~~Magnus Midtbø is a Sellout Edition~~

>Where do I start?
People typically start in the gym and branch off outdoors and find their niche, be it bouldering, trad, sport or a mixture of the above. Some never leave the gym at all. Ultimately it doesn't matter - just get started and enjoy yourself.

>How fit do I have to be to start? Do I have to be able to do x amount of pull-ups?
Being light, strong and flexible helps at the higher levels but climbing is open to almost anyone and is fairly intuitive to most. Even if your body is feeble and weak now, you will develop strength over time by virtue of just climbing. Climbing is a holistic sport and success often hinges upon many factors, not just strength and power, but having these qualities definitely helps when you breach into the higher grades.

>What shoes do I buy?
If you're starting out in the gym, don't worry too much: get some snug shoes without dead space that don't cause you lasting pain. Some people (such as the famed shoe designer Heinz Mariacher) recommend wearing soft shoes when you're starting out -- this makes sense since your footwork will probably suck and the increased feedback will pay dividends over time. You really don't need fancy expensive shoes when you're starting out, but certain shoe properties help send harder problems (e.g. stiff shoes for standing on tiny granite edges or soft shoes for sandstone/gritstone smears).

Here are some useful resources for sizing:
>https://sizesquirrel.com/
>https://rockrun.com/blogs/the-flash-rock-run-blog/rock-climbing-shoe-sizing-guide

>Do I need Magdust/Rugne Gear?
No, most chalk you find will be good. Mammut is older, cheaper, and as reliable as they come.

>Do I need to start hangboarding?
Hangboarding is a tool used to improve climbing, but you likely won't *need* it until you've climbed for 2-3 years. Even that's generous. Just climb.

Old thread:
>>213492

Anyone have issues with committing to sketchy moves? Or am I just a bitch?

>imagine being angry that some guy you never met uses his fame to make money
nobody's forcing you to watch his videos, fag.
you can tell from the video titles if it's gonna be totally shit, worth skipping through or watching the whole video.

>>224477
It depends on the situation. Typically just send it and fall on your safety equipment.

>>224477
>Anyone have issues with committing to sketchy moves?
yes if they're higher up
>Or am I just a bitch?
also yes but I'm too

>>224502
I don't watch his videos. I am not the one seething. I'm calling a man who used to make good content what he has become - a sellout.

>>224477
no
>think up
>don't think down
ez

>>224505
Talking about bouldering. I've literally gotten concussed in my gym because they set some sketchy ass moves and always set them near the top. If you commit, you're fine, if you don't, you can potentially fall backwards and fuck something up.

>Do I need Magdust/Rugne Gear?
No, most chalk you find will be good. Mammut is older, cheaper, and as reliable as they come.

Ok well that shit is a lie

>>224566
What's wrong with Mammut?

>>224571
Oh shit my bad, I had that one confused for the metolius chalk, which is actually garbage and noticeably worse than other chalk

>>224554
Work on your falling technique. Be like a cat.

Anons what are your best recovery tips? What do you do for better recovery between sessions? Foods? Supplements? Esoteric tips? Active recovery tips?

I feel like I am not recovering fast enough after my sessions. I do take a deload week once in a while. But I still get constant minor injuries and aches.

>>224665
End the session before you are completely gassed so you don't dig yourself a recovery hole. Deload week is too long imo just don't overdo it every session and when you need it take 2 rest days instead of 1.

Active recovery, very light or light exercise, is good but you'll really want to prioritize rest. I like to do some light pulling on a decent edge every day, very low intensity just enough to get some blood flowing. Obviously if you feel any pump at all you're overdoing it. Yoga and stretching is beneficial.

Eat clean when you can, use fresh produce, green vegetables, get 1g/kg minimum or better yet 1g/lbs protein every day.
Supplement creatine and whatever vitamins you might be lacking (zinc, potassium, magnesium) but honestly if you eat well you'll really only need to add some vitamin D in the winter.

If your injuries persist then you'll probably need to strengthen those parts of your body. Keep in mind that when something hurts more than 30s after finishing an exercise you need to not do that anymore. Consult a pro. My own experience is that a dynamic warmup and static stretching afterwards helps a ton, in addition to doing specific exercises for your weak or injuryprone bodyparts. Honestly finding a serious climber without any minor injury or ache is probably near impossible anyway.

>>224554
fuck gyms who set like that. there's nothing wrong about a good old victory jug.

>>224681
There's a certain beauty in it, because outdoors, God probably sets like a jackass. I AM getting better at those sorts of climbs, I'm slowly overcoming my fear, and doing better at slab shit. So in a way, it makes you better.
>>224671
>End the session before you are completely gassed so you don't dig yourself a recovery hole.
I feel like this gets misinterpreted too often - I say it's better to climb until your performance dips. Otherwise, you might never get that dream project, because you need to be gassed *sometimes*. I stop my sessions once I can't do the crux moves anymore, even if theoretically I could do easier parts of the boulder. Then I just work on technique and stuff without getting pumped. Some days high volume can make you focus on technique imo.
>Honestly finding a serious climber without any minor injury or ache is probably near impossible anyway.
Real. At the end of the day, everyone's going to have some minor ache. My go-to saying is that humans aren't made of glass. Trust your body - if a finger feels tweaky and painful in a way it shouldn't, maybe rethink the climb. But at the same time, sometimes minor aches go away during warmup. Sometimes shit just hurts for no reason, and goes away for no reason.

Rock climbers are among the most convinced that training with ANY kind of pain will lead to their fingers exploding. That's not how it works, and I guarantee you any climber worth their shit has done some stupid shit they shouldn't have and gotten away with it. Moral of the story - Just don't be stupid, and be mindful of your limits. Tissues heal under tension, so even if shit hurts, just climbing lighter may be the only thing one needs.

>>224671
Sounds solid. Thanks. What do you think about collagen supplementation? I saw something that it fastens recovery from tendon and joint injuries. Maybe it would have positive effect on recovery between sessions too. Anyone here tried this and saw some benefits?

>>224769
I meant hastens not fastens. Fuck me

>>224770
>Incorrectly used the word fastens
Too late anon. Your retardation is showing. You're never gonna make it. I'm never going to forget this. This board will never forget this. I've already screenshotted it, and once I dox you I'm going to send it to your friends and family. Are you excited to live life on the outskirts of society?

Can't believe someone as dumb as you exists. Consider suicide? Fucking christ am I sick of losers like you who lack the fundamentals of basic FUCKING grammar. Kill yourself.
>btw collagen supplementation's a meme, not that a retard like you would comprehend that

>>224775
This man is my anxiety made manifest. Good bait though.
>>224769
Collagen supplementation is sketchy at best and useless at worst. Don't overcomplicate it, just maximize your protein intake. 1g/lb of bodyweight is a good rule, especially after intense sessions. You don't need creatine, but it definitely helps some people (myself included uwu)

>>224775
I shall promptly kill myself right after this post

>>224777
good

>>224747
Outdoors you'll often find sketchy slab or victory jugs or a desperate mantel but rarely are you doing some sketchy sideways dyno at the top. That shit is just lazy route setting.

>>224769
U're body synthesizes collagen from amino acid which is gets from the metabolism of protein. When you eat collagen your body still breaks it down into amino acids and then synthesizes it's own collagen later.

Tldr you can just eat protein, it's the same thing

>>224795
I'm talking about sketchy slab/desperate mantels. It's not a dyno, dyno, but it feels like one because it's terrifying.

In 74 weeks of x2 a week hangboarding
I have gone from not really being able to hang off a 20m edge, to being able to hang for 5 seconds with 37kg added
That's one Kilo gain every two weeks on average

>>225080
Do you also climb? If yes, has your climbing improved in any way?

I can climb a lot limes at boulder Brighton immediately than I could before
But I trust all this hangboarding will pay off in the end, even it as of yet not immediately notable in terms of grades

congrats to oda-chan on the 3rd place finish, but our autist can't be beat

>>225088
>Anon spends a year and a half training finger strength
>climbing has not notably improved
Ask me how I know you climb V4.

>>225158
Ai Mori is literally the strongest sport climber that exists, don't @ me Janja keks

>>225163
it has though
and two years is nothing

that's basically what I am saying though desu
it will pay off at the higher grades in the end

>>225088
>But I trust all this hangboarding will pay off in the end, even it as of yet not immediately notable in terms of grades
What a pity but I hope it pays off in the end!
I'm more of a system board fan, especially the moonboard but I can't train as often as I'd like to. There the hangboard has a big advantage, you can use it basically every day whenever you want

>>225095
>I don't understand why you are mad though. Are you also mad at the billboards outside? Just ignore them like you do with every type of ad
You can't ignore something repeatedly stuffed in your face. Compare how educational channels on Yt like Kurzgesagt advertise sponsors like Brilliant - it's always at the end of videos. Like the picrel you were replying to, climbers shill their shit in the beginning, middle, and end of their obnoxiously long videos.
>why you care for its price?
Because it speaks to his personality - He's a fucking sellout who only cares about profit margins. If my favorite influencer suddenly started promoting bullshit products for ludicrous prices, I'd drop them immediately.
>If you think he didn't influence the popularity of climbing by doing those videos and getting around the fitness world and collabing with other big YouTubers you are delusional.
Never denied his popularity. But clearly you're the one upset because someone criticized him and you're a fan. If you can still enjoy his content, then great! Enjoyment of something is always something that should be celebrated. But don't pretend that his content is good when you look at it for what it is - selling out to produce shitty videos. I don't care if famous people collab if those people are shitty and boring. I can recommend you good climbing channels and videos, don't watch that shit just because: popular
>Man gotta make money somewhere to do those things so what's your point?
That's not a defense of Magnus, that's just an admission that he's selling out. He's already made his money. He has his money. But it's not enough.
>More bullshit products
>More expensive prices
He doesn't care about you getting good gear, he cares about selling you overpriced bullshit because he just wants money. That's the definition of what a sellout is, like picrel that you quoted.

>>225169
>in the end
>In the higher grades
What you need right now is footwork and bodytension practice. Fingerstrength will help, but it alone will not make you a better climber. You could have ondra fingers right now and still not climb harder than V9, because you have no clue how to use your body. Don't stop hangboarding, but stop focusing on it like it's the primary driver

sprained my pulley. The pop was so loud but my finger is still functional and not in pain, but just no applications of force. Pushing any kind of button or closing the cap on the toothpaste tube hurts.
I'm thinking I'll stick to easy top rope routes that are all jugs just so I don't get too weak.

>>225241
You have the right idea. Do Emil no-hangs twice daily, on days you climb do it 6 hours before you start climbing, or after you finish climbing.

Also consider resting two full days between sessions rather than one on, one off.

>>225241
If you heard an audible pop you probably tore it at least partially, further evidenced by the fact that even pushing a button hurts. You can put a decent amount of force through a strained pulley without pain, but not a torn one.

You really should get that shit checked out

How long did it take you guys to get stronger by climbing shit?
After climbing for a few months now, I still can't do many pull ups or whatever, the only difference I've noticed is I'm not getting as tired.
Maybe I'm getting better at using legs, maybe I'm less of a bitch so I don't deathgrip every hold, but that's probably the only thing so far.
I'm not sure if I should include some gym sessions as well to get in better shape.

>>225375
You are doing pullups and hangs in warm ups, and pullups, abs, and back bodyweight exercises after you're done climbing, right anon? Reminder to also do 10 minutes cardio either before or after and stretch dynamically before and statically after. Yoga style stretching will help a lot.

>>225375
dunno, i got stronger, but i consider myself still weak. yesterday i climbed with a girl who is about halfway through the gym bouldering grades and she can't do a single pull up.
i imagine training strength would give you a boost, but personally i have more fun just climbing.

prove me wrong, you can't

>>225575
>be me
>Former College Climber in Chicago
Accurate but replace prematurely balding with vaping/smoking weed. Also: I fucking hate you I hope you die.
>tells my friend who uses 4chan about this glorious rebuttal post
>Her eyes roll and she thinks I'm shizo
>But I know
>Deep down I'll always know
>I got the plastic send
>As I seethe in the shower, words appear on my steam coated mirror
>As if the pure hatred I felt for you drew them out for me
>I fucking hate you
>And I hope you die
>The water slipping through my butt crack splashes down with immense fortitude
>"At last..."
>I think
>"My hatred has become real..."
>I summon the power of First Ascent Avondale,
>Of First Ascent Uptown
>Of First Ascent Block 37
>I summon them into my buttcrack, for one glorious shit
>Constipation finally ends
>A warm, soft feeling runs up my chest
>I literally just needed to take a shit
>Climbing is fun again.png
Hope you liked my story anons. Fuck Block 37.

why?

what's your favourite way to abuse a Grigri? i really like how this guy keeps the cam permanently open.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WBGkKqLhM8Y

>>225718
fun fact - Did you know First Ascent doesn't let you lead unless you have a grigri? Making it a huge fucking pain in the ass to do it?

>>225736
99% of dumb gym rules are because of insurance. Insurance companies admit they have very little knowledge about climbing. Likely the gym's insurance company thinks grigris are safer and gives them a discount if that's all that's allowed. The other 1% is because the owner is dumb. Local gym doesn't have slab climbing or free weights because the owner thinks they are intimidating

>>225375
Climbing will make you better at climbing, but it doesn't really make you get fit or "stronger". It does make you want to get stronger though, and being fit definitely helps. Start doing some pull-ups to failure with strict form once a week, do some push ups, wrist extensions, and facepulls a couple times a week to balance it. Add single leg deadlifts and cardio once a week. If your goal is to get in shape and look good, then you'll have to program that separately, and it can be very difficult to balance that with climbing

>>225795
>Owner prohibits slab setting
Unfathomably based gym.
>>225796
Climbing absolutely makes you stronger, what are you talking about? The strength differences between every grade become more absolute the higher you go after V5. A v8 climber will likely have much better body tension and finger strength than a v5 climber. And a V11 climber will make the v8 climber look like a bitch. Climbing is all about power-levels. Unfortunately, some people take that to the extreme and start grade chasing without trying to hone their own unique skills.

>>225375
If you don’t have a solid strength base you probably should do normal gym stuff to train your back and shoulders.

I did sports for 15 years before bouldering so my starting base was solid. I remember being able to do 1.5x body weigh pull-ups ~5reps deadlift almost 2x body weight for reps ohp 0.75x for reps etc.

After starting bouldering for 2.5 years these numbers stayed pretty much the same every times I have tested.

But obviously I progressed from being a beginner to doing v8 on moonboard. Additionally even the though 2 hand pull-up weight stayed the same I can almost do one arm pull-up, just from trying to do it for fun every couple of weeks or so. So like >>225864 says you get stronger but I feel like you don’t really get stronger in conventional movements like pull-ups. Because even if they are similar it’s not the same.

>>225173
The pic I replied to clearly defines a sellout being a leach and using a community for its benefit and then pulling out. You may not like him or enjoy his content but he is clearly invested in the community getting bigger and better. He has a platform with courses with elite athletes if you are not into entertainment YouTube vids. So I don’t know what he has to do in you eyes to not be a sellout. Besides literally providing everything he does for free or at a loss at his own expense.

He’s his merch is literally merch with added fan tax because you want to support him. Nobody cares and nobody thinks it’s the best shit you can buy just because an ad tells you. If you do then you have a bigger problem to worry about than a midget Norwegian making money.

>>225877
The type of strength acquired is different, it's isometric. I noticed the same thing - I started with very, very similar stats to you, twice bw DL, I could OHP my bw for a single, etc. But the isometric strength is what increases, the ability to maintain force in static positions and to hold that. My ability to do front levers drastically improved since I began climbing. Things like one arm lock offs, which demand ridiculous amounts of isometric strength, are now becoming second-nature as I progress my own one arm.

