← Home ← Back to /n/

Thread 2052480

168 posts 66 images /n/
Anonymous No.2052480
bqg/ - Bike Questions General
Things you think are cool edition
Resources:
https://www.sheldonbrown.com/
https://www.parktool.com/en-us/blog/repair-help
Neutral Support News on Youtube

previous thread:>>2051108
Anonymous No.2052513 >>2052515 >>2052516 >>2052517
This absolute cunt of a chain link connector thing isn't connecting, what do?
Anonymous No.2052515
>>2052513
try putting it on the right way
Anonymous No.2052516
>>2052513
turn it 360 degrees and walk away.
Anonymous No.2052517 >>2052518 >>2052524
>>2052513
OK I got it but now the chain is falling off the jockey wheel
it's OVER
Anonymous No.2052518
>>2052517
time to open it again
Anonymous No.2052524
>>2052517
>falling off the jockey wheel
I don't trust that you're using the right term here considering you didn't know to call it a quick link. it would be weird if it was falling off there and not the chainrings or cogs. but replacing a jockey wheel is much cheaper. I don't think it could fall off there unless it was totally blown
Anonymous No.2052558 >>2052559 >>2052562 >>2052566 >>2052567 >>2052571 >>2052632 >>2052938 >>2053171
I'm about to get my dream Bike. I was wondering if you guys had any tips on keeping the Paint job in good condition. I was thinking to avoid and gravelly paths for starters. Correct me if I'm wrong but chips happen from little stones flicking up?
Anonymous No.2052559 >>2052563
>>2052558
Dunno man but I want that bike, good taste
Anonymous No.2052562 >>2052590
>>2052558
put PPF like 3M Vvivid on areas that might get thwacked, like the underside of the downtube, the chainstays (top and bottom driveside, bottom nondrive), etc. great bike btw
Anonymous No.2052563
>>2052559
Thanks man, why don't you get one then? The longer you leave it the least likely you are to ever have one. As you surely know they aren't made anymore.

What are you riding Cowboy?
Anonymous No.2052566 >>2052589
>>2052558
>Correct me if I'm wrong but chips happen from little stones flicking up?
They do.
>avoid and gravelly paths for starters
>for starters
It's not like the paint is gonna get stronger with time and hold up better to chipping later.

Stop being precious about your bike. If you can't ride it hard and everywhere you want to ride, you bought the wrong bike.
Put protective film tape (sometimes aka. helicopter tape) everywhere you deem particularly risky for chipping or rubbing.
Anonymous No.2052567 >>2052592 >>2052595 >>2052939
>>2052558
Also, celeste is a terribly ugle cheap and historically poisonous surplus colour that bianchi used only because they had a lot of it laying around that nobody wanted.
Anonymous No.2052571 >>2052591
>>2052558
Invisiframe
Anonymous No.2052572 >>2052597
I want to use my currently unused sram s300 on my currently fully sora-equipped (3x9) roadbike from around 2012.
Reasons are:
- Road bike powertrain is worn out, and needs replacing
- I only use the biggest chainring on my roadbike
- The s300 has 165 crankarms
- I got the s300 on my broken frame single speed. Not sure if it is the Hollowtech or the GXP-verison of the BB
Questions:
- Would this crankset-change be compatible, if I keep the sora-derailleur and STI, assuming, that I have a compatible BB and a 3/32 chainring-width?
- Should I be worried about the chain falling off the crank in highest/lowest gear?
Is there anything else I should pay attention to?
Anonymous No.2052573
fuck bikes
Anonymous No.2052574 >>2052635 >>2052646 >>2052653
Am I missing something if I've never ridden campy? I hear their mechanical shifting is mint and blows SRAM and Shimano out of the water.
Anonymous No.2052589 >>2052623
>>2052566
I appreciate the tip, but you're awfully pessimistic. I don't intend for it to become more durable, prevention is what I'm going for buddeh. And prevention is the best medicine on earth. Since you confirmed my theory, I'll only ride on Tarmac
Anonymous No.2052590
>>2052562
Thank you fren
Anonymous No.2052591
>>2052571
This seems to be a popular fix. Do people actually use this stuff? I feel like it would be really ugly or problematic
Anonymous No.2052592
>>2052567
CHRYSLER
Anonymous No.2052595
>>2052567
Did you get unmatched on Hinge today or something?
Anonymous No.2052597 >>2052940
>>2052572
try it and see?
Anonymous No.2052612 >>2052624 >>2052633 >>2052634 >>2052635 >>2052639 >>2052654
how the fuaark do i get through sand
i have 42mm aggresive tread tires and i still can NOT drive through this mf
it feels like someone is pulling my rear tire backwards and then i just stop completely
am i too weak or is there a proper technique i don't know
help pls
Anonymous No.2052623
>>2052589
How am I pessimistic?
>prevention is what I'm going for
Taping up your frame prevents if from getting scuffed.
>I'll only ride on Tarmac
That thing is not meant for gravel anyway. Technically, that thing isn't meant for the road.
Anonymous No.2052624
>>2052612
Like proper loose sand, like on the beach or something? Dude, I can't do that on my fatbike without really airing down the tyres to silly low pressure.
Anonymous No.2052632 >>2052656
>>2052558
Just hang it on the wall and walk everywhere.
Anonymous No.2052633
>>2052612
gear down and spin as many revs as you can, but this is only to get you through a patch. you'll run out of energy doing a whole ride through dunes or something. I've done it maybe a hundred yards at a time but then the terrain went back to dirt again.
also, you have to set your line before you sink into it. steering doesn't really work when you're in it. if you lose your balance during, steer hard into the direction you're falling to right yourself then straighten up again. keep spinning high revs throughout
Anonymous No.2052634
>>2052612
low torque stay in the saddle
Anonymous No.2052635 >>2052639 >>2052653
>>2052574
Not really. For the quality of the shift Campagnolo fell way behind in the 80's and finally got their cassettes right in the 90's. In the 90's and 00's their shifters had the best ergonomics and were the nicest to use by far since they allowed multiple shifts in both directions. Since then though Campagnolo has only competed on aesthetics and weight, and really fell behind with electronic shifting.

