Thread 96523001

Work in Progress "Ha-Ha! Time for Piracy!" Edition

>Full-on /WIP/ OP Links Pastebin
https://pastebin.com/BE42AEcD

>WIP Tutorial Images Mega
https://mega.nz/#F!TvQFCaLb!w8WZKCcOsTRasxrI0JWezw

>Saint Duncan's "Six Things I Wish I Knew When I Started Painting"
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ufP8ka3KGno

>Saint Duncan also explains thinning your paints
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wxWgsqSf74s

>Paint thinning 102
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sBDVPoNXyVI

>4 EASY Chipping Tricks For Beginners
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ku4comhKHJM

>Decal Like a Pro
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SYKLiEW7p9c

>How to Edge Highlight
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KoRbYuAfbEk

>How to use contrast style paints
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IhholrozptI

>How to Paint with Tremors
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oqp76vAJu9g

>Airbrush Priming and Thinning
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jkntrSBvXxE
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IGjBQzoukFg
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=00JVUxABe44
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AEqT_R41JX8

>Who's Johnny, she'd say, and smile in her special way
https://1d6chan.miraheze.org/wiki/Johnny

>Previous Threads:
>>96491381
>>96464185
>>96431984
>>96406783

>>96523001 (OP)
Man the paintjob is fantastic but that old dudes smile is so unpleasant to look at for some reason

>>96523035
Yeah, it's kind of an ugly model.

>>96523035
>>96523170
I think that's the point, lads.

>>96523190
Nah, the kid is also off. Either way, doesn't make it any more pleasant to look at.

>>96523035
It's something about the slightly foetid and piss-soaked man's menace in his leer directed at the boy, one can almost imagine him leaning forward in a lecherous manner, his greasy stubble brushing the innocent angels cheek, the fumes of alcohol on his breath curling the boy's noise hairs, a bit of spittle wetting his neck as the grimey creep whispers into his ear "you can't play games with busts so this is off-topic for tg and belongs elsewhere, good as it may be"

Reposting since last thread just got nuked.

>>96523254
>spoiler
>still trying this shit
lmao

>>96523254
>you can't play games with busts so this is off-topic for tg and belongs elsewhere, good as it may be
What do you mean? I use a bust of Hillary Clinton as my greater demon of Tzeentch.

Is there a good way to model wispy smoke/mist on a model? I'd like to try something where the model had smoke pouring out of its armor. Like the heavier than air smoke that Wolnir has in Dark Souls

Odd question but - if I can't find ultrasonic cleaner at hobby shops, what else could I use to shake (reusable thermo material) mold while it settle down to get rid of bubbles?

>>96523524
GW tries a lot, especially with the Nighthaunt range. Dunno if I think it works all that well though.

>>96523533
Buy one online.

>>96523035
Because he's a deceitful pirate, using the kid to get to the Treasure Island (that's the plot of the novel).
>>96523254
His look is directed at the island they are looking at.

>>96522329
>Once again I have to spit on normalfags because this is clearly what they are after.
all most ppl want is selfies for social media so the processing has all the instagram smudge filters baked in for that

>the absolute state of society

>>96523519
>Lord of Change mentioned
gonna jump on this chance to repost my guy

>>96523982
Very nice Hillary, you really captured her conniving snarl.

Slowly but steady getting there

This is attempt #5 on this practice sword of trying to do the gradient technique sorta style of power sword. I feel like it’d look better if there wasn’t 4 layers of other paint under this. Does anyone have tips or tricks for this style of power weapon painting? Or should I just slap green contrast paint and edge highlight my bladed and call it a day?

Asking again if anyone can recommend a good airbrush in the 100€ range. I do have the compressor already so it's only the airbrush that I need.
I already have a bit of experience for one, just upgrading to my own model after playing with a friend's one for a while, it's very fun and a big part of my process now so I want one.

>>96524347
AK Basic Line or equivalent is all you need.

>>96523982
do you have any of the previous models?

>>96524347
>MR.HOBBY PS289 Procon Boy WA, Double Action Platinum 0.3 Ver.2

>>96524409
As in previous LoC sculpts? I don't, unfortunately. I might hunt for them at some point though.

>>96524318
Biggest problem is your bright parts aren't nearly bright enough. It actually gets easier to have a convincing blend if you're going from near black to near white over a short distance. Block in your extreme shadow and extreme highlight spots first then bridge the gap. Lots of layers and fussing with paint while it's still wet is pretty normal.

>>96524429
they are pricey now but they still very good

>>96524456
I loved this one as a kid but couldn't afford it back then.

