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Thread 95895196

378 posts 202 images /tg/
Anonymous No.95895196 [Report] >>95895408 >>95897066 >>95919431
WIP - Work In Progress General
Work in Progress, "It's a Dead Man's Party... Who Could Ask For More?" Edition

>Full-on /WIP/ OP Links Pastebin
https://pastebin.com/BE42AEcD

>WIP Tutorial Images Mega
https://mega.nz/#F!TvQFCaLb!w8WZKCcOsTRasxrI0JWezw

>Saint Duncan's "Six Things I Wish I Knew When I Started Painting"
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ufP8ka3KGno

>Saint Duncan also explains thinning your paints
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wxWgsqSf74s

>Paint thinning 102
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sBDVPoNXyVI

>4 EASY Chipping Tricks For Beginners
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ku4comhKHJM

>Decal Like a Pro
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SYKLiEW7p9c

>How to Edge Highlight
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KoRbYuAfbEk

>How to use contrast style paints
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IhholrozptI

>How to Paint with Tremors
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oqp76vAJu9g

>Airbrush Priming and Thinning
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jkntrSBvXxE
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IGjBQzoukFg
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=00JVUxABe44
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AEqT_R41JX8

>Who's Johnny, she'd say, and smile in her special way
https://1d6chan.miraheze.org/wiki/Johnny

Previous threads:
>>95868646
>>95846865
>>95823089
>>95802784
Anonymous No.95895241 [Report]
Aww my minis made anchor post again, honored truly. Repostin
Anonymous No.95895289 [Report] >>95895295 >>95898895
Reposting watcher and twilight knights progress from last thread. Sue me.
Anonymous No.95895295 [Report] >>95898895
>>95895289
and here's lucy because why not
Anonymous No.95895366 [Report] >>95895950 >>95896987 >>95898901
Finished this guy today
Anonymous No.95895394 [Report] >>95895439 >>95895458 >>95915150
my hobby shop has both of these on their site but I can't really figure out what the difference between them is
Anonymous No.95895408 [Report] >>95895426 >>95895429
>>95895196 (OP)
I'm new but what is the different between cheap craft paint, cheap no name aiexpress amazon hobby paint and hobby paint like Vallejo, Citadel, AK? Like the color of hobby paint is more brighter than cheap craft and cheap hobby paint or something?
Anonymous No.95895412 [Report]
>>95894128
the bombs and everything on the base looks so clean, but I agree with the other anons that the skin needs work. If you have a similar green from the same company doing the other paints, go over the skin with that, and maybe use a soft brush or cosmetic sponge to get a soft transition

(I'd personally make the pupils a tad bigger, and give it a little white reflection dot, but that's up to your taste)
Anonymous No.95895426 [Report]
>>95895408
quality of the medium and pigment
hobby paints are thinner than most artistic acrylics and the pigment is finer
craft paint is lower quality and requires more work to be usable for miniature scale painting (you can still get equivalent results but it'll be more effort)
hard to say with those generic online brands, I have no experience with them
Anonymous No.95895429 [Report]
>>95895408
pigment, the dust that gives it color, and formulation of the medium to make sure it works as intended. I worked with shitty paint for years before learning what was best. You can get away with practicing with cheap acrylics for a while, but a good tool is just as important as technique.
Anonymous No.95895439 [Report] >>95895496
>>95895394
I've always used lacquer primer and varnish, it's just so convenient not having to worry about the paint drying on the airbrush tip or in the cup
Anonymous No.95895446 [Report]
Finished my metal howling banshees so that's all my aspect warriors completed.
Fuck me painting has been a huge chore lately. I need to take a little break. Especially from the batch painting, which I HATE HATE HATE
Anonymous No.95895458 [Report] >>95895496 >>95915150
>>95895394
>what the difference between them is
Brand name, possibly price tag.
Anonymous No.95895496 [Report] >>95895524
>>95895439
Hard to source lacquers here
>>95895458
>brand name
they're the same brand aren't they
Anonymous No.95895508 [Report] >>95895515 >>95895580
Any color recommendations for this chestplate armor (middle blue area, not the green). I can't really decide on something to match the green scales / armor of the dragon.

I think the face should be white, or maybe gold. Toying with either blue / black / red on the outside area, but I'm not super in love with any of them. I feel like maybe it should match the rider's armor, but I haven't settled on a scheme for that yet (could be influenced by this color).

>https://www.warhammer.com/en-CA/shop/stormcast-eternals-ionus-cryptborn-2024
Anonymous No.95895515 [Report] >>95895533
>>95895508
Anonymous No.95895524 [Report]
>>95895496
One says "original brand" and the other doesn't?
Anonymous No.95895533 [Report]
>>95895515
As boring as it sounds, I would say silver.
Anonymous No.95895580 [Report]
>>95895508
copper and green go together well. you'll want a rich, reddish one though, like screaming bell. you can also highlight with a silver on the edges.
Anonymous No.95895933 [Report] >>95896614 >>95896976 >>95897870
Does anyone have any experience with doing NMM for scalemail? I'm thinking of doing it for this model rather than metalics. The design is pretty cartoony and basic, so I think it'd look boring with just metal paints. Just no idea how to do it though. I've only done it a couple of time on easier metal surfaces.
Anonymous No.95895935 [Report] >>95895945
Kitbashed deff dread ive been trying to finish.
Anonymous No.95895945 [Report] >>95895985 >>95896357 >>95896368 >>95898934
>>95895935
How does the heat stress effect look on the pipes?
Anonymous No.95895950 [Report] >>95896416 >>95896958
>>95895366
Can barley see any details, pictures so tiny lol
Anonymous No.95895954 [Report]
Ork bots ascendant
Who could dream of stopping Da Big Scrappas
Anonymous No.95895985 [Report]
>>95895945
they would look better without the mold lines
Anonymous No.95896357 [Report] >>95896368
>>95895945
I think the blue/purple colorations looks good, but overall it's all a bit bright? Like the whole thing should be burnt more with agrax or something.
Anonymous No.95896368 [Report]
>>95895945
Agree with this anon >>95896357
Should have given the whole thing a nuln wash before doing the heat burns. Not sure if doing it over it will look shitty though.
Anonymous No.95896398 [Report]
working on the saturnine dread by Doc_Demidov on cults3d
getting the hang of magnetising, revising parts and modelling in slots for magnets and generally putting together bigger models
planning on a run of invictor warsuits next to go with a phobos-oriented space marine force
Anonymous No.95896416 [Report]
>>95895950
>4048x1800
>doesn't know how to open images on mobile
fucking phoneposters man
Anonymous No.95896581 [Report]
Where i can find The art of tommie soule volume 5 for free?
Anonymous No.95896614 [Report]
>>95895933
>I'm thinking of doing it for this model rather than metalics. The design is pretty cartoony and basic, so I think it'd look boring with just metal paints. Just no idea how to do it though. I've only done it a couple of time on easier metal surfaces.
Scale armor IRL was often covered with leather, painted or lacquered for water resistance (and probably to keep the plates from chafing the ties). Lames that big would be great for laying down a glossy dark base color for contrast against the trim and then some freehanded golden tracery
Anonymous No.95896715 [Report] >>95896725 >>95896730 >>95898939
Can't sleep, so I painted up my old warhammer fantasy movement trays for the survivors in the upcoming watcher encounter. I'm really happy with the cinematics of this fight, I hope the players enjoy it.
Anonymous No.95896725 [Report] >>95896735
>>95896715
nice models. Nix the coomer shit though blud
Anonymous No.95896730 [Report] >>95896735
>>95896715
Nice models, more of the coomer shit please though.
Anonymous No.95896732 [Report] >>95896758 >>95896900 >>95896912
I'm going to order an AK paint since they don't sell them at brick and mortar retailers in my country. The paints are about 2.5 USD which is good but they get you on the shipping costs. Are there any other AK paints or Army painter fanatic paints worth using over citadel? If possible I'm willing to swap out my existing citadel for Army painter of Ak since they take up less space.
Anonymous No.95896735 [Report] >>95898393 >>95908703
>>95896725
No.

>>95896730
Yes.
Anonymous No.95896758 [Report] >>95896789
>>95896732
Whites and yellows are the top priority when replacing GW colours.

GW paint is generally good, but it's also well worth transferring them into generic dropper bottles.
Anonymous No.95896789 [Report]
>>95896758
really? i've been having good results with corax white lately. Averland sunset is OKAY but I haven't used any other brand's yellow. What can you recommend as a basecoat that I can layer or glaze flash gitz yellow over? Also a good bone color would be appreciated
Anonymous No.95896860 [Report] >>95900025
Did some quick printed wound counters to match my BFG fleet.
Anonymous No.95896900 [Report]
>>95896732
How is AK quickgen?
Anonymous No.95896912 [Report] >>95897062 >>95897323
>>95896732
You can always rebottle Citadel paints. They are okay, just overpriced for what they are.
Anyways, I would generally recommend AK over AP. AP are bottom of the barrel trash acrylics that, as a brand, can't go into darker and more vivid colors in multiple color ranges, and have problems with oils/white spirit. The only thing I would happily recommend from AP are their washes, which are excellent.
Anonymous No.95896958 [Report]
>>95895950
click on the three dots in the top left corner of the message, then Open original file, hope that helps mobile anon-sama
Anonymous No.95896976 [Report] >>95896990 >>95897870
>>95895933
Vince V actually did a pretty good video on NMM scalemail not too long ago https://youtu.be/0gJ9IZBHH4I
Anonymous No.95896987 [Report] >>95897021
>>95895366
Mate this is absolutely banging, I love that purple underwear it all, it actually looks so cool and ties all the colours and battle damage together so well, how did you do it? Layer of purple then just keep painting over 90% of it with the other colours till it was built up?