I'd also say back strength increases too, but it's slowly and over time. For lifters like us, it makes sense we wouldn't take much note of it, since most climbers who get to v8 without a background would probably do so instead.
>>225877
I'm the anon who posted that. And I don't think he benefits the community. Bigger? Sure. But better? Can you really say a community lured in by bullshit ads will be better? A community which lost the heart and soul of its content and replaced it with shit is better to you? Having vapid, mindless shit shoved in your face? Shit you know to be worthless. Oh he has a platform with elite athletes? So if all the celebs do it, it's okay then too?

Know something? I don't see Chris Sharma in those... know why? Because he's actually benefitting the climbing community by opening up gyms around the world and route-setting. Actually pushing the limits of the sport without giving into greed. If he sells anything, it's not 1% of the extent of bullshit magnus is pushing. Have you heard about Maglock? That fucker has the balls to sell dust for $90 a pop. And you think he has dignity?
>Besides literally providing everything he does for free
I don't think you know how ads work...

>>224477
Don't do sketchy moves

>>224554
There's a lot of macho bullshit in gyms and outside. I bailed off a 5.5 sport route because I deemed it to be r-rated. Fuck that shit.

>>224665
Just take whey isolate after a workout

>>224769
Monomethylsilanetriol produces endogenous collagen.

Has anyone gotten burned out with climbing? Since I moved to North Dakota, there's like.. nothing here. Sure there's local gyms, but it just isn't the same.

>>225979
I've been climbing regularly for a decade and I can definitely feel it creeping in. I used to be stoked out of my mind for any kind of climbing, then I stopped caring about gym climbing, then I stopped caring about climbing outdoors if the rock isn't great or the weather isn't nice. Now I only really climb a few times a year when I can get out to a cool destination spot. I also had some injuries that kind of killed my lead head.

>>225864
>>225877
>>225888
I feel like the the main issue is how the word "strength" is used and how many different meanings it has. Climbing will make you stronger at climbing. Stronger tendons and connective tissues, stronger lats and some core. Isometric stuff. But if all you do is climb, especially at a beginner or intermediate level, you're not going to look like a pro climber in terms of fitness, and you're going to hit a hard plateau when you're at the disminishing returns area of technique. Just climbing will not get you pro climber strong, or even strong by non-climber definitions if taking your whole body and fitness into account. Especially for a non-climber looking to build general strength, climbing ain't it. Pro climbers do as much or more training than climbing. You two clearly have a good strength base, but I feel like you are training more than you think. If your front levers are getting better, thay means you are regularly trying front levers, which trains them. I have a feeling you also campus climbs and do pull ups. Those are all training that not all climbers do. That's why I said climbing will make you want to get strong. You'll start working on onearms and front levers, but if all you ever did was just climb, you would never get to onearms or front levers.
>>225979
>>225987
Switch to a different discipline. When I get tired of bouldering I do sport. Tired of sport I do trad. Tired of trad I do ice. Tired of Ice I go back to sport and trad. Will likely go back to focusing on boulders in a few years. I also sometimes just put climbing on the backburner and focus on guitar or camping or jiu-jitsu or whatever new hobby I have for a bit. I find I always come back to climbing though.

>>226014
>sees an actual conversation happening on 4chan
>people acting like adults
holy shit. Fair points all around.

>>224477
Just send it, Anon

New outdoor climbing thread up on /out/. Come and post your trip reports and tell us about your encounters with snakes and crag dogs!

>>>/out/2812365

>>226436
>looks at thread
>sees
>>2812424
Kill yourself.

don't miss your head day

>>226510
my wife

>>225718
I loathe the grigri and how it's been so effectively marketed. Sure, it was the hot shit 30 years ago when it was the safe alternative to tubular devices.
But "hur dur you basically need to disable the device to use it" by holding down the cam to give out rope is one of the most stupid design decisions. Not to mention its design basically encourages you to death grip the thing (and its original instructions said to do so, and it was probably originally designed to be held like that anyway).
Birdie and Lifeguard have the right idea -- open bottom to discourage death grip, and retuned spring and cam to make it realistic to pay out rope without needing to defeat the cam (and designs that make it awkward and unintuitive to defeat the cam, to boot).
Trango has the right idea with the Vergo -- a device should make the most comfortable, ergonomic, and intuitive way to use the device, to be the correct way.
Find people fucking up with a Vergo and you'll find examples of people being pretty retarded with the device and people lying.
But people have a cult like mentality around the grigri, so I fully expect to get flamed.

>>225888
Regarding Magnus i think you are literally dismissing everyhting good he does because he rakes more money than any climbing adjacent personality. He does have climbing gyms in norway, i guess thats not enough, he has to have more than Chris. He's not a match in route setting and climbing as the GOAT Chris so hes endeavors must be in vain. He has a learning platform where he shares experiences of pro climbing athletes, doesn't matter because hes a celeb and a sellout. But also every community kinda needs their "clowns" who lure new people in with flashy videos and whatever, and when people get into the sport they can look around and see that there are people like Chris who they can look up to or whatever. I think he himself expressed how he doesn't enjoy clickbait content that much but because its his job at this point he feels trapped and has to do it

And I mean he kinda lured me because like 5 years ago i saw him doing collabs with gym guys and found out about climbing so maybe im biased but what ever.

And I don't know anything about ads but your sentiment about the guy is clearly one dimensional because I think you think he earns more money than he should.

>>226014
Regarding strength and training, yeah i think what you are saying makes sense that the isometric stuff, core, tendons get naturally stronger with climbing they have to if you push yourself enough otherwise you will hit a wall where your muscles arent big enough to move the weight of your body but everything else can. Just coming from a reverse stand point where I probably have enough raw muscles to get to something like a v10 but obviously have to build everything else makes me think that just climbing is going to be enough i guess.

I'm climbing at Unaweep Canyon near Grand Junction rn. So far have sent 2x v5, 2x v6 on first day. Trying a v9 called disconnected tomorrow. I'll be there around 9am. I'm expecting you guys to show up, don't leave me hanging I swear to God. Alright cya

>>226823
I have a theory on why just climbing works for some people and why others plateau hard and have to train through it. Not every type of climbing forces you to try hard enough to actually make gains.

First of all, there's a huge difference between trying hard, and trying really really fucking hard. I'd eager that a lot of people think their try hard is 10/10, whereas to a crusher, that would be somewhere like a 7/10. Some people intuitively know how to access that primal grit that gets you screaming and absolutely fucking desperate on a hard climb, lots of people don't.

Second, I think some aspects of indoor climbing are directly opposed to forcing you to try hard, namely the ergonomic, pain free holds, and relatively flowy and technically pleasing yet obvious route setting that most gyms get. Compare that to board climbing, where holds and small enough to hurt, moves are burly and convoluted enough to require tons of brute strength, and you already have a better recipe to try hard enough to make gains. Outdoors? That's the real shit. Not because it's cooler (it is), not because of tradition or any gay shit like that, it's because outdoor climbs have all the intangibles needed to make you try hard. The holds often hurt like hell, but funny enough this makes you grit and bear down even harder. The feet are all over the place, polished, positioned wrong, too high, too low. Better adapt or die. Finally there is the head factor. Outdoor climbing is scary, and if you haven't been scared outdoors you're a giant pussy. Outdoor bouldering at least will literally force you to hang on with all your willpower or potentially risk dangerous falls.

Outdoor climbing, and to a lesser extent board climbing has all the ingredients necessary to teach you to try really really hard. Indoor bouldering doesn't, you can try really hard, but it's not going to force it out of you.

>>226909
I'll also mention that I think this is why training really does work for lots of people: it's really easy to try hard and also progressively overload while training. Isolating something like crimping to just a rail where you pull as hard as possible or add as much weight as possible makes it very easy to try very hard. So if you can't board climb or you can't consistently climb hard stuff outside, training makes a lot of sense.

>>226909
This must be why I always injure myself on outdoor boulders

>>226907
>Colorado
I fucking wish. Have fun anon.

>>226813
I've never tried any of these other devices but I've got a couple of friends who cannot for the life of them handle a grigri correctly. I want to have a device that is impossible to fuck up. Sounds like the Vergo might be a good option?

>>226912
I really liked the vergo compared to the gri gri when I was sport climbing. Ergonomic hand position, way easier to feed rope quickly.

buying some gear because renting $20 every time I go is a wear on my wallet. How hard is it to sell size 12/11.5 climbing shoes locally? I'm picking up a pair of each for sub $50 for each pair, figured it was a good excuse to try a couple out and see which one I liked better, figured I could hock what I didn't like on the market place.

What is your guys' experience with this? Looking forwward to your response, thanks in advance.

Also, I consider myself more casual. Do you guys use a chalk bag like a magic ball? why or why not.

>>226923
>How hard is it to sell size 12/11.5 climbing shoes locally?
good luck with that one Mr. Chuckles

>Do you guys use a chalk bag like a magic ball?
yes. a great trick is to pretend to pull it out of your friend's ear.

at what point would you say you're too fat to do bouldering
I was able to do v6s last summer but I gained 20lbs over the winter and am back in the v4 noob trap

>>226923
Definitely use chalk. Shoes are a art, you gotta just play with em. Don't be afraid to spend a bit extra for good shoes, they make a big difference. Experiment with sizing; consider the fact that shoes break in and stretch.

>>226979
I'm 5'7, been hovering around 170-175 pounds for about 10 years now. I've done a bunch of v7, some V8, and a v9 outdoor, V5-6 flash level. Indoors v8-10, board climbing around v8 level on tension board 2.

I tell you what, it feels hard to progress further at this weight. I've had a bunch of finger injuries and at some point it just feels like spinning wheels while trying to get even stronger. The minute I get healthy and slowly creep back into sendage and training, I injure myself again. Paying attention to your body is easy while chilling and resting. Turns out sudden pulley pops from death crimping while being a fat ass is easy too.

I know a lot of guys my height who are 130-145lbs and honestly I'm envious as fuck because I know I would send a lot harder at a similar weight. A few years ago I cut down to 155 lbs and at the time pretty much instantly went from doing v5-6 in the gym to v9+. Gained it back.

Lately I've realized I've deluded myself into thinking you can just keep getting stronger at a given weight. At some point I realized the only thing left to do was get serious and cut for real. So that's what I'm doing now. I've coped for too long about being relatively weak at climbing despite how long I've been at it. It's time to get shredded and send some hard boulders while I still give a shit about it.

Thanks for reading my blog post.

>>226982
>Don't be afraid to spend a bit extra for good shoes, they make a big difference.
Just get cheap shoes until you are consistently applying drop knees, twist locks, heel and toe hooks, etc. Not necessarily because the shoes and techniques are interrelated, but because that signifies you've reached a certain point of skill.
Until that point nicer shoes are just wasted, providing marginal benefit, and you're going to wear the soft rubber out extra quick with sloppy and inefficient technique.
Beginner shoes are more comfy, more durable, balanced between techniques and disciplines, cheaper, fit a wider variety of feet better, and have a design that's well suited to general climbing.
Hell, a lot of high level climbers keep a pair of beginner shoes precisely because they're comfy, are generalists, cheap, durable, and work well for just a casual day of climbing and/or screwing around.
Just go to local REI or whatever you have locally to try them on and get a pair of Defy or Tarantula/Tarantulace or Momentum.
If you have nothing locally then order a pair of Rovers from Mad Rock (Mad Rock's shoes seem to do the best at fitting the most feet well and fitting right by choosing your street size, although Evolv seems to be doing good at that too these days (protip: order based on your real shoe size, not what you might actually wear -- e.g. I wear 10.5 for comfort, even though my measured shoe size is 10).

>>226983
God dammit I know that feel...
15 years ago, long before I started climbing I was at 68kg (around 150lbs).
I'm at 80-83kg (~180lbs) for a few years now, only started climbing 3 and a half years ago and mange to climb most V5-6 while projecting a few V7
I'm not motivated enough to lose a lot of weight but I'd like to know how much easier climbing would be back at my old weight.
Looks so much easier for all the guys around my height that are 10-20kgs lighter...

My shoulder got fucked and now I can't climb for a while.
What do I exercise in the meantime to git gud?
Abs? Never really felt that they limited my climbing.

>>227129
>shoulder got fucked
unironically it's over

>>225718
The gri gri is so easy to use as intended it never crossed my mind to try some extra lazy improvised technique with it.

>>226813
Eh, you can give a grigri to a 6 year old kid and they won't fuck up, will not drop their climber and will not get their hands stuck in belay during fall. You have to be an active idiot to screw up grigri.
Also it makes it easier to set routes without having to make your own autoblocker or abseiling.
On personal note, we are currently using pic related in club and it is a good cheap alternative to grigri.

>>227129
just use a hand squeezy thing or something for a while, or don't and just let it rest. either way your strength and capability will come rushing back to you fast when you get back into it but only if you let it recover fully.

>>227612
Grigri is one of the easiest devices to fuck up. Most ABD's need you to hold them in an awkward and obvious way (ie. pushing the nose up) to defeat them. Grigri you can fuck up by holding it comfortably (ie. the classic Grigri death grip -- which is the way Petzl even used to recommend you hold the Grigri).

Seriously, go to any crag and see as ~1/3 to 1/2 of people hold the grigri like >>225718

>IFSC youtube channel is now disabling comments
I caused this

>>224473 (OP)
Is there any sense in training toes?

>>227996
Probably, it would be low impact so you wouldn't have any worries about it effecting your training and climbing otherwise. Maybe something like traversing floor/wall trim

Seeking an individual in the Charlotte/Gastonia NC area to learn belaying, ascending, and general ropework from. Likely meeting points are Crowders Mtn State Park or the whitewater center.
Offering skill trade for various areas, some professionally certified (firearms instructor, etc.).
Not sure where to post this inquiry, this has been crossposted from the /out/ climbing thread.
If this post gains traction I will make a throwaway to facilitate contact.

yo chuds how the fuck do I stop deathgripping the holds

>>228060
practice during your warm up climbs every time you go to the gym/outside. literally just challenge yourself to grip the holds as light as you can without falling

paging that one anon that hates kilterboards

what's the overlap, and difference, between climbing as discussed ITT, and trial hiking, "mountaineering", and trial trekking?
If I want to reach the peak of a mountain, or walk through a mountainous valley; what's the properly called? it depends on each specific case?

>>228167
Stop larping.
>If I want to walk through ____
It's called walking

Brooke Raboutou climbed a 9b+ in Italy earlier this month. That's wild. It's called Excalibur. Only sent previously by Stefano Ghisolfi and Will Bosi. Very short and very hard lead route.
This is Ondra trying it (and not succeeding).
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KezmkjpNFG8

>>228303
i forgot the picture. Rabbit didn't post the whole video yet. I assume there is some production going on for that.

>>228303
>>228304
imagine the shitstorm they would occur if she climbs the sit start and grades it 9c+

>>228307
Brooke doesn't appear to be that kind of troll. I remember she downgraded some difficult boulder last year.

>>228303
I wonder whether she's been competing with Janja for the first female 9b+

>>228310
Janja has been projecting La Dura Dura, which is also 9b+

>>228308
Stephano Ghisolfi has said that the sit is potentially 9c+

>>228314
I think she's been working on Bibliographie more recently.
https://www.instagram.com/reel/DAnmjH8sr3G/

In either case, I didn't expect Brooke to get there first.

>>228303
is there a list somewhere that lists hard climbs and who has done them? it's pretty amazing how what was previously thought to be insane is becoming more normal, once more and more people put time into it

>>228339
>is there a list somewhere that lists hard climbs and who has done them?
https://hardclimbs.info/ lmao.