>>2052612
Depends, if it's deep enough you might not be able to ride through it on anything short of a fatbike with buoyant tires. But in general, you ride through sand and loose surfaces by rolling into it with at least some speed and a loose grip on your bars.
Anonymous No.2052639
>>2052612
>>2052635
>rolling into it with at least some speed
yeah, if possible do this, makes it easier to power through it and then even if you gradually lose speed and momentum you're able to get your spinning dialed in and ease into your groove better
Anonymous No.2052646
>>2052574
Campag feels like an mtb shifter to me
Anonymous No.2052650 >>2052902 >>2052911 >>2053084
Any of you fellas use a Brompton? How is it? I *might* take it on bikepacking trips, but I mostly want one to chuck in the back of my car or as check-in luggage when I'm flying so I can go around and explore my travel destination on my own bike. Is it better than just renting?
Anonymous No.2052653 >>2052670
>>2052574
I can't use Shimano without wrist pain and SRAM is just bad, while Campy works well for me, so I run Campy on 5 of my dropbar bikes. The others have Suntour. The Ultrashift groups (generally Chorus, Record, Super Record) that let you shift multiple gears up and down with one swipe are great, solid and snappy shifting feel. However, a lot of people prefer the lighter and smoother feel of Shimano and will think that Campy is clunky or too hard to shift. People with small hands can have problems with the thumb lever from the drops, tho the newer thumb lever design on Ekar alleviates that. Ekar is fucking great imo, they should make flatbar shifters for it. Have talked with their product guys about it and they simply don't want to, which is a shame

wrt braking, their rim brakes are fine, tho way way back in the day they were somewhat less powerful than the competition. Their disc brakes are the best

A big downside is getting them serviced if you don't DIY. A lot of mechanics just don't fuck with them, even though they're not really different than anything else. This is even true in Italy, where you'll see a shitload more Shimano & SRAM than Campy
>>2052635
Yeah, it took them a while to really get their act together with electronic shifting, because they had to navigate around a gorillion patents. Was a big strategic misstep. They had electronic in the pipeline for a long time, but prioritized 12 speed rear shifting. I think their new (as in the gruppo that was just released) electronic shifting is the best, if only because of the feature that lets you manually set the rear derailleur if there's a failure in the electronics. Friend of mine could have used that recently when his Di2 ran out of juice mid-ride lel
Anonymous No.2052654
>>2052612
fatbike
Anonymous No.2052656
>>2052632
Should I buy two and hand one?
Anonymous No.2052669 >>2052673
My dad found this and it's supposedly bike related but he doesn't remember what it's for. I can't figure it out either, would anyoke know?
Anonymous No.2052670 >>2052734
>>2052653
the shifting of the mech ekar kinda sucks imo. Would immediately buy a wireless one tho
Anonymous No.2052673 >>2052674
>>2052669
if he found it how did he know what it was for? asking because he might just be assuming its bike related because it has what looks like a jockey wheel on it. not sure though havent seen anything like it
Anonymous No.2052674
>>2052673
Well he had it for a while, just hasn't used it in forever and forgot what it's for lol. He thinks the black part attaches to the chain, maybe to take it off without dirtying your hands
Anonymous No.2052679 >>2052683
whats wrong with my disc brakes? they kinda work but if i brake say while going downhill there are horrible stutters all the time which make it a bit of a challenge to maintain control of the bike. oh and if you go slow the brakes might straight just lock up the wheel
Anonymous No.2052683 >>2052684 >>2052686
>>2052679
they're not properly bedded in, you have to clean them very carefully and watch a video on how to bead in disc brakes (or just how to rebed them)