Great job man.
Anonymous No.95896990 [Report]
>>95896976
Ooh absolute king. I really should just go to him for everything.
Anonymous No.95897021 [Report]
>>95896987
Yea, exactly that
Anonymous No.95897062 [Report] >>95897101
>>95896912
AP are great. It's not 2019 any more. You are completely out of time with your statement anon.
Anonymous No.95897066 [Report]
>>95895196 (OP)
Working on my black orc bigboss and some kakaphoni

Happy with how he's coming along, scuplt wasnt the best but when he is leading a unit, im sure it'll look good
Anonymous No.95897101 [Report] >>95897188 >>95897275 >>95903323
>>95897062
No, I'm not.
I've made the mistake of buying shitload of AP paints about a year ago (the newest range), and they are just shit acrylics. A lot of colors are desaturated, and until the Blanche boxes, they literally couldn't do darker colors. The problem with oils/white spirit is well documented by a lots of people.

Can you paint a good looking models with them? Yes (in spite of their shit quality). Are there much better choices for about the same amount of money? Also yes.
Anonymous No.95897188 [Report] >>95897227
>>95897101
>The problem with oils/white spirit is well documented by a lots of people.

What are you even talking about Anon?
Anonymous No.95897227 [Report] >>95897275 >>95897287
>>95897188
NTA but white spirit and oils supposedely reactivate AP paints. This doesn't happen with pretty much any other acrylic range
Anonymous No.95897275 [Report] >>95897286 >>95903332
>>95897227
Not supposedly; plenty of them simply do. See the pic I've made a few threads back >>95897101
I've tested cold grays, olive greens, some skin tones, and few metallics, and they all not just reactivate but simply dissolve under white spirit. On the other hand, some of the vivid greens I have fared fairly well.
This inconsistency, coupled with the fact that AP is ignoring the issue (or even just questions about it), is another reason why I wouldn't recommend AP to people. Especially since you can get AK or Vallejo at about the same price point.
Anonymous No.95897286 [Report] >>95897296
>>95897275
Vallejo have their own share of problems, in all honesty I'd just recommend AK.
Anonymous No.95897287 [Report]
>>95897227
Pretty much a non-issue for most people
Anonymous No.95897296 [Report]
>>95897286
Me too, AK just werks.
Anonymous No.95897323 [Report]
>>95896912
you're right about me needing to decant my citadel paints but it's something that I keep putting off and I already have a wooden rack fitted for citadel. I also have yet to research a method for decanting.

>AP are bottom of the barrel trash acrylics that, as a brand, can't go into darker and more vivid colors in multiple color ranges, and have problems with oils/white spirit. The only thing I would happily recommend from AP are their washes, which are excellent.

I have 2 of their new paints which are great, wolf grey and paratrooper tan and they work fine for me.
Anonymous No.95897410 [Report] >>95897525 >>95909338
About white spirit, when I tried that trick with oil paints turned into wash, I used one of my oldest synthetic brushes, one that was pretty much black at this point (used to be slightly orange) and when I started to clean him with soap later, he suddenly got rid of most of that stain, regaining most of original colour. I do recall that artists use white spirit for cleaning tools and brushes but I wonder - how does it work with natural hair? Would it be good to clean up or would damage the hair?
Anonymous No.95897525 [Report]
>>95897410
It will clean it, and eventually your brush will suffer from it. The solution is to not use expensive brushes with aggressive chemicals.
Anonymous No.95897870 [Report] >>95898483 >>95898972
>>95896976
>>95895933
Could be better could be worse. I'm amazed at how dogshit it looked the entire time until I put the tiny little pale yellow dots on though. It doesn't look like metal at all until you do that. I had to fight the urge to give up because I'd failed the entire way through.
Anonymous No.95897951 [Report]
Quick and easy biker
Anonymous No.95898061 [Report] >>95898075 >>95898213 >>95898490
Both AP and AK are SHIT
Anonymous No.95898075 [Report] >>95898300
>>95898061
(you)
now go back
Anonymous No.95898213 [Report]
>>95898061
>acrylic paints are shit
ftfy
Anonymous No.95898300 [Report]
>>95898075
after you, reddit tourist.
Anonymous No.95898393 [Report] >>95898816
>>95896735
which model is the middle one?
Anonymous No.95898425 [Report]
If white spirit does not dissolve acrylic paint, is it okay to use gouache varnishes with them? They are thinnable in white spirit and seems to be both quite matte, have good leveling and are durable.
Anonymous No.95898483 [Report]
>>95897870
Not bad, bro
Anonymous No.95898490 [Report] >>95898496 >>95898499 >>95898734
>>95898061
What do you recommend?
Anonymous No.95898496 [Report]
>>95898490
CITADEL
Anonymous No.95898499 [Report] >>95898842
>>95898490
craft paints or aliexpress acrylics
Anonymous No.95898576 [Report] >>95898646
>shitposting in /wip/
imagine being that anon
Anonymous No.95898646 [Report]
>>95898576
It happens occasionally. It's probably either the usual sperg or a tourist from /40kg/.
Anonymous No.95898734 [Report] >>95898887 >>95898973
>>95898490
mix your own pigments, use your poop too
Anonymous No.95898816 [Report] >>95898996
>>95898393
That's Edlen:

https://shop.kingdomdeath.com/products/edlen
Anonymous No.95898833 [Report]
>>95886625
Well, I bought Mr. Hobby retarder and it did level out layers, but it was still a pain to paint. Bought a thing of the other Mr. Hobby brand acrylic, it was better but not great. Then I finally bought a bottle of Citidel paint since it's available in most hobby shops in Japan, and it's really great. I'm actually enjoying painting. Decided to order for Vallejo online and get a few more bottles of Citidel paints.

Stripped the paint of my figs today and I'll start re-painting tomorrow night.
Anonymous No.95898842 [Report] >>95903335
>>95898499
>aliexpress
Yes I want to wait 3-4 months for my purchase to arrive.
Shipping from china now is worse than shipping from anywhere overseas in the 80's was.
Anonymous No.95898887 [Report] >>95899271
>>95898734
cringe
Anonymous No.95898895 [Report]
>>95895289
>>95895295
I like em! KDM is a pretty fun game too, I'm glad they managed to get both fun gameplay and good minis
Anonymous No.95898901 [Report]
>>95895366
S'good
Anonymous No.95898934 [Report]
>>95895945
Spaced too far apart, so it lessens the effect
Anonymous No.95898939 [Report]
>>95896715
I like the strategically placed butt shots
Anonymous No.95898972 [Report] >>95902127
>>95897870
Looks decent enough as is, but I think a subtle thing putting it off slightly is that the highlighting seems a bit random?
I get what you're going for following the folds, but some other spots seem to share a "corner" with the highlighting, if that makes sense.
But like I said, looks good as is
Anonymous No.95898973 [Report]
>>95898734
based
Anonymous No.95898996 [Report] >>95899038
>>95898816
thanks, i have the other two. she'll probably get restocked at some point.
Anonymous No.95899038 [Report] >>95899132 >>95900349 >>95915959
>>95898996
There's a chinese recaster on eBay that sells them for $14, and sometimes you get lucky and there's one of these actual minis for 60ish burger tokens. Steep, but it depends how important it is to you to have an authentic one.
Anonymous No.95899132 [Report] >>95915959
>>95899038
thanks, my experience with recasters is meh, some do ok, others produce shite, but for the price it can be worth the risk.
Anonymous No.95899271 [Report] >>95899308
>>95898887
Anonymous No.95899308 [Report]
>>95899271
That kid's name? Albert Einstein.
Anonymous No.95899414 [Report] >>95899534 >>95899620 >>95899632
Pano guy from a few threads ago here.

It's definitely a Panover. I dropped my Black A.i.r. agent, and the antennae on his helmet bent and broke off. I tried to reattach them, but I had to strip the old primer and repatint, and now they don't sit flush — probably because of the previous layer of glue.

Now I see a massive disadvantage of metal models. A plastic one would probably have survived the fall.