>>228340
Although, now that I actually look at it, it's pretty outta date.

>>228339
the wikipedia article is good enough and kept up to date
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_grade_milestones_in_rock_climbing

>>228380
this is good but only shows the first few routes of each grade

>>226909
Unfathomably based theory. What do you think on kilterboard versus moonboard? I feel that kilter is worse, but many of my friends see better results from it. Idk why that might be.

>>228429

Kilter is a bit more accessible and friendly to newer climbers. Moonboard definitely is more focused on contact strength.

At higher grades Kilterboard climbs just become incredibly reachy and I think the Moonboard or a good spraywall is far more valuable.

>>228525
Just had a hella good session on it yesterday, kilter def helps with my footwork and focusing on gripping really shitty holds. My friend's been using it to break into V9 territory, I'm tryna follow in his footsteps. Moonboard problems are projectable, but the benchmarks are hella hard.

>>226823
>Regarding Magnus i think you are literally dismissing everyhting good he does because he rakes more money than any climbing adjacent personality.
You don't get that I literally never cared about his net worth. I don't care if he's worth 1 mil, or 100 mil, I hate him all the same. If there are climbers richer than him, I do not hate them, because I don't know their names. All magnus does is make clickbait to draw you in, and deliver shitty content in the name of money. Stop making me out to be a poorfag seething about him for having more money than me. I'm no dirtbag, I'm from an upper-middle class family which never had trouble sending 2 kids to college. The reason I hate magnus is because his content is dogshit, his products are dogshit, and his marketing is obnoxious. Q.E.D.
>He's not a match in route setting and climbing as the GOAT Chris so hes endeavors must be in vain.
Chris doesn't shove poorly marketed bullshit down my throat. That's why I don't hate him.
>But also every community kinda needs their "clowns" who lure new people in with flashy videos and whatever,
Glad we agree Magnus is one of those clowns, but are they really needed? Like... really? That's where you and I disagree. Magnus is not some necessary evil, he's a shill who just so happens to use climbing to make his buck. The climbing community is literally worse off for it. Climbing content, on the whole, has reached a plateau of dogshit quality, helping to inspire a generation of faggots parading around gyms with their effeminate mustaches. He's making a monopoly on climbing videos, inspiring smaller channels to also sell his shit. Fuck him.

what the fuck did he mean by this? is the /out/ thread just gone now?

Oriane Bertone got a tattoo that runs the entire length of one leg. At the China cup she got second (weak field) but was very frowny and agitated about everything the whole time. AND she switched to loose shorts. It's truly over. I need a new climbfu to simp for.
>>228584
...huh. Make a new I guess?

>>228542
This here is a panty boy in my gym

>>228584
Yeah that's weird, right after I posted too. Maybe there's a new mod who doesn't think it belongs there despite it's years long run and the fact that we actually go /out/. I was going to make a new one but my ip is not allowed to upload pics. Maybe you put up a new one and post results?

>>228593
>Maybe there's a new mod who doesn't think it belongs there despite it's years long run and the fact that we actually go /out/
Unlikely. Looks like it was just swept up in whatever back end work was done during the downtime.

>>228594
it happened after the downtime though. I'll try to make another. I'm guessing I'll have to wait 10 minutes or some nonsense.

>>228593
new thread
>>>/out/2815854

>>228585
>I need a new climbfu to simp for.
No simping for Oce? The arms on that lass.

>>228634
Kangaroo strength

Top notch belaying at the Wujiang world cup. They almost killed someone again. Then they short roped another so badly it caused a disruption in the competition.

>>228842
Solid climbing by Neo though

>>228930
Yeah he did good considering

I'm consistently sending 7a+/v7, and feel like I have almost broken through to 7b/v8 (have sent a few but all felt soft), what would you guys say is the most effective training around this level? My training at the moment consists solely of board climbing, mostly the 2024 moonboard.

>>229026
How the fuck do people like this keep progressing so fast? It's been 6 months and I still can't send Moongirl (V4) on that stupid fucking thing.

>>229036
I've been climbing for ~4 years. Also board climbing feels quite different to most indoor climbing, i'd recommend starting out on the kilter or a nice woodie if you have access to either.

>>229045
Been kiltering and the progress is slow as shit compared to my friend. At 40 degrees, they can crush V7s (7a) on it, I'm still struggling on 6c. I think Im' just bad at the sport, because they've been climbing for 2 years, I've been climbing for 2.5 years.

How do you cope? I literally hate myself. Oh, and another thing - they have like crazy finger strength. I can only kilter once a week because more than that makes my fingers ache like shit. Do I max hang? What the fuck am I missing?

How long before you bought yourself Cinderella shoes?
I've tried several of the top models and just couldn't use any of them.
My toes were absolutely killing me.

>>229048
I'm not the best to ask for advice because I don't do any proper training desu. Sometimes one armed hangs and two finger pull ups on my stronger two fingers until failure, but i'm very inconsistent with it.

My best advice would be to do volume sessions on the kilter of static climbs which are well within your grade range (maybe 6a+ - 6b+), and maybe put it back to 35 degrees if you struggle with 40 and have an adjustable one. Losing some weight if you can also helps massively, I'm vry vry light (110lb) which helps a lot imo.

Also its pointless comparing urself to others, I know someone who has been climbing less than 2 years and sends v11.

>>229057
Breaking them in makes a huge difference. I have a pair of Instinct VS WMN which gave my toes blisters when they were new, but now they almost feel too loose.

>>229063
I'm 6'2, already lean, weight loss isn't an option, and at my grade should hardly matter. I've seen chubbies send harder on kilter than me (though they climbed for 8 years).

Define kilter volume sessions? I don't do too many dynamic climbs. On my projects, it's not that I can't do individual moves, it's that I pump out after doing half of them. On 40 degrees, small crimps become so shitty to hang on to, that after doing 4-5 really tough moves, I can't do the remaining 4 to send.

Maybe I should do 4x4s...

>>229074
A volume session is a session where you do a large number of climbs (~30-50) at or below your flash grade. Try to really focus on your technique.

Good footwork helps tons to stop urself from getting pumped bc it means you are using your arms less. Not really any way to train this though other than climbing more, personally I found my footwork improved dramatically after climbing for a couple of months on one of those woodies which have a shit ton of feet which are always in. Helps build up intuition about where you should be placing your feet desu.

>>229077
Thanks deska. But 30-50 climbs in a single session? Jfc. I can only flash V3s and some V4s at my gym. On kilter, it;s about the same. After 12 sends, I'm usually pumped, how the hell... do you do more than 30? Guess that's a goal I can work on desu, thanks desunay
>I typed desu, deska, and desunay

>>225575
Are you thinking of someone in particular? I think I might know this person. They used to work front desk but they moved away? 5'6"ish and very gay?

>>229133
>Giving away identifying information like that
It's just FA in general man. The people who spend too much time in there come out like those faggots in MMA gyms bragging they can wreck anyone in a fight.
The crazier part, however, is how many FA niggers are in this thread right now, workers and members alike, constantly hitting F5 so they can find a new target to project all their insecurities on to. It's honestly a trend at the Chicago gyms.
>hurr, I can't focus on the kilterboard/v17 plastic rock route/workout routine because that one guy is here! Kick him so I can realize my full potential as the next Toby Roberts reeeeeeeeeeee

>>229134
Yeha it's actually frightening to see FA staff on these threads. In case they see this - What are your guys' personal opinions on hanging trans flags/LGBTQ+ flags in the gym? Doesn't bother me, but I think it's really weird to explain to my conservative friends. Nothing about climbing is political. Never seen another gym brand hang that stuff up, walk into any Planet Fitness and it's just a regular gym (at least the ones by me). Honest thoughts welcomed.
>It's just FA in general man
I seriously feel like you're talking about specific people. Most FA climbers I know are chill as fuck, eve I consider myself one of the more "zoomer faggot" variety because if i don't get my project I feel like hot garbage for the day. I'm planning a trip to Devils Lake soon. /xs/ meetup?

>>229136
>What are your guys' personal opinions on hanging trans flags/LGBTQ+ flags in the gym?
I support hanging trans/LGBTQ+

>>229026
Keep board climbing, focus on developing your weaknessess if they're really apparent, repeat climbs that you send in a shitty way

You should also try getting on some projects that feel way out of your league. If you're sending v7/8 in a sesh, try finding climbs that would take 3-5 sessions, mix these projecting sessions into your schedule

>>229134
>some randos climb harder than you
>proceed to immediately cope and seeth on 4chan
>it...it's because they're trannies!!

o I'm laffin. I recommend dilating!

>>229141
That's cool, right, you can support it, but do you also hang that stuff at home? Do you put it on your car? Why the gym specifically?
>>229186
Oh know, he's laffin. Time to hang.

>>229188
>hes focused on the tranny flags while the same trannies out climb him at the gym
>but he's a cool guy on 4chan

LOL

>>229195
>no when you post on 4chan it's lame but when I post it's cool
Thanks for supporting trans hate anon it's okay you don't have to lie just to keep your job (one of the biologically female desk staff hates them too)

>>229204
Just think about you're saying. You go on a rant how people at your random ass gym out climb you, how you're butt hurt about it, and then you rant about how they're all trannies and it's a conspiracy by the staff (wtf?) to uhh...make you a shitty climber?

So trannies are out climbing you and you're mad about it and that's what you're telling everyone. So yeah I think you're a bit retarded!

>>229188
>Why the gym specifically?
My gym's an old warehouse and you need strong rafters to support their 150kg corpses.

>>229136
>frightening
What are you sacred of? I don't really understand?

It's really very simple why people put gay flags up. It is a signal to the type of person that is welcome and not welcome. Personally I think it is cringey and performative, but I am happy it is there.

>Nothing about climbing is political
Aint no way, real rock climbing requires strict ethics and polices to maintain access, the environment, the rock, and fixed gear. Climbers have to lobby the government to keep real climbing alive.

Climbing and using a smith machine for 9$ a month are entirely different things.

>>229245
>It is a signal to the type of person that is welcome and not welcome.
So if it's not there, Gays aren't welcomed? I fucking hate US politics, how polarized is this shit?

Back to climbing related - I know B pump in Japan has gotten ridiculously famous for its technical emphasis on setting, is there any European equivalent? Would be sick to visit someplace more local.

>>229517
>How polarized is this shit?

In real life at the climbing gym or the crag? Pretty much not at all. I've been climbing consistently for 10 years or so and I've literally never had any problems whatsoever with any climber or gym or whatever. I've never seen a single interaction between climbers where they were sperging out about politics. It's just a thing in certain people's heads.

As far as high quality gyms in the euroland, I hear the Brits have the best if you're interested in techy outdoor esque climbing.

Hi guys, gym-climber fag here. Anyone know how to overcome the problem with more crimpy overhung climbs whre you know the move is to bump up one hand, but you're using all your energy just to maintain the position that as soon as you try and go for the other move, you just let go? Thanks uwu.

>>229525
get stronger. or learn to position yourself more efficiently, so that the strength you have now is enough

>>229517
just check out all your local gyms and see which one you like. In my city one can find at least 4 distinct styles of setting.

If you feel the need to check out "youtube famous" places, go where the world class trains, like Innsbruck or Sheffield. Maybe go to Ondra's gym or Sharma's gym, ...

>>229525
If you're falling away from the wall as soon as you let go, you need to give yourself some upward momentum so that you have time to latch the next hold before your body starts to fall away. Think of it like a mini deadpoint. Sag down into your current position and use what you can to get yourself a bit of upward thrust before you go for the move.

>>229554
Sometimes there's climbs where even if you try and dyno it, you literally can't reach. The ideal move is to walk yourself up the wall and become sideways, THEN dyno, But as soon as I walk myself up, all the weight goes into my hand and it becomes too much so I let go. V6s are hard man

>>229562
What I'm saying is that you need to find a way to generate momentum from that position, even if it's just a little bit of momentum. A deadpoint is distinct from a dyno in that you're not aiming to jump to the hold, you're trying to use momentum to arrive at the next hold at the moment where you still have some upward momentum, so that you have time to latch the hold before you start to fall. You can try looking up some deadpoint tactics on YouTube and whatnot (will bosi has a good vid on this) It's one of the most important movement patterns in climbing.

>Janja on break
>team autism takes complete control of the podium

Also, if anyone was wandering where the fuck Janja is; she has decided to take a lazy year for some reason. Not injured. She says she's only doing Innsbruck, Koper, and the world championships in Korea this season. So good time to rack up a bunch of gold medals they would have otherwise lost to Janja for the top 3/4.

>>229627
Ai didn't know what to make of the trophy mask did she?

>>229525
Rest then try again, do this for 2 weeks in a row. Congrats you can now do it.

Well US bouldering has been completely btfo'd by the Brits.

>>229629
She's taking time to focus on her outdoor projects, finally. I'm hoping for great things but also tempering my expectations. Many of the skills that make her so great at comp climbing are not as useful on rock.

By the way has nobody posted about Katie Lamb on The Dark Side? Really cool milestone. I feel like there's so much momentum behind climbing right now.

>>229691
>Katie Lamb on The Dark Side?
I missed that one.
Youtube did show me this today: Hamish McArthur second ascent of a 9a boulder
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=r6lWVJrigTA

>>229693
oh and also apparently he did this in one session.

>>229693
>>229697
>One session
What the fuck? How strong is this guy?

>>229693
>11.15AM: start hiking
>12.00PM: arrive at boulder
>12.30PM: try Defying Gravity
>1.15PM: stick crux move
>1.30PM: send Defying Gravity
1.45PM: try No One Mourns The Wicked
>2.15PM: stick low crux
>2.47PM: send No One Mourns The Wicked
>3:45PM: start hiking

Absolutely unreal. Someone get this guy on a V18.

Do you guys ever eat/take protein before/during bouldering? I'd like to build muscle mass a bit but hate weight training.
I'm climbing for the first time after fucking my back up a few years ago.

>>229693
His poetry sucks, but plebbit is up in arms over Hamish, so I am pro-Hamasish

>>230062
>plebbit is up in arms over Hamish
how do you know? and why even? because he's a pseudo-intellectual faggot?

>>230075
No because they’re incredulous and can’t accept that someone who has only ever climbed a V15 can send two V17s, especially sending a V17 in a single day that has never been repeated before

Beginner climber here, my progress of suffering:
Stage 1: My forearms are killing me, can't climb a lot
Stage 2: My forearms are fine, but my arms are tired
Stage 3: My arms are fine, but my fingers are tired
Is it at this point where your fingers are tired, I should start sneaking in pull-ups?
I wouldn't care too much about getting stronger, I wanna learn a good technique, but there is this overhang in my gym, where I really need the strength for a few moves.
Also, about hang boards, does it make sense to get one if I'm already climbing three times a week? Hanging on my rest days is probably a bad idea, and I don't want to get tired before I go climbing.