i just bent a beaded wire tire (not foldable) to put in a box for shipping and there were cracking sounds from the wire in the process. did i just break them and cant sell them now?
bent like pic rel.
Anonymous No.2052684 >>2052685
>>2052683
even after years of use? i just thought that they suck and can't handle the load :D was thinking of stealing the moving pad from the back brake that has this problem to the front brake where its worn out as its the most used brake normally anyway
Anonymous No.2052685 >>2052687
>>2052684
if it stutters/oscillates it means they're not grabbing evenly on a rotation. might have gotten dirty and gotten stuck
though what do you mean by them locking the wheel? pistons getting stuck?
either way your problem is either improperly bedded in rotors, or if pistons are getting stuck (very) dirty mech that you might need to take apart to clean or wack fluid if they're hydraulic. though i've never heard of old fluid causing that bad problems
i'd start checking the rotors anyway as long as your pads still have life in them
Anonymous No.2052686
>>2052683
>folded a non-foldable bead
Yeah, I'd say you fucked up.
Anonymous No.2052687
>>2052685
i see. sounds like a lot of work im not too excited to do. i haven't taken a closer look but the wheel is completely stuck when that happens. usually it lets go if i lift the back and drop it or push the bike back
Anonymous No.2052700 >>2052701 >>2052703 >>2052704 >>2052705 >>2052708 >>2052719 >>2052734
Bike noob here. What’s the Toyota Camry equivalent of the bike world. Affordable, but not the cheapest. Tech can be a little bit behind but super reliable. Easy to find parts for. Good for commuting.
/\nonymous No.2052701 >>2052702
>>2052700
How hilly is your area?
Anonymous No.2052702
>>2052701
As a whole, mostly flat. However there’s a hilly area in the middle of town and that’s where I live.
Anonymous No.2052703
>>2052700
Something like the Surly bridgeclub. You can switch out any parts without hassle, sturdy steel frame, relaxed geometry.

Generally any steel framed touring bike with lets say middle spec parts on it.
Anonymous No.2052704 >>2052752
>>2052700
canyon endurace allroad

its not a BSO, has comfy geometry, has nice groupset that will only become common, thru axles and hydro brakes
Anonymous No.2052705 >>2052734
>>2052700
90s rigid mtb on slicks
Anonymous No.2052708
>>2052700
Anonymous No.2052719
>>2052700
Bike world isn't focused on specific models the same way car world is.
Anonymous No.2052731 >>2052733 >>2052774
How long does it take your gears to change? Is 30 seconds a long time?

I don't want to move the lever more left and then not be able to get into the farthest right gear.

Suggestions?
Anonymous No.2052733
>>2052731
Your front mech is clearly not adjusted correctly but the specific things that need to be addressed aren't obvious from your video/description. Watch the following video or reference one of the many guides online:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZNG7g83lI-s&themeRefresh=1
Anonymous No.2052734 >>2052758
>>2052670
Should be coming later this year. They were testing it at Unbound and elsewhere. I'm planning on building my next bike with it
>>2052700
All City Space Horse GRX
>>2052705
That's more like an EG hatch owned by a stoner who goons to vintage Import Tuner mags
Anonymous No.2052739 >>2052759
Abstract:
The bicycle industry is increasingly adopting wireless gear-shifting technology for its advantages in performance and design. In this paper, we explore the security of these systems, focusing on Shimano's Di2 technology, a market leader in the space. Through a blackbox analysis of Shimano's proprietary wireless protocol, we uncovered the following critical vulnerabilities: (1) A lack of mechanisms to prevent replay attacks that allows an attacker to capture and retransmit gear shifting commands; (2) Susceptibility to targeted jamming, that allows an attacker to disable shifting on a specific target bike; and (3) Information leakage resulting from the use of ANT+ communication, that allows an attacker to inspect telemetry from a target bike. Exploiting these, we conduct successful record and replay attacks that lead to unintended gear shifting that can be completely controlled by an attacker without the need for any cryptographic keys. Our experimental results show that we can perform replay attacks from up to 10 meters using software-defined radios without any amplifiers. The recorded packets can be used at any future time as long as the bike components remain paired. We also demonstrate the feasibility of targeted jamming attacks that disable gear shifting for a specific bike, meaning they are finely tuned to not affect neighboring systems.
Anonymous No.2052752 >>2052764 >>2052765 >>2052842
>>2052704
Endurace allroad woulda been my pick too but for the awful CUES abortion they equipped it with, what was wrong with tiagra anyway?
>naming every train
>on the same chart as having a riced out civic or being a rapey incel /pol/tard
This is anti-foamer racism
Anonymous No.2052758
>>2052734
>Should be coming later this year. They were testing it at Unbound and elsewhere. I'm planning on building my next bike with it

wow that's great news
Anonymous No.2052759
>>2052739
man i sure love the idea of adding fragile electronics into places where they were not needed for centuries
Anonymous No.2052764 >>2052769
>>2052752
how is cues an abomination? shimayno is just simplifying their budget options
Anonymous No.2052765
>>2052752
tiagra is more expensive
the main selling point of the allroad is its sub 1k price
Anonymous No.2052769 >>2052792
>>2052764
historically, it was possible to mix and match from road groupsets. so if you needed a replacement part 5 years later, you can generally just pick whatever happens to be in stock even if it's from a different level

