instance, they call surfing "hauking". Is it true?

>>224336
I used to do that shit on my board for a while.
It looks good to me.

I'm in Costa Rica anons. Weak surf but nice vibe at least

Took my beginners longboard out in waves far bigger than it was designed for and it now has a pretty major crease towards the nose, so looking for a replacement.

I'm a strong paddler 180cm, 85kg, and am looking for 40-45l based off calculators. As I specifically want something durable my choices are a bit limited, but wondered what consensus was between:
Lib Tech Pickup Stick
Lib Tech Crowd Killer
CI/Torq M23

>>225017
looks cool, anon. is it some sort of stain?

>>225963
epoxy is a meme get a pu board

>>225963
just go to your local UK surf shop and feel them out. or just choose the one with the heaviest glass job

>>220164
This post saved me from myself thank you anon. I was struggling to enjoy surfing and had stupid expectations of myself.

anyone use front traction pads? I tried it for the first time, and i really like it. lets me put less pressure on my knees, letting them get less chaffed by the tailpad.

>>227512
They're decent if you're wearing a wetsuit or 2mm top, otherwise they'll rub your nipples off until you get calloused enough. I've gone the other way and did no pad on my Takayama, it's beautfiul

bondi beach a few days ago

>>227681
How the hell does one paddle out to this?

>>227728
idk bondi but I guess rocking off, same day around the corner
https://youtu.be/Kzsnkzz0GL4?si=Hcbbyr4MAbSx3jQj

>>227728
Better time the sets!

>>227955
Still, a lot of pressure!

Great session yesterday, hope everyone else is having fun. The waves were pretty small but the vibes were on point

>>185762 (OP)
Are surfskate useful or is it a meme for kookolds?
I got myself a discount yow and I enjoy riding it

>>229005
if you enjoy it, then why care?
for me it made transitioning to a smaller board much easier, and helped me get a feeling for pumping / "jumping" up the wave when skating in a bowl. just be conscious how you skate and dont develop kooky wiggling habits and youll be fine

>>228661
season is basically over where i was anyway, but i moved to my parents place to save some money. Theres no beach and I hate it

Put my elbow through my board last week, I am becoming a pro at ding repairs. Really need to stop eating shit and putting myself in dodgy positions.

My inspiration for checking out surfing rn

I think Gabby Reece is SO beautiful

How long should I surf my costco longboard before getting a real board? What did people do before soft tops?

>>233043
6-8 months, no more than 12, but also no less than 2. Unless you're goofy then double it. However if you only surf on Sundays, Tuesdays and Thursdays and sacrifice some blood to huey then he will bless you with a -3 month pass. So in theory you could go -1 month and never surf a softboard which is basically how we did it in the old days. Back then I used a friends minimal to learn and progressed to a mid-length after a summer.

>>233080
>Unless you're goofy then double it.

Goofy AND righthanded. That is the issue. I have broken the riddle. Pass it on.

>remote work chad
Where should I go for ~3 months to learn how to surf? Don't live near the ocean so I've never really surfed before.

>>233139
depends when. doesn't really matter as a beginner but somewhere warm with good winds is probably your priority. bali or that region is good this time of year.

>>233139
the beach is a good start

>>233139
El Salvador
Maldives
Bali

>>234380
Salvador has become way too crowded for beginners.

Any Space Coast anons here? Where are some good spots, preferably with not too many people?
I just took my first ever surfing lesson and I'm hooked, but the Cocoa Beach Pier was insanely busy. I got in like 3 collisions or near collisions, even though I was being very careful to stay in my own lane.

>>235878
It's getting crazy busy everywhere. I don't like how overmarketed it's starting to feel either

>>235878
playa linda
its just you and the very rare random old dudes on the nude beach just tanning their nuts in the open air; and if you think nsb is sharky wait till you're all fucking alone out there; feeling like a fucking minnow undergunned and sending out every electrical signal on the earth that says get me the fuck out- because you see that fucking monster dorito chip slide through the incoming peaks completely in and out of sight but between those two waves you see the fin getting larger and then absolutely nothing and you swear the top of body that connected the fin made the shortboard feel shorter. you think that geriatric fuck whos been fiddling with his balls in the sun for the past two hours has the sentience to even call 911; as if he's going to save your corpse from the ocean - and when you were getting in it was murky, overcast, and smelling like fucking mullet

other than that i mean as shitty as the rest of florida is and its been so flat might as well just call it honestly- chances you get skunked are so high might as well not even go out; hell maybe having three other meatsacks in the water is pretty alright but ill take my chances with a spinner over a bull any fucking day of the week take a piece of my calf, not my leg - fuck might even be better at cocoa - maybe dont go to the peer monkeynuts theres about a million miles of surf thats plenty within your capabilities stay there?