>>230048
Yes. I make protein shakes with creatine. Why exactly are you asking about this? There is no harm in consuming more protein if you think your diet is lacking. The worst that happens is you fart a lot if you take to much

>>230087
How long have you been climbing for? Adding pullups to the end of your session will never hurt you, as long as you're eating right and blah blah you've heard it before
>Do I start hangboarding
Yes, but begin lightly.
>But someone injured...
Don't let the fear-mongering baked into the community get to you
>So ignore the pain?
No, if something hurts and you push it, you're a retard. But if you use your brain, you can reconigze the difference between trivial aches and times where you genuinely need to rest (the latter being very rare....)
>How can I start?
Get started by approaching a Beastmaker 1000/2000 and finding the biggest edge and getting comfortable with hanging your bw for 10 seconds. You could technically use any edge. If you've never hung before, it'll feel weird, even a bit strenuous. If you feel like you can't lift yourself off the ground, then don't push it, just take enough weight off your feet by pulling hard to engage the fingers. You'll have found the right amount of force when it feels hard, but it's not so hard you're like holding your breath and dying mentally.
>Okay, now what?
Do this once a week, at the end of a session where you feel like your fingers weren't worked too hard, or where you think you'll have a 2 day break (If hanging on Fri, rest until Mon).
>I feel comfortable, now what?
Now up the intensity. Each time you come back, pull harder and harder until
>Liftoff. I'm able to hang with just my bw, and even held it for 10 seconds
Wonderful. Now you can start doing other stuff. By now you may have noticed you feel comfortable with smaller, shittier holds. Even so, hangboarding itself shouldn't be the primary driver of progress at this moment. Just get comfortable hanging on smaller edges now, just bw. So try and get comfortable with hanging on 22mm edges, then 20mm edges.

>>230143
I'm an advocate for early-hangboarding. Just take it super, super slowly. Believe me, it's hard to injure your fingers if you're careful. Most of the gains you'll experience at this level are due to neurological ones, meaning the hardware of your fingers will be activated more efficiently when pulling. Your fingers will naturally get stronger and stronger while you climb and push yourself harder and harder.
>But redditer#1 strictly told me to avoid...
Redditers and the climbing community at large loves to play doctor and fear monger. Take it from an actual med-student - most of those fuckers have no clue what they're talking about. They like to spout anatomical terminology like proximal interphalangeal joint, A2 hyper-extension, because it gives those glassed neckbeards (and it's ALWAYS the ones with glasses) a reason to say, "Yeah, I too googled hand anatomy, I sure am smart".

Yes, the fingers are delicate instruments, very prone to injury in a very fixed set of circumstances that many climbers approach blindly. But that doesn't mean you should let the fear and anxiety push progress. The only non-gay thing redditers say is, "listen to your body". You will know when you shouldn't be doing something. You will likely get injured at some point (realistically, it probably won't even be your finger, climbers love to forget other common injuries) and will google for help. Take the advice of ACTIVE RECOVERY. It's rare, but climbers know how to rehab shit to make it work. Just take it slow, don't train your fingers too hard two days in a row, eat well, sleep well, and your risk of injury is minimized.

>>230143
>How long have you been climbing for?
Maybe 7-8 months since the first time I climbed.
At first, I couldn't go more than once a week, then there were times I was sick, etc.
I'm tall, and my arms are long(and weak), so I can usually drop some knee or find some other way around it(just dyno lol my legs are good)

Thanks for the info
>listen to your body
Yeah, I'm not being a hero, getting injured, and then being stuck at home, not climbing.

>>230162
7-8 months is not a long time. Start with the light hanging, ease into it. For now, your fingers will get stronger by doing anything, the hanging will just prepare you for stuff later down the line.

I went from 175lbs to 167lbs and went from projecting V8 outdoors to literally flashing it...what the fuck bros. I knew weight was a big factor but it's actually crazy how much of a difference it makes. I feel weightless. I gotta get down to 155lbs.

>>230229
I went from 190 to 150 literally game changing in terms of climbing. Can’t imagine trying to do V8 outdoors as a fat fuck that I was at 190 in this sport

>>230248
I've done a few dozen v7, half a dozen v8 and a few v9s outdoors at ~175 at 5'8" and I basically think I've been retarded not to cut sooner. The difference even between 175 and 167 is drastic. I can't believe how much better literally every aspect of climbing feels.

>>229136
>a trip to Devils Lake soon
Just don't be a fucking retard and have your line run across a trail. Last time I was hiking along the east bluff, some dipshit had anchored his rope on a tree across the trail, like 40 feet from the ledge. Made sure nobody was on it and then cut that shit.

I think Magnus' cool, I mean... I started because I liked his videos.

how are tensionboard grades compared to your gym grades? seems like it's not quite moonboard-level sandbagged here but still a lot harder than gym grades imo.

>>230309
He's a sellout.
>>230364
If your gym grades hard, that's good.

>>230364
The gym I frequent the most is something like
Kilterboard < my gym < tension board < moonboard < any of the spraywall problems set by locals

>>230372
>He's a sellout

How's first year of high school working out for you man

>>230401
>Guy expresses his opinion without any animosity
>Hurts anon's feelings
>"M-m-must... be a BRAT, such a highschooler"
>Thinks this doesn't make him look like a faggot
God I miss climbing outdoors. Have you ever been?

>>230513
Bro what? I was just answering anon's question

>>230513
You're the biggest faggot here by far, it's not even a competition. If it was a competition you would easily win. Biggest faggot in this thread by a country mile.

>>230048
How did you fuck your back up?

This seems like a controversial topic, but what are your experiences with max hangs vs. the new hanging two times a day routine?
There are videos about the science behind it being solid, but also people saying that max hangs are better.
Personally, hanging two times a day for 10 min would fit nicely to my waging time schedule.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Fd138M_QaVs

>>230086
Some of the high grade walls and boulder problems haven't been tried by much of the elite. There is little incentive unless it's some personal project of theirs. Unless they're local to the area that's also a lot of money and time better spent training for plastic holds. Plastic holds pay more.

>>230618
I saw good improvement after I started that 2 times a day routine. Eventually I also implemented max hangs into my sessions like once or twice a week. It's been going pretty well until I injured my finger on my project. So I stopped max hangs and do only the submax hangs for rehab.

World cup boulder semis are live

>>230618
I don't think this topic is controversial, I think the verdict is pretty unanimous - the thing works.
>>230671
According to the science video, incorporating both should also work since they strengthen fingers via different routes. What was the time between when you started doing max hangs again versus when you got injured?

>>230718
I think I started max hangs 2 months before the injury. But I don't think the injury is related to my hangboarding routine. It was kind of a weird situation and I don't really know why it happened.
I was holding a pretty good crimp in a half crimp position and my fingers started to open up and suddenly I felt something snap in my hand. But I was able to hold that crimp just fine countless times before and even right after the injury.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QzBDNkUqJVw
ganbare oda-san!

sasuga

>>230733
>>230741
Mental illness

>strutting around like she's hot shit
>extra confident because she knows it's a weaker field than usual for a world cup
>extremely smug for the entire finals
>teammate snipes you

>>230758
What happened to Oriane? Got tattoos and behaves like a bitch now.
She was such a cute french tomboy :(

>>230760
Apparently falling early on the olympics lead wall mind broke her

>>230758
Naile had a great finals but Oriane still lost that in the dumbest way possible. She burned two attempts on the final boulder just faffing around with the starting position.

>someone ejaculated all over the sink in a First Ascent genderless bathroom AGAIN
I hate this job

>>230878
Sorry bro, that was me. I've been using lots of zinc + iodine while projecting that fucking white V3. The mere sight of whiteness, caked with the smell of my sweat, turned me on so much I just had to bust one out to the cute asian girl who flashed my proj.

How much are "performance" shoes supposed to hurt?
When I'm trying them in shops, if I stand in them they are tight to the point it's uncomfortable, but still OK, however when I try to step on some hold, it hurts like a bitch.
I know they are supposed to get better, and my feet will get stronger, but I don't know by how much.

>>230916
I've gone through maybe a dozen pairs of aggro shoes in my ~8 years climbing. I can say that it depends somewhat on the shoe you're buying, and it also depends on how many times you've gone through the process of breaking in shoes. My first few pairs were very painful at first, I could only do one or two warm up boulders before I had to take em off. A week or two later and they were pretty much fully broken in. Nowadays I can put on a pair of downsized aggressive shoes and while uncomfortable, I can climb fairly normally right away.

If say if you can complete a few climbs in your shoes of choice, you can very likely finish the break in process and have a comfy aggressive pair soon after.

Why are they so slow at adding new BMs to the 2024 MB

>>228339
https://climbing-history.org/

Sorry to be asking the usual retard questions but I've been indoor climbing for 2 months and I'm struggling to find a shoe. I know right now it doesn't really matter but I'd just like something that's not super hard but not super soft and not something that's super aggressively downturned. I was looking at the Kubos or the Veloces. Are they decent choices or should I just get a pair of tarantulas and not worry about it right now.

>>231022
>Newfag
>lmfao has some gall being new to this
Imagine not knowing the answers to these questions. Kys faggot

>>231022
Noone can give you an answer to this, the only thing that really matters, especially right now for you, is fit. Find one that fits really well, buy that.
Scarpa has a chart like this so you can at least narrow it down by foot shape, other manufactures should have that too.

In the end you won't get around trying a bunch on though.

>>231023
Sorry my autistic split personality took over and was rude. Basically, just go with Turantulaces. If money's no object, go with top things like Flagships, katanas, or solutions. But honestly any shoe you decide on will last you. At this level, you're going to focus more on skill advancement and getting stronger footwork/forearms. Turantulaces are cheap, reliable, and super durable for indoors and outdoors.

Naile is hotter than Oriane, simple as.

Also worth noting that you will never actually find climbing shoes that actually fit so just snap up the first ones that are good enough.

>>231022
>indoor climbing for 2 months
I just went with 1 size down tarantulas cause they fit and are comfortable.
My next pair probably will be kubos since the fit is almost the same as tarantulas, but are more sensitive(hurt more) to feel better some holds. I tried a bunch of other "better" shoes, but honestly, they just hurt a lot, and I don't think suffering every time I stand on a small hold will make me a better climber.

>>231033
I'm a Maddie Richardson man. She is the sneaky kind of hot like girl who always wears baggie clothes but you see her at swimming pool once and it's a whole different ballgame.

After two years of climbing (literally nothing) I am starting to stick my thumb over my index finger almost involuntarily , , to hold pretty much anything
This looks and feels like a game changer
I have been doing 20mm max hangs for approaching two years but only in recent weeks do i feel like I am actually starting to use my grip strength without even thinking about it really

>>231041
>they just hurt a lot, and I don't think suffering every time I stand on a small hold will make me a better climber.
It will, because your toes will develop callouses/thicker skin, allowing you to wear those tighter shoes and apply more force onto smaller holds more effectively, while thinking less about it. Just give it time, your feet will get used to the pain, and it will get to the point where you may even downsize as much as 2-2.5 sizes to get the uber-snug fit that brings out your potential.

For now, you made a fine choice, but don't think that avoiding foot pain is something you should do forever. Just gradually ease into it. Also, shoes have a break-in period, no shoe hurts as much after the first week.

>>231047
Shit tier bait. Try harder.

>>231063
How is doing 20mm max hangs for two years worthy of this kind of disrespect?
I am literally keeping climbing alive

>>231062
>Just gradually ease into it.
Yeah, that's my thinking. My tarantulas are getting a bit too comfortable, so I'm thinking about getting Kubos to keep me on my toes(heh). Or maybe I should try those no edge if they have a good shape.
But at the end of the day, I need to build volume like practicing anything else and me crying in the corner after two boulders in performance shoes will not make me better than climbing ten boulders in something more comfortable.

>>231065
The thing with performance shoes that fit your foot well is that they break in enough to be completely comfortable after a few good sessions.

>>231022
>Kubos or the Veloces
Both great, I love the Veloces but if your footwork sucks you will wreck them pretty fast which gets expensive fast.
>or should I just get a pair of tarantulas
No absolutely not, Tarantulas are shit.
Literally the worst shoes there are

>>231076
>Tarantulas are shit.
>Literally the worst shoes there are
Why? I'm just trying to learn here. I've seen people even in rented tarantulas climb some very impressive boulders, so me not being able to climb shit in them seems like a skill issue, not a shoe issue.

>>231084
Just get whatever fits well and size it so it wont stretch too large after some use. Preferably get a cheap pair since you will wear it out fast due to bad foot technique, the rubber and aggressiveness really doesn't matter at your skill level

>>231084
Tarantulas are a bit shit production quality wise, especially compared to other LaSpo shoes, but anon is exaggerating. I've seen much worse shoes around.

If you have decathlon around their own brand is also fine for first shoes, if they fit you

>I've seen people even in rented tarantulas climb some very impressive boulders

Yeah a better climber will climb harder with worse shoes compared to even a slightly worse climber with good shoes, especially in the gym. This kinda changes outside depending on rock type, standing on some microedges with shit shoes can be a huge pain

>>231064
>I am literally keeping climbing alive
Magnus is doing that

>>231084
>Why?
I exaggerated a bit like >>231088 said, but there are better beginner shoes.
>I've seen people even in rented tarantulas climb some very impressive boulders
Obviously, good climbers will climb hard stuff even in bad shoes.

>>231076
I ended up going with the Kubos since I managed to find them locally in my size. They were discounted too due to them being last years colours which made them the same price as tarantulas. Shame the colour is awful but whatever.

Good gifts for bouldering people? It's my friends birthday soon and I want to get him something bouldering related since he's been really into it for a few years now.

>>231129
By introducing this sport to the worst possible losers alive

>first 5.10c outdoors
Feels good brahs

>>231211
nice, got my first moonboard v8 today
success in climbing is sweet

>>231210
Ye u

>>231196
Chalk. Get him a few bags of friction labs or magdust or something like that.

>>231262
You have down syndrome, Zion Midtbø

>>231196
a nice brush
one of these sandpaper gizmos to sand down your calluses
a lifting edge for training pick ups or warming up on the go
hand cream
shoe bananas

i accidentally bought a bouldering guidebook for the other side of the country, should i return it or spend 20 hours driving and spend my summer there...

>>231308
Buy your guidebooks at the local gear shop to the area you dumb tit

>>231267
Seconding chalk. You cannot go wrong here and it's a funny gift.

Where can I find some good exercises using resistance bands and ideally nothing to hook them on to?

>>231302
A nice brush is nice.

They just added a 7A, 7A+, 7B benchmark each for the 2024 mb. Get on it anon

>>231761
one of my gyms switched their 2024 setup for the 2017.
I don't like it :(

>>231844
What the fuck, why would they do that. 2017 is the worst set.

i mostly climb in an oldschool gym, and i noticed that when i go to a new gym, my fingers sweat a lot more. the current hypotheses are that either the new holds grind my skin quicker which makes it sweat more [citation needed], or that when i go to a new gym i rest less between boulders, not leaving time to dry my fingers.
anyone else noticed this?

>>232068
>Flashed
>After 9 attempts

Classico

>>232101
>le day flash XDDD
I fucking hate climbers

>>232101
>>232178
Both of you are retards seething at nothing. The dude never said he flashed it, he said he got it first try his second session. Are you stupid? You act like you've never done that before. He didn't
>le get it the second try that session
>Nor the le third time
>He got it his first attempt
>le second session
fucking chill, there is literally nothing to seethe at. Unlike Adam Fraudra, pretending like he got that V16 in 4 attempts, of course there's nobody to confirm nor deny he attempted it 100 times beforehand.

>>232213

>>232218
Oh. Well shit. Right then, carry on.

High volume sessions are the key. Noticing strong improvement by going two days a week for 3.5 hours rather than 3 days a week, 90 mins each. Lots of rest in between sessions means I can go all out.

>>231024
Second this. Good advice

>>232232
This post speaks volumes. I know how to read.

>>232234
What...

Climbskin heals my hands faster than lotion-maxxing and using O keef's hand cream. This shit is golden.

god I love the cheekbones on that curly-brownhaired setter at a certain FA gym
I want to cum on your bald spot
I want to feel the length of your beard against me as I ride you after a v4
I want to take your sculpted adonis body and ruin in with my fellow boyfriends, slinging our liquid chalk in your mouth over and over and over under the kilterboard
Setting makes you a whore, we all know
so smile when you come into the gym next time, I want to ride them pillow booty cheeks until your begging for me to take up slack
Jaw open, sexy. Every time I see you, know I'm imagining your mouth spraying beta all over my meat screw

>>232248
>Has enough free-time in the day to think about writing this
>Has the opportunity to reflect before actually making it
>Still decides to post this shit on 4chan.
I mean this in the politest possible terms; get help.