so calling this "simplifying" is pretty disingenuous when it's essentially DRM for groupsets. keep the lower class rabble in their subhuman ghetto, and save the good components for the job creators
Anonymous No.2052774
>>2052731
>Is 30 seconds a long time
yeah, that may as well be an hour.
even on old stuff from the beginning of derailleur shifting, it's more-or-less instantaneous. if you have really bad, old, cheap stuff it'll be a full second or two. yours is comparatively modern, it needs to be tuned as per other anons link
Anonymous No.2052792
>>2052769
nah linkglide is for e bikes that's why cues and this self shifting di2 XT version exists
Anonymous No.2052823 >>2052825 >>2052849
>managed to get quick link installed
>i installed the chain wrong
>now can't remove quick link
GOD FUCKING
Anonymous No.2052825
>>2052823
simply remove it
Anonymous No.2052826 >>2052835
Alright bros after a 3 day struggle I finally replaced my chain and fixed my bike
It wasn't supposed to be so goddamn difficult, but shimano quick links combined my own small brain made it so
Anonymous No.2052835
>>2052826
i have never replaced the chain on my bike. it rattles cutely while pedaling
Anonymous No.2052841 >>2052845 >>2052852
you guys know any foldable bike that can accommodate one of these engine kit you can get on amazon?
also got a recommendation on these? pretty sure i saw a few sometimes
Anonymous No.2052842
>>2052752
>This is anti-foamer racism

Sry train autism bro but u are genuinely below rapists and virulent racists in the eyes of wah men
Anonymous No.2052845 >>2052846
>>2052841
>got a recommendation on these?
Checkers beer battered fries
Anonymous No.2052846
>>2052845
meant the engine kits, pic unrelated
still appreciated tho
Anonymous No.2052849 >>2052851
>>2052823
Do you have quick link pliers? Quicklinks can be a bitch to open without them.
Anonymous No.2052851 >>2052858
>>2052849
it's amazing to me how if I reuse quick links they'll supposedly detach themselves automatically mid ride yet I need a special tool to apply the compression forces along a precise axis or they won't release
Anonymous No.2052852
>>2052841
make sure you get the fat tires, extra high riser bars, and the big fat fuck extra padded saddle too
Anonymous No.2052853 >>2052857 >>2052864
What does it mean if my knees hurt after a long ride? I rode 100km yesterday, I've done the same distance before but this time both knees are killing me. Not the kneecap but kind of like down and to the side towards the inside between my legs.
Anonymous No.2052854 >>2052856 >>2052863
In the green circle here. The only things I changed this ride were moving the saddle back a little and I was riding a lower gear and pedalling with a higher cadence. I think the cadence might have done it. Feels like repetitive strain injury
Anonymous No.2052856 >>2052944
>>2052854
Anonymous No.2052857 >>2052859
>>2052853
never had that but my guess is something with the saddle is slightly off.
assuming your saddle height is correct I'd fiddle with the fore-and-aft position and try tilting it one notch either way. even small adjustments can have an outsized effect.

when I was having wrist and arm pain, small changes to the bar tilt, stem height, how inboard the hoods were, how high up on the bar the hoods were, and one cm less reach stem got rid of it. we're talking millimeters of changes except stem reach was one cm increments.
so my guess is this type of tinkering would solve it. hope this helps.
Anonymous No.2052858 >>2052865
>>2052851
I'm just trying to give advice based on my own experience.
Anonymous No.2052859 >>2052861 >>2052862
>>2052857
Thanks I guess I'll fiddle with it. It sucks because I felt fine when I was riding it was only when I got home that it started to get really sore.

My bike is more of an MTB/cruiser geometry and I moved the saddle back to get to get more or my toes on the pedal instead of my heel. The saddle itself is still in the default flat configuration.
Anonymous No.2052861
>>2052859
hmm, maybe if you're lucky it's just because your knee was used to the other way for so long and you're just stretching muscles you haven't stretched before, but not really damaging anything. I ride bikes 30 miles+ and don't think anything of it, but an afternoon of skateboarding when I haven't been skating in a while and my legs ache. just different movements.
Anonymous No.2052862
>>2052859
>moved the saddle back
this may have affected your saddle height.
think of it like a triangle: your extended leg is the hypotenuse, the setback of the post and seat in the clamp is the short side, and the pedal spindle up the crankarm and up the seat tube into the nose of the saddle is the long side.
you lengthened the short side and it made the hypotenuse longer, too. but your leg length is fixed.
if my mental image is correct here, I think you need to bring your saddle down slightly.
or something like that
Anonymous No.2052863
>>2052854
Why did you move the saddle back?
Why not just move it forward again?
Anonymous No.2052864
>>2052853
for me it was the crank length but we all have our biomechanical deficiencies
Anonymous No.2052865 >>2052868
>>2052858
I'm not questioning your advice, I use the pliers myself. I'm just saying the warnings about re-use are strange
Anonymous No.2052868 >>2052869
>>2052865
Can't really speak to that, but worn parts are not the same as fresh new parts. Also it's probably mostly a liability use, the manufacturer covering their ass. Use your own judgement.
Anonymous No.2052869
>>2052868
liability *issue
Anonymous No.2052902
>>2052650
I thought about getting one for the same reasons, but I realized that all the places that id enjoy riding a bike on while traveling already have bike share.
Anonymous No.2052909
im going to a marin certified dealer today to see if they can give me advice on the following, and if it's possible to just order a replacement from marin directly, but i thought i'd ask here for a second opinion, will the surly krampus fork fit on the marin muirwoods 2023 (every model since has been the same)?
Anonymous No.2052911 >>2053003
>>2052650
Any populated area that's "show up and just ride around" tier is going to have bikeshare (Bolt, Touch, Donkey, Citibike, Divvy, whatever) in this day and age.

