Thread 96389366

Work in Progress "Stripes First" Edition

>Full-on /WIP/ OP Links Pastebin
https://pastebin.com/BE42AEcD

>WIP Tutorial Images Mega
https://mega.nz/#F!TvQFCaLb!w8WZKCcOsTRasxrI0JWezw

>Saint Duncan's "Six Things I Wish I Knew When I Started Painting"
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ufP8ka3KGno

>Saint Duncan also explains thinning your paints
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wxWgsqSf74s

>Paint thinning 102
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sBDVPoNXyVI

>4 EASY Chipping Tricks For Beginners
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ku4comhKHJM

>Decal Like a Pro
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SYKLiEW7p9c

>How to Edge Highlight
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KoRbYuAfbEk

>How to use contrast style paints
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IhholrozptI

>How to Paint with Tremors
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oqp76vAJu9g

>Airbrush Priming and Thinning
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jkntrSBvXxE
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IGjBQzoukFg
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=00JVUxABe44
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AEqT_R41JX8

>Who's Johnny, she'd say, and smile in her special way
https://1d6chan.miraheze.org/wiki/Johnny

>Previous Threads:
>>96372057
>>96346066
>>96323165
>>96298273

How's Pro Acryl's black brush on primer compared to their airbrush primer when applied by brush?

A few of my GW paints are a little chunky. I'd say Rakarth Flesh is probably the biggest offender. Is there any way to fox that and smooth it out? I have a vortex mixer and a couple of agitator balls in it, but even shaking the shit out of it doesn't help with the chunks.

>>96389737
just today i put lead fishing weight into one of my pots with some water and it turned okay
i bet the dried chunks wont melt no matter what you do

How thin/thick should paint be in an airbrush? I imagine it's supposed to be thinner then a brush because of the existence of thinners.

Secret Santa gift I recieved a bit late but finally done. thanks anon

>>96389903
Roughly milk, but go by feel until you get smooth spray at 15-25 psi depending on your airbrush, but not so thinned that it runs. If you overthin, you can reduce psi until it sprays properly. Maybe I'm a retard but I play with thinning and psi every time I airbrush

>>96389903
Extremely fucking thin. The hardest part of airbrushing for me is finding the paint/thinner ratio between runny liquid and clogged

>>96389903
"Milk consistency". So a bit runny but not as thin as water. 1 part paint to 1-1,5 parts thinner usually works but you should always test it before going onto the model.

>>96389917
that is really fuckin creepy and notice how he made the layer lines culmate into the iris like that
good job and would hang on my wall as a trophy

>>96389924
>>96389935
>>96389926
Appreciate it, milky is brush thin so that helps

Here are the last two lava bois I'm working on, and a flame qt3.14 I finished up.

>>96389977
Cute. Want fire spriggan hobby gf.

>>96389917
That looks great

>>96390609
>not using the leaked stalhy tool

all those other charts were not very useful anyways

What's your longest-standing model on the workbench, past or present? For me it's a Gorkanaut closing in on a year now because I couldn't be arsed to finish it once Orktober wrapped up.
>>96390631
>leaked Stalhy tool
Not one word of that phrase nor its implications surprise me, the grifting fuck. Did someone scrape his Patreon and toss it on Kemono or do I need to look elsewhere for it?

Liquitex titanium white ink used instead of water to thin corax white makes a white that covers incredible well
This is two coats of it over black

>>96390609
here, I'll even uploaded it 4U litter(dot) catbox(dot)moe/4pm78hpnwvsincl1(dot)pdf

>>96389954
>notice how he made the layer lines culmate into the iris like that

>>96390672
>What's your longest-standing model on the workbench, past or present
I think it was the admech chicken plane, thing took me like 3 weeks or even more

>>96390672
it's uploaded to litterbox every other thread
grab it while it's hot

>https://litter.catbox.moe/kn5fidklbp1bym49.pdf

i don't even know what kemono is and at this point i’m too afraid to ask

>>96390672
>Did someone scrape his Patreon and toss it on Kemono or do I need to look elsewhere for it?
I bought his charts and shared them here a few months ago.

Other kind anon reuploaded it here:>>96390686

>>96390708
Kemono.cr is a patreon scraper website
It's mostly porn however it also has a lot of 3d prints and modeling patreons on it too,

>>96390672
>What's your longest-standing model on the workbench, past or present?
does it count if i started something and left the hobby for almost 10 years before returning and finishing it?

>>96390677
>white ink used instead of water to thin corax white makes a white that covers incredible well
based bt anon was right
...actually, are you bt anon

>>96390710
>I bought his charts and shared them here a few months ago.
so it was you, thanks for taking one for the team, may you live long

>>96390729
saving that one for...reasons

>>96390672
I picked up one of these and built and primed it when it came out, I'm not a SM player I just thought it was a really cool limited sculpt. I'll crack into him eventually.

>>96390740
No, I'm just using his black armour technique (badly) and when I was testing out how to get a good easy white I stumbled into this and wanted to share.
I assume I'm not the first to use it but I have never seen it talked about

>>96390756
Coomer.cr is the same but for onlyfans.

>>96390780
Sorry, it's .st now

>>96390770
I think he mentioned corax white + white ink once, but it could have been someone else desu. White looks very smooth anyway, nice. What proportions are you using?

>>96390799
It's about 2:1 ink to corax

>>96390780
>>96390792
reasons i say!

thx

>>96390672
I've had a Red Gobbo model sitting unfinished for something like 4 years now. I don't even remember what the paintjob I did to it already looks like.

>>96389445
Black and dark neutral grey brush on well, trick is to thin it as little as you need to get it to flow from the brush. If you thin it too much it doesn't adhere as well. Like regular proacryl it has a little different feel than other paints due to the gel medium. Its going to look like its too thick on the palette, but when you put it on the model it will cover fine in two coats. Also nice that they're color matched to the colors in the rest of the line so you can clean up overspill easily.

whats your deciding factor on picking a paint line?

>>96389903
Always have a couple test models on painting handles ready to test on. Better you find that your paint is too thick/thin and will spit all over the place on a test model rather than something you're on the last step of.

>>96390914
If it's more expensive I assume it's better so I buy that one.

>>96390780
>>96390792
>so many things missing from paid tiers and DMs
So much for that

>>96390914
I don't stick to one particular line and nobody should.
I have vallejo, two thin coats, citadel, tamiya, some AK interactive and probably some others.
All paint lines have good and bad paints

Chipping away at my Goonmongers.

Two more specialists to do. Don’t really want to buy more heartrenders to do the aspirants so I think they will be standard bodies.

Is vallejo's website down or something? I've been trying to get on there to look at the full range since yesterday and I keep timing out. Sometimes I get to one page but I cant navigate anywhere else. I just want to look at their spray primer range

>>96391100
Yeah, seems like something is up with it.
Vallejo as a company is down, I would just look at other options if I were you. No point in supporting private equity firms who's only purpose is to buy up companies you like and ruin them.

>>96391130
That sucks. There's a few paints from them I'd like to get my hands on in any case. Their metals are the best from what I hear and ice yellow looks nice and is apparently a really good highlight mix in.

>>96391199
For the metallic make sure its the vallejo metal color, it is a different line than vallejo acrylic paint metallics. Ice yellow and sunny skin tone are the nice highlight colors people recommend but there are similar colors from other lines as well. Lots of hobby websites will let you buy single colors to put together the palette that you want.