>>96524464
I have a buddy trying to hunt down an affordable metal blood thirster

>>96524347
>Asking again if anyone can recommend a good airbrush in the 100€ range
Fengda BD-180. It's what Nightshift uses.

>>96524318
I think I know what you are attempting, but you are failing completely.
Your gradient needs to go from an off black or a very dark colour, towards a saturated mid tone, after which it goes into a very bright colour, probably yellow. You need something like 12 gradient layers to pull it off from the look of things.
After the gradients you should do a clean edge highlight with an off white.
But if you want an easy way out, use fluorescent paints.
Paint in white. Then thin the paint 1/2 with water and add thin layers until it covers completely. It's going to stand out.

>>96524464
same same
that's warhammer in metal form
i always loved that model since i saw it in the old painting (?) guide

I’m getting into wargaming.

How are Ashland fine stone granules for sand? They’re available as decorative sand from an art store near me and I don’t know any other place of getting sand for free in my local area.
You can see them being used in this video: https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=ceD_g9bn2CM&pp=ygUWU2FuZCBiYXNpbmcgbWluaWF0dXJlcw%3D%3D

Sorry about using mobile my pc is having troubles.

>>96524479
this?
>https://es.wallapop.com/item/devorador-de-almas-khorne-warhammer-fantasy-815548375

>>96523035
>>96523170
>>96523190
>>96523694
https://youtu.be/ISDQdh7V5mw

Working on some dog dudes.
I'm surprised on how quickly it's going. Not too many scattered details and a lot of leather that can be painted roughly.
I still have a bunch of stuff for each material, but I'm not tired of it yet

>>96524521
>You need something like 12 gradient layers
lol

>>96524662
I mean I guess you could wet blend instead but if we're talking about glazing I'd say he's not far off the mark for getting a smooth transition.

>>96524583
>https://es.wallapop.com/item/devorador-de-almas-khorne-warhammer-fantasy-815548375
We're Americans
yaay tariffs

>>96524318
You definitely need to block in the start and end colour. It was dark green and white for my model, then I added two additional green tones between.
I actually just searched YouTube for random tutorials for the actual layering tecniques.

The fucked-up texture will definitely screw you when you try to do blending with thin layers.
I can see that you are getting there, but you need the two extreme colours and you need more very thin layers to make the transitions disappear.

>>96524698
>We're Americans
migrate

>>96524318
I'm sorry for shilling a youtuber but Juan Hidalgo's video on necron blades is pretty good for understanding how to glaze and blend. I pretty much followed it when painting staves of these guys

>>96524464
I got all the greater demons from that era. They're cute, really small though.

>>96524866
I'm kinda jelly not gonna lie

slopping out some basecoats
boy this thing is heavy

Who has an Agrellan Bandland like texture paint in a big pot?
Preferably in the US

Good news and bad news. The good news is I painted for about 4 hours today.
The bad news is that it amounted to basically nothing because I spent most of it glazing up a power sword that I then stripped because I hated how it was coming out. The transition was shit and I kept getting tide marks. So it may as well be like I didn't paint all.

>>96524866
>really small though.
the are meant to play with them, not to be ridiculous centerpieces like today

>>96525094
practice is practice

>>96525131
True, but they look a little weak compared to current models. They also weight a lot, especially the great unclean one.

>>96524721
So pretty much the tutorial i followed was
>paint entire sword dark tone (in my case caliban green)
>then glaze on in thin layers mid tone from the middle of the blade up to the tip and down to the base (warpstone glow)
>then finally glaze in the brightest color at the tip and base (moot green)
I’ll try blocking in the next time, will look up more tutorials because the one I was going off of is a quick youtube short for a blue blade, I really wonder if green is just trickier to get good gradients with?
>>96524755
I was going to actually try Juan’s dry brushing power sword technique next, seems like he gets a similar gradient effect with a lot less hassle. Just wanted to try my hand at glazing first.

any pointers on how to paint a thin snow layero on top of this lad? shoud I do small white dots on top until it looks ok?

I just did a direct comparison between Rakarth Flesh and Griffon Claw. They're pretty close, but Griffon Claw is pretty noticeably darker. I expected a copycat to get closer.

>>96525094
you have way too much paint on your brush if your glazes are getting tide marks. you're supposed to be lightly staining the surface, it should dry almost immediately.

not sure which youtuber is promoting glazing for power swords, why not just layer and blend like a normal person?

>>96525054
that just looks like standard drywall filler painted brown.

>>96523694
>using the kid to get to the Treasure Island
Just a euphemism for butt sex.
>The starfish, err.. x, marks the spot.

>>96525367
I haven't done much glazing, only on one other sword. Still getting the hang of it though. Duncan does it in his Blood Angel bladeguard video.