Any place that doesn't have that and is still "I must ride" is going to be more pleasant on full size wheels and real gearing, because you're either going to have gravel type situations, or you'll be moving at speed on cuntry roads, climbing/descending switchbacks, etc. So either rent a bike from the local "caters to tourists" ye olde fred shoppe (typically these places have partnerships with good bike brands because it's as much a bike rental as it is a test drive for your next bike). Or bring your own with 700c wheels (or 650b if you're one of those people).

The use case of a Bromptonβ„’ is limited: commuting in a fairly dense city, in a well off area, where you're allowed to keep your bike under your desk, and where (a) enough people who aren't cyclists would see your Bromptonβ„’ and (b) you're fluent enough in their preferred language where you can corner them to harangue them about how sure it was only this many dollars/pounds/euros/yens and you bet they think that's real expensive for a bike but actually it was totally worth it.

If you're going to be around actual bike people (like in a "cycling" area full of roadies or grabbeltards), they're going to hear the way you say $2000 and think "oh I better be nice to this guy so he doesn't think I'm an asshole". And if you're in the middle of nowhere, then there's nobody around to see your Bromptonβ„’ so why did you bother?

And yes I took my meds but thank you for the reminder! Rent fucking free, etc.
Anonymous No.2052938 >>2053005
>>2052558
Needs more Bianchi decals.
Anonymous No.2052939
>>2052567
Absolutely plebeian take.
Anonymous No.2052940 >>2052942
>>2052597
Great input. Why even post?
Anonymous No.2052942
>>2052940
apply that logic to the post I replied to
Anonymous No.2052944 >>2052953 >>2052954
>>2052856
It's me again. This is probably a retarded question but how important is it to have your feet straight on the pedals? My natural foot position is angled outwards from the frame and idk if maybe that contributed to the knee problem?

I did move my seat forward again but is love to have it further back. Feels a little cramped.
Anonymous No.2052952 >>2052957 >>2052970
what's a good single speed ratio for bike touring with a heavy load? 1.6?
Anonymous No.2052953
>>2052944
>My natural foot position is angled outwards from the frame
dude, that can't be good
Anonymous No.2052954 >>2052958
>>2052944
I too prefer a slightly outward foot (as in, toe-out).
Are you riding with cleats?
Regarding your knee pain: it may be muscular pain in the lower vastus medialis that radiates downwards. Whenever that happens I loosen it up on a foam roller and the pain subsides the next day.
Anonymous No.2052957
>>2052952
Rohloff 14spd
Anonymous No.2052958
>>2052954
No cleats. I now think it's the shift on foot position caused by moving the seat further back. Essentially I was pedalling heel/midfoot and now I'm pedalling closer to the ball of my foot. I can definitely feel the added pressure on the front/kneecap of my knee when I pedal hard and I think that's causing the pain. Not sure if I'm doing it wrong or it will just get better on its own.
Anonymous No.2052967
Have the adventure cycling association's gpx files been uploaded anywhere on the internets?
Anonymous No.2052970 >>2053018
>>2052952
2.3, and walk up steep hills.
1.6 will drive you insane on the flats.
Anonymous No.2052971 >>2052974
My new chain doesn't latch onto the cassette teeth, he just slips between the two smallest ones all the time
What do
Anonymous No.2052974 >>2052979
>>2052971
do you mean the chain stays between the two gears? or is it slipping on the teeth of the gear?
Anonymous No.2052979 >>2052980 >>2052985
>>2052974
It stays between the two
Anonymous No.2052980 >>2052981
>>2052979
is your chain rated for your correct number of cogs?
Anonymous No.2052981
>>2052980
I'm pretty sure, it's the same chain I had before that had no issues
hub shit !5Yjx65b.Zo No.2052984 >>2052998
Another chain anon here, tripfriending to avoid confusion. So my hub has had a lot of friction on my last ride for no apparent reason. Like so bad that if coasting when descending the top of the chainline would just go completely slack, at one point it even threw the chain off the chainring. The wheel has about I'm gonna say 7k-8k miles on it, 95% dry riding.