I'm broke so I'm making my own Kapricus.

>>96390708
>>96390729
>the one patreon I am into being Tortuga Bay didn't even pop up on my lists of search results on that site
Well rip. Still happy that I learned something new today.

>>96389366 (OP)
Neat, my shoulder pad made the OP.

>>96390672
Picrel probably took me the longest. It was my first big tank so I had to figure out the shading on those big flat panels and I did a ton of custom touches and little detail work like sculpting, freehanding and making the hinges on the side doors functional.

>>96390672
>longest-standing model on the workbench
Probably this girl. I've done a little work on the hair shading since moving, but not much.

>>96390672
A helbrute for about 3 years now, got it to basecoats and got stuck so I moved on. Painted a bunch of other word bearers and I've since changed my army scheme twice, so it sits with another coat of white to await its time in the sun.

>>96391725
Ohh I remember her when we were figuring a Nadeshiko color scheme. You've been around posting something else? I feel like I haven't seen your work in a while

>>96391617
Nice free hand

>>96391741
Oh yeah, just been off and on. Been posting more lately though. I'm also painting the Praetor in the OP and a few other things. I've got to get back to her at some point out of respect to Yuru Camp anon though (and apparently just half the thread liking YC). I do want to finish her before I start working on my last current Neko Galaxy figure.

>>96391617
I remember when you were doing this. Great work.

>>96391288
Anything to avoid canon votann vehicles, really. Keep at it

>tell grandmother about how I'm having a hard time getting back to painting and want to find some small random projects to get back into it
>out of the blue she gifts me a grab bag of 15mm historical dudes
>6 archers, 1 legionary with shield, a couple american revolutionary dudes, and a horse
>apparently she just poked around online, found these, and thought they were neat. pretty fuckin impressive for being her 90s ngl
Not my usual fare, but they're pretty fun just to slap a basecoat and wash on. Feels blessed man

>>96392089
based grandmother.

>>96391233
I've found a couple of USA sites that carry a variety. Michigan toy soldier and Noble Knight Currently browsing both and trying to fill a cart to see what's available and cheaper.

>>96390672
>What's your longest-standing model on the workbench, past or present?
I recently "finished" the building of a model I started 10+ years ago, before the End Times, before the killing of WHFB.

I wanted to turn a Maulerfiend into a Skrye-themed Hellpit Abomination. For obvious reasons the project lost steam and sat unfinished for years, probably 70% prepared and put together.

Now I don't know if I'll ever paint this or if it'll end up in my post-death auction as-is. I don't have plans to play The Old World unless the legacy armies become real boys.

>>96392089
Damn what a nice grandma.
You better treat her right anon

>>96392307
Sick. What's the head from?

>>96392325
I legit forget, but it was some wolf kit of some kind. Possibly WHFB or possibly Space Wolf. Some prior version of Thunderwolves, maybe? Then I cut out part of the Maulerfiend head to make the helmet for the wolf head.

>>96391233
model air silver isn't quite as good as metal color but still way better than other brands. if you don't plan to paint a lot of silver it's worth getting the smaller and cheaper bottle

vallejo's golds are ugly it's really only the steel and silver range where vallejo is top dog. scale 75 has them beat in interesting metallic shades.

>>96390672
>What's your longest-standing model on the workbench, past or present?
probably some dactylis conversion i attempted a while back. it took quite a long time to get the model to look like how i wanted it to, but it's still gone unpainted, and i haven't painted anything in months either. hopefully i can get back into it someday. i would like to think it'd be fun to paint it.

>>96390672
I think I spent a year and a half painting/converting my Boss Grimskull inspired Deffkilla Wartrike in on-again off again sessions.

I think in terms of man hours the longest I've spent on a model was about 40 hours in kitbashing and painting (then retouching) a Meka version of a Gargantuan Squiggoth.

Maybe my version of Ghazghkull or Mortarion came close in the 18-24 hour range IIRC. .

>>96390672
I have a Deff Dread half paint from the box of orkz I bought when I first started painting. I gave up painting and then came back a couple of years later. Might finish him one day, but probably won't.

Do you guys have any examples of improvement. I love going back to stuff I've previously done to see how I've improved. Here for example, a boardgame piece I painted a year ago on the left and one I painted recently on the right. Something I struggle with is highlighting and shadows. I always thought it looked wrong if colours went from dark to bright too suddenly and all my models ended up looking flat. I knew how to glaze, but I'd sit there and glaze it until it was all just the same colour anyway.

I rarely paint everything on a sprue, so I'm tempted to go back and paint some left over models from when I first started to compare. It might be good to see if I've gone backwards in any areas as well.

>>96392737
Yeah, sometimes. I rarely paint the same thing more than once, but I do have some tau I painted over time. I'd have to go back and really put time and effort into one again to see how good I could do one with max effort though. Just to compare like a normal fire warrior I did initially to one I could do now.

>>96392813
The cloak on the middle one looks so good. Saving that for reference. That's the sort of shit I struggle with. Like what intensity of light does each part get. Also the freehand cracked shoulder armour on the first one looks mad.

>>96392737
Not sure if this exactly what you'd intended, but I think its a fun picture. I painted the dude on the left a few months ago after getting back into the hobby as an adult. The other dude is from when I was a kid.

>>96392926
That's exactly what I was looking for. Honestly pretty impressive for a kid as well.

>>96392926
That reminds me, I actually did repaint one of my actual childhood orks when I got back into it and tried to actually git gud. Not that this is the best paintjob ever, but good for comparison.

Anyone else ever look at Flameon's stuff and just think he's some kind of wizard, or that he souls his soul or something?

Zombie dragon getting nearer to completion lads. Just a few more odds and ends and the vampire rider (prince vordrhai)
Gone for a bit of an "evil dead" vibe with skull deadites rising from the grave on the base and sheeeit.

>>96393140
He is good, but I raise you Julia Moshura.

This dude did not die well... Im sitting there with my brush thinking 'bro got stabbed in the gut and his left leg chopped off. Drags himself over to a wall. There's no way this isn't way more gruesome than I'd planned. So be it'

I also put an hour or so into the main victorious crusader and I want opinions on NMM on just a sword. Does it clash if everything else is painted normal?

>>96393148
Very cool. He's smaller than I thought based on the first (larger) picture in there compared to when you're holding him.
Unless you have giant hands, I guess.
What did you use for the all over texture on the base?

>>96390677
>Liquitex titanium white ink used instead of water to thin corax white makes a white that covers incredible well
I gotta try this with a white acrylic paint. Hopefully I can make the mega white paint.

>>96393160
I do have large hands jej
He's a pretty big mini to be fair but quite skinny and spindly.
I've put him next to a 28mm human mini and a gw pot of paint for a sense of scale.
Don't forget the vamp is gonna add a bit of height to him too wirhva chunky saddle and a bid lance and banner.

>Base texture
Just sand from my local beach glued on with PVA (I live 3 min walk from a seafront) worked up with a few dry brushes.

>>96393026
I think I remember you posting this. I like how vibrant your greens are.

>>96393148
Goddamn that looked massive until I saw your thumb. Impressive work.

>>96393232
I'm a fan of bright cartoony ork skin. Especially on these older kinda goofy looking 40k orks. It's definitely not because that's the only way I know how to paint them or anything like that.