Will Bosi climbing that Excalibur 9b+ thing in Arco. This route really sucks. By that I mean it's not flowing or pretty or anything. It's just really hard and painful crimpy suffering the entire way. I'm even more impressed Brooke Raboutou managed it, having a closer look at what's involved here.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hZS2IWZLmqg

>>232310
>Actual climb starts at 12:00 ends at 15:18
>The rest is onions-reddit content to pad out the runtime to get adbucks on YouTube
Typical youtube slop. Just watch the only relevant part of the video. Saved you 13 minutes of your life you'd never get back, silly goobers.

>>232313
Bosi is a goofy kind of person, it cannot be helped.

>>232313
way to be a joyless fuck

>1 year climbing
>stuck in that V5-ish level that so many other people fall into

feels bad. just seems almost freakish how people are able to do some of these harder climbs. is it just a "getstrongerlol" situation that I need to overcome?

>>232320
it's dedication, time, and frequent review of technique issues. for me it was fastest to identify the thing i suck at most right now then drill that until it was a little better at it. identify the next weakest area, work on that and so on. main thing is you do want to have some kind of improvement strategy. you can get hard stuck really quick if you're always just trying to get better in a general sense without a plan to it.

>>232320
you're not stuck, you got baited by the gym, realistically gym V5 for most gyms is outside V1.
Getting better at climbing is the same as getting better at other stuff. "Just climb" works, if you don't just climb, but consciously put an effort into getting better.
My personal suggestion is regularly get on shit that's at least 2 grades harder than what you do, and try to do moves.

>>232299
Every time you whimper or moan on the kilterboard, I'll be there
Keep on pressing your body as far as it can go, my little short king
Every breath of exertion, or moan of success, I know what you're working for
It's not to be good at climbing, we all know where you actually rank
It's so your buff bear body is in perfect condition for me to slide my mayo-covered salami sausage in after a hard day's practice
Don't complain, you wouldn't want to be anti lgbtqia+, wouldn't you? It's not like your some bigoted boy who hates his trans co-workers and is need of an attitude re-adjustment, right?
Post your bald spot and I'll stop lmao

>>232361
>realistically gym V5 for most gyms is outside V1.
not everyone is american.
but sadly the trend to set soft indoors is taking root here too (central europe)

>>232320
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kq5Xku0Ipuo
here's adam ondra falling of a V3 to cheer you up

How long should it take to get to V4? What should I prioritize? I've plateau'd at V3.

>>232395
Prioritize getting on v4-v6 for at least part of your weekly climbing volume. When doing these harder climbs, ask yourself why you're falling/can't do a move. Don't move on to other climbs just because you fail a few times, I see beginners make this mistake all the time, they try a climb slightly harder than their flash grade, fall once or twice and then move on. Don't do that.

General actionable tips:
-Make your warm up useful in some way. A challenge I like to give to newer climbers is to do their warmups while gripping holds as lightly as possible. Many new climbers get into the habit of death gripping the shit out of everything which seriously hampers their endurance and ability to actually send. Other things you can do for warmup are games like high feet, make up your own dynos, root your feet hard unto holds while keeping arms relaxed, etc

-Learn how to generate an keep tension throughout your body. This is a deep topic so for now I'll give you an actionable tip: curl your toes inside your shoes. This is a trick that transforms your foot game from simply placing feet onto holds, to being able to actually pull and most importantly generate lots of tension through your feet. Curl your toes (flex your foot) when it's necessary to keep a foot. Conversely, learn to relax your feet after a move that requires a ton of tension. You don't need to have body tension all of the time. Learn to modulate between lots of tension and relaxing.

-Dint be afraid of training your fingers early on. Many gyms don't set easy climbs with holds that actually stimulate fingers enough to make significant strength gains. This is most likely why so many new climbers plateau around v5-6, the easier climbs aren't crimpy enough, right around v5-6 climbs incorporate much more crimps, and the transition is sharp so many plateau here. Training on a hangboard is safe and effective. You can do some simple bodyweight hangs for now after your climbing sessions.

>>232395
what >>232427 said is good advice, but I have a question: do you ever try hard?
The biggest difference I see between people that progress quickly vs people that get stuck is that some people just don't know or never learn to try hard.
This helps for learning, but also you get much better muscular adaptations at high RPE, which are easy to reach when weightlifting, but pretty hard if you're just leisurely climbing up the wall.
You wouldn't train for olympic sprinting by going for a relaxed walk, would you.

Been climbing for around 3 months now and I'm starting to really struggle with slopers. Other than climbing more, is there any off the wall training that will help?

>>232650
For training, you should look into training your wrists. Arm wrestlers train the absolute fuck out of their wrists, their techniques would be applicable. Training 3 finger drag would also improve your sloper game as it's the closest grip to the one you usually use on a sloper.

Training aside, there are a few things you can do to improve how you approach slopers.
-Get underneath the sloper as much as you can. The whole thing about straight arms applies especially to slopers.
-Squeeze your hand. Don't just place it on the hold. Play around with actively squeezing slopers, sometimes you need a lot, sometimes too being too active will just tire you out, but in general you want to actively try to close your hand.
-Play around with going into a crimp or psuedo crimp on a sloper. Some low angle slopers are best utilized this way, but very rounded ones won't be crimpable.

>>232320
Are you actually repeating V5s you have sent? I have talked to people who have been in a V4/5 plateau and they all uniformly stated they never repeated a problem. They would project a problem until they send it and never do it again.

>>232874
Nta but I totally forgot this was even a thing I used to do. I think that's really because I haven't cared about improving for a long time now. No I'm not particularly great, I've just changed my mindset to enjoying the session after suffering injury after injury a few years ago (not all of which were climbing related)

>>232714
>Some low angle slopers are best utilized this way, but very rounded ones won't be crimpable.
I would elaborate on this with the realization that unlocked slopers for me: the main goal with crimping or doing any other kind of weight distribution on slopers is to get as much force as possible onto the least sloped part. This is a lot more important and nuanced outside, but for example in the gym if the hold is rounded, you want to be engaging your fingers hard so your weight is on the flatter back part as opposed to the more sloped front. Force placement is kind of like a subset of hand placement, always be thinking about it.

>>232874
>They would project a problem until they send it and never do it again.
That's very strange to me. If I top something I still work on it for a while longer to try to tweak my beta to make it cleaner/more efficient. It's rare that I don't find something that makes it way easier to repeat.

Anyone here watch the IFSC climbing comps?
Because I don't, usually, and I gotta ask, are they always this full of wank?
https://www.youtube.com/live/J5QtctB5Bpg?t=780s
>We're really trying to just push design and, uh, create a bit of a 'feeling' for this weekend. We've pushed in a lot of different ways ... Sometimes, uh, pushing the provocation can be a really nice aspect.

Bro, just put some holds on a steep wall and let the athletes pull hard.

>>233161
>are they always this full of wank?
No. This season had actually been unusually good until the Prague cup. The guy on commentary is a route setter and he sounds like one of the major problem people on the team. Completely oblivious to how ridiculous it sounds when he says he wants to elicit reactions and tell a story. When a setter says he's trying to tell a story it means he's intentionally tilting the difficulty in certain styles because it looks cool to him on camera and/or he's setting against certain athletes. I think there's a fair case this setting was designed to be unfavorable to Sorato. None of which has anything to do with adequate separation among the rankings. This was horrendous separation.

>>233161
>can't watch Prague competition from Czechia
Amazing geolock
>Bro, just put some holds on a steep wall and let the athletes pull hard.
Fucking this, it's already hard enough.

>>233161
Prague was particularly bad. Watch the salt lake city world cup from last week, way better

>>233161
The way to interpret this 'provocation' stuff is that they knew it would be poorly received and chose to set that way anyway. The International Federation of Sport Climbing needs to pull their heads out of their asses and ask sport climbers what sport climbing is about and then refocus on that. Sit down for a bit and think about why they exist at all.

>>233065
>get as much force as possible into the least sloped part
thank you anon

>>233358
>The International Federation of Sport Climbing needs to pull their heads out of their asses
Need new leadersip for that to happen. These complaints have been the same for several years. Nothing is done. Their issues with broadcast quality are the same. They always outsource production to local teams at each location. That's why the shot selection and even technical production like consistent display of the scores/clock can vary wildly between world cups. Some local teams obviously have little experience producing sports broadcasts, they film the thing like a commercial or action movie. That's why all the super close up shots that deprive the audience of a clear view of what the climbers are actually doing. That's why shaky cam dutch angle for some reason. There was a lead world cup last year where the guy making shot selection was doing quick cuts on the live feed like he was trying to film a martial arts scene. All of this can be fixed by hiring on a dedicated team that tours to every venue on the circuit. Same guy on sound, same guy on direction, same on production etc. every time. If they gave that they can comsistently fine tune the production and respond to complaints. They cannot respond to complaints now as their response is always 'yeah well we get whatever the local team gave us, we told them off, sorry'. Then it happens again. Over and over.

you just know IFSC route setters have dick measuring contests with their routes and probably snicker to themselves seeing competitors do impossibly hard climbs. they also need to tone way the fuck down with dyno climbs

>>233161
>>Bro, just put some holds on a steep wall and let the athletes pull hard.

It's really hard to separate elite athletes that way and you'd get a bunch of pulley ruptures each comp. I also don't like all the parcour stuff, but we have to lose the illusion that setting board style climbs is a viable option for comps.

Popped my A4 a few weeks ago. It's still swollen and hurts a little bit but this week I started doing some light climbing (spamming all the V1-4s in the my gym without really resting). Anything else I can be doing to help recovery? I do some light hangboarding but I don't really have a protocol to follow... I simply hang for a while. Is there a logic to what I should be doing on the hangboard to improve finger strength? Only issue right now is that with the injury I'm not supposed to let the pain go above 2/10 and so I don't know how to "progressively overload" the hangboarding stuff.

>>224665
Creatine fixed every fucked up tendon I had, and I had them all. I say fixed but you still have to rehab them, using light weights, stretches, rolling etc.
You will put on some water weight, don't chomp that shit down like a retard, no loading and small dose only.

>>226909
Read this post.

Dave Macleod says that just understanding what trying hard really feels like IS hard climbing. He teaches people that are already really good and strong to do that, and they had no idea how hard they could pull.
12.00 onwards, all out and he can't fall off.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KJWAzUOvDEI

>>233457
Bern is better so far. Men's coming up later today. Women's semis was great. Finals was a little questionable due to two undercooked sets but a single excellent boulder (W3) saved the day on separation.

Also way to go Erin McNeice on getting golds in both lead and boulder this season. The list of women who have done that is short.

>>233161
>Anyone here watch the IFSC climbing comps?
Yeah, Bern men finals atm
I kinda hope someone gets injured so they finally stop setting retarded coordination triple double dynos with cheese

>>234204
>I kinda hope someone gets injured so they finally stop setting retarded coordination triple double dynos with cheese
M2 was stupid. Every setter on the team knew that thing would produce dangerous falls on the spin move in the middle. They knew and they said fuck it.

Been climbing around 4 months now and my forearms/biceps always feel extremely tight. I've even lost a bit of ability to rotate my wrists outwards because my forearms become extremely tight. I've also started to get a pain down my right arm as if I've pulled something after a long session which has persisted for a month. It's not a serious pain, just nagging. Are there any stretches or exercises I should be incorporating on a weekly/daily basis?

>>234296
Take 2 weeks off climbing, learn some warm ups and never skip them, and climb less frequently for a few months. So like twice a week instead of three times a week. You have to let your tendons recover and it takes forever, but leaving them alone is as bad as overdoing it. Don’t get motivated by pros who say they climb every day, you aren’t a pro. I’m also not a doctor so this may not work at all.

>>234296
>Are there any stretches or exercises I should be incorporating on a weekly/daily basis?
yes
non broshit Youtube sources who know things:
Hoopers Beta
Lattice training
this guy
>>234094

This is (You)r reminder to DOWNCLIMB. You aren't a teenager anymore; don't put excessive force on your knees just because your favorite eceleb climber is vain and refuses to be seen rolling onto their back after falling.
>>234354
I'm not saying it's all bad but Lattice absolutely regularly promotes unproven quackery like "carcing"

>>234296
Sounds like a good start to tendinitis. You should do lighter and fewer climbing sessions. Your tendons are struggling to recover.

>>234385
I've only been climbing twice a week and have recently been doing 1 day. Climbing around V5.

>>234387
Look into an exercise called "Tyler twist". Those along with bicep curls fixed my elbow tendonitis. The curls probably aren't needed for you, I needed them because I was overusing my brachioradialis and under using my biceps, but the Tyler twists are recommended for anyone with elbow tendonitis.

>>224477
just go up the rock bro

>shoe sizes across scarpa models are completely different even with variation of the same model
this is so fucking gay, is the only way to buy shoes online to order every size +-2 of what you think will fit and return the non-fitting ones?

>>234642
This is generally true for any climbing shoe brand.
>is the only way to buy shoes online to order every size +-2 of what you think will fit and return the non-fitting ones?
Yes. Or see what shoes your local gym has in stock.

>>232237
I never got any benefits from all those skin products. I find my skin heals the fastest on its own and when it is exposed to air. Maybe my skin is just more moist naturally I dunno

>>234373
I’ve never found anything from lattice to be useful. It’s always over complicated advice from climbers who haven’t done more than indoor v6. Although I like their hangboard
>>234642
The EU needs to standardize shoe sizes or something because each brand and each model within each brand are different. The old evolv zenists are so different from the new evolv zenists they shouldn’t even have the same name. Corpos must hate selling climbing shoes because of this lmao

>>234833
>I’ve never found anything from lattice to be useful. It’s always over complicated advice from climbers who haven’t done more than indoor v6. Although I like their hangboard
When I tell my friends this exact same thing, they laugh at me and tell me I just gotta use my brain more. As if to imply that you need a PhD to understand basic things like - moving your hips in helps. Climbing in general has fostered this psuedo-intellectual movement of over-explaining things to try and seem like an expert. A prime example -
>>234400
>I was overusing my brachioradialis and under using my biceps, but the Tyler twists are recommended for anyone with elbow tendonitis.
No they're not, what the fuck even is a tyler twist? I looked at this video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DUfLc4n3ygg&t=50s
Even the dude explaining it says "It's a complicated exercise." Fact is, most random rehab crap will fix tendonitis, it's not that difficult to fix, and you attributing your recovery to a retarded movement then rationalizing it by saying "oh my brachioradialis was underutilized" is the most unbelievable cope. When you give poor advice like
>You should do lighter and fewer climbing sessions.
You are part of the problem in this climbing community. Part of the fear-mongering. Part of the psuedo-intellectual movement. Outside of the context of an anatomy classroom, you using anatomical phrases looks cringe.
>>234387
Tendonitis happens due to overuse, but rest alone usually isn't sufficient to fix it. Tissue heals under tension. Due fag-twists, or light bicep curls, whichever you prefer, but just use the tendon. Hell, even just doing air curls with no weight just to stretch my tendons helps with flareups (I can reliably do chinups with 80 lbs added and have no problems).