I took off the freehub (looks like picrel) removed all the grime I could with a dry microfiber, took out each of the 3 pawls and leaf springs, cleaned under them, and then applied light oil to the pawls and some heavier lithium grease to the ratchet ring. It seems to have cleared up the issue. But now I'm worried about why it would do this all of a sudden. I didn't ride for about a week but surely that wouldn't be enough to seize grease? So should I replace the bearings too? It's a PITA because I need to order both the tools and the bearings. There's no obvious sign they're going bad but I don't want to have it catch me by surprise. Throwing the chain was really annoying.
Anonymous No.2052985
>>2052979
https://youtu.be/UkZxPIZ1ngY
sounds like you need to index the gears. essentially just rotate the barrel adjuster until the chain falls in line with one gear. This video is a comprehensive guide on what to do.
Anonymous No.2052998
>>2052984
Most likely just dirt that got stuck. Wouldn't worry about it.
Anonymous No.2053003 >>2053017
>>2052911
This reads like a normal response until the third reddit-spaced bullet point, where it seems like you got molested by a brompton-user and had to suffer the indignity of watching him waddle away from you post-coitus on his gay little bike.
Anonymous No.2053005
>>2052938
You ride an Apology, the name is small and tucked away for a reason, you wouldn't understand this
Anonymous No.2053017 >>2053075
>>2053003
You've never met a Bromptonautβ„’, or you would understand the hate
Anonymous No.2053018
>>2052970
after long deliberation and a sleepless night with bike tests of 2.1 with a lightish load i have opted for 2:1 or 38x19.
Anonymous No.2053022 >>2053023
surly is charging $45 for a single speed spacer kit. are there reliable and cheaper alternatives?
Anonymous No.2053023
>>2053022
looks like wolf tooth makes one. they're a respectable manufacturer. can't tell you if it works for your situation because I have never done that
Anonymous No.2053026 >>2053027 >>2053030
i can switch off the suspension on the front, what's the point of that?
Anonymous No.2053027 >>2053028
>>2053026
if you're not shredding the gnar-gnar, the suspension becomes a liability in terms of weight (nothing you can do except change to a regular fork) and energy loss. at it's worst this is known as "pedal bob" but it's always a thing. so instead of your leg energy going into the drivetrain, some is always wiggling away through the sus.
if you're on roads or light offroad, medium or fat tires provide plenty of suspension on their own. you can raise a little out of the seat and let your knees and elbows absorb the odd big hit. that's what the lockout is for.
when you're hitting big drops or going fast on sketchy terrain, that's when sus becomes an asset rather than a liability.
Anonymous No.2053028 >>2053030
>>2053027
thanks, i didn't notice any energy loss with it but i'll turn it off
Anonymous No.2053030
>>2053026
>>2053028
what that anon said
try sprinting with your suspension unlocked, you will physically feel how you are effectively pushing the bike down, so a part of your energy output is transferring into basically compressing the suspension, so lost

it feels cool tho
Anonymous No.2053031 >>2053032 >>2053035
passed like 1500km with my new bice (more like 2000km)
its creaking like a bitch
apart from just degreasing and lubing the chain, should have I done some other maintenance? like I am adjusting brakes to compensate for wear, I also changed the tires to some FAT ones. I also accidently messed with the rear derailleur cable screw thing, and now I can downshift twice at a time? like hell yeah thats cool, but it wasnt like that when I got it (its got claris)
Anonymous No.2053032 >>2053035
>>2053031
heres the dirty slut
Anonymous No.2053035 >>2053036 >>2053066
>>2053031
>>2053032
if it's creaking and you're new to home bike maintenance, the first thing to do is blame the bottom bracket. then browse youtubes to gather third-party evidence to support your conclusion, and instead of fixing the problem, just spend the next 10 years bitching about the conspiracy to make your bike suck, so that eventually the manufacturers throw up their hands in despair and return to an older standard that doesn't even make sense for the frame design and looks completely fucked up and wrong, but all the retrogrouches on the internet are demanding it and caving is easier than trying to explain why they're wrong since anything the manufacturers can say will be seen as part of the conspiracy

by that point you'll have enough years of tilting at windmills that you can say "I've been doing my own bike repairs since before you were born kid, so take it from me when I say new thing is dumb and wrong and things were better in the olden days before we had these neuralink implants that tortured us to death if we entertained a negative opinion about the Job Creators who can do no wrong"
Anonymous No.2053036 >>2053037 >>2053043
>>2053035
fuck you talking about nigga,
I think its the BB cus
>front crankset tightened
>chain le lubed
>nothing rubbing
I was gonna degrease everything, take out my seatpost and clean everything, but I fell asleep at 6pm and woke up at like 9pm, I will lube up, go to work tomorrow and maybe mess around at work
Anonymous No.2053037 >>2053038
>>2053036
I knew it! always the bottom bracket.