>>96392635
That fade on the fender blade is lovely and the trench is a fun addition to the mini.

>>96393200
whats that human dude from? Print?

>>96393377
Wargames Atlantic

>>96393261
>It's definitely not because that's the only way I know how to paint them or anything like that.
Where'd you learn that? Because I learnt a boring GW method and I want to unlearn it and learn your way.

Last two specialists done.

Just gotta build the Aspirants now.

>>96392737
>Do you guys have any examples of improvement.
What a long, strange trip it's been...

>>96393395
I think I picked it up by painting goblin girls instead of orks.

>>96393467
Painting goblin girls is literally why I want to get my greens vibrant.

>>96393503
Many such cases.
I would just recommend starting with like a jade/blue-green type color as the darkest, or even mixing in some purple to your darkest green, use a bright mostly pure green as the midtone, and then start to work in yellow or just use a yellow-green on the highlighted areas, and in some places like the cheeks, and ears and stuff work in a little bit of pink or fleshtone+magenta. That was pretty much what went into this skin here which I think is my best goblin skin so far.

>>96393447
huh. you're actually doing it. madlad.

>>96393533
I need to remember to by a jade/turquoise. It's like literally one of the colours I don't have, and I can't seem to get a mix I like for it. Also a pastel yellow for mixing into stuff as well. But yeah, that's exactly the look I'm going for.

>>96393582
PA's Jade is unironically one of my favorite colors. I would paint everything with it if that made any sense.

Back to painting modern skaven after a hiatus.

>>96394244
>>96394248
Cute rats

>>96394350
skaven are fearsome not cute ok?

>>96392840
Thanks. Yeah the middle one was the most recent. I think for fabrics like that my advice (other than make sure you find refereneces, is that they only highlight up to the color they're supposed to be, and then shade down very dark, rather than highlighting with a very light color. That's not a hard rule, especially on GW's more recent styles of cloaks that have really defined edges you can give them a little bit of an extra edge highlight if you want where it makes sense. BT anon's sword bretheren's capes are really good if you see him post those.

>>96394353
I'm sorry. Yes, I'm vry scrd. Plz don't tickle me with whiskers.

>>96392042
>I've got to get back to her at some point out of respect to Yuru Camp anon though
That was me you were replying to actually lol, I do hope you'll get back to her soon and I'm happy to see you around again anon.
>>96393148
Great work, I really like the colors you've used for the wing membranes.
>>96393159
It's pretty often you see weapon done in NMM with everything else being TMM I feel so I think you can get away with that.
>>96393456
>35 years in the hobby
Holy moly now that is impressive
>>96394244
>>96394248
I really like your rattos, always happy to see you finishing some more.

>forgot to turn on my fume hood when airbrushing yesterday(yes, I'm an idiot)
>blow my nose today morning
>there's tiny colored bits on the tissue
A-am I going to die? I was only spraying acrylics

>>96390672
Probably my Nautibus for Gaslands. Loved evert moment of building it

>>96394893
You'll be fine nigga. The stress from drinking all that redditor koolaid is worse to your health than sniffing a bit of acrylics.

>>96394893
Anon, we are all 45% plastics at this point, a little more in your balls wont make a difference.
In all honestly though, you will be absolutely fine, just don't make a habit out of it. It tends to be repeated exposure that causes long term health risks, not just one or two instances

>>96394893
Enjoy your mesothelioma.

>>96394893
>A-am I going to die?
Yes.

>>96394893
Your lungs are self cleaning, thank them kindly and don't overburden them.

I'm trying to paint something besides my usual games. Been interested in warcrow for some time.

Still trying to understand how to make the nmm highlights instead of wherever I think looks cool.

>>96392737
I still have my old minis. The left one was really a back rank filler, and 11 year old gave it less attention than the rest. The number of paint pots was very limited (no washes, only black ink on some models), my technique was non-existent and there were no tutorials.
The one on the right probably took the same amount of time to paint.

>>96389366 (OP)
The new BT combat patrol came with an emperor's champion sprue, and since I already have a champion I'm satisfied with, I decided to kitbash it into a castellan/marshal.
Still a few things to add, but the pose and loadout is pretty much established. Helmet is a placeholder but I will most likely go with it (or the indomitus chaplain head), combi gun is a kitbashed abomination made of the indomitus chaplain absolver pistol with a pyre pistol barrel inserted underneath.

Does the cape look good this way? Judging by the direction of and how the tabard wraps around the leg I figured there's some strong wind or something, so I tried to place it in a more dynamic way; wondering if it looks cool or is it just silly being off center.

>>96390677
Honestly that white looks even smoother than my recipe, well done. I use vallejo white ink, maybe liquitex works even better

>>96390740
Good call, I did mention it a couple times in the past few months, but someone else was talking about that even before me, so I can't take credit for it

>>96390769
Really cool sculpt, good grab. I really liked the sgt Jovan limited sculpt so I got a resin recast (cheap but not the best quality), might look into that one as well in the future

>>96395787
the cape looks a bit off to me desu

>>96395803
I can fit some other cape in a way that it stays more aligned with the marines's torso, but knowing that the tabard is violently flapping to the left (as do the purity seals in the og model) triggers my autism as a cape wouldn't hang flush on his back

Might just forego the cape

>>96394893
Dying isnt too bad, it's the shit leading up to it that's the issue.

>>96396138
And wew boy, you don't want to see what leads up to it when the cause is inhaling airbrushed acrylics
Grim.

>>96396202
Live by the brush, die by the brush.

>>96395562
I wonder how many people started on that dwarf warrior kit. My friend gave me his from when he was a kid as well. There were a couple that looked worse than yours and some he'd clearly just given up on. That failed attempt as a child traumatized him so much that he refuses to ever try painting again.

>>96394893
I used to get that when I primed with rattlecans. Was fun. Get a nose hair trimmer for a similar result but blowing out hair for a few days or use nasal sprays if you want it to be blood.

>>96392452
Proacryl metallics are on the whole pretty good, comparable to AK's metallics so they're a decent option if you can't find something else. The dark steel/rich gold/dark bronze will cover black in one coat with the lighter colors needing two. The lighter metallics are noticeably bright enough to be nice direct highlight colors for the darker metallics.

>>96392737
Made a comparison pic between my first experiment with oils (really just washes on top of basecoats with bad attempted highlights) to one of the latest in the kommando project (painted entirely with oils over ivory basecoat). Looking back at the kruleboyz army I completed I feel that I could paint them so much better now, but stripping and repainting would be a massive undertaking. Especially the leader, I really didn't like how his mount came out since I was working with limited paints (needed an opaque black and kept trying to use a semitransparent one, led to muddy results).

>>96395787
it's looks really awkward trying to raise the axe but not his elbow. like he's got a shoulder injury and is trying to reach into a cupboard.

>>96396570
Nice blends, oilbro. Your boyz have a very distinct style and earthy tone to them.

>>96396570
Based oil baron. More people should embrace the wonders of oil paints.

>>96389366 (OP)
any good book/video guide about terrains?

>>96396738
Yeah, I would think so anyway.

>>96396738
what kind of terrain? like big stuff/whole boards or small scatter terrain? For a game like killteam a half dozen tissue boxes are perfect to cut up into ruins, for larger tables Styrofoam and plastic packaging can be reused easily.