>>234296
Anon, please ignore this faggot:
>>234341
>>234385
>>234400

You've only been doing this sport for a few months, any idiot telling you to take a 2 week damn de-load and to move into a "rehab phase" must be on crack. Odds are you probably haven't irreversibly fucked yourself in the span of a third of a year, and most of your issues can be fixed by being smart about it. What movements trigger your issues? Are your sessions super long? There's going to be a time where even after re-habbing, you have some residual pain or discomfort, and that is a normal part of the healing process. What matters is that week to week the pain lessens. Any idiot who thinks "durr I have pain, better not get off my sofa because I might break my achilles" probably has never climbed outdoors, and definitely hasn't tried hard. Sometimes crimps hurt. Sometimes holding a position feels like dogshit. But you're a (presumably) man, built strong, and you have the ability to recover.

Look into random rehab stuff, keep climbing at least twice a week (1.5-2 hour sessions are fine), but if you feel confident doing more, then do more and don't let some internet fag give you rehab instructions. I'm just a guy. I speak from my own experience recovering from strains and tendonitis of all types.

>>234296
My guess is that you need to do some antagonist training. I had something similar when I started. Going from no training at all to training only pulling muscles lead to basically those same issues. You need to train the muscles that oppose the motion too, at least a little. Adding in some pushups and some shit I made up like trying to lift the edge of my desk with the backs of my hands sorted it out.

>>234094
20 minute video of Ondra flashing this dropped yesterday, and it's great.
Never been done before on E11, and this one is a potential death fall.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SAUyrDLG5xM

>my favorite trans qt3.14 is setting a route
>masturbate in the gender-neutral bathroom
>wash off most of the sperm, but leave a few droplets on
>immediately hop on the route after the setters are done
>grind my semen-covered palms into the holds, immediately pop a stiffy
>see her and her friends climbing the route later
>immediately hard as a rock thinking that their hands are touching my sperm
God I love this gym

>>234914
>my semen-covered palms
Bet you're used to that, gay boy.

i bought a few second hand cams quite cheap, but the label on the sling says 2010, which i think is the date of manufacture and i obviously don't want to trust a sling this old

what do people do with old cams? is it fine to girth hitch a new sling myself? black diamond won't resling them for my country.

>Hello. If its your first time here, welcome. And, if you've been here before, its good to have you back. Lets take a moment to relax and notice what's within us.

Can we not discuss the world cups until next year? Please, I never watch them live and re-watched them on my own time. In the meantime I still want to shitpost, but without getting the results spoiled. Yes? Great. Thanks guys. Now, in accordance with that, what did you think of Anastasia Sanders getting her first win last season?

>>234911
There is no question that this guy is the goat. Fucking crazy to put your life on the line like that when you've already on top.

>>235187
Don't use a girth hitch it breaks low when it's directly on the cable. This is a good reference: https://youtu.be/M19taMAZHp4?si=emRVXWIrEGThax4_

I just use a double fisherman's with rated cord

>>235187
I don't know about slings, but I recently did an ancient Friend 2 with a 5.5mm dyneema cord loop. Got it from Needlesports, one of the best shops in the UK. This from their site. If you buy dyneema from any shop get at least a meter for each just in case, you have to tie a triple fisherman's in dyneema. I did it with 0.75m but it's a small loop.

https://www.needlesports.com/Catalogue/Climbing/Rock-Trad-Climbing/Cord-Tape/Beal-Dyneema-Cord-55mm-Blue-per-11-metre-for-Nut-and-Hex-Restringing

>>235187
>>235242
I'll add that this seems to be a good option... basket hitch with tubular webbing over it or whatever else you want to use to secure the ends and prevent misclipping
http://www.kakibusok.plus.com/Equipment/ReslingCams/Resling.htm

for some reason I was hit by an intense feeling of anger after flashing a difficult route today. 100% opposite feeling from the normal elation. maybe I unconsciously thought that I should always be climbing at that proficiency? by the time I was down I had gotten over it but I've never experienced such a strong unprompted emotion before

>>235342
Indoors or outdoors?
Outdoors, you're angry because of the sheer arbitrariness of it all. If you were going to ascend whatever wall you were at, you probably wouldn't have picked that route. Maybe there was another route that was more scenic, or that fit your style more. You want to climb something else, and forget about this pain-in-the-ass one. Congrats tho, anon. I'm sure it was a toughie. Let the anger guide you to new heights.
Indoors? You're angry because you wasted lots of your real life, grinding and burning, all to ascend some plastic toy grips. You're wondering if it's really worth burning out your life, just to join all the other hollow-eyed v8ers whose main pleasure is telling other gym regulars they will never be as good unless they do some oddly specific workout, and lie to yourself that you could go pro if you wanted to. Come on anon. If the plastic makes you angry, why waste your life on it?

>>235379
Copypasta-tier post. Never change.

>>235400
Copypasta means it's a message worth spreading. Beaides it's pretty noticeable. Actual pros tell people to have fun, explore the outdoors, and just enjoy it. Wannabe pros are the faggots who say shit like "oh you didn't compete in random contest #287? You're not a real climber then like me ur just jealous I can climb a v9 on plastic >:("
I accept your concession, nigger

just went bouldering for the first time, completed a 5a and failed 5b, AI says it's V2
it was extremely satisfying experience anyway, I love it

>>235237
>Anastasia Sanders getting her first win last season?
She has a very nicely defined thigh gap. With the increasing popularity of loose shorts in women's comp climbing I am sad to say it's a rare sight now.

Innsbruck qualifications for boulder are complete. This is Janja's return to competition to the season. Nothing remarkable about the quali aside from Janja apparently botching the first boulder. She qualified in 5th for semis. For men's, Toby Roberts finally put in a good qualification round and moves comfortably in to semis. Toby must have been injured earlier this season. Multi uncharacteristic low placements.

>>235530
>Toby must have been injured earlier this season.
Nah, his mental game sucked but hopefully he's back in the game now.
Needs a new coach instead of his father

>>235538
>Needs a new coach instead of his father
If you go on Oriane Bertone's youtube channel there is a short documentary on her basically about how her dad was her coach and there were daddy issues so she switched a professional coach. Toby's dad might be harder to shake off though. That man is at all practices and all comps always. He is a sport parent.

>>234844
>Muh cope!!!

My brachioradialis is over utilized because I have a severed tricep which also fucked up my bicep. You're a moron and a dumb bitch

>>234911
Ondra's catalog of content over the years is uncontested
>>235436
Copypasta-tier. Never change.
>>235472
Right on mate. Ultra-fun and nuanced hobby.

>>235472
hell yeah man that's not bad for your first time. climbing is a uniquely satisfying activity imo. keep at it.

I think I'm gonna get into board climbing since the holds feel way more challenging to hold than any of the big plastic holds at the gym. Can do V5 overhang set boulders but can only do V3 on the tension board

Quality broadcasting from the IFSC
[spoiler] Although, it is filmed by Australian state TV. I don't actually blame them for focusing on their own athlete for a moment. They were pretty good through the rest of the comp. [/spoiler]

>>235629
by far the best way to train, good decision

Fucking hate climbing.
I'm way stronger than when I started, yet I still can't climb shit.
Despite fancy shoes and my toes killing me, my legwork is still shit.
Still can't commit to sketchy moves even indoors with mats everywhere.
If I take off a few days, my skin looks like shit.
My fingers still can't hold me on stupid holds.
My coordination moves are still toddler level, and I can't use more than 2 limbs at the same time.
It's all such a bullshit... Anyway, I'm gonna go tomorrow again cause I'm dumb.

>>235658
Ask me how I know you've climbed for less than a year.

On the off chance you climbed for more than that - Just grind it out. Bitch and complain when you stall for months at a time, rather than just weeks. Climbing improvement takes time, and also gyms grade differently. Work on body-tension thru feet by doing shitty slab and try shit you can't climb.
>Skin hurts
Use climbskin and fucking lotion during times when not jerking off. My hands can go from bloody messes back to working shape in a weekend with proper skincare.
>Can't do comp shit
Who cares, that stuff is retarded anyways and you're never gonna see outdoor dynos with slick holds.
>>235596
Ah, so you have your own medical issues, but want other people to train (or not train ig) as if they had the same issues? You don't see how that's retarded? Should we listen to the old broken spined gooner about why squats are bad too? Or the guy with a busted shoulder about how pull ups are toxic? Stop holding others back just because you're dealing with your own problems. Hope your shit gets better though. Wagmi

>>235660
You're basically telling everyone ITT to only listen to your anecdotes. Ok I guess, but that shit worked for me when nothing else did. Despite my severed tricep I still climb decent, I have done v9 outdoors and regularly do v10 indoors. Mantels suck.

>>235658
Have you tried mag dust or dare I say, maglock? You can use my code to get 15% off and you're guaranteed to climb 2 grades harder or you're gay, so it's a win win!

Wow these men's finals boulders look like absolute ass so far

>>235664
My budget already went to AG1 please understand

>>235666
Sadly that's modern comp bouldering now

Boulder 3 and 4 are pretty sick tbqh

God I hate the Fr*nch

>>235663
Why would your anecdotes hold weight over mine? Vice-versa? I think everyone's injury journey is valuable to know, and you sound like a hella strong climber to make it that far despite the fucked up arm, glad to hear it.

My issue is with the stupid fear-mongering that's rampant in this community. The over-reliance on rest without trying to understand real injury is what gets people stuck in this depressing injury death-spiral. Having been injured myself, everyone told me to lay off for nearly 6 months, and it did fuck all. Only by actually being smart about it did I manage to get past my own issues. I'm glad you're doing the same, but stop relying on the "just rest for fucking MONTHS" mentality. Unless there's an honest-to-god serious injury like a full pully rupture, or complete joint/tendon failure, most people do not need to stop climbing, and those who do will not need to do so for nearly as long as the internet thinks you do.

I've met competing paraclimbers who've been through far worse than you, who are sending hard. Despite what people think, the human body is capable of amazing things if you play it smart.

>>235687
>Unless there's an honest-to-god serious injury like a full pully rupture, or complete joint/tendon failure
righto buckaroo, go ahead and climb on a fresh pulley strain. have you heard about H-TAPING BRO? you're totally good to go so long as you h-tape at the start of the sesh.

>>235704
>buckaroo
Anything you said after that has lost all validity.
You're the loser who posted this right?
>>225575
Enjoy climbing at first ascent gyms and seething about zoomers for a living.

>>235687
Hey man, no where in my post did I tell that lad to rest. I told him to do an exercise that helped my tendonitis when nothing else did.

>>235677
Did you know the French are good at slabs? The French are good at slabs. Why are the French good at slabs. There are lots of slabs in Paris. Note that the French are, in fact, good at slabs. You will be reminded again next time. About how they are good at slabs.

>>235771
being a commentator is a terrible job, hours and hours and hours talking about the same thing over and over again

Setting in the women's final was really good. Better move variety and less gimmicky than the man's had.

Imagine volunteering to brush some holds at a climbing comp and suddenly you've got athletes flinging themselves on top of you, crotch first. Poor guy. I bet she was really sweaty too.

>>235798
Slab and cordo were boring.

The crack boulder was good. The girls struggled a lot though. Reckon it was just the wrong size for most of them?

Annie downclimbing and just resting on the boulder at the end was amusing. Looked like she'd given up on the comp and just wanted to see if she could make her obviously wrong method work.

>janjawinslol

>>235802
how many grades do you gain by huffing prime janja sweat? he should post feedback about long term effects

>>235715
ur just mad you could never make it in a first ascent gym
You're the real loser

>>235802
>Reckon it was just the wrong size for most of them?
Hard to say. It looked okay on camera but at the angle they needed maybe it was. Hand jams have appeared in world cups before and a lot of the guys showed they didn't have a good grasp of the technique. The one i remember was in a men's final. Could be a mix of both issues.

>>231210
It's pretty gay how you think Magnus is somehow the gatekeeper of sport climbing. Kinda gay...

>>235829
Y-y-yeah man, he's the real loser
>secretly seethes about that one slab V4 I couldn't get at uptown
>Walks home to dilapidated apartment,
>cute climber gf waiting for you
>"Any good news?"
>No
>You say with a sad, depressed look in your eye
>I... think they're gonna take it down tomorrow, so I can maybe send the next project
>"Oh... sure babe, I'll always love you"
>You see a notification on her phone
>It's from zoomerboy3000
>Hey didn't we meet him at Red Rocks that one time we went because we only go like once a year because we're in IL and there's nothing else to do
>"Yeah but we're just friends..."
>What're you guys talking about?
>"I'm going to bed early tonight"
>You try to spoon that night but she pulls over the blankets
>It's cold
>You dream, seeing the slab, seeing the crux
>IN your dreams, even, you just can't make it up
>You see zoomerboy3000 kissing your gf while he looks right into your eye
>He approaches you
>"It's just body tension bro"
Lmk if you want me to write a part 2

About the hand jam boulder, there was some extra information about that during lead semis earlier today. Oriane was on co-commentary for a part of it and the subject came up. She said those wood holds are unusually slippery. More slippery than ordinary plastic no-tex, according to her. That's probably part of the problem. I've done hand jams in no-tex holds before and for me it was usually okay as long as the surfaces were completely clean. If it's an extra slippy surface with some chalk residue I can understand why the women may have found that near impossible to deal with in a 4 minute time limit.

>>235912
>Lmk if you want me to write a part 2
You should kill yourself now.

Is tokyo powder worth the money?

>>235912
Give us the part 2 anon I love you
>>235946
holy fucking kek we got one of you FA retards good
Seriously, what good is a gym where regulars essentially brag about bullying people out
It's always the ones who make climbing their entire personality too. That's what you retards consider real climbing? Niggers
>be me, an FA climber, can climb around v6-v9
>I'm special because I have training regimen that combines gym and bouldering
>it's totally not something every guy who goes there 3x a week can do
>have a girl who's totally into me
>she has a boyfriend and they're engaged
>but I can tell that one v6 I got 8 months ago when they were setting soft makes her wet
>doing my usual v9 project, to catch the rookies 'mirin
>even though signs say not to beta spray, I'm special
>shout constant stream of advice and advanced terms at them so they know I'm superior and they're inferior
>point out to first-timers they didn't actually finish because they didn't use two hands every time
>other people are trying routes once or twice before backing away from the wall to share
>I however am special, so I try 8-10 times before letting other people have a go
>make loud sighs when other people try stuff in the same section and interfere with my perfectly regimented plan
>that way they know they're dealing with the guy who's going to be the next Adam Ondra
>about to pull another legendary practice, my gains this session will be massive
>but then I spot my archenemy from the back
>if he wasn't around, I would climb so much better
>seriously, how dare he not follow my training regimen, practice less than me, but still be good at the sport
>oh wait he turned around, it's some other guy who looks similar
>it's all still my rival's fault, I'll be sure to gossip about him later as revenge
>FB stalk that loser later on because it's military strategy to spy on your enemies
>he's uploaded footage from some church ping-pong tournament where he placed fifth
>lol at how much he sucks

>>235975
nah. the best chalk to value ratio is unironically the old school frank endo chalk blocks. a slightly better chalk is friction labs/magdust, you will notice the difference if you're already an advanced climber, but it's a small difference for a large price increase

I sware to god if I see one of you niggas at my local gym I'm pulling you off the wall when you're cruxing on u're proj

>crtl+f chalk
>14 results
every damn thread? pure magnesium carbonate is all you need. most pros use Mammut or equivalent; don't give money to influencers unless you get off on that or something. every single source claiming magdust is the best is sponsored, obviously including that 2010s edgy faggot on youtube.
>b-but Silica Silylate
you don't need it. Magnesium Carbonate is more than enough and it lasts on your hands longer.

>>236077
There must be a name for this phenomenon where every online hobby discussion becomes overrun with gearfagging. At least we only get shoes and chalk here because no one does anything but indoor bouldering.