>>96523035
>for some reason
What do you mean for some reason? He’s missing teeth. It’s half snarl half smile. He’s Long John Silver. An alcoholic double crossing pirate.

>>96523001 (OP)
Thread theme : https://youtu.be/YvUbbYX9BMs?si=F0GJxwSegMq8XkXX

>>96523035
>You see, some men feared Pew, and some feared Flint, but Flint feared me.

When seeing videos about wet palettes I see the paint starts to kind of break down like this when they add water to thin it out, but in my case it still behaves like on a regular dry palette. Is it the type of paint or paper? Do I need/want the paint to break down like that?

>>96525054
AK does decent size texture tubs

>>96521434
And finished. Really enjoy working on each marine separately, it lets me focus my efforts on the bits that make them unique.

>>96525326
You might consider applying a little texture to him. Accumulated snow noticably builds up over whatever it's resting on, even in small amounts. You could lay down some very translucent white over places the snow is likely to accumulate then dot around more similarly thinned white to build up some mottling and eventually solid shapes within those "zones". As a side note he's looking pretty decent so far.

I want to paint my deathwatch in a metallic black, i was thinking black primer, airbrush iron warriors, highlight with a brighter silver and then airbrush black legion contrast. Now im unsure if it wouldnt be smarter to apply the contrast paint with a normal brush. Anyone have experience with contrasts over metallic paints?

>>96524578
Update:
Saw Duncan Rhodes' video on basing sand and he mentions sand from a garden centre. I'm gonna go check out one near me and hope for the best.

whats the point of drybrush texture palette?

>>96526639
Seems like it's for testing if you left the right amount of paint on the brush for drybrushing?

>>96526427
Probably the paper, what do you use?

>>96526596
you can buy black metallics and save some work.

>>96523255
Coming along nicely, just gonna repeat myself that I like this sculpt a lot.
>>96524640
Nice and clean so far.
>>96525018
>it's the size of that rotating thingy
Now that's a big boi
>>96525326
Can't help you with the snow since I've never painted anything like that but I like that yellow+cream
>>96526510
Very cool, the skeleton motiff looks really interesting. If I had to point something out you could've made flames a bit brighter towards the bottom.

>>96527659
forgot Rin, whoops

>>96526596
Contrast-type paints over metallics give a great sort of 'candied' effect, especially if you apply them over a gradient built from different shades of silvers. I highly recommend grabbing some of the vallejo "Metal Color" paints for this. Depending on the color you might have to thin the contrast, I've noticed black templar specifically ending up more opaque than the other colors I've used, it isn't necessarily a bad effect but it might not be the look you're going for.

>>96526510
looks very cool, and the paintjob is crisp. Great stuff, anon.

>>96527659
>>96527940
Thanks anons.

My buddy printed too many terminators by accident, now we both have too many terminators

>>96527984
>too many terminators
No such thing.

>>96527984
termies are always great, no matter the flavor

>>96527984
>Too many terminators
Your bloodline is weak

>>96526596
>Anyone have experience with contrasts over metallic paints?
I do, I wouldn't use black legion to achieve the effect you're looking for unless you thin it out until you achieve a translucence that allows for the metallic undercoat to subtly show through. BL has a really nice coverage so it will show very little of the undercoat beneath unless it's a particularly bright or saturated colour.

Gw black templar is not as covering and might be a better choice as long as you brush it on nicely and don't do a thick coat. It does have a somewhat greenish hue to it, instead of the warm black BL has.
I wouldn't use an airbrush in either case, you want some control over the brush strokes to leave a thinner coat on the prominent areas and really let the metallic basecoat show through. A careful metallic drybrush afterwards can sell the effect even more.

>>96525326
I feel like there aren't many areas where snow would stay on, I assume he isn't doing a living statue performance and the base suggests he's not experiencing a heavy blizzard, so not a lot of sense for snow to accumulate on him except for the boots.

>>96527984
>>96527991
Fully agree. Cool termies.
I'm itching to paint more terminators but I'm waiting for GW to release updated assault ones, I'm thinking either 11th ed box or past its release anyway

Finally finished Prince Vordhrai lads

>>96527984
mega blocks terminators

>you rapid ingress into an objective
>but ha! I sequence it so my objective control checks LAST so you don't actually control it in the shooting phase!
I love magic the warhammering

Working on skaven

>>96528100
Man, those tattered wings are amazing!

>>96528289
I've liked your rats so far and these are looking good too.

He paints SHADOWS on a 3D object. SHADOWS!

>>96529278
Back to gpg you fucking mongrel

>>96528518
Thanks anon. It's kind of hard to photo the bastard coz he's so big and detailed. Few more details here.
Tried to make the base unique with zombies coming from graves and shit.
There's also a dead ninja (from the old 80s WFB Nippon faction) on the base as a little Easter egg type thing.