>>96396738
Depending on what you need but Vallejo have some simple guides on their page in PDF form (https://acrylicosvallejo.com/en/tutorials/).

>>96396692
>>96396666
Thank you kindly. What helps is that most of the paints are transparent or semitransparent so they all pick up a little bit of the van dyke brown preglaze and lean towards it. Really helps to unify the strong colors like indigo/sap green/dioxizine purple/india yellow so they all look like they belong together. I still need to practice getting the really vibrant colors and highlights that wappel gets, but it'll come with more practice. I'm really looking forward to finishing the kommandos, but I've been out of thinner for months.

>>96396810
thanks
>>96396781
mostly buildings and enviromental cool stuff to put on a mat, scifi-wwi, I am new to the hobby but I have a lot of foam, I want to have fun with it

>>96395787
>>96396641
I think the arm pose looks fine, especially combined with the head angle. The cloak seems okay but it definitely shifts the focus to the left side of the miniature

>>96396738
>>96396857
GW vet Nigel "Cereal Packet is Ideal" Stillman literally wrote the book on making terrain for Warhammer 40,000. Games Workshop later released a different, updated version in 2003.

>How to make Wargames Terrain (classic Stillman 1996 version):
aHR0cHM6Ly9tZWdhLm56L2ZpbGUvR1JBQm5MTEwjdy1sNkJmVFoxMDhfTkxVdVJjYTJLR01STjNKY2RhRjNJUWp2UG9oWFdEMA==

>How to Make Wargames Terrain (2003 version):
aHR0cHM6Ly9tZWdhLm56L2ZpbGUvVFpJaWtTd1kjTUwxQjBSX1E1T2d4ZmE1bzEyTGVORWtRTmdWdjJVMDQ5LUtmVm5MaFNqSQ==

>>96397386
You just know a book with a cover like that is going to be soul af.

>>96393154
wtf

>>96393154
How the fuck does he keep the brush from drying out? It looks loaded right to the fullers too, are brushes disposable to this guy?

>>96397386
I know this is a long shot but you seem like a real oldfag so I'll give it a go. When I was a kid at my LGS they gave these like small-ish GW magazines for free that had different tidbits of GW stuff introduced. I remember there were like 2 pages of different marine schemes, some fantasy stuff etc. Does that ring any bells? I'd love to find that for the nostalgia trip.

>>96393154
That is impressive, but I don't know if it's a straight upgrade or more of a sidegrade to flameon's cape embroidery. It's definitely smaller.

Getting too warm to paint so I'm going to leave it here for now. Gotta clean up all the black and knock back the white
>>96395787
As the other anon said the cloak looks good but leaves the right side(his left) feeling very empty and plain though I can't think of what would fix it

>>96397479
>Does that ring any bells?
Could be. There's an old 15-page "basics" painting guide by John Blanche (pic related), but you're not actually talking about a painting guide, right? More like a "brochure"?

Again some progress. Now the base needs adjustments.

Just made my biggest mistake ever. Finished my tank, brought out the varnish and realized i grabbed wraith one primer instead way too late.

>>96397531
Brochure, that's what it's called! Man I'm dumb. yeah it was something like that. Must've been from the early 2000s, I think. I've tried looking for it before with no luck that's why I'm bothering you with an off topic question.
>>96397534
Holy I did not realize that guy is for a diorama, this is fantastic! Very creative and everything looks great so far. The castlevania reference is just a cherry on top.

>>96397452
Gotta start painting in a sauna like the pros do.

>>96397585
Holy fug, rip in pieces. Just seeing this is making me sad

>>96397585
From this pic it just looks like it's been through some kind of sandstorm.

>>96397595
>>96397622
Yeah, at least since it’s a tank i can play it off mostly as a weathering effect. Pretty sad though, my first tank and i was really happy with it. Lesson learned i guess.

>>96397585
You can save this with some oil wash filters and just make it look weathered.

>>96397531
ok so I don't know how I didn't stumble upon it earlier but those brochures were called "world of hobby games" if anyone's interested. Now I just need to find the exact issue

I want to get 5 more sexy girl figures/busts, I'm starting to feel a little lopsided on it and like I need to get a cool ork bust or something to balance it out.

>>96397386
thank you very much

>>96397675
>busts
You making a chess set?

>>96397585
GW has confirmed this has happened multiple times to models intended for boxart or display pieces, so don't feel too bad.
It happens, sadly.

>>96397722
Nah, decades of painting and I've never done this or drank paintwater.
Human beings have varying levels of intelligence and awareness.

>>96393148
Love the undead flesh tinting - suitably creepy!

>>96397753
Are you autistic, black or both?
I never said you did do it.

>>96397675
I've always been partial to Reaper's geisha minis - example attached (their paintjob, not mine)

Anyone have ideas on how you could attack rocket launchers to these things? The shoulders have made it impossible so far.

>>96397638
Put some AP Oil Stains on the metals and some blemishes. Touched up some of the paint, gonna let this dry and probably calling it done. Tired of looking at this fucking thing.

>>96397860
Make the giant shoulder pads into rocket launchers. smooth them out, drill holes, and put little rocket tips sticking out of them.

>>96397887
Yeah this easily passes as desert weathering or something.

>>96397887
I'm still not entirely sure what you mean happened here? It doesn't look like you just sprayed it with white spray paint, more like a varnish clouded. Did you try and clean it immediately after the first spray or something?

>>96397972
It really was wraithbone spray. Fortunately when i spray varnish i start spraying further away from my models so thankfully it didn’t attach to the model as if it were just a few inches away.

>>96397902
That's cool, thanks

>>96397660
That brochure sure looks familiar and, judging by its cover - John Blanche's painting of the Black Templars that was the cover for the Third Edition boxed set - it probably dates to about 2003-ish. I have a lot of stuff like that (including a *different* painting guide by Mike McVey!), but I probably foolishly threw my copy of that one away.

Bet it's out there in digital form somewhere, though.

Does anyone have that chart that shows the AP/Vallejo equivalents of citadel paints

>>96398290
not exactly a chart but this should help >>96390708

>>96397585
>>96397887
add heavy weathering and it is completely salvageable with potentially great final result.

Progress on the next one on last lava boi. I think I'm about done save some last highlights on the face and the lava, unless you guys see something

And blacksting my wyvern. I have a super badass idea to darken the tail to the stinger, a very bright blue drop of deadly poison. But which would work better, just the bulb darkened with gradient flame like striping, or the same further up the tail?

>>96398290
>Does anyone have that chart that shows the AP/Vallejo equivalents of citadel paints
I have Vallejo's Fifth Edition chart from 2016. It might be out of date based on what I heard they been up to

aHR0cHM6Ly9tZWdhLm56L2ZpbGUvQ0JoUVRSYUojOGxGMHpUM3hnQWxpWGxOUkZtVEdrbmV5aUxEUXU0dS1GRWM3cUxCa1JuTQ==

I bought the Fanttik F2 on a youtube shill sponsorship (I swear I already had a different battery powered rotary tool in my cart and this one just looked nicer, and I didn't use the affiliate link).
Will admin, it's really nice. Even if it is probably pricier than some other comparable things.

>>96398663
>that pic
>that's not German Grey. These gray colors are all wrong.