I trust everyone enjoyed the detailed close up shots of hands and feet from Innsbruck this weekend.

>>236099
spending money and obtaining new thing = dopamine

>>236099
When you get older, money is no longer an issue. Time is.
You still like your hobby but don't have the time you used to, so now you overcompensate with new gear.
Same reason, older people that start a new hobby roll out with the best gear.
Hard-core kids should be grateful as the second-hand market is funded by these people.

>>236100
mfw they cut to an athlete's ankle tattoo as they approach the crux

>>236121
The multiple occasions of cut to closeup of a hold during a jump were very exciting. What's the rationale on a shot choice like that? If the climber fails you won't see how they failed, all you see is the hold on the wall there. If they succeed you just see a hand grab the hold.

I WILL get better at climbing, I swear it. DOUBT ME NOW.

>>236275
If you don't scream, start. If you do climb scream, do it louder. This is important.

>>236275
There is only a finite number of ways you can mess up. Bruteforce ahead, brother.
Our head is stronger than some fake rock.
WAGMI

>>236275
I am doubting you. I hope it helps you get better.

I'm the shittest climber itt
Was having a friendly competition with my gf's cousin at the wall a while back, he's almost as shit as me and neither of us could do this particular route
I fell off right near the top (can't do the last tiny section) and apparently while I was up there he was whining to the girls that I only muscle my way up, that I abuse my height, and that I have big thick thighs
What is the correct response to this?
(he gave up and came off before reaching the last section)

>>236725
>abuse height
Short climbers literally have every advantage, I can't stand being a tall-un watching my friends mog me at slab because their COM is fucking tiny and lets them stick to walls like spiderman.

>>236725
>What is the correct response to this?
Flex at him

I know there was a good resurgence post-covid, but do you think the climbing boom is finally dead? huge if true.

>>236725
after doing a move he was unable to do, turn around and smile while still on the wall. this is really basic stuff you lil' bitchboy.

>>236725
>I only muscle my way up, that I abuse my height
Standard manlet cope.
Those fuckers literally have it easier yet they always are the ones bitching.

>>236792
No, new commercial gyms are popping up everywhere. If you want to go back to the obscure climbing scene you have to start climbing old scary crags outdoors. Climbing still isn’t what I would call mainstream but it’s no secret anymore
>>236796
Height is an advantage but that’s just how it be. but I do love seeing short men complain about reach and then they have to witness a woman shorter than them flash their project as a warmup

>>236725
pull him off the wall while hes climbing and give him a bj (to assert dominance)

Watching that Canadian youtube chick relentlessly come 20-46th is oddly addictive. She literally does this for a living, all fucking week and all year and will never make a podium but continues with goodwill anyway. It humanises how difficult climbing up those plastic shape things really is.

>>236848
Maddie Richardson, right? I watch her youtube channel, too. It's a grim insight in to the endless suffering of the middle tier. Good enough to get in to world cups, good enough to make semi finals regularly, apparently just never quite good enough to make finals. In Maddie's case I wonder if a different coach might be enough to get her in to finals a couple times a season. Quite a few boulders she fails are due to misreading the beta rather than physical/technical limitation.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VF05NpdBnTg

It's a sharp contrast to someone like Erin McNeice, who works very hard in training but doesn't seem to truly believe she's that good, is still surprised that she actually wins things sometimes.

Is there any point in doing wrist curls to increase clooooombing ability? The forearms are my weak pointy but idk if I recover quickly enough from climbing sessions to fit in dumbbell forearm exercises.

>>236982
I found wrist extensor curls helped with my tendinitis. I guess they helped balance all the work my flexors were doing climbing.

If they don't want to get rid of the permanent speed route could they at least make a second category that has different routes every time? This is so boring.

>>236938
Yeah her.
'the endless suffering of the middle tier' yes this sums up the appeal. If she was terrible so what, but she's genuinely good. Her last 'it's too hot and I'm Canadian' is perhaps a low point, and she'll rise up as she understands that everything is a problem and she needs to solve them all fast.

>>237197
>Her last 'it's too hot and I'm Canadian' is perhaps a low point
I think Maddie was probably sincere about that. Outdoor plastic climbing facilities are very rare here in the leaf so even when it's fuck off hot in the middle of summer they're still training in the indoor air conditioned gyms. Of course she could climb real rock in summer to train that.

bros, I think it's time to get a normal gym membership for my health and to stay functionally strong. year after year of climbing I'm more and more convinced that the negative health effects of climbing (eventual injury and neuropathy from climbing shoes, arthritis, climber hunch, "bad" shoulders, weak legs being desirable, etc.) are all factors that I don't want to put up with anymore. I work a demanding job and at some point enough is enough. I'll still climb sometimes but definitely going to swap out my membership for a regular gym.

>>237241
farewell anon
Climbing is fun, but as you can see in this thread, it can get extremely toxic
Especially indoor city gyms, you really see how they're just /fit/fags in denial
May your fitness journey lead to strong gains and a healthy body

>>237241

Why isn't there a single downturned shoe that doesn't obliterate my feet? I've tried literally every model I could find, if I size them up they're super sloppy with lots of dead space and feel like rentals to climb in, if I size them down they are so incredibly painful it's hard to stand in them. People say they're meant to hurt while I break them in, so I bit the bullet and bought a pair of katana laces (barely even downturned), and the only effect was that the big toe on my right foot is now fucked up and clicks painfully, while the shoe is not any more comfortable. Although I did fly up my project on the first attempt in them. My finales feel like they're starting to hold me back because they just roll off any small edge on slab, but I don't know where to upgrade from there that isn't chinese foot binding. TC pros? I would feel stupid in them I don't even do trad, I barely do 5.12a sport.

>>237387
>TC pros? I would feel stupid in them I don't even do trad, I barely do 5.12a sport.
Whatever works. It doesn't matter what they're technically intended for. I don't subscribe to the idea they're supposed to be painful.

>>237387
>they are so incredibly painful it's hard to stand in them
Climbing noob here that bought his first pair of performance downturned shoes.
I also tried like all the models and basically all had too narrow toe boxes, so no matter the size, I couldn't fit my fingers to the end, which made it extra painful.
Once I finally found some that fit snuggly, it still hurt standing in them in the shop, but standing on demo holds wasn't as painful as the other shoes.
But yeah, like the first week, I was just putting them on for a few minutes to mold them and it hurt like a bitch.
The first few sessions after that also hurt a lot.
It took like a month till my toes got stronger and the shoe got softer.
Now it doesn't hurt. it's just a very tight shoe.
I still wouldn't want to walk in them, but I can do several boulders before taking them off.

>>237418
I put a solid month of climbing into them (3x a week) and they still were painful where they press into the top of the toe, as well as permanently fucking up my toe so it hurts even in my comfy sized up shoes. I get that they're mean to be a bit painful but there's no way it's supposed to be like that.

Due to a genetic foot deformity I cannot wear climbing shoes. There isn't a single conventional climbing shoe made in the world that would fit my feet. It's completely fine for most stuff that doesn't involve slab tiptoeing on tiny little chips. I can't do that kind of slab at all and never try. I just wear ankle braces so I can heel hook without shredding my achilles and heels. Barefoot is worth trying if you're mainly in to climbing for the exercise. Keep it to boulders and lead walls with large footholds and you should be okay until your soles toughen enough to go smaller.

>>237241
>negative health effects of climbing
Oh boy here we go
>eventual injury and neuropathy from climbing shoes
>...from CLIMBING shoes.
How much of a pussy do you have to be to get Neuropathy (defined as dysfunction in peripheral nerves) from SHOES. Do you have Diabetus? You're retarded if you blame climbing for it. Okay, so hint 1: you're a fat fuck.
>arthritis
Bro what are you on about. Do your wittle joints huwt? Probably from popping too much tylenol everytime your period comes you fucking baby.
>climber hunch
What the fuck even is that. Did your parents never raise you to have good posture? This is another sign you're just a fat fuck.
>"bad" shoulders
This loser puts bad in parentheses because he's talking about himself and nobody else. Doesn't even elaborate just
>Le "bad"
Only people I know who had shoulder problems literally had some fucking weird ass bone deformity, and they still manned the fuck up and sent shit I could not.
>weak legs being desirable
So in addition to being a fat fuck, we know you climb V3 plastic rocks and have an intellectual disability You're a retard if you think legs aren't the most useful part of this sport. Strong legs lead to strong foot/body tension for literally every type of climbing. Nobody is telling you not to squat dumbass.
>etc.
Oh please do go on. Keep whining. Then before you know it, you're gonna say the same thing about how bench
>huwts my shouwders
and how squatting
>bawd for my wittle knees... uwu
And that you stick to cable machines and shit because
>deadlifting huwts my joints.
If you want to lift, fucking lift. Most climbing gyms have a dedicated gym anyways. But I bet the real reason is that you're such a bloated fat disgusting fuck that you're embarrassed to work out surrounded by all the little chads. Your life is fucking worthless and nothing you said make sense. If you died tomorrow I would be enthralled.

>>237342
The less losers we have like him, the better.
>>237387
>I don't know where to upgrade from there that isn't chinese foot binding.
Go up and down half sizes. Shoes can hurt for awhile, but if you're torturing yourself you're being dumb. I prefer slight pain, enough to endure for a couple of problems, but beyond that...

Also, do you keep shoes on your entire session? I just take mine off between routes.
>>237505
>Due to a genetic foot deformity
I fucking loathe losers like you who have the gall to come to our sport and bitch about your God given defects.

Why? What is this shit even good for? It's not usable as a spray wall so it's just an expensive waste of space?

>>224473 (OP)
Doing my first multipitch tomorrow with my retarded autistic friend.
I am also retarded and autistic.

>>237464
Just quit pussy. Shoes hurt till they dont. You either kill the nerves over time or you adjust to the pain. Downsize 1 to a half size from street shoes. If you can't handle that just stick to rentals, tc pros, or trantulaces.

>>237525
>come to our sport and bitch
Whole point of my post was to say going barefoot works pretty well in the majority of climbing applications so you don't necessarily have to buy in to the pain of Big Shoe.

>>237626
Fair enough.

>>237525
>Go up and down half sizes.
I downsize 1.5 sizes in my flat shoes, I obviously take them off between climbs. But downturned ones go from being unusably painful at 1 size down, to being unusably sloppy at 0.5 sizes down where there's just tons of dead space and my whole foot moves around, there's nothing in between.

>>237524
>Strong legs lead to strong foot/body tension for literally every type of climbing
found the years-long permastuck v7 commercial set v4 board climber. profoundly embarrassing writeup lil' bro

Watching the bouldering WC on TNT

>>237735
Did you seriously just attribute climbing plateaus to... strong legs? Are you retarded?
>Literally all the V8+ moonboarders at my gym do pistol squats like it's nothing
Do you know how strength works? What keeps you on the wall? Or do you subscribe to the /r/twoxchromosomes advice that even looking at a barbell the wrong way will make you bulk up into a massive meatball, unable to climb anything?

>>237524
Oh look another FA nigger
Go on and jerk with your "homebois" while shitting on newbies and pretending you'll be a real pro
Also apparently some dancing opera twink cucked more than half of your strongest climbers at fucking v2? kek

>>237774
I'm not even shitting on him for being a noob, I'm shitting on him for giving up on a sport for retarded reasons. Can you read boomer-fag? Also can somebody please tell me why the fuck First Ascent keeps getting mentioned, I'm from fucking California, we have Movement here. Dogpatch is pretty sweet too.

>>237803
Movement and dog patch are lame (bay area trash) hanger 18 (Los Angeles) and alpine (Sacramento) are better. GET NUKED

Noob looking to start bouldering to get into rock climbing and finally mountaineering by next summer.

Can I use my vibram 5 finger barefoot runners to start as climbing shoes?

The OP just mentions to to start using soft shoes that will give feedback since my footwork will suck - no shoes give more feedback than barefoot shoes.

>>237811
you don't need to get into bouldering or rock climbing in order to do mountaneering

you can climb with whatever you want, there's people that climb barefoot. the kind of shoes you mention are probably better than barefoot, but worse than climbing shoes. you should also try actual climbing shoes, rent them for a couple sessions at a climbing gym. i expect you will end up buygin them because they will allow you to climb higher grades

>>237811
m8 just get some cheapo climbing shoes

>>237803
What is First Ascent and why is it bad? I don’t climb in commercial gyms, if it’s a commercial gym. Otherwise this must be some kind of Reddit tier inside joke

>crash pads at a really big sale in a store near me
i was thinking of just getting a cheap one for my 2nd pad but this is really tempting, im kind of new to bouldering so would i get much out of splurging on a really good other pad?

>>237841
Did you ever play sports in PE, and there was that one nigger actively roughing up the nerds and going hard against girls to delude himself into thinking he's NFL material?
That's not all FA climbers, but it is a lot of them, including staff especially past the v5-v6 level. It's a combination of a lot of things.
>city-based commercial gym
The less outdoors around, the more climbers look at numbers and judge other climbers to feel a sense of self-worth. They regularly host competitions, and I've noticed in states with real rock climbing, most everyone treats it as a game (because it is, it's a gym comp) but for cityfolk, these competitions are life-and-death. They get even more mad if you don't compete, because then they can't just judge you on numbers
>big asian community
Look, asians are good at sports and climbing, no lie. But they also have that "if you're not first, you're last" attitude that's spread throughout the climbing community, as well as that grindy optimization mindset that takes out a lot of fun. You're 25 and climbing v7s, bro. That's good, but you don't need to waste your life on it
>trans social warrior activists
All the gyms have trans flags and positivity shit spread around. Is that bad in and of itself? No, but it often invites the mindset that one is superior or more enlightened because they believe in George Floyd or all that other SJW bullshit, which often involves looking down on others for not agreeing with everything you do
>snooty, elitist staff
The ones just there for a paycheck are okay. But some have convinced themselves they're heroes of climbing, and actively judge and trash on others. Some FA setters even go out of their way to badmouth random climbers they've decided to hate. One of them threatened to choke out a girl for drawing flowers with chalk on the wall. (R, you're a faggot btw)
In sum, FA gyms are okay, but large parts of the community are pumped full of ego and narcissism.

>>237852
>asians are good at sports
Lmao.

>>237855
You should see Block 37, man. Worst FA gym out there
>bunch of asian dudes on v6-8s
>all of them scream about how their special $300 shoe or moonboard technique makes them better than the rest
>they could totally go pro if they wanted to
>they all get an intense hardon for bullying newbies and lecturing them for hours
Uptown's pretty much the same, but they're white and mexican there, so they spread rumors behind people's backs instead. Witnessed a whole bunch of them talk about how they're going to beat up some japanese-colorado guy, but whenever he shows up, the most they can pull is girly passive-aggression in the corner and brag about how he's not as strong as them in some arbitrary metric or skill.

>>237852
Hilarious if true. v7 at 25 is impressive if you never climbed before age 25.
>rainbow flags
Climbers have always been liberal tree hugging vegan hippies so that's normal
>everything else
I'll stay out of the cities thanks

>>237855
at made up sports, which fits climbing

>>237863
How autistic do you have to be to believe in half this shit. Been climbing for years and occasionally hit up uptown and block, but I have NEVER seen these people.
>bunch of asian dudes on v6-8s
Why the fixation on asians?
>[at Uptown] they're white and mexican there, so they spread rumors behind people's backs instead
How? Literally how? Are you among those friend circles? Or are you some creep who eavesdrops everywhere because you're an autistic loser with no friends? You come off like one of those high school kids who makes up drama for the sake of it, because these archetypal climbers you're describing cannot possibly exist.
>Witnessed a whole bunch of them talk about how they're going to beat up some japanese-colorado guy
Oh yeah? When? When they were making some stupid joke while chilling on their project and you sat there seething about why nobody comes to the gym with you? Please describe the context because there's no god damn way this happened. You're the exact type of drama-queen you're trying to deride.
>but whenever he shows up, the most they can pull is girly passive-aggression in the corner and brag about how he's not as strong as them in some arbitrary metric or skill.
And where were you during this conversation? In the bathroom? On your phone doom-scrolling? fuck off.