90% odds that the source of creaking is somewhere between the seat tube and your bussy because there's so many bolts there and users are much more likely to have touched one of those bolts and torqued it wrong, compared to the odds that your BB shell somehow came out of spec entirely on its own through no user intervention

the other 10% is it's your pedal or your cleat (again, more likely the cleat, because that's the part that *you* tightened rather than being assembled in a factory in taiwan by robots)

0% chance it's the BB but chasing BB ghosts is a rite of passage and I wouldn't want to deny you that
Anonymous No.2053038 >>2053039
>>2053037
>being assembled in a factory in taiwan by robots)
bro my bike is called a DRAG
a fucking drag
do you think its assembled in taiwan
or do you mean my cleat as in the fucking metal piece inside my shie
bro I tightened that myself, fuck you mean?
I followed all the online guides
you think it could really be it?
Anonymous No.2053039 >>2053042
>>2053038
I mean more the part than the entire bike, the actual bike was probably assembled closer to your residence but the pedals for example would have been manufactured in the far east and any screws or bolts probably done by machine for consistency

the cleat is the metal thing in your sole yeah. those things have an uncomfortably thin margin between undertightened (creaking, slippage) and overtightened (stripped, you're fucked, time to buy new shoes). so naturally, you probably undertightened instinctively as would most people who don't want to fuck up their new shoes. this is where a torque wrench comes in handy unless you have a really good intuition for what a newton-meter feels like

basically, all the fasteners that were last touched by you or by the guys at the shop, look at those, starting with the ones you last touched because it's probably one of those
Anonymous No.2053042 >>2053045
>>2053039
I have a masters in mechanical engineering
are you implying I cant strip a screw?
and what screws does the SPD pedal have anyway, I dont think it is it
I will try to tighten the cleats, but I dont think it is the source of my shit

its like this
>pedal in X position
>push on it, so it rotates a bit
>creak
>doesnt seem to get worse the more beans I give it
>just a stable creak whenever I turn pedals
Anonymous No.2053043
>>2053036
check if chainring bolts are tight.
check pedals.
check seatpost into frame clamp bolt.
check seatpost to saddle clamp bolt.

I just got rid of a creak by greasing my stem quill but it was obviously coming from the cockpit.
also had a mystery noise where the front derailleur cage was hitting the inside of the crankarm each rotation, sounded more like a dragging sound.
Anonymous No.2053045 >>2053046
>>2053042
well I have an bachelor's degree in queer feminist oral herstories from vassar college, so take it from me, stripping is easy, but it will cost you your self esteem

I'm probably using words wrong but I mean there's 3 philips screws visible here and one hex screw. the hex screw is something you'd touch, but the others, not so much. and there's no "wrong" setting on the hex screw that would cause a creak

anyway. I think it's your saddle. take it off, wipe all the dirt off it, apply a thin layer of heavy all-purpose grease to the clamping points on the rails, then reinstall. I bet that fixes it
Anonymous No.2053046
>>2053045
as my retarded engineering ass can instantly tell, but urs cant (im builded different), the spring acts as counter to the "screws", so it "helps" when tightening it and the thing is mass produced, so I dont think the SPD pedals are the problem
Anonymous No.2053047 >>2053050 >>2053067 >>2053074
Is it actually possible to find some form of power meter under $400usd? Is it worth it? It all seems tailored to people who are used to spending thousands on their bike
Anonymous No.2053050 >>2053052
>>2053047
why would youtube shills show the norwood IV 50 year old fred with the frankenstein bike made of 3 different generations of high end parts when they can have manon lloyd wiggle her cute butt on a 2026 colnago c68 while reading off the sales pitch in her welsh lilt?

if you want it, and you have the money, then go for it, influencer brainrot is bad for your mental health
Anonymous No.2053052
>>2053050
lmao it's just an image off google of *A* power meter setup. I'd even be willing to DIY something if it turns out the pricing for these is completely unwarranted for what the tech actually is
Anonymous No.2053066
>>2053035
you lost
Anonymous No.2053067
>>2053047
yeah, 4iiii precision 3 single sided, tho their non-drive side crankarms can have clearance issues. if you run newer sram apex/rival/force you can get crankarm upgrades from sram. best to check with your local fred store. power meters can be really effective training tools
Anonymous No.2053074
>>2053047
the magene p515 is cheap and costs under 400 even without any discounts which you often get on aliexpress. dont know about the tariff situation though
Anonymous No.2053075 >>2053076
>>2053017
Any kind of 'bike fan' is annoying. Plus $2k for a bike isn't that much money in the first place.
Anonymous No.2053076 >>2053174
>>2053075
Your reading comprehension isn't very good
Anonymous No.2053084
>>2052650
Get a real Bike
Anonymous No.2053107 >>2053123 >>2053135 >>2053144 >>2053170
How’s the fit look? I think stem is a little long
Anonymous No.2053123
>>2053107
Without seeing it move, I'd say delicate and antique
Anonymous No.2053132 >>2053136
can i wash my bike with shampoo?
if its good for me it must be good for my bike right?
also its carbon if that matters
Anonymous No.2053135
>>2053107
All good, technically.
Be prepared to make adjustments against all fitting theory later.
Anonymous No.2053136 >>2053137
>>2053132
Just wipe it down with a damp rag, wait 5 minutes to soak in, and wipe it down again. If there's still dirt, dribble some dish soap on the rag and repeat the process. Pouring liquid water all over the bike will just drive the dirt into the bearing seals which is not what you want. Washing is about aesthetics and showing people you "take care of your bike", it doesn't make the bike last longer and if anything it's worse for the bike if you do it a lot
Anonymous No.2053137 >>2053139
>>2053136
the only reason i want to wash it is because its white and i touched it with dirty greasy hands
so now there's black stains on it
i'll try dish soap and a rag
Anonymous No.2053139 >>2053143
>>2053137
if it's specifically grease from working on the bike, then a damp rag with citrus degreaser is the best way to go but I mean damp not wet