What's a beginner friendly Black Templars paint scheme

>>96397660
I found a Third Edition unboxing video. Here's a clip of the part with the brochure that was in that box. It's different from that one, so I'm not sure when it was published. The brochure shows the MESBG, which I know existed prior to 2003 - I played some of it when there was still a Games Workshop store at Grapevine Mills Mall.

>>96398674
>The F2 Master collet is compatible with 3/32" / 2.3mm attachments. You can purchase replacement accessories based on this size.
fuck them

>>96394893
Back in the day painters spent days in a glorified cellar working with arsenic and crushed gyppo mummy by the light of a candle. Don't be a wuss and tell the microplastics who is Boss.

>>96397499
have you seen the finished product? that cape is amateur hour

>>96393154
You're amazing.

>>96397499
>well, I'd aught to be after 20 years

>>96399069
>There's something I aught to tell you
>I'm not left handed either
>*trumpets*

>>96399069
what the actual fuck lmao

>>96399069
That's tasty.

>>96399069
Actual art people shouldn't be allowed to minipaint, it's not fair. Go paint real, important things.

>>96397534
Absolutely excellent anon. Love it.

>>96399266
Like what? Paintings? No one cares about those anymore.

>>96399266
If they're doing minipainting that means they were not good enough to live off classic art

>>96377062
>how I could make little rocket tips
Tips cut from the smaller plastic or vinyl end caps for electric wires might work. Bike cable caps might also be a good size but, being metal, will be more difficult to cut.

>>96399358
The only thing less profitable than real art is miniature painting.

>>96399348
are you her? do you live off selling those pieces?

>>96399446
Nah.

>>96399477
lol I also have this saved.

New to the hobby. How much do I sand/remove down to get rid of the sprue marks? Or do I just get it all flat, even if there's some weird mark where the sprue connection was?

>>96399477
Huh, a black templar that doesn't look like the most boring shit ever. I guess miracles do happen.

>>96394893
im no doctor but you should be fine if its a one time thing, what you really should invest in is respirator of some kind just a nose and mouth one no need to overkill it.

>>96399573
You must be new here.

>>96399548
So long as you cant feel the mark, its fine.
Sometimes it can leave a visible mark on the plastic itself but it isn't actually sticking out of the model.

Maybe I >>96399548 am clipping too close to the model?
Does leaving more if a sprue nub to shave down when clipping help not leave marks?

>>96399654
That's usually the best thing to do unless you have very good snips that actually cut the plastic and don't just crush it.
Unless you paid $25 or more on the snips, yeah leave some and use a hobby knife/scalpel to cut it down

>>96399348
>>96399069
Fuck, how?

>>96399654
>Does leaving more if a sprue nub to shave down when clipping help not leave marks?
Depends what kind of mark we're talking about. If it's stressed plastic from clipping with dull tools, then yea it will help, but I'm not sure that's the case here. The part you've sanded just isn't anywhere near as smooth as the cast plastic, so there's going to be a mark there unless you sand and polish it with super high grit, which isn't worth the time when primer will hide it anyway.

alternatively, toast a pic so we can see what you're working with?

if you end up with indents from cutting sprues too close a drop of plastic cement and some light sanding will fix it.

>>96397585
Looks frosty. Add some snow

>>96399711
Kind of a shitty pic but you can see one of the blemishes. I'm getting my bearings by working on the kill team rulers before moving on to my minis. Will all of these marks "buff out" in painting? Or should I worry about it when it comes to the minis?

>>96399069
>>96399348
Time to go back into debt to get an art degree so I can paint better plastic debts.

>>96399949
If you run a finger or fingernail along it and it feels smooth you should be fine. If you really want to be sure and you have plastic glue, you can gently smooth out any rough areas or spots that are supposed to be smooth. Once you prime you'll see if there are any spots that are still too rough, and you can always scrape the primer off to fix the area then paint a little back on the spot once done.

>>96400029
Am I digging in too far? Or is this pretty normal

>>96400091
You're digging to far. You don't want to be pushing sharp edge first over the mold lines, you want to scrape the blade with the sharp edge facing away so it scrapes instead of cuts.

>>96400091
If you have any kind of sanding sticks, or even a nail file, sand it down with that

Took a break from fiddly guardsman details to knack up a couple of 40k sheds.

Does anyone know what, if any, difference there is between AK Interactive's regular terrain and their wargame terrain? The place I'm shopping is out of stock for the regular terrain snow but they have the wargame version, which is pretty significantly more expensive per ml. $11 for 250 ml vs $8 for 100 ml.
I suspect it's just the average "gamer markup", but maybe there's some difference.

>>96400150
My problem right now is definitely bad hobby knife technique. Any good vids to check out?
>>96400205
I bought 1000 grit sandpaper, but I'm thinking I should get some files from army painter or tamiya

>>96399348
Jesus that is so fucking cool

Actually, this said: >>96400280 most of my "cuts" are coming from using the back of my hobby knife to smooth it down. I'm getting better at the sharp end

>>96400315
The back of your knife shouldn't be gouging out the plastic like that. For the most part it should be doing a decent job of taking off plastic layer by layer without digging in.

>>96400324
If you look at this pic >>96399949 those lines are all front the back of the knife blade. I think I'm pressing down too hard. Sometimes I can get it nice and smooth. Other times, it skitters a little bit and creates a series of micro indents

Touched this guy up a bit. Quite pleased with how it turned out

>>96400373
You're pusshing way too hard in that case. You should basically be gliding it across the plastic and it should be coming off in fine shavings.

>>96390677
Does this mean that an ivory colored ink used to water down and mix with an ivory colored paint can produce good bone tones? That also have high coverage? I have a lot of skeletons to paint.

>>96399069
Yeah well .. I . I .. I could do that. If I wanted to. I just don't want to.

>>96400205
>>96400280
The Plamo ladz use glass files. They're not universal for everything, but I've found them useful for some things that I struggled with before.

>>96400541
If I can find an ivory ink. Searches aren’t showing anything. I guess it is just white bones and a light brown wash over them for me so far.

>>96390686
>>96390708
Wanted to know if there's any alternatives to Knight Questor flesh, but these are down now

>>96400373
Try getting a piece of wood and cutting it with a blade a good 10 to 20 times. Dull the blade so it wont gouge the plastic as much but still has a straight edge for scraping. Too sharp a blade likes to slip and slide sometimes.

>>96400628
Pick your poison

>>96400655
Nice, thank you. I have no way of getting TTC paints where I live, so maybe Bugman's Glow could do in a pinch

>>96400589
I just purchased a set of GW files. Yeah, overpriced, but people seem to like them and they're not too aggressive
>>96400653
That's a good point. I'll try that tomorrow

>>96400655
>catachan flesh
Funny, but I don't remember them being painted that way.

>>96400655
>bard skin, paladin flesh, druid flesh
When they said "character class" I didn't realize they meant "class" in the quite that way

>>96401104
Cringe dude, St. Floyd died for your sins.

I was gonna work on something else, but that was boring, so I've decided to just try and wing it. I realize the stippling on the shoulder is too much, I wanted it to add texture but it's too much when close up. The flat blue-black areas are gonna be actually shiny metal and the trim is gonna be gold or bronze, something like that.

>>96398290
Here
https://litter.catbox.moe/nc8i2ecf5vogr5t4.pdf

>>96401120
The biggest redpill on the topic is the entire paragraph on wikipedia about how he was literally a saint.