>>237841
>What is First Ascent and why is it bad?
They are a commercial gym franchise based in heavily urban areas, with a lot of people who frequent these threads. They hoped they would get lots of anonymous praise, compliments, and attention for their genius, but the truth came out, (people knew FA were faggots several threads ago kek) As others mention, they have a lot of pointless elitism and ego for being the Planet Fitness of climbing gyms. It says a lot that their business model relies on exploiting and servicing a low denominator in society (trans people) to the point they let some of them smear literal shit on the wall, and anyone complaining about the scent is transphobic. It's funny to see the staff praise some fat, balding greaseball "woman" for climbing a v2, then talk about how some classic american blonde is a retard who should quit because she couldn't flash a v8. Retards and faggots, the lot of them. Remote workers are the shittiest too, because they pretend they're the next Adonis for bring their laptop in the gym and alternating between climbing and scrolling through paperwork.
I know one of you faggots stalked me and found my address. Do something, gayboy. I know you won't.

>>237889
Found the FA asian soiboi
Yeah keep on sucking up to staff and hitting on the trans cashiers, you're totally irresistable

>>237889
>occasionally hit up uptown and block, but I have NEVER seen these people.
> there's no god damn way this happened
So a man who's only there once in a blue moon knows every conversation that happens in an environment well known for toxicity and drama? Post your FA worker badge, retarded shill, I know what you're up to

>>237891
>Do something, gayboy. I know you won't.
I love 4chan.
>>237892
I hate trannies and retards like you who make up gossip because you're so damn anti-social. In terms of climbing at FA, I've probably put in 100 hours and never encountered any of the elitist faggots you guys are talking about. Everytime I struggle with a problem, I have no issue walking up to the people board-training and asking for beta. Also when I climb it's with friends, leaving me little time to eavesdrop on conversations, mis-interpret them because you can't hear every word, then make up bullshit stories so you can feel safe shitting on a franchise. Go back to /r/latestagecapitalism and bitch about the trans shit there faggot

Burger gyms sound absolutely miserable.
The gym I go to, despite being full of people all the time, everyone is respectful, nobody screams, nobody bothers you.
Sometimes I laugh that something is hard, the person that tries after you politely agrees, and that's about it.

>>237894
>I've probably put in 100 hours and never encountered any of the elitist faggots you guys are talking about. Everytime I struggle with a problem, I have no issue walking up to the people board-training and asking for beta.
lmao of course the gym suckup never has any problems
>hurr i'm not a brownnosing suckup hurr
Nigga why you walking up to a dude doing something entirely different to ask for advice when you could just figure it out yourself? Not like you're going pro anytime soon

>>237895
I'll side with elitist asian dude anytime over some greasy euro-fags.
>The gym I go to, despite being full of people all the time, everyone is respectful, nobody screams, nobody bothers you.
Sometimes I laugh that something is hard, the person that tries after you politely agrees, and that's about it.
Huh... that's so weird... because that's my exact same experience with First Ascent... Huh it's almost as if.... anon is an autistic baiter who rages, boils, and copes. Dude literally just imagine these conversations happening irl. Imagine it. Can you picture a bunch of goons just chatting about casually committing assault? Does this sound like a conversation that would happen with climbers at a commercial gym in broad-daylight? Probably fucking not, right? At least not seriously. Also, where is anon while this conversation happening? Is he in the friend circle? Or is it more likely that he's like 20 feet away from this group of people, is in a bad mood because of their project, and rather than mind their own business, is trying to listen for gossip.
>>237896
My issues with FA have to do with the route-setting and virtue-signalling. Staff have always been kind to me, the community has been generally good. Movement gyms in Chicagos have given me more issues than FA has. Here's the thing - I don't give a shit about FA collapsing to the ground or not, my beef is with autistic fucks like you who openly try to make the community seem more toxic than what it actually is. Do you browse /fit/ by any chance?

>>237896
>Nigga why you walking up to a dude doing something entirely different to ask for advice when you could just figure it out yourself? Not like you're going pro anytime soon
Because sometimes I can't figure out shit. I must be brain damaged because sometimes I'll try and do one move like 20 times, only to have some fucker help me figure it out. It's what makes climbing fun, and I love it, because sometimes a third person will join, then a fourth, then our session just becomes figuring out this one thing.

>every gym in the world has elitist retards who form a judgy clique because they know they couldn't make pro in the real real world
>except for First Ascent, they've somehow magically solved this issue despite numerous complaints and anyone who says otherwise is lying
FA ego at work here, move along nothing new to see

>>237897
>Can you picture a bunch of goons just chatting about casually committing assault?
Average liberal conversation about trump desu if you haven't heard that at any FA gym you haven't gone enough
>I don't give a shit about FA collapsing to the ground or not, my beef is with autistic fucks like you who openly try to make the community seem more toxic than what it actually is.
>I have climbed 100 hours with these guys but I will side with them and defend them against the evils of 4chan until my dying day
ahaha shill

>>237899
Honestly fair enough assessment. I'm not saying FA is special in that it lacks bullshit, I'm just saying it's not special because it doesn't outright ATTRACT more judgey cliquey people than usual.
tl;dr - All gyms are the same, if you're gonna shit on FA do it because they support trans people, rather than because it attracts zoomers.

Does anyone have periods in their climbing where they just get worse for no reason? Working fulltime means I can't climb 3 days a week consistently. Sometimes I'll come in, get my project in 3 attempts, other times I literally struggle to repeat something I did 3 weeks ago. Guess I'll never go pro, huh anons?

>>237897
>he doesn't know about the twerk monkey who was at Uptown for a while
That shit had to be seen to be believed
>some dumbass looking mexican guy always singing and dancing after every route
>but he was also really fucking good despite being a prancing faggot
>his ass shaking up and down drew the hatred of many of the males at Uptown, but the trans people loved him for some reason

>>237895
>Burger gyms sound absolutely miserable
I have no idea what the anons above are talking about. I've never had this issue with any other them. Yes they have a lot of leftist virtue signalling in their signage and design but that's the extent of it. I've never actually seen a troon at the gym despite the flags. I've never seen bullying or gossip among adults. Maybe this happens in regular classes the anons are attending? I can see how an educational course with regular attendance of the same group for several weeks may involve some of this.

>>237907
>Does anyone have periods in their climbing where they just get worse for no reason?
yes

>>237909
My closest gym had a troon night once and as far as I could tell, no one showed up for it. These people aren’t stable enough to leave the house much less deal with the fear of falling on an auto belay

Other than that I’ve never seen such behavior in a US gym

yeah I think I'll be done with climbing after this summer

>>237934
Why wait?
>>237899
We need to normalize hating people who're bad at climbing. If you do not climb V5 outdoors, do not talk to me. Do not look at me. Do not associate with my friend group. If you cannot excel, you are literally just trash. Kill yourself.

>>237938
Hey guys, I'm tbe one who made this post. Anyways I fell off my V3 moonboard project so I'm gonna fucking end it all. I hate all of you. You all deserve to suffer, and feel unimaginable, un-ending fucking pain. Your lives are fucking worthless, I hate you all, I FUCKING HATE YOU ALL, STOP FUCKING IMPROVING FASTER THAN ME.

REEEEEEEE

>>237939
touch real rock NOW

>>237938
>If you cannot excel, you are literally just trash
>minimum is v5 outdoor
Sounds like you're the trash

>>237942
The plastic compels me. . . The plastic beheath me

>>237950
Staff boy doesn't know his gf and me
do it my studio every Sunday
She tells him she's at Humboldt
But she doesn't go and

Staff boy doesn't know
Oh FA boy doesn't know
So don't tell staff boy
Staff boy doesn't know, Staff boy doesn't know

>>237903
You're right. I bet you're not seeing it, because the actual top-tier guys couldn't give a shit and are bros in general.
No, it's the seething mass of the guys who are like top 20- top 50 in the gym who are the really judgmental bitches, because they're all essentially the same guy
>I'm a smarter than average athlete who comes here 3x+ a week and have a special routine combining traditional exercise and climbing perfectly tailored to me. I also pursue intellectual hobbies like reading or music appreciation in the gym which also makes me more cultured. I may be balding prematurely but that's clearly because I'm so manly I have excess testosterone. Anyways if you don't do what I do and capitulate to me you're clearly a retard who's not a real climber like me. You'll get there someday though!

>>237922
I doubt their neosnatches can hold up to even a short fall in a harness

>>237953
Okay, that's fair. I don't hang around those guys. I'm not exposed to that sort of toxic culture. Don't get me wrong, I absolutely have met fuckboys and frat dudes, as well as weed-heads and stuff, but at the end of the day, I never had bad experiences with them while climbing. The worst experience I had, actually, was at Movement in Wrigleyville Chicago. There was this random girl who kept yelling at me for "hogging the climbing wall" and "stealing her boulders". I was legitimately confused. She literally went up to my friend and was like, "ummmm, do you know that guy? Can you ask him to stop" and that's when I confronted her like, "Bro what is your deal, I'm literally just bouldering on a wall nobody was next to". One of my friends heard the story a week later and told me she was probably on the comp team, and that comp kiddies get uppity when you "do their warmup problems".

Another time at First Ascent Avondale, I set up a route for lead when some guy tapped me on the shoulder and said, "do you see my bag right there?" and I looked to the bag like 7 feet away, and replied, "yeah". He was like, "so... I was about to do lead here buuut... clearly you didn't respect my space, so I guess I'll let you do it".

Weirdly passive aggressive but like meh, whatever, if he wanted to lead first he should've set up the damn ropes. These experiences sound like nothing to the absolute seething lunatics other anons encounter on a daily basis. I haven't met these douchebags in years.

>>237897
>My issues with FA have to do with the route-setting
Be careful anon one of them is in here

My hip flexibility is complete dogshit to the point that I constantly find myself having to look for alternate beta to simple problems. I've had garbage hip flexibility since I was a little kid btw.
How many months of consistent daily stretching do I need to escape subhuman mode?

on no the curly-haired bearded FA Uptown setter in this thread is here oh no
I'm so scared, what is he going to do, passively aggressively gossip while bragging about some random kilterboard route he can almost do
PS why don't you tell Rob to his face how he should kill himself and you're the best setter in FA. No like anyone actually fucking gives a shit

>>237996
I’d ask a doctor, get a scan, you could be screwed from birth if it’s that bad. Hip flexibility shouldn’t be much of a factor unless you’re doing cringe pistol squat slabs

Anyway, what’s the deal with crash pads?
>$8 Chalk
>$18 chalk bag
>$150 shoes
>$500 crash pad and you need more than one if you don’t live near nice flat nuclimbs with grade inflation
I can only guess most of the cost is because of shipping these bulky things and stores are always selling them at a massive discount. Foam is a scam but it’s not like you have a choice

>>237938
because my summer membership expires at the end of august
I just don't have time to spend in the climbing gym dicking around, need to do more focused workouts that don't involve sitting around for 3 minutes between attempts

>>238019
what kind of retard pays $500 for a crash pad

>>238042
I never said I was poor and I wanted a mondo

>>238047
for that price you could buy a rope, harness, neox, 6 qds, and a prostitute to belay you for an hour

>>238028
>more focused workouts
>Need less than 3 minutes per attempts
Are you talking about zoomer ADHD workouts or something? What effective exercise demands fullybody effort and strength while letting you rest for less than 2-3 minutes? Hell, I know you climb like a bitch because the people I know doing V7s on moonboard rest for like 4-5 mins between burns.

Take your adderall and cope.

>>238111
>muh moonboard
>climb like a bitch
FAgayboy spotted

>>238019
you can buy them used for much cheaper but at least they last for 10+ years

Hard catch from the IFSC belayers at Madrid.
https://imgur.com/a/dQaAwkN

>>238120
looks like the belayer had way too much slack, no? or would the pendulum be even worse if he kept it tighter

>>238123
The top of the climb was pretty run out, even if the belayer was borderline short-roping the guy it would've been a big whip regardless (maybe not so big though). The better technique here (and what the comp belayers are supposedly instructed to do for all falls) is to not really stop the climber at all, just transition straight from falling to lowering. That way you keep them moving downwards rather than suddenly adding a bunch of lateral movement into the fall which can slam them into the wall like this.

Taking a few rest days because 3 of my fingers are really tweaky. Any recommendations for working out shoulders/back/core while off the wall?
I don't have consistent access to a gym unfortunately and I climb at about 7b+/7c (Font) if that helps at all.

>>238127
Just get some dumbbells, brah. OHP, lateral raises, reverse flys, weighted pull-ups.

>>238120
Wow that was pretty awful. Hard to imagine what the belayer was doing here since he's at the very top of the route.

>>238110
True but I already had all that and a consistent climbing group. Except the neox, petzl belay devices are too bulky and complicated for what they do

>>238186
do you use a different assisted braking device?

>>238120
Ouch.
>>238125
Right. It's difficult to say exactly without a zoomed out shot. During the womens semis one of the belayers hard stopped a long fall (no swing). The climber was in a pretty good position to take it but it was a very rough looking jolt. With a different position that catch would have been whiplash territory.

>>237752
your mistake was assuming I climb around your grade range. how many intermediate climbers do you know who are concerned about their foot health? embarrassingly ignorant posts friend.

>>238111
I'm an adult with a real job

>>238272
Be careful anon
If you continue backtalking the gods of First of Ascent, somebody [spoiler] is going to try and shittalk you behind your back only for it to fail because most people don't think their lives should be controlled some random remote worker who spends too much time in FA gyms [/spoiler]

>>238193
Gigajuul or ATC pilot. I have a neox for beginners or for weirdos who refuse to climb on anything but a grigri style device but I won’t argue with them if they feel safer with one

>>238272
>aww he thinks he's talking to some zoomer
I work full-time faggot. I climb on days off. I climb on days on. That's the difference between you and me - you're some fat, decaying wageslave, I'm someone who's committed to the grind. Keep bitching about your joints before you're even 30 grandpa.
>>238259
Not a single climber I've met has ever complained about feet problems. Now, you trying to attribute it to some heightened performance reason is funny. You're trying to make it sound like you're actually good or something, but you're too much of a pussy to drop what grade you flash. The sport will be better with you gone. God I hate weak people.

>>238273
How many times do I have to tell you faggots that I live in California. Jesus christ I do not know what First Ascent even looks like. We have Movement and real rock here.

>>238296
Worst climber in the thread confirmed

>>238308
I'm the anon who posted that. This made me kek so hard. I'm keeping it, and hope it becomes a copypasta.

>>238355
Ur welcome anon I love you remember everyone's always a faggot and loser in these threads. RIP to the niggers who thought they could get 4chan as their own personal army just because they're a decent indoor climber

>>224477
>Anyone have issues with committing to sketchy moves? Or am I just a bitch?
I used to be fine with it.
Then one of my friends took a nasty fall and completely shattered one of her vertebrae. Now her spine is full of metal pins and I'm climbing a whole grade lower because I bitch out whenever a move looks even slightly risky.

>>238410
Knowing how to fall safely is as important a skill as being able to climb. Was this fall indoors or outdoors? I’m way more conservative with what I do outdoors and I’ll never climb harder than 5.11 or so highball boulders

>>238296
Wow what a fag lol

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BSiltlmRYfI
who are you rooting for?