I'm not sure how to cope with this. I know it's a small detail, but I can't shake the feeling that the model is damaged goods and not up to my standards.
Anonymous No.95899534 [Report]
>>95899414
It's battle damage. Lt. Anonius barely dodged enemy sniper fire, ending only with slight damage to his helmet, which he now keeps as "lucky charm".
Anonymous No.95899620 [Report]
>>95899414
Infinity models are such a mess I don't even see the damage. No one will notice, anon.
Anonymous No.95899632 [Report] >>95899862 >>95902222
>>95899414
Why would you produce metal minis anyway? Is it cheaper than plastic?
Anonymous No.95899862 [Report]
>>95899632
Metal has a satisfying weight to it, and more crisp details possible than plastic (though that might not be true for too much longer, considering the advancement of molds). if you pin them right you could drop it on concrete and it would be fine aside from some paint damage, but if it's a smaller piece that can't be pinned it can be rather brittle
Anonymous No.95900024 [Report] >>95900085
Anyone else have autism when it comes to wanting specific colors that match the cannon colors of a minis factions but you may have close enough colors that could work or be mix to be close you still feel the urge to go buy the correct color? How do you get over this?
Anonymous No.95900025 [Report]
>>95896860
Those're nice.
Anonymous No.95900085 [Report]
>>95900024
Use whatever looks best.
Anonymous No.95900143 [Report] >>95900186 >>95900222 >>95900247 >>95900253 >>95900286 >>95900290 >>95900321 >>95900341 >>95900407 >>95900925 >>95903531 >>95914331 >>95914764
Finished the beastmen's shield. Kinda happy how it turned out.
Anonymous No.95900186 [Report] >>95900250 >>95900306
>>95900143
Nice 'How to be excluded from every game' speedrun
Anonymous No.95900222 [Report]
>>95900143
Based. Nice paintjob, too.
Anonymous No.95900247 [Report] >>95900306
>>95900143
Jesus christ...
Anonymous No.95900250 [Report]
>>95900186
Only if you play with redditors and humorless puriteen subhumans.
Anonymous No.95900253 [Report]
>>95900143
Dude's got like 130lbs on that arm.
Anonymous No.95900286 [Report] >>95900310 >>95900312
>>95900143
What exactly is the purpose of a naked chick on the shield tho?
Anonymous No.95900290 [Report]
>>95900143
Mr Advertiser, get down!
Anonymous No.95900306 [Report]
>>95900247
That's not what crucifixion looks like.
>>95900186
If you don't like Lore Accurate then don't play the game.
Anonymous No.95900310 [Report] >>95900336
>>95900286
Humiliation of the enemy, seeing their princess in that kind of situation.
Anonymous No.95900312 [Report] >>95900336 >>95900354
>>95900286
Beastmen are canonically psycho murdereous rape monsters.
Anonymous No.95900321 [Report] >>95900325
>>95900143
What is this from? I want one now
Anonymous No.95900325 [Report] >>95900359
>>95900321
Brother Vinni.
Anonymous No.95900336 [Report] >>95900352
>>95900310
Oh that makes sense
>>95900312
I know that but it'd make more sense to have her like dead and mutilated then, no?
Anonymous No.95900341 [Report]
>>95900143
10/10 i love it.
Anonymous No.95900349 [Report] >>95903336 >>95903372
>>95899038
Niggers, how profitable is thus product:
I'm a decent sculptor, and with enough refs I can duplicate a model in 3d, and the resin print them, and sell them for cheaper than recasts.
Would you say this could be better than recasts, or people won't get into it?
Anonymous No.95900352 [Report]
>>95900336
Then how would he get hard mid battle if she weren't screaming? She's like a fluffer to get him ready for facefucking his fallen adversaries.
Anonymous No.95900354 [Report] >>95900368
>>95900312
I don't think they do much actual rape, GW has always been a bit too squeamish for that sort of thing in primary materials. Assuming of course this is FB Beastmen we are talking about.
Anonymous No.95900359 [Report]
>>95900325
Fuck vinni and his "no, I won't sell the stl, just physical or nothing" model
Fuck
Well, there goes that dream
Anonymous No.95900368 [Report] >>95900394 >>95900490
>>95900354
Regular non-chaotic even-toed ungulates engage in constant rape of nearby females, chaos taint is supposed to crank that way up.
Anonymous No.95900394 [Report]
>>95900368
Addendum: The most common injury for bulls is a broken penis from too much and too enthusiastic raping.
Anonymous No.95900407 [Report] >>95900443
>>95900143
It's a cool idea, but it should be on a minotaur. If you have to have it on something like a gor then at least have the fucker use both arms to lift the shield. It's wild he's just lifting all that weight with one arm.
Anonymous No.95900443 [Report]
>>95900407
If he's a leader, then it makes sense. Chaos is one hell of a drug after all, being able to lift a shield and a human woman with one arm is to particularly far-fetched. I know it's tabletop abstraction, but Wargors and Beastlords had higher strength than a regular ogre.
Anonymous No.95900490 [Report] >>95900559
>>95900368
Beastmen are generally speaking tainted subspecies of man, not cows. Furthermore, it's minotaurs who are the bull beastmen, with regular gors being more goat or deer than bull. Female beastmen gors are called does, not cows afterall.
Anonymous No.95900559 [Report]
>>95900490
Goat, Cattle and Sheep are all incredibly closely related.
Anonymous No.95900754 [Report] >>95900899
Does anyone know which kitty litter to get for basing? Are they all the same? I've heard some are absorbant and dissolve easily while some are more rock-like
Anonymous No.95900899 [Report]
>>95900754
Better off getting some gravel and tiny pebbles from outside. Kitty litter ends up looking too uniform next to minis, looks like a pile of softballs once glued down.
Anonymous No.95900925 [Report]
>>95900143
probably fits a minotaur more. I could believe something that size could have a full ass human on their shield, but not a normal beastman. it is hot tho.
Anonymous No.95902127 [Report]
>>95898972
>is that the highlighting seems a bit random
Yeah I still fundamentally don't understand how light works. It's why I still struggle with NMM and highlights in general, especially on the back of a model. All these tutorials only ever paint the front. I don't know what you're supposed to do with the back if the light source is coming from the front and still have the model look interesting. I suspect it'll just click at some point from doing it enough though.
Anonymous No.95902222 [Report] >>95902494 >>95903396
>>95899632
>Why would you produce metal minis anyway? Is it cheaper than plastic?
Tooling is much, much cheaper, materials are about 10x as expensive. It's a tradeoff.
The tooling for a single plastic sprue costs tens of thousands of dollars (mostly hiring someone to CNC it for you and the enormous labor cost for the design phase) and the machines cost hundreds of thousands. Once you have that, you can press them for pennies. With plastic molds, if you fuck up there are a tiny handful of ways to try to fix them. If you can't you just have to suck it up and pay for a new mold. So the design phase is usually dozens of simulated passes trying to find the perfect layout for the plastic to flow, how to split out the minis, all that jazz, before the tooling. You also have to pull a LOT of models at once
By contrast, the molds for a metal or Siocast run cost $100 or so, and the machines are a few grand. The downside is, you have to cast everything that's in the mold and the price of tin has skyrocketed in the last decade and change. With a good caster you can make back the price of several new sculpts selling only a few hundred models, while someone making plastics needs to sell thousands of boxes. And you can run a spincaster in your garage, recycling your own miscasts or scrap metal in a matter of minutes. You can also make stuff to order very quickly, so you don't have to keep as much stock on hand
Metal production is great for mid-range companies that need to sell small runs of a lot of individual minis but can't count on any one sculpt

Resin setup and materials costs are even cheaper than metal, so it's the easiest thing for a very short-run guy working out of his garage. It holds detail as well as metal at the cost of keeping you from recycling anything, much longer times from pour to finished model, and being more fragile so it's harder to do really thin parts well. 3DP costs more to set up and requires less supervision with an even slower reset time
Anonymous No.95902494 [Report] >>95903208
>>95902222
>3DP costs more to set up
I can literally get a 10k detail printer for less than some shoes cost.
Anonymous No.95902495 [Report] >>95907431 >>95914367
I found a couple of 3D printed sprues for Sigmar Marines at my FLGS. Never painted these before, but I don't play Age of Sigmar. So I did a bit of modding, swapping their heads with German WW1 heads so I can use them for some upcoming Trench Crusade (and later on, Konflikt 47) demo games to try to revive my local gaming scene.
Also glued some pistols to their hips (not in view) to give them a more appropriate feel. Going to let the green stuff cure for 24 hours, then get to work painting and see how they turn out.
I might remove the cross I made with green stuff and hand-paint it on. But I want the 3D feel. If nothing else, I can pry it off if I don't like it later and paint it anyways.
Anonymous No.95903142 [Report]
Bit of an odd question, but do you guys paint the upper lip when you're doing a tabletop ready paintjob?

I had been doing an entirely bearded force for months, and now that I'm onto shaved guys I'm having a hell of a time getting things below the nose to look right. I can just about manage chins, but the whole mouth area is a mystery to me.
Anonymous No.95903208 [Report] >>95903265 >>95903364
>>95902494
>I can literally get a 10k detail printer for less than some shoes cost.
And my initial resin casting setup cost $140 including the safety gear, legos, a hand pump, and an old pressure cooker to use as a vacuum pot.
>less than some shoes
My good fa/tg/uy, most of my guns and several appliances in my house cost less than high-end sneakers do. That's not a high bar to clear.
Anonymous No.95903265 [Report]
>>95903208
>high end
No I mean just normal footwear.
Anonymous No.95903323 [Report] >>95904295
>>95897101
Yeah it's the paint, not you, those people managing to win golden demon and crystal brush with AP paints...
Anonymous No.95903332 [Report] >>95903387 >>95904295
>>95897275
Are you varnishing before oils?
Anonymous No.95903335 [Report] >>95911647
>>95898842
Depends where you are, in Australia it's quicker than Europe or the states
Anonymous No.95903336 [Report]
>>95900349
>and with enough refs I can duplicate a model in 3d
No
No you can't
Anonymous No.95903364 [Report]
>>95903208
For around 150, you get a perfectly fine entry level printer too.
If you can afford a GW combat patrol, you can buy a printer too
Anonymous No.95903372 [Report]
>>95900349
People just scan original models to print them. It's a complete waste of time to manually sculpt it.
Anonymous No.95903387 [Report] >>95904295
>>95903332
No, he is not, and that is the issue
Anonymous No.95903396 [Report]
>>95902222
Eons of battle recently release a video in which they make a (very simple) plastic but with a hobby grade CNC and injection molding machine.
Sure, it's not a full sprue of WGA-level multipart miniatures, but impressive nonetheless. I can see something like EM4 or other monopose minis with such a setup with relative ease.
And it's far away from costing tens of thousands. Those days are long over.
Anonymous No.95903523 [Report] >>95903534 >>95904787
Finished up a big pile of 3d printed heads, just about finishing up all the decorative scenery. I still have the Lonely Tree left, I'll probably do it tomorrow or this weekend.
Anonymous No.95903531 [Report]
>>95900143
>"Eh. It's a living..."
Anonymous No.95903534 [Report] >>95903546
>>95903523
Love your colour palette for all your KDM minis. Definitely feels like what they were going for when designing the aesthetic.
Anonymous No.95903546 [Report] >>95903586 >>95904722 >>95904787
>>95903534
Thanks. It's been a learning process as I've gone along - I am still trying to figure out how to do lantern osl shadow effects the way I want to, but I'm not displeased with what I've done so far.