>>96401598
The stippling looks nice, just a little low res. Like the damage on the yellow stripes, very believable.

>>96401904
I think the biggest one is that he just swallowed his drugs so he wouldn't get caught and overdosed. They threw the cop under the buss, to appease the rioters.

Posting the ork trukk that i just finished. What should i call it?

>>96402017
From the other side.

>>96402017
Beat da Poop

>>96401904
The biggest eye-operner is how people think it is perfectly okay to murder a man on the street if he's not a great person. They treat the fact that he was a criminal/addict as a revelation of hypocrisy, when any reasonable person knows it's never justified to murder another human being without due process unless they are a ceo of a multi-billion dollar company.

>>96402017
>>96402022
I'm not very creative with names but it does look very cool!
>>96400378
Simple, but clean. I like him.
>>96399348
>>96399069
Man seeing people paint something like this is both inspiring and depressing...
>>96397887
Other anons pretty much have said it already but just pass it off as heavy weathering and it's all good.
>>96397511
Looks nice so far!
>>96395392
I really like the color you used for shading the skin, adds a lot of visual interest.

>>96402017
stmp.sqsh.fltn.9000

>>96402017
>>96402022
Squigcheiza

Can I glue two pieces of XPS foam together after I top coated them or does that prevent the hobby glue from working?

>>96402238
You'd be gluing top coat to topcoat, which wouldn't be a particularly strong bond (compared to gluing raw foam to foam), but I don't see why it should inhibit the glue from sticking at all.

>>96402017
>>96402022
Da Fun Bus!

I am making some objective markers, still need to weather them as they look way too clean.

>>96402248
These are strategic points from DoW aren't they? Very cool

>>96402017
>>96402022
The GIs named their M2/M3s "Purple Heart Boxes", apparently. If it were purple we wouldn't see it though...

>>96402252
Yeah, they're a bit more chonky and smaller than other, more accurate versions i've seen on the internet, but they are easier to store and transport and they look pretty nice on the table.
I wanna print some flags for capturing them next.

>>96402243
>but I don't see why it should inhibit the glue from sticking at all.
I'm new to all of this and I heard that there are some glues than can melt foam so I thought maybe top coat + glue could also end up badly.

>>96402414
Generally, the only glues you need to worry about melting unprotected foam are cyanoacrylate super glues or the particularly smelly general purpose adhesives.

>>96402414
always test whatever paint or glue you are using on a scrap piece of whatever foams you are have, however pva glue (aka white glue, elmers glue, wood glue) and water based paints are always fine

spraycans can melt your foam too

Uthmog Elvenbane aka Harry the Hammer (Citadel SS1b), from the cover of WHFB 1E. I bought him in 1983 and just got around to him recently. Not a great job, but better than leaving him unpainted for another 42 years...

>>96402803
Just realized I missed his brass knuckles. I'll get them this weekend. :)

Anyone have tips on care of Windsor and Newton Series 7 brushes? They're awesome but seem to be pretty delicate. Thanks!

>>96402816
the usual, never let paint get into the metal, be careful with washes, don't let paint dry too much on the brush rinse it often while in use, clean it with mild soap (brush specific or not) after a session, store it flat when wet

>>96402017
Da Kopps

>>96400378
Nice
That's my favorite termi model

Im at a loss where to go from here. He looks pretty good, but I feel like he needs some more of something. Should I break out the enamels to make the open muscles look more enflamed and painful? Punch in the shadows more to make it darker? I feel like the arms on the right look kind of boring, but I dont know what to do in order to change that.

You will not inhibit my glue from sticking.

>>96400655
Btw, anyone have this but just with the AK paints?

Do you guys use varnish after painting miniatures?
So far I've never done it, and I've never had the case of painting getting ruined, but I wonder whether I was just lucky or what.
Wouldn't varnish affect the final result in the first place?

>>96403093
>Wouldn't varnish affect the final result in the first place?
of course, and sometimes it's the intended outcome
i do like matt finishes on anything non metal

>>96403093
I varnish metal models

>>96403093

unless you're doing some kind of pro competition paintjob you should generally make a habit of varnishing your minis if you want to keep your paint jobs safe. all varnishes will affect the appearance of the mini by their very nature (pure/gloss varnish will make it look wet/shiny, Matt contains particles that will dull the sheen of any sheeny paints and can create a frosting effect when applied too heavily).

Gloss will provide the best protection, so typically you'll want to do a layer of gloss, followed by a layer of satin or Matt

I just want to voice out my frustration over having to build primitive casting box for experiments with mold making instead of using some cheap plastic cup or similar material because I cannot buy plastic cups or spoons and such anymore.

I just hope it will work and I didn't just waste material.

tried a couple of different inkjobs on my other edgybois

>>96403153
Does not using it really ruin your paint job though? Assuming you are not playing with apes that throw them around and whose hands are dirty as fuck.

>>96403204
yes

>>96403204

you're talking about microscopic layers of fragile paint sitting on potentially harsh and abrasive materials. Metal models are notorious for basically chipping paint off of themselves.

got a krieg killteam on the way, but honestly, I really prefer the FW masks, without the weird nose rivet, any recommendations on how I can modify these korps boys? I was thinking just file the rivet section off and paint it like it's a gas mask all the way to the nozzle, but the actual shape of the mask is just different now, I'm not sure just erasing the nose-piece will have the same effect.

>>96403204
Let's not forget how normal sunlight slowly damage paint layer and change shades. Even normal painters varnish their works, you should too.

>>96402933
The base purple is too light and unsaturated, which doesn’t make it pop as much as it should. You can’t really fix this at this stage. Maybe do some orange highlights on the horns and weapons and call it quits.

>>96403161
I like them in order, left least, right most.

>>96402803
This is the mini that started the whole space marine sillouette thing, isn’t it?

I'm finally getting some Tyrant Guards to escort this guy, along with a Carnifex brood to make OOE. I can make two 'fexes, so what's a good setup for the second? Dakka?

>>96402276
So that's where my shipment from china is...
what the hell, anon?

>>96403365
>the whole space marine sillouette thing
The what?

>>96403358
Too light? As in, I used too many glazes and got too far from my midtone? These are the colors I used for the carapace. I used the turquoise/paynes grey for my shadows and underneath the plates and built up the purple and violets from there

>>96403420
>WHO'S THAT CHAPTER!?
>IT'S PIKAFISTS!
>IT'S THE ULTRAMARINES!!
>FUUUUCK!!

>>96403435
You know what it's time for?
Yeah that's right. Single pigment violet filters.

>>96403373
You buy another carnifex kit so you can have OOE and 2 gunfexes

>>96403438
Now that's an old meme.

>>96403448
I've got a couple of oils i could use, I suppose. I feel like the dioxane purple might be the nest bet.

>>96403473
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=48Dp5QkNc08&ab_channel=Jojojojojo
this video is 11 years old, and I'm not even sure it's the real upload

>>96403435
I like the army painter warpaints line for how they perform but they're almost universally a couple of steps lighter and less saturated than I'd want. It feels like they assume everyone is going to be drowning their models in a heavily tinting wash afterwards. Unsurprising that the John Blanche boxes were full of extra dark tones for their existing triads and a few super poppy colours.