just whatever you're doing act like there's an expensive rug underneath the bike. if it's dripping on the floor, it's getting into the seals, which means you're doing it wrong
Anonymous No.2053141
installed my new chain 2 links too short because i used the chain tool on the outer link instead of inner link
Anonymous No.2053143 >>2053146
>>2053139
Not anon but when you clean between the crank and frame and tight places like that you really have to flush everything out and scrub with soapy bristles. I don't think it's possible to stick to your method cleaning the whole bike thoroughly
Anonymous No.2053144
>>2053107
bars look low to me for what looks like its supposed to be a relaxed setup, but if it feels good thats what matters
Anonymous No.2053146 >>2053149
>>2053143
if you need to get into those places that desperately you can remove the wheel and take the crank off, if you don't care enough to do something as basic as removing the rear wheel then did it really matter? now if you said "it's hard to clean the inside of the derailleur without removing it" you might have a point but just cleaning the intersection of the chainstays with the seat tube, that's really such a problem for you that you had to get a high pressure hose and special bike cleanser? come on man
Anonymous No.2053149 >>2053150
>>2053146
What do you mean? Wheel on or off us besides the point. Behind the crank gets ridiculously dirty and performance wise I think I should start keeping it fairly clean. Removing the crank would be ideal but I don't have the tool, and never done it so it's a bit out of my realm anyway. That's the only part I've never dealt with
Anonymous No.2053150 >>2053152
>>2053149
Wheel off is for accessing the areas the wheel obstructs, just like crank off is for accessing those areas.

But dirt in those areas doesn't make any difference performance wise. Your chain? Yeah, that matters because it's friction in the short run and it's wear in the long run. Not grime on the inside face of the crank arm. If anything that dirt should make you faster because irregular surface = less aerodynamic drag.

Clean it the next time it has to come off if you're that worried. If you don't clean it during maintenance the dirt *will* get into places it shouldn't. But cleaning it now, in the wrong way, will either have no effect or it will make things worse.

Don't get me wrong I'm all for cleaning your crank arm, because it looks better, but in terms of doing it day to day, it's purely aesthetics. It won't change anything about the longevity or performance of your bike.
Anonymous No.2053152 >>2053153
>>2053150
You're not being very clear. You say it has no effect like a dirty chain. But then you say if I don't clean it dirty will get to further places and cause problems. You're also talking about the Arm, nothing to do with the arm. Just to reiterate I'm talking deep between the bottom bracket and chain ring
Anonymous No.2053153 >>2053156
>>2053152
I think I was pretty clear but maybe you're losing the plot since it's such a long series of posts with different people.

So to repeat:

1. Surface grime can't do harm in normal every day use because of seals and grease, but yeah, it's ugly

2. Soap or detergent weaken the seals and grease, and should be used sparingly and certainly not as a routine cleaning agent, because it can create opportunities for grime to go where it shouldn't have gone. Use those products in a way that keeps them away from bearing seals and threads

3. Grime can also make its way past those defenses if you take the bike apart, so do use those opportunities to do a more thorough cleaning in the adjacent areas, before putting it back together

Any questions?
Anonymous No.2053155
just got a seven chain, but it's brown/grey. how am i supposed to feel about that?
Anonymous No.2053156 >>2053157
>>2053153
Thanks for the reply, I do have more questions though. Can I spray between the crank and frame with hot water occasionally? Is dish soap bad for a bike?
Anonymous No.2053157 >>2053158
>>2053156
Flowing water plus dirt equals flowing mud. Flowing mud wants to get into cracks. Sweep up the dirt, don't turn it into soup. Especially not hot soup.
Anonymous No.2053158
>>2053157
Alright
Anonymous No.2053170 >>2053185
>>2053107
>saddle above stem
unrace that shit
Anonymous No.2053171
>>2052558
just ride that bitch bro. it's nice to see higher end bikes actually be used
Anonymous No.2053174
>>2053076
And you get mentally raped every time you see a bromptontard.
Anonymous No.2053185
>>2053170
>no can't just have long legs
>you need to have knee pain all the time like me
Anonymous No.2053189 >>2053190
wheel slipped and crashed. Helmet prevented me getting my head getting bonked. I know that bike helmets are 1 crash used but can I still use mine until I buy a new one? How safe is it?
Anonymous No.2053190
>>2053189
that rule has zero rational sense applied to it, unless you're a company who sells bike helmets, since not all crashes are the same.