By latest count I've completed 76 models, with another 8 on my workbench. By the time this campaign is done I want to have 120 completed.
Anonymous No.95903586 [Report] >>95903607
>>95903546
I remember an anon painted the guy on the right I think as his first mini a few months ago. Maybe even last year, and it was really rough. In my head canon you're same guy and you've improved a lot.
Anonymous No.95903607 [Report] >>95903620 >>95904787 >>95904896
>>95903586
KDM minis as a first attempt? That's intimidating. I practiced on a while bunch of cheap Etsy 3d prints before even touching the starting survivors.

Pic related is the guy I wish I could paint like...I tried to emulate the skin as best I could but this guy's leagues beyond my technical skill.
Anonymous No.95903620 [Report]
>>95903607
Seems doable. He's probably just doing what you do and then spraying a transparent paint over it with an airbrush to smooth the transitions and add OSL. Your stuff doesn't look very far behind that at all. That being said, the OSL looks simple, but every time I try it, it turns out awful.
Anonymous No.95904295 [Report] >>95904805 >>95904880
>>95903323
What about reading the full post, anon?

>>95903332
And looking at the picture you are actually responding to?

>>95903387
It's not an issue with a non-AP paints.
Anonymous No.95904698 [Report]
I'm still in the process of sprucing and gluing my guys since this is my first time learning all of this stuff, but I think this process to be very therapeutic
Anonymous No.95904722 [Report] >>95904884
>>95903546
I'm thinking about picking up some KDM, unsure if its worth the price they're asking but the model I want is fairly new (or the one I desperately want, which is seemingly gone for good never to return).so recasting isn't really an option.
Anonymous No.95904787 [Report] >>95905644
>>95903607
>>95903546
>>95903523
Very nice, asmospheric as fuck.
I bought KDM last year, it's what got me into miniature painting, but I’ve never actually played it
Anonymous No.95904798 [Report] >>95904850 >>95909225
Anonymous No.95904802 [Report] >>95904850 >>95909225
Anonymous No.95904805 [Report] >>95904856
>>95904295
You can erase any acrylic paint with white spirits anon. That's why people recommend to use a varnish before using streaking grime or oils. If you do it ghetto style without it and it works. Fine. But don't complain if it goes wrong.
Anonymous No.95904808 [Report] >>95904835 >>95904850 >>95909225
Anonymous No.95904835 [Report] >>95908447
>>95904808
it needs some shading on those metals
Anonymous No.95904850 [Report]
>>95904798
>>95904802
>>95904808
vampires are so cool
Anonymous No.95904856 [Report] >>95904872
>>95904805
>You can erase any acrylic paint with white spirits anon
No, you can't, there is no chemical reaction between the two whatsoever. You are mistaking white spirit with friction, or the liquid (in this case white spirit) getting under the acrylic paint - which also happens when you use too much force.
But for some reason, AP paints either seem to react with white spirit, or their pigments/medium are so shit that they are ten times more prone to get btfo by the process usually related with oil cleanup.

Once again, no other acrylic paint from the ones I've tested (Citadel, AK, PA, and Vallejo) do this. Only AP.
Anonymous No.95904872 [Report] >>95904875 >>95904879 >>95905648
>>95904856
Anon, in order to use an oil wash or any of those enamel products, you have to use friction. And then the paint can come off. That is why almost every tutorial for that shit you see mentions a gloss varnish.
Anonymous No.95904875 [Report] >>95905854
>>95904872
Stop talking about things you've clearly never done yourself.
Anonymous No.95904879 [Report]
>>95904872
Anon...
Anonymous No.95904880 [Report]
>>95904295
Sounds like a skill issue
Anonymous No.95904884 [Report] >>95917998
>>95904722
Which model, I'll find you a recast
Anonymous No.95904896 [Report] >>95904957 >>95904994 >>95905109
>>95903607
Weird you can't match a guy that's prob been doing something for 20 years, and prob spends 10hrs on a mini
Anonymous No.95904957 [Report] >>95905042 >>95905109
>>95904896
i'm not sure where the painting ends and the forced photo lighthing starts, is there a photo of those with full light and brigther background?
Anonymous No.95904979 [Report]
trying the makeup brush to apply on panels and avoid brushstrokes
Anonymous No.95904982 [Report]
I printed and painted for a request a friend made. I fucked up the print and didn't sand the support points well enough or clip them properly. I'm a noob at 3d printing and I also accidently forgot to add supports to the feet. I let her know about all of this and offered to print it again but she said she wanted it because "the imperfections make it beautiful" so I obliged her. Here it is. not used to painting big models with round smooth surfaces so but I tried my best. Waiting for her to tell me gloss or matte varnish. Hope she likes it when I see her saturday.
Anonymous No.95904994 [Report]
>>95904896
Those minis are nice but you don't need 10 years of practice to pull that off. I'm sure anon can reach that level fairly quickly if he puts in the effort.
Anonymous No.95905020 [Report]
A bit more progress on the gobbo tonight. It's wild, I dialed back the highlights on the hair and face because they looked too extreme, but now looking at the photo, they aren't enough. Oh well, good enough for now, I can come back and add more later if I can be bothered. First time I've done pink hair though, that was fun. I don't have a pink either, so it was just mixing things to see what works.
Anonymous No.95905042 [Report] >>95905109
>>95904957
Yeah the photography and lighting is carrying that picture a lot. The crazy amount of fuzz on the model in focus is concerning. Still though, the out of focus ones look great and that's how you're going to be seeing minis on the tabletop for the most part, so he definitely has a really good grasp on contrast for distant viewing. Like I'd never be brave enough to do shadows as deep as on the left guy.
Anonymous No.95905050 [Report]
That pic is all airbrush, oil wash and instagram lighting
Anonymous No.95905109 [Report] >>95905265 >>95905330
>>95904896
>>95904957
>>95905042
I see anons that do this shit all the time and there doesn't seem to be a nice way to tell people to take a picture of their minis in an even and bright setting. It's not even that I think the paint job is bad, I just want an accurate picture so i can see every part of it.
Anonymous No.95905265 [Report]
>>95905109
>and there doesn't seem to be a nice way to tell people to take a picture of their minis in an even and bright setting
"Fuck off with your smoke and mirrors, take a picture in natural light"
>but I said nice way
This WAS the nice way.
Anonymous No.95905330 [Report]
>>95905109
this, for display purposes it's great, but for anyone trying to replicate or learn it's useless

if anyone gets offended when they get asked for a bright photo fuck them really, they have reddit and instagram to fill their egos
Anonymous No.95905567 [Report] >>95905587 >>95905590
Can I apply super glue with a q-tip if I'm quick enough or will I just glue some cotton to the mini?
Anonymous No.95905587 [Report] >>95905727
>>95905567
Apply superglue with a toothpick
Anonymous No.95905590 [Report] >>95905727
>>95905567
definitely, use a toothpick, a wire, a clip a needle...
Anonymous No.95905644 [Report]
>>95904787
These are a good foundation, anon. My first 40k models weren't this good. Skin is one of the hardest parts of these things and you did pretty good, can seal real tone in them.
Anonymous No.95905648 [Report]
>>95904872
what compels people to argue about shit they have no clue about? like why even?
Anonymous No.95905727 [Report]
>>95905587
>>95905590
Aight ty
Anonymous No.95905854 [Report] >>95905888 >>95905945 >>95906089
>>95904875
Wiping off the oil with a cotton bud is what? Friction. If you do it a tiny bit too much, any acrylic paint can come off, and that's why you varnish your shit first. I've been there, I ruined a terminator that was painted with gw paint and I am never doing it without varnish ever again. Anon can tell 500 times that it's only an AP issue and all other paints are fine. And it's outright wrong because you absolutely can remove other acrylic paint with white spirit too.
Anonymous No.95905888 [Report] >>95905909
>>95905854
Here’s hoping a cotton bud wipes you from this thread idiot
Anonymous No.95905909 [Report] >>95905923 >>95905945 >>95906089 >>95906395
>>95905888
Here is the thing anon: countless video tutorials mention that you can damage the paint by wiping too hard, which is why you should use a varnish to protect the paint. And there is one retard in /WIP/ who keeps repeating his bullshit take that it's completely fine without varnish and only AP paint comes off when you wipe away excess oils or streaking grime.
Anonymous No.95905923 [Report]
>>95905909
50 APbucks have been added to your account
Anonymous No.95905945 [Report]
>>95905854
>And it's outright wrong
My claim is that some AP paints pretty much dissolve no matter how gently you attempt the cleanup and that no other paint brand (from the list) suffers from the same problem. This is correct; I've proved it with the picture, too. Hell, I'm literally just cleaning up unvarnished AK acrylics with white spirit right NOW, and there is no problem. I sincerely can't understand why you are unable to grasp this. Is it generally safer to varnish? Sure. Is it required? No. Unless you use AP, that is.
>because you absolutely can remove other acrylic paint with white spirit, too.
Sure, I even mentioned that with the PA example. But that was not my claim. And it is not because of the white spirit but because you are either too rough and/or you literally jammed the liquid under the acrylic paint.