>>96402933
This will sound cliche as fuck but he needs more contrast, at least judging by this picture. The highlights on scales are barely visible. Your gradients are nice but the colors are pretty close to one another so they don't really create much interest. Same goes for his body, it needs brighter highlights and maybe a couple edge highlights to make some details pop. This paintjob is very competent but also very boring. Sorry if I'm being too frank but I feel like you have the skill to make him look a lot better so I'm just throwing ideas your way.

>>96403552
I remember it being already around 2009.

>>96403565
jesus, this shit's potentially been around seince before michael jackson died.

>>96403435
>I used too many glazes and got too far from my midtone
No. I can tell the effect of the glazes and highlights applied on the mini, they were executed properly. The problem is the base color, presumably terrestrial titan from what you’ve described. It makes everything look drab due to its lack of saturation. Too high on the greyscale. I use pro acrylic royal purple (they are all on my pile of shame) but there are other purples around that would not have this issue for leviathan nids.

How do you guys decide when you think a model is 'finished'?

>>96403485
The only thing that could maybe make a difference at this point is inks. But I do t think it’s worth it risking it.
I wouldn’t mess with the muscles, they look fine the way they are.

>>96403485
I am thinking along the lines of a dioxazine purple, but I don't know how oils work when it comes to thin glazes and filters, I don't know if they would just turn into panel liners.

>>96403676
Dioxizine purple is transparent and stains like a motherfucker. It will stain everything below it and will shift all colors that you put on top towards it. A little bit is all you need for a powerful filter and it can be mostly wiped away while still leaving a strong tint. I'd actually try it on a quick test model first, just some airbrush layers of the main colors and highlight together so you can see exactly how the staining will shake out. If OOP wanted an oil wash color for a pinwash I would think something like indigo would go lovely with the purple, have a dark saturated pinwash to force that midtone brighter but would need highlight touches once dry to balance out again.

Should I buy a wet palette or follow one of those videos where they make their own?

>>96403153
>>96403204
Just use a varnish with the same finish as the paint used (for instance, satin with citadel paints) and it shouldn't make any difference visually speaking.

>>96403758
>wet a paper towel
>put some plastic wrap over it
>put the whole thing in a margarine lid

rate this lifehack I just spat out of my frontal lobe

>>96403153
>Gloss will provide the best protection
Urban legend.

>>96403782
Contempt will be their varnish

Okay, I need some advice - I want to try and make mold for these small parts you see here. They have connection holes at both ends. Would it make more sense to cast them like on variant A (both holes free) or variant B (one hole plugged with support beam)? Mold material would be GSW Fleximold which is supposed to behave like silicone.

>>96403782
It's not urban legend, varnishes used to have this effect in past where mating agent was actually making them less durable. Now it's thing of the past but collective consensus stays the same.

>>96403365
I think so. In 1983 GW had just started bulking up the physique in their chaos warrior models and switching out heads and shields to maximize combinations. It seems to have been a natural progression from there.

>>96403782
I hate this wives tale shit because it plants conclusions in people's heads that they then build off of that end up being double wrong, like I've seen people say they gloss varnish first and then do a matte varnish so they get the protection of the gloss but the nice matte finish.
Gloss varnish "protects" better, because it has a smoother surface that's less likely to rub off because it can't grip whatever is rubbing against it, it's purely surface finish, as soon as you spray matte over top you're just left with a thick coat of 'matte' varnish that you could have done by just spraying 2 coats of matte.

>>96403789
If the shape on both ends is important, like it needs to fit a ball joint or something, then something like A because B would just ruin the fit on that end. But because of the smoothness of the shape, I would probably put some vent holes like, 1 sticking out at the highest point of the end on each.
If that end isn't important or it's just flat, then I'd go with B.

>>96403797
>Now it's thing of the past
No.
>apply only ultramatte varnish
>paint scrapes off of mini with fingernail
vs.
>apply ultragloss spray to mini
>cannot scratch varnish or paint with fingernail

Even if both varnishes have the same chemical cbonding properties, the smooth non-porous shell of the gloss will protect better than the highly stippled/porous surface of the matte, it's the physics of friction, it's harder for potentially damaging contact to "bite" into the gloss.

>>96403877
Well, shape both is and is not important. It is because I need both ends due to how thin their walls are and I already had damaged copies when I tried to drill them on my own when I tried making blue stuff mold/green stuff copies. Is not because it is supposed to just connect 2.5mm and 3mm rod. But thanks.

>>96403789
I've done this to recast the lower jaw and dorsal spines for an Imperial Dragon I posted recently, but the final materials were acrylic.

For that, you can either use

1) a silicone to acrylic technique https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dTFUrBgxkro or

2) Hot water mold (Japanese, faster) - search Polaris Poodle Eco-Friendly on Amazon (4chan doesn't let me post a direct link).

Not sure if either of these will be helpful. I have much less experience with option 2 (just got it recently).

Good luck!

>>96403789
Same poster as above - if you use option 2 (hot water gel method) you MAY be able to just mold the pieces without supports. And if it doesn't work it will only wastea bout an hour of your time (vs silicone>final material which takes like 2 days and then you sometimes get a partial).

Whatever you use, please post results since I have a few models that also need replacement molded parts and I'm always looking for faster and more accurate techniques.

>>96404034
>>96403992
Method 2 is the same as Blue Stuff, which is just fancy local name for same material. What you linked works just the same. I had acceptable results with using it to make copies for my plastic models but there are limitations, especially to how it replicate deep holes like these connection ones. A lot of people here suggested me to try silicone + poured resin instead and that's why I wanted to test out GSW "Fleximold" which, according to what they say on their one shop and promo video, should behave like reusable silicone (on promo video they used wax and UV resin for filling it with shop info on how to NOT use water-based acrylic resins or similar materials due to how it's supposed to be at least partially water permeable). I don't see videos on YT about it hence my desire to test it out, especially since I already have it.

Two part mold making with BS or equivalent required a lot of trial and errors but ended up okay. But I still have serious problems with copies made out of Milliput/Green Stuff mix turning out too big or otherwise deformed or with two halves failing to connect to each other. I don't know why exactly this happens but some WIP posters suggested switch to poured materials instead and that necessary single part mold instead of two part (or I just don't know how to properly pour stuff into two part mold.

>>96403896
why are you taking a nail to your minis to intentionally scratch them?

>*furious drumroll* Here come the lanks! All hands man the rampart! Sight the cannons! Give these swines a halfling hello!

This took about a single leafbuck in materials outside of the figures and roughly 45 minutes of active work time for a pretty solid chunk of table real estate (100mm) Scratch built with shit from the dollar store. I had bought these wooden dowels years ago when I got back into the hobby, initially with Games Workshop. I wanted to get into warhammer fantasy empire, but at the time it was still shelved. The plan was to build a fort out of them but at the time I was so new I didn't know how to go about it and it was a disaster and I threw these dowels into a box and didn't look at them again until yesterday. I just used a standard pencil to sharpen the ends.

On the next I'll probably shave the sides of the dowels down to make them look less perfectly rounded, give them a more natural feel. This was kind of a proof of concept.

Anyways I'll be drawing up an effort post tutorial of how I did it all and will post it in a few days. Buckley the rehabilitated retarded horse and his busted ass cart will be posted then as well. For those who recall that post from the other day.