>>95905909
Because only AP comes off after pretty much looking at white spirit, you absolute cretin. Like what the fuck are you even trying to do here, I literally posted proof.
>bullshit take that it's completely fine without varnish
It is. There are even videos about it:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wdOEaj1OFkc
Just stop talking about shit you know nothing about.
Anonymous No.95906089 [Report] >>95906127
>>95905854
>>95905909
>doubling down
Anon I've been using enamel washes over AK/TTC/Citadel and as long as you're gentle you can easily get away without varnishing and the paintjob won't get damaged. Of course varnish will make it safer, nobody is arguing against that. That anon literally took the time to test it with different acrylics and shared the results, why are you sperging about this lmao
>you can damage the paint by wiping too hard
the important part being "too hard"
Anonymous No.95906127 [Report]
>>95906089
Even top tier scale modellers like Nightshift occasionally don't varnish for that purpose. Obviously, it's for a different reason, like not wanting to lose a texture from enamels/oils, but still, the point stands.
Anonymous No.95906395 [Report]
>>95905909
>countless video tutorials mention that you can damage the paint by wiping too hard,
I'll chime in to say I've never had it with oils/white spirit, but I have done it in the past on a Gundam kit with an enamel wash/enamel thinner, so it could just be overgeneralising
Anonymous No.95906423 [Report] >>95907099
Shameless repost, done with this feller
Anonymous No.95906821 [Report] >>95907469
Here we go. Just primed it black blue and then for the silver spray. Going for Ryza Forge colors. Left the top cover panel of the cannon unglued for easier painting.
Anonymous No.95907099 [Report] >>95907280
>>95906423
I dig the face
Anonymous No.95907182 [Report] >>95907265 >>95907540 >>95908612 >>95909013
Finished the Rhino
Anonymous No.95907265 [Report]
>>95907182
Crisp
Anonymous No.95907280 [Report]
>>95907099
I wanted the mouth of the plate's face to be like a big green "eye" for the nought, not sure how clear that came out
Anonymous No.95907281 [Report]
Has anyone posted more Stahly swatches? It's been a minute since I last visited /wipg/. I've currently got the 7-in-1 tool, the Washes picture, Pro Acryl, and AK 3rd gen.
Anonymous No.95907343 [Report]
I too am painting a tank. Idk if the camo scheme fits with my blue fellers. And I do wish I had an airbrush.
Does IRL camo have data/stats you can find about it, like X camo has 10% this color 30% that color? I think I went overboard on the cream color and my next one will be mostly brown/orange.
Anonymous No.95907431 [Report]
>>95902495
kaiser wilhelm in a fucking mech suit with huge pec muscles and a small head is amazing.
also
>trench cleric (anime girl)
Anonymous No.95907469 [Report] >>95907605
>>95906821
I think the design for 30k Mechanicus is 100 times better than 40k, but the Krios tank is just retarded.
Imagine having a "battle" tank that has the operator sitting outside in the open in a recliner.
Anonymous No.95907540 [Report]
>>95907182
Hell yeah
Anonymous No.95907605 [Report] >>95909279
>>95907469
Does it have voids maybe?
Anonymous No.95907724 [Report] >>95908197 >>95908576
Progress on archer lady. Had to leave hair for tomorrow (and broke off one arrow because it was in such place that it had to happen).
Anonymous No.95907734 [Report] >>95908576
And her back.
Anonymous No.95908197 [Report]
>>95907724
You were way to hard on yourself a few threads back. This has turned out very good. I look forward to the finished product.
Anonymous No.95908447 [Report] >>95908756
>>95904835
Funny that you say that, the metals are already overshaded to make them into dark steel and dulled bronze. There's something like 3 rounds of washes on them.
Anonymous No.95908483 [Report] >>95908576
Pardon me if this question gets asked a lot. I want to rush out a vehicle miniature.
Is four hours long enough after airbrush primer application to start painting the tank by brush or airbrush?
Anonymous No.95908576 [Report] >>95909376
>>95908483
A couple hours should be more than enough for acrylic and lacquer primers, dunno what exactly you're using. It's usually recommended to leave it to cure for a full day but I never had any issues when I started painting earlier.
>>95907724
>>95907734
Starting to look nice. I think you could work a bit more on her back and ass to smooth the transitions out.
Anonymous No.95908601 [Report] >>95908614 >>95914417 >>95914469
>paint face
>looks okay
>slowly tilt it upwards
>pic related

anyone else get this feel
Anonymous No.95908612 [Report] >>95908657
>>95907182
cool but I feel like I saw this 30 times the past days between here and 40kg
Anonymous No.95908614 [Report]
>>95908601
>that pic
irl kek
Anonymous No.95908657 [Report]
>>95908612
Posting updates kinda helps me stay motivated but I guess I'll stick to this place from now on
Anonymous No.95908703 [Report] >>95909179
>>95896735
I love these models but I'm so shit at painting skin. Every time I try a human skin tone it looks fucked up.

Does anyone know any resources that helped them get better at human female skin. I don't mind paying if it's a quality resource but so much out there doesn't seem too useful. A 2nd opinion from the anons who can actually paint quality human female skin would be helpful.
Anonymous No.95908756 [Report] >>95909263
>>95908447
let me rephrase that, you need contrast in those metals, just washing all over gives you different tones and effects but it remains too uniform, metals need stark contrast to make them interesting to look at, more so if the whole model is metal
Anonymous No.95909013 [Report]
>>95907182
Don't listen to deleted anon, shit looks cash, and you should be proud.
Anonymous No.95909179 [Report] >>95909223
>>95908703
Ignore the fact that he's a obnoxious shill, this video helped me a lot when I first tried painting female skin. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lCr5CuuFUK4
Also airbrush REALLY helps when painting skin. Like, it's not even close how much easier it is to get a good result.
Anonymous No.95909223 [Report]
>>95909179
>Also airbrush REALLY helps when painting skin. Like, it's not even close how much easier it is to get a good result.
That applies to pretty much everything.
Anonymous No.95909225 [Report]
>>95904798
>>95904802
>>95904808

Could be the pic but your skin looks great but the metals look not so good. Metallics are tricky to photograph so I'll assume it looks decent enough in person. If I were you, I'd work on finding a better method to paint metals though.
Anonymous No.95909263 [Report] >>95911440
>>95908756
I think you don't get what look I was going for. Your pic looks good for regular steel, but I wanted mine to look chemically treated and dark. I did drybrush it between washes and edge highlighted it afterwards, I think it was hard to see because of the satin gloss. Here's another pic with mote diffused lighting.
Anonymous No.95909279 [Report]
>>95907605

The round module beneath the main cannon is a shield emitter.
Anonymous No.95909338 [Report]
>>95897410
You use a brush soap to revitalize and condition your brush again
Anonymous No.95909376 [Report]
>>95908576
>couple hours should be more than enough for acrylic and lacquer primers, dunno what exactly you're using.
Acrylic primer monument hobby airbrush primer to be more exact and thanks!

Is 50/50 dark tone and speed paint medium and good diluted acrylic black wash?
>inb4 oil wash
I want to avoid toxic stuff because I have plans to get a pet dog or cat.
Anonymous No.95909855 [Report] >>95909971
Progress
Anonymous No.95909971 [Report] >>95910086
>>95909855
One of the cross-beams has gone out askew on the treadle!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D5Df191WJ3o
Anonymous No.95910086 [Report]
>>95909971
solid shoopwork, I gotta say
Anonymous No.95910188 [Report] >>95910209 >>95910411 >>95911447
Hey KDM anon, what's your method for your black cloth? Every time I try to do black, it doesn't read as black.

Pic unrelated, I just wanted to post my Faraam set inspired test model for my StD Spearhead.
Anonymous No.95910209 [Report] >>95910281
>>95910188
Kdm ?
Anonymous No.95910281 [Report] >>95910411
>>95910209
The guy that's been posting his Kingdom Death minis for the past few days. I like how he did this black cloak, and I want to steal it. Every time I try to do black, it just ends up looking too much like my highlight color and no longer reads as black.
Anonymous No.95910411 [Report] >>95911413
>>95910188
>>95910281
Yeah shit actually, I second this. I have a couple of black capes and outfits I need to paint and i fucking hate painting black. I don't know what to do to keep it black with highlights instead of going one stroke too far and it becomes grey in people's eyes.
Anonymous No.95910696 [Report] >>95910698 >>95910796 >>95911422
Loved working on these big meks.
Anonymous No.95910698 [Report] >>95910796
>>95910696
Rear view
Anonymous No.95910796 [Report] >>95911422
>>95910696
>>95910698
Might be worth throwing some more colour into the base. Like add some reds maybe. Looks too uniform at the moment.
Anonymous No.95911246 [Report] >>95911401 >>95911528 >>95912277
I'm new to painting. I'm afraid I applied to much primer. But I have no way of telling if I did. I used Rust-Oleum mat grey.. if I did use to much primer then what is the best way to stripe it off? I tried to stripe the same primer off another mini with alcohol at 91% and the primer would not come off .
Anonymous No.95911401 [Report] >>95913331
>>95911246
There are solutions explicitly for removing acrylic paint ("stripper", "dissolver", ask at store how they named it) but isopropanol is easy to get and get the job done. Dip for minute or two, scrub with toothbrush, clean in water with soap and dry.

For me, this does not look like too much primer, however. Since you are starting, I wouldn't worry too much and just go with it for now.
Anonymous No.95911413 [Report]
>>95910411
if it goes too far grey or blue you can just glaze the entire surface with black and it pulls it back together, I find painting black actually pretty forgiving due to how easily it can go backwards.
Anonymous No.95911418 [Report]
A cook and apothecary for my Blood Bowl team.
Anonymous No.95911422 [Report] >>95918354
>>95910696
>>95910796
Agree, the base needs a wash at the very least or drybrush. right now it looks unnaturally flat.
Anonymous No.95911440 [Report] >>95911670
>>95909263
i get what you mean but you are missing the point, if that where cloth you would give it a gradient drom shadows to highlights, your metal is flat
Anonymous No.95911447 [Report]
>>95910188
If you're talking about the Watcher I posted, it's more of a blue-gray.

The formula I used on this guy was a black primer, then a layer of dark gray (Eshin), then an aggressive wash of nuln oil, then a drybrush of Eshin over it again, then a lighter drybrush of light (Administratum) gray.
Anonymous No.95911528 [Report] >>95913331
>>95911246
This doesn't look like too much primer to me; it looks like you didn't shake the can anywhere near enough and/or you were attempting to prime in weather unsuitable for priming. The model still has most of it's details visible but it's now covered in a grainy surface finish which is indicative of the above.

In the future you should be aiming to only prime models with rattlecans during ideal weather that isn't too hot nor cold and has a moderate humidity rating. If you live in particular areas of the world this makes it a real pain in the ass to prime. I've long since shifted to just using paint-on primer since I don't have to wait for the weather to decide when I can prime my stuff.
Anonymous No.95911598 [Report] >>95912180 >>95912277
Worked on these a bit today - Giga Lion, Lonely Tree, and the Giga Lion characters. So far I'm happy with how they're coming along, but more work than I thought they'd be
Anonymous No.95911647 [Report]
>>95903335
It's super variable. Also an Ausfag, I've bought stuff from Chyna that has taken months, other stuff arrived in a few days
Anonymous No.95911670 [Report] >>95911708
>>95911440
That's impossible to do when the base neutral colour is almost as dark as shadows and excessive highlighting would ruin it. Again, your example doesn't fit and your 'gradients on everything' approach is wrong. Not everything needs added volume.
Anonymous No.95911708 [Report] >>95911788
>>95911670
>That's impossible to do when the base neutral colour is almost as dark as shadows and excessive highlighting would ruin it.
you could go all the way to black, like the people that do NMM, or use NMM techniques with metallics

>Again, your example doesn't fit and your 'gradients on everything' approach is wrong.
it's not wrong or right, is a matter of taste, if you like it like that it's fine, to mee it looks flat

>Not everything needs added volume
most everything needs added constrast on a very small model that will be look at from afar to make it readable, but again, if you are happy with it it's fine
Anonymous No.95911788 [Report] >>95911867 >>95912861
>>95911708
That NMM looks disgustingly garish, like almost every other extreme highlight style I've seen to date. It overloads the model with unnecessary detail and detracts from visual cohesion and overall feel, both things I explicitly wanted to avoid. It's in part because of the retard in wfg who keeps calling modern sculpts all sorts of things and rages at 2021 Blood Knights in particular, I want to be able to post my models without being sperged out at.
Anonymous No.95911867 [Report] >>95911891
>>95911788
you should fuck off back to wfg desu
Anonymous No.95911891 [Report]
>>95911867
Why? Is discussing painting somehow offensive to you?
Anonymous No.95912180 [Report]
>>95911598
What's a nigga lion?
Anonymous No.95912259 [Report] >>95912292
Been working on a new Venomcrawler recently. About 90% complete!
Anonymous No.95912277 [Report] >>95912988 >>95913331
>>95911598
>Not filling the gaps on that lion.
You're cheating yourself.

>>95911246
Did you prime in humid conditions? Did you warm up the can and shook it for 5min? Doesn't look like an over-priming issue.
Anonymous No.95912292 [Report]
>>95912259
Deviously based
Anonymous No.95912382 [Report] >>95915060
Pretty new, but was excited to work on these guys. My first of the bunch. Going to try and grab some brush on varnish today. Maybe some of that base paste as well. Any advice on the scheme would be appreciated before I go in on the rest of the kill team.
Anonymous No.95912748 [Report] >>95912770
Painting a chaos knights of Tzeentch. Still experimenting and learning regarding volumetric highlights.
Anonymous No.95912766 [Report] >>95912778 >>95913311
>watching scale model videos
>motherfuckers always spraying shit with "flat" varnish
wtf is even that? I always thought it was a spectrum like ultramatte -> matte -> satin -> gloss -> high gloss or some shit
Anonymous No.95912770 [Report]
>>95912748
I think you got it, honestly. You could maybe darken the shadows for a bit more contrast but it looks nice already
Anonymous No.95912778 [Report]
>>95912766
it's a varnish that makes your models 2d, duh
Anonymous No.95912861 [Report] >>95912963
>>95911788
>That NMM looks disgustingly garish
and i agree, it's just an example of how shadows can be pushed, the same could be done without making a thousand planes of light on the same plate, like the horse i posted at the start

take your sword for example, just making the bottom half twice as dark and adding a brighther highlight to the edge would give it a lot more interest without going to the extreme of looking like a dumb nmm

but again, if you like it as is you do you, it's just some (opinionated obviously) friendly advice


p.s.: have a look at this: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hsgFPMsnAKE
Anonymous No.95912963 [Report]
>>95912861
I'll probably do that next time I paint something for a skirmish, boardgames or pure display purposes.
Anonymous No.95912988 [Report]
>>95912277
A decent take. I actually did fill a lot of gaps but didn't realize how back the one on his back was until the model was primed.
Anonymous No.95913311 [Report] >>95913381
>>95912766
Google is too hard? its matte.
Anonymous No.95913331 [Report] >>95913364 >>95913375 >>95913491 >>95915283
>>95911401
>>95911528
>>95912277
Thanks for the replies. I primed it in bad conditions. I didn't realize heat and low humidity played such a big role. So that amount of pimer is normal? Will the acrylic paint cover up the roughness or should I just stripe it? The primer is several days cured by know so idk how hard that is to take off. The primer is Rust-Oleum mat grey. Randomly I bought a small bottle of Vallejo surface primer thinking it was paint. Is that Vallejo primer brush on or air brush? Pic olis of a test coat i did.
Anonymous No.95913341 [Report] >>95913732 >>95914329
Made a bit more progress on the sorcerer tonight.
Anonymous No.95913364 [Report] >>95913375
>>95913331
Primer is usually airbrush. You can actually brush primer on though. I've done it a couple of times when I didn't want to set my airbrush up and the weather wasn't good enough for spray cans. It works fine. There's some youtube videos you can find on brushing on primer.
Anonymous No.95913375 [Report]
>>95913331
Is this plastic model? If so isopropyl alcohol bath and some scrubbing will get most of it off but it's a pain in the ass so if it's just a few models you may want to cut your loses. You also have mold lines which need scrapping before priming. In the first image you can see it on the waist and inside the pauldron.

Be glad that you learnt this lesson at this stage.

>>95913364
if you want a relatively fool proof brush on primer look into gesso primer in art supply shops.
Anonymous No.95913381 [Report] >>95913547
>>95913311
I did, and the answers I found there were not consistent; so, I did what any reasonable person does and asked a knowledgeable community about the matter. In short, neck yourself.
Anonymous No.95913491 [Report] >>95914023 >>95915283
>>95913331
NTA, but so what if the primer is grainy? Isn't for the paint to stick easier?
Anonymous No.95913547 [Report]
>>95913381
>and the answers I found there were not consistent

You are a retard it seems.

https://ak-interactive.com/product/flat-varnish-2/

>Flows smoothly in an airbrush; adheres to the surface and dries perfectly with a soft matt finish.

Find one result that is not consistent with it being matte.
Anonymous No.95913732 [Report] >>95913766
>>95913341
Wha who is this guy? Where is the model from?
Anonymous No.95913766 [Report]
>>95913732
Trench crusade
Anonymous No.95914023 [Report] >>95915283
>>95913491
If your model doesn't look good under a microscope, your painting is shit.
Anonymous No.95914329 [Report]
>>95913341
That's a really cool mini and you've done a good job so far.
Anonymous No.95914331 [Report] >>95914341 >>95914359
>>95900143
Coomer incel
Anonymous No.95914341 [Report]
>>95914331
go back and kys faggot
Anonymous No.95914359 [Report]
>>95914331
>t. redditor
Anonymous No.95914367 [Report]
>>95902495
>Gigachad Prussian Sigmarines
Huh, turns out there WAS a way to salvage the design.
Anonymous No.95914417 [Report] >>95914761
>>95908601
Fuck, anon, I almost spilled my coffee.
Anonymous No.95914469 [Report] >>95914761
>>95908601
Uhh I always look from different angles to avoid shit like this. Got a laugh out of me though
Anonymous No.95914761 [Report] >>95914774 >>95914781
>>95914417
>>95914469
It's fine, it'll be impossible to look from under his chin once he's snug inside his comfy golden armour.
Anonymous No.95914764 [Report] >>95914780
>>95900143
She looks ridiculous being carried around like that on one arm by a Beastman shorter than her
Anonymous No.95914774 [Report] >>95915261
>>95914761
The face looks really good and yeah you can't see anything wrong with eyes, nice job.
Anonymous No.95914780 [Report]
>>95914764
https://youtu.be/fyparoO2Z0A?si=j8Y-yyWU2vaIUBOg
Anonymous No.95914781 [Report] >>95915261
>>95914761
99% of people will only ever see that mini from 5 feet away or more anyways. If its a gamepiece, perfect is the enemy of good.
Anonymous No.95915000 [Report] >>95915032 >>95915656
>tfw paint something new and unique to you
>/tg/ will help me if its bad, and will encourage me if its going well
>tfw 0 replies
is this the worst outcome, not bad enough to require comment to help, and not interesting enough for comment
Anonymous No.95915032 [Report] >>95915197
>>95915000
>triple 0s
Nice. Did you ask for feedback?
Anonymous No.95915060 [Report] >>95915080
>>95912382
he looks pretty crusty, could just be the camera. Have you gone for a camo scheme on the armor? It's hard to tell at mini scale when the difference in the splotches and the armor itself is small. I'd say maybe darken the splotches with a darker brown so they read better. I'm mainly looking at his right shoulder pad. I'd recommend pushing the darks generally, that mini is very one tone, so either washing it so it's more contrasting or adding in black elements of clothing or that weapon. But it looks like a cool newbie mini
Anonymous No.95915080 [Report]
>>95915060
Not gonna lie I thought he was doing some kinda Nurgle scheme with how crusty and dull it looked.
Anonymous No.95915141 [Report] >>95915154 >>95915169 >>95915178 >>95915239 >>95915242 >>95915963
Is this is insane as I think it is, or do all they steps make sense?
Anonymous No.95915150 [Report]
>>95895458
>Brand name
They're the same brand
>possibly price tag.
The more expensive one is bigger.