>>96403896
That has more to do with how smooth the surface is and the friction therein, you can just catch material under your finger easier with ultramatte. Gloss and high gloss varnishes create an extremely smooth surface.

On that note I find polyurethane matte or ultra matte doesn't even come off under a fingernail unless your digging it in there like a spade.

De odda side mon

>travis and taylor announced their engagement
Not mini painting related, but its all I've heard about this morning so I wanted to make sure everyone else also knows.

>>96404216
>test mini
Why are you not subjecting your materials to the scientific method?

>>96404192

Thanks, and understood. The issues I have had with silicone with poured resin sound similar to yours - the two-part mold introduces errors and in addition if you are trying the technique without a vacuum chamber it tends to be prone to bubbles which can ruin the final result.

Maybe GSW Fleximold will be better than silicone? And maybe you have a buddy in art school that has access to a vacuum chamber (although kind of a long shot)?

>>96404266
>implying i don't have a series of tests and standards that only make sense to me

>>96404263
I don't know who those people are.

>>96404234
so you're just quibbling over the dictionary definition of "toughness" and acknowledge that gloss is more resistant to damage.

>>96404263
I have no clue who these people are but I'm pretty sure it has nothing to do with miniature painting

>add a tiny amount of water to black paint
>they turn into unusuable watery trash
Sigh

>>96403558
No it is boring I agree. That's why I was seeking out next steps from people that havent been staring at it for hours.

>>96404221
>>96404249
Nice. I like wood walls.
Heres my own.

Initial shading and first round of drybrushed highlights done. I like to go in on terrain pieces like buildings and use multiple brown tones and even greyish green, beiges etc in different spots to create a more visually interesting look and natural appearance to the weathering. Buildings and vehicles don't weather the same all around. Certain parts like corners and parts lower to the ground weather and decay much faster than others. Probably try to pull the shading on the palisade spikes back a touch though. I used out of the bottle skeleton horde on the stripped tips. Then I diluted some gore grunta fur for the darker parts of the wood. Probably should have diluted the Skelly horde too.

Then I just hit it with a rough drybrush again. To get the contrast paint to run well I gave it a heavy coat of polyurethane varnish last night to seal it.

Another advantage to the thicker polyurethane by Vallejo other than the large available volume and fairly cheap price compared to citadel is that you can use it to seal MDF or any other wood with a solid coat or two. You can also use pva glue, but I find the Vallejo stuff is cheap and plenty enough with a better finish and stronger protection than PVA so I just use it for sealing.

Is it worth to buy washes/shade paints or is it a waste of money when you can dilute regular paint with water

>>96404996
Real pro tip is to get glaze medium and contrast medium. Take your existing acrylic paints and let you make easy glazes and contrasts out of them yourself. This way your glazes and contrast paint are an exact match to your acrylic paint (since they're the same paint) so you can color match and fix mistakes easily.

>>96404996
It's kind of a waste of money, but not entirely.
washes aren't just paints thinned with water. Glazes you can more or less do by water thinning because the paint should stay where you put it because there shouldn't be much liquid on the brush. But washes are combinations of surfactants and retarders (as well as likely some thinning or being more dilute in the base medium to begin with).
If you have some of these chemicals or substitutes like dish soap, etc, you can get all these effects, but you're mixing theme very time and it's not quite as simple as just thinning with water. A lot of the time you're paying for convenience and consistency.
You could get by with a single set of 12 or 16 single pigment paints and some thinners and surfactants but you don't because it's easier to have Caliban Green or whatever just in the bottle ready to go and when you run out you buy another bottle of exactly the same stuff.

>>96404996
Yes its worth it. At least get the basics like brown and black.

what's the best for stripping down gw plastic minis with acrylic paint? Got a bunch of orks someone else painted badly and want to redo them all

>>96405118
The best way if they aren't totally gunked up with paint is to just prime them and paint over them. Every other option is either messy and tedious, or risks damaging the plastic worse than if you had just primed over them. Stripping minis unless they are really important individually (or metal, because metal is easy af to strip) is a meme.

>>96405118
ipa and elbow grease

>>96405143
>>96405150
thanks, I'll do ipa for the really fucked up ones and test out a few of the other ones with just a prime and repaint

>>96405118
LA's totally awesome straight from the bottle will eat through the paint in a day or so.

>>96405118
IF you do this (best option, but I still don't don't recommend it) >>96405150
just fyi to what this workflow is like. It's not like acetone and metal minis where you soak it for 2 minutes and it all just peels off.
>Soak mini in ipa for 5 minutes and scrub with toothbrush, frequently rinse brush in cup of ipa
>it'll look like shit and like you've just smeared the paint all over the model (you have) put back in ipa for another 5 minutes
>repeat steps 1 and 2 until model is stripped to your satisfaction

IPA really just softens the paint, it doesn't melt or dissolve it, so you then have to really work the toothbrush to get the acrylic sludge off the model. But stronger chemicals might dissolve or melt the paint better, but they'll also soften your model.

>>96405150
Yep, isopropanol and a soft toothbrush, and a bit of patience.

Just be careful not to damage the mini, and make sure you know how to pin in case you do.

>>96405150
one quick question does the % make much of a difference?
>>96405186
does LA TA damage the minis or soften them at all?

>>96405714
careful, most mini painting places won't appreciate this diorama of the southern border.

anyone have the guide for how to best use open camera for minis?

Getting back to previous question about making molds - while I'm still going to try out that Fleximold, probably tomorrow, I wonder about what could be done to fix problem with casting from Blue Stuff mold. When I place original piece inside it, it looks like that mold itself is okay (I still occasionally get bubbles, despite removing water after heating phase, no idea why) but as if Milliput is pushing it instead. Then again, if I place just enough material to fill the mold, plus small piece on top to let them connect, they usually don't - sometimes falling to two halves after taking off, sometimes breaking in two when I drill them or otherwise treat with some force. Probably using some more "liquid" material would help but then again, with BS I can only make two piece molds (fucking autocorrect keep changing it to "moulds") and any liquid would either flow out or leak while I press the two halves (and cold BS is quite resistant to cutting or drilling, at least mine).

Just trying to find solution.

How do anons store their hobby supplies?
I waste half my time trying to find paints.

>>96405982
I got one of these from Plydolex for Christmas a couple years ago and it was great for keeping shit organized. And it lets me clutter even more shit on the desk since I don't have desk drawers.

>>96404996
Time or money, pay with one or the other.

>>96405982
This hanging rack thingy with paints sorted by color because I like having some kind of logic/order to things. I actually developed enough muscle memory so that I can usually pick the paint I want without looking at the rack lol

>>96405982
I have nice paint racks with no paint on them and bottles of paint taking up all the space on my desk where I normally need to put my elbows.

>>96404276
Mouth-feel and taste of the varnish is inconsequential

>>96405676
>does LA TA damage the minis or soften them at all?
Not at all. I've had some gobbos soaking for about 2 months because I've been lazy, no softening. You can use some coffee filters to filter out the paint particles and keep reusing it until it stinks, recommend using glass jars since some types of plastic containers will get soft and break open (ask how I know lol).

>>96405676
>one quick question does the % make much of a difference?
the more the better, get at least 90+, if you have a lower one already try it, it won't hurt

>>96406272
>>96406401
Thanks a million everyone!

>>96404996
flow improver is vital for washes or contrast paints to work properly, water alone doesn't work