FFS

>>95895394
11252 is 100ml and 183 is 60ml. That's the difference.
Anonymous No.95915154 [Report] >>95915169
>>95915141
Its pure art competition schizo shit that only matters if your minis gonna be photgraphed a million times 2 inches away from the lens.
Anonymous No.95915169 [Report]
>>95915141
Yeah, 1 and 3, skip the rest.

>>95915154
Not even, it's just retarded.
Anonymous No.95915178 [Report] >>95915203
>>95915141
I don't understand what the aim is? is the next step to contrast paint sloppa all over? otherwise whats the point of a "perfect" zenithal highlight where your darks are brown for some reason
Anonymous No.95915197 [Report]
>>95915032
kind of, but I also just assumed it looked bad in my head
Anonymous No.95915198 [Report] >>95915217 >>95915656
I tried to improve skin as you guys suggested but backed up each time, I don't think I can do this better, at least now. Brightened hair, however. Maybe with other mini in the future. So I call her finished, unless there is something glaring that I missed.
Anonymous No.95915203 [Report] >>95915219 >>95915242
>>95915178
Presuming the brown is to make the overall paintjob warmer
Anonymous No.95915212 [Report]
She is 75mm, by the way.
Anonymous No.95915217 [Report] >>95915252
>>95915198
niezłe tabletki uspokajające firmy labofarm
Anonymous No.95915219 [Report] >>95915230 >>95915242
>>95915203
it's more fun when people use purple, orange, pink, etc somthing with saturation imo
Anonymous No.95915223 [Report]
And third angle.
Anonymous No.95915230 [Report]
>>95915219
I think that model in question is a wood elf so brown makes sense, I hear you I think spring/fall/winter woodelves are peak.
Anonymous No.95915239 [Report]
>>95915141
I don't really see this making sense. If it's in preparation for memechop then it's not worth the effort since it's gonna look mediocre anyway. If it's in preparation for a higher effort paintjob you can adjust colors when spraying and there's no point in doing all this beforehand.
Anonymous No.95915242 [Report]
>>95915219
>>95915203
>>95915141
Why not just skip black and prime the model in Oxide Red and then zenithal/drybrush with a warm white if you want the warmer paint job? It's easy, it skips multiple pointless points of failure, and it gets the same effect. And it's not adding a cold white drybrush on top of a warm white zenithal.
Anonymous No.95915252 [Report]
>>95915217
Kupuję już tylko po 150 w butelce, bo za szybko schodzą. Ale robią za dobre buteleczki do farb, werniksów, etc.
Anonymous No.95915261 [Report]
>>95914774
Appreciated

>>95914781
Well technically it's more of a display piece since I have yet to play a single game, but I agree
Anonymous No.95915283 [Report] >>95915310
>>95913491
Grainy texture will be visible on the model post-painting. In some circumstances it would actually be a benefit, such as on a model meant to be mostly/entirely stone. On ones like that anon showed it fucks with how materials are read and makes it look not quite as good.

>>95914023
This guy's a full blown fuckwit. They don't have to look good under a microscope but if you can see with the naked eye that your mini looks like it's coated in sand particles, it's not going to look better when painted.

>>95913331
I have some airbrush primer that I just paint directly on, it works fine. It's preferable to rattlecan where I live which works approximately 5% of the time due to the weather. It's up to you if you want to strip it and start over; if you're tolerant of learning how to strip it back and add to the total time of painting, go for it. If it feels like you're wasting your time and it's negatively impacting your enjoyment of just painting, go ahead and keep painting it. At the end of the day everything you paint on a mini can be improved upon and you will be your own worst critic.
Anonymous No.95915310 [Report] >>95915808
>>95915283
>This guy's a full blown fuckwit
I thought that was a sarcastic remark from anon, a classic jape
Anonymous No.95915656 [Report]
>>95915000
Imo, really good stuff tends to get way less replies in general.

>>95915198
Why not smooth the oils a bit more, anon?
Anonymous No.95915808 [Report]
>>95915310
Some people just don't get humour.
Anonymous No.95915959 [Report]
>>95899132
>>95899038
I can vouch for Happysunamy, who I'm sure is the seller in the bottom of that pic. Also, if you just favorite stuff there and follow that store, they usually toss out coupons pretty regularly.
Anonymous No.95915963 [Report] >>95919749
>>95915141
Anyone who tells you to drybrush a model before you even paint the base coats on is not educated enough to give advice on painting minis.
Anonymous No.95915990 [Report] >>95915994 >>95916013
Terrain thread died. Posting wip.
Anonymous No.95915994 [Report] >>95916009
>>95915990
Cute waffles
Anonymous No.95916009 [Report] >>95916013
>>95915994
Thanks, some more baking.
Anonymous No.95916013 [Report] >>95916064
>>95915990
>>95916009
are these edible?
Anonymous No.95916049 [Report]
I can't escape his dumb fucking face even outside of youtube
Anonymous No.95916064 [Report]
>>95916013
it would be extremely painful
Anonymous No.95916480 [Report] >>95916695
I'm experimenting with this glossy red coat, now I'm wondering what color of trim I should go for.

Gold? it would fit the gaudy red.
But a black or gun metal would look tuff.

What do you guys think
Anonymous No.95916695 [Report]
>>95916480
I think a fairly bright silver would look nice too
Anonymous No.95916810 [Report] >>95917839
current 100 years war army
Anonymous No.95916826 [Report] >>95918706 >>95918811
another guy ready for basing
Anonymous No.95916833 [Report] >>95917405 >>95917436 >>95918284
Finshed this golem my brother in law printed me. I'd like to try my hand at resin pouring for the little river bed on the base and need all the tips you guys got. Should I pre-paint the bottom a blue-ish color or is dyeing the resin enough? Waves? Do I absolutely need to hot glue borders on or will good tape work the same?
Anonymous No.95917405 [Report] >>95917436
>>95916833
>Should I pre-paint the bottom a blue-ish color or is dyeing the resin enough?
Depends how deep you want it to look.
The darker you paint the bottom, the deeper it will look.
Dying the resin helps it look like water and not a pool of resin, but inks or purpose made resin dyes are recommended over paints, as they tend to make resin go cloudy.
>Waves?
Resin will set to a flat level. Fine for a pond or a puddle, but not a river. Again, depends on what you're going for.
>Do I absolutely need to hot glue borders on or will good tape work the same?
Tape should work.
You're working with a tiny amount of resin, so it shouldn't be heavy enough to push the tape off, but leave it to set in a watertight container just in case.
Double up the tape and hot glue the joints of the tape if you want to be extra safe.
While it's wet, the resin might off-gas and make bubbles, you might want that or you might night. You can try and pop them with something sharp but a flame works better.
Resin is funny with surface tension, so it might not flow into gaps without some persuasion with a stick, or it might also creep up the bits it is touching, like the tape or the riverbank, so be aware you may need to deal with afterwards.
Emphasis on "afterwards", because one you pour that shit, it's in the hands of fate.
If something seems to have gone wrong that you can't amend immediately (bubbles, small leaks, etc.), your best bet is to just accept it and leave the resin alone to completely before you try anything.
Don't try mixing more resin to top up uncured stuff if your levels are too low/the wrong colour, don't try and wipe curing resin off places it shouldn't be, shake up your resin an hour or two before you pour and let it get some of the bubbles out before you mix, protect everything from dust after you pour.
I'm sure someone knowitall faggot will chime in to tell me everything I just said is bullshit and you should subscribe to their online resin pouring masterclass instead.
Anonymous No.95917436 [Report]
>>95916833
>>95917405
Ran out of space, but always worth doing a test piece first too. I wouldn't count on it happening, but there's a tiny chance the resin in your mini (and base, assuming it's not just regular styrene plastic?) could upset the pouring resin and cause some unwanted reaction.
Anonymous No.95917839 [Report] >>95920471
>>95916810
fantastic stuff! I love how colourful it all is
Anonymous No.95917998 [Report] >>95918271
>>95904884
The original female Apotheothis with the abs. The new pinup Apotheosis is so disappointing to me. Good luck, I've tried before but maybe my google fu has atrophied.
Anonymous No.95918191 [Report] >>95918998
Considering putting some red stain in his mouth but not sure yet. Too much gore might look tacky.
Anonymous No.95918271 [Report] >>95918292
>>95917998
This one? Lower right.
Anonymous No.95918284 [Report]
>>95916833
Pic related was my last attempt at something similar.
I tinted the resin with speed paint, and used tape to make the border. I was able to avoid leaks, but you can see that it came out a bit...wobbly. Not the worst thing, since it supposed to be seaside-ish. The surface also ended up a bit uneven; I actually ended up doing a second pour because the way it leveled out ended up leaving a 'bald' patch. Took a damn long time to cure, as well.
Anonymous No.95918292 [Report] >>95918297
>>95918271
Yes, thank you anon. That's ebay I assume? I've wanted it for ages. I don't know why I didn't try eBay, I've just had a blank spot there from bad experiences oh god 20 years ago
Anonymous No.95918297 [Report] >>95918322
>>95918292
Yes, Chinese recaster on eBay. I'd probably buy a whole bunch together to save on shipping if I were you.
Anonymous No.95918322 [Report] >>95918340
>>95918297
I'll probably do that. Might buy a spare as well as some other stuff so I don't feel as shit when I inevitably fuck it up. Again, thank you a lot anon.
Anonymous No.95918340 [Report]
>>95918322
Enjoy, and post when you paint it.
Anonymous No.95918354 [Report]
>>95911422
That's more the lighting of the photo messing with the perception. It looks better in real life. Dry pigments will do that
Anonymous No.95918706 [Report] >>95919671
>>95916826
where is this guy from
Anonymous No.95918811 [Report]
>>95916826
pretty cool guy, I like him
Anonymous No.95918817 [Report]
My wife painted up the party for my campaign group, very cool
Anonymous No.95918998 [Report]
>>95918191
I would add a little blood to the corpses, his claws, chin, and fur below the mouth. It may sound like too much but just a little in those places will really bring the model to life. Everything feels very monochrome at the moment.
Anonymous No.95919052 [Report] >>95919317 >>95920843
Painted this bike captain
Anonymous No.95919204 [Report] >>95919223 >>95919332
Would a black wash that more or less doesn't tint flat surface areas that much be a good universal go to acrylic wash?
Anonymous No.95919223 [Report] >>95919376
>>95919204
Black is pretty harsh, I wouldn't put it on everything.
Anonymous No.95919317 [Report] >>95919427
>>95919052
Paintjob is good but I wanted to say the base looks really nice. The texture does look like sand.
Anonymous No.95919325 [Report] >>95919379
That's not the right proportions is it
Anonymous No.95919332 [Report] >>95919376
>>95919204
>Would a black wash
no
Anonymous No.95919376 [Report]
>>95919223
>>95919332
I guess I left some context out.
Stormtrooper on the right is covered in dark tone diluted with speedpaint medium (what is the medium made up of?) 50/50 and it turned out pretty good.
Which is why I asked about black wash in the way I did.
https://youtu.be/Cb_mLXxUqU4?t=412
Anonymous No.95919379 [Report]
>>95919325
If it won't hurt your wallet, you can try MadrobotMiniatures.
His stuff is more 40k adjacent, and the heroic scale proportions seem to be closer to the previous Cadians cartoony proportions.
Anonymous No.95919427 [Report]
>>95919317
Thanks! It's just a thick layer of vallejo grey sand with a basecoat, wash and drybrush. Takes about 16 hours to dry but looks much better than a thin coat
Anonymous No.95919431 [Report] >>95919921
>>95895196 (OP)
My LGS is stocking the "Avante Art" brand name of ScaleColor lately. Anyone know what ScaleColor White Sands is called under their new name? Half my shit is painted with it and I don't want to redo it all because some company cucked me.
Anonymous No.95919441 [Report] >>95919678
It's an extremely long shot, but does anyone know if the Dettol sold in Europe works as a paint stripper? The UK one has Chloroxylenol but the ingredient list on this euro bottle has Chlorocresol which seems to be a different compound.
Anonymous No.95919502 [Report] >>95919635 >>95919680
How does one "predict" how an acrylic wash will effect the outcome of a miniature's look? Or do you just take a chance and learn from it if it doesn't work out?
Anonymous No.95919635 [Report] >>95919680
>>95919502
Paint and wash a piece of sprue.
Anonymous No.95919671 [Report] >>95921640
>>95918706
northstar
https://www.northstarfigures.com/prod.php?prod=7792
Anonymous No.95919678 [Report] >>95919728
>>95919441
dettol is gross, use IPA
Anonymous No.95919680 [Report] >>95919755 >>95920287 >>95920507 >>95920511 >>95920721
>>95919502
see >>95919635
Or use Stahly's tool.
Anonymous No.95919728 [Report] >>95920075
>>95919678
I do but I have some plastic minis with a thick paintjob of unknown composition that isopropyl alcohol can't remove.
Anonymous No.95919749 [Report]
>>95915963
It's slapchop.
Stahly's a good painter.
Anonymous No.95919755 [Report] >>95920338 >>95920436
>>95919680
Oh man, nice. Have any others?
Anonymous No.95919921 [Report]
>>95919431
>My LGS
They still exist? All I have in the biggest city in Australia is warhammer stores and a single big boardgame store chain in a few spots. There was one in my suburb when I moved here, but it never had anyone in it and shut down pretty soon after I moved there.
Anonymous No.95920075 [Report]
>>95919728
try acetone-free nail polish remover then


some primers you can't remove without damaging the plastic
Anonymous No.95920287 [Report] >>95920338
>>95919680
I was not expecting something like that. Thank you.
Somebody needs to get Stahly to review marine juice now.

Not gonna lie, I think I'm retarded when it comes to applying washes. I always feel like I don't get it right. Seems you can't just slather it on something and call it a day. You gotta make sure you're using a proper amount and maybe using a dry brush to remove excess wash especially when it is pooling.
Anonymous No.95920338 [Report] >>95920361 >>95920377 >>95920507 >>95920547
>>95920287
You could also look into oil/enamel washes. Imo, they are better in every single aspect, and they are much easier to use. You literally can't mess it up with them. Don't get me wrong, acrylics are completely fine, but it is so much more work with them.

>>95919755
I'm not on my desktop now, but if you search the archive, you'll find pretty much all his tools I've uploaded in the past. If anons want, I can later upload the latest version of all his tools I have: the 7-in-1 standard acrylics, and 6-in-1 quickpaints (including the newest AK paints).
Anonymous No.95920361 [Report] >>95920375
>>95920338
>You literally can't mess it up with them
you literally can in multiple ways tho
Anonymous No.95920375 [Report] >>95920408
>>95920361
Apply it somewhere you don't want to:
>clean it with white spirit
Apply too much:
>dab it away with
or
>clean it with white spirit
Apply too little:
>add more
ugly sharp transition:
>smooth it with a dry brush

How?
Anonymous No.95920377 [Report] >>95920436 >>95920507
>>95920338
>If anons want,
Yes, please.
Anonymous No.95920408 [Report] >>95920431
>>95920375
forget/choose not to varnish before washing:
>reactivate (certain) acrylic paints underneath
thin too much or use shitty oil paints:
>have the pigments in the wash break up resulting in a grainy uneven wash
wait too little before sealing the oil with another coat of varnish
>have a chance to fuck up the varnish or the wash
sure, those are easy mistakes to avoid, but they do happen
Anonymous No.95920431 [Report]
>>95920408
>>reactivate (certain) acrylic paints underneath
That's just AP being AP.
>>have the pigments in the wash break up resulting in a grainy uneven wash
Remove it with white spirit and start again.
>wait too little before sealing the oil with another coat of varnish
Sure, it can happen, but you can easily clean up and do it again.

I'm not saying these can't happen, but compared to acrylics, none of these mistakes are "final" as in "I have to strip down the entire mini to correct it." All in all, the worst that can happen is that you'll have to clean up the oils and start again.
Anonymous No.95920436 [Report] >>95920507 >>95920511
>>95919755
>>95920377
nta, i have v1.5 from a past thread
>https://litter.catbox.moe/yv6ir73n25fln84x.pdf
Anonymous No.95920471 [Report] >>95920586
>>95917839
Thanks, yah the colors were a big draw to start the army

ALso got this neat reflective display case for them
Anonymous No.95920507 [Report] >>95920511
>>95920338
>>95920377
Anon already posted the latest 7-in-1 here >>95920436
the washes are here >>95919680

So I'll just add the latest quickpaints:
https://files.catbox.moe/orsx7b.jpg
Anonymous No.95920511 [Report]
>>95920507
>>95920436
>>95919680
Thank you, gentlemen.
Anonymous No.95920547 [Report]
>>95920338
>You literally can't mess it up with them
Watch me somehow mess it up.
>t. tard
Anonymous No.95920586 [Report] >>95921536
>>95920471
where'd you get the case?
Anonymous No.95920721 [Report] >>95920747
>>95919680
Those Vallejo washes look surprisingly vibrant or the guy at least had no pooling with them. Their black seems a bit more stronger than Nuln Oil or at least less reddish?
Anonymous No.95920747 [Report] >>95921188 >>95921810
>>95920721
Vallejo washes are great. I dont get why people always look over them and its always "AP for washes" when someone asks for an GW alternative. Vallejo Umber wash is excellent, and so is their sepia and flesh washes.
Anonymous No.95920843 [Report]
>>95919052
really cool
Anonymous No.95921188 [Report]
>>95920747
Different anon but I remember using their flesh wash (old game color) and it had serious problems with random bubbles. One mini looked almost like those Looney Tunes character because bubble was located directly at his eye. So it's most likely bad experience.
Anonymous No.95921316 [Report] >>95921383 >>95921465
What do you guys think about wearable magnifying glasses? Is it worth it?
Anonymous No.95921383 [Report]
>>95921316
Obviously, they work.
However, they are quite heavy (even if you are used to wearing glasses in general).
I tried such glasses for a while, but i could never get used to the differences in depth perception.
Anonymous No.95921465 [Report]
>>95921316
Absolutely worth it.
Anonymous No.95921536 [Report]
>>95920586
Unfortunately I got it as a gift. but assumedly its from amazon, probably type something in like "small mirror display" or something.

It is a good way for saving floorspace. I just need a front cover so dust doesn't settle on them.
Anonymous No.95921640 [Report]
>>95919671
thanks
Anonymous No.95921781 [Report]
new
>>95921769
>>95921769
>>95921769
Anonymous No.95921810 [Report]
>>95920747
I am a little tempted to try their black, and the Game Color range are the only model paints I can buy locally at the LGS that doesn't even do wargames. The sepia is also nice, but not sure if I'd have many use cases for that Red/Blue/Yellow though.