....aaaand I forgot to crop because I'm a phoneposting faggot

>>96528100
>>96529392
>>96529406
Very cool! I especially like the colors you've used for the dragon, really drives home that it's undead.

I think i did decently so far

>>96529659
I mean it looks cool but it feels more like a modern military camo than something a fantasy knight would wear

>>96529902
is ww2 camo modern ?

>>96529924
Depends on the system you go by.

well it's getting somewhere

>>96528012
very based

>>96529659
This is a weird take on the green knight

>>96527984
>>96528012
>>96530226
nice, here are mine

>>96530294
I don't think I've used Terminators in a game after Second Edition. By the time I get down to the bottom of my army list, I'm already strapped for points and they never seemed to earn back what I spent on them. I've seriously considered doing it in 10th Edition, but just haven't played enough games of it so far.

Terminators were dead 'ard in Second Edition. For armour saves, they saved on a 3+, but you rolled *two* dice and added them *together*. This meant a Terminator could potentially survive a direct hit from a lascannon or other powerful weapon by rolling high enough on 2d6. Conversely, their firepower wasn't really all that great. Most of the squadboyz were really just standing around to see if the guy with the cyclone missile launcher or assault cannon could get some good hits in, and they didn't roll enough dice to kill much in melee (power fists only did one Wound) unless you equipped them with lightning claws.

Until GW gave them a 5+ invulnerable save in 3rd Edition (believe it or not, they *weren't* when that edition was originally published), they were supremely overpriced and ridiculously ineffective - especially if your opponent had a couple of models waving power swords around!

>>96527053
>>96527888
>>96528072
Thanks for the tips guys, i think black templar would be too bright for the look i want, might have to play around with some thinned down black legion. I’ve considered colored metallics but i really dont want to buy any new paints for this though

I use a ton of white paint (Vallejo Model Color) to desaturate and mix.
Cant I buy larger presentations of it or use Liquitex or can I only use the same presentation? Kinda tired of having to buy many little bottles of it.

Using just contrast or speedpaint makes the models too bright and cartoony. Should i try using a thin coat of nuln oil before applying speedpaints or contrast?

Possibly a bit of a long shot on this one, but does anyone happen to have the GW recipe for Palanites? I'll accept alternate paint manufacturers too, so long as it's gonna give a similar result.

Sorry for the stupid ask, but I have a hard time picking out colours from paintjobs, especially with there being so many brands nowadays.

Big thanks.

>>96524102
Nice one anon

>>96530527
you can get the citadel app, then search the model there, and it will give you a list of all paints needed. Then you can download the stahly's comparison tool and check if you can get the same paints from someone else.

Finished these guys up.

>>96524640
These guy are done, quick and easy.

>>96530565
The recipes in citadel app are not even close to box art paintjobs, just saying. You're better off checking the eavy archive

How to be consistent when mixing acrylics?

>>96530527
Here you go anon
https://eavy-archive.com/40k/necromunda/

>>96530749
>>96530770
You're a star

>>96525054
Go to artist store. Ask for Nepheline gel fine or Texture medium and mix it with fine sand. Both together probably cost less and offer more than miniature supply hobby products.

Kings, I desperately need your help in saving my terrain here. This is the first time in years I've painted anything and the first time making terrain. How do I save this ? Something is missing here, I refuse to obstruct everything with grass because I already had such a cool rock texture, but it looks so bland and unnatural. How do I salvage this ?

>>96530747
Good job anon, metallics came out well.

>>96531334
And these smaller ones. I learned a lot from doing this, but I'm not ready to just chalk it up as practice done and accepting they suck. I was considering maybe putting a brown wash somewhere in between the patches of flock but the last few times I tried earlier in the process it looked like shit and I painted over it to return to grey only.

>>96530767
write down your recipes

>>96531334
They look like mossy stones so you need something else on there to sell the scale/environment.

>>96526604
Update update:
Cheap 18kg bag of sand has arrived.
I'm very happy.
I've filled up a container and I'm set for life unless I drop the container and make a mess.
Would I be a hobby hero at the LGS if I offered to give free basing sand to people for free?

>>96531514
You would be hated by the store owner for undercutting his profits from overpriced basing materials.

>>96531536
Good point. Is it worth the risk of getting banned?

>>96531644
If you get banned for something as trivial as giving out free basing (which is actually a boost to your business, not the other way around), you shouldn't be going to such a gay shithole anyway, let alone spending money there.

>>96531652
I don't think anyone has tried giving out basing at the LGS, but the place seems friendly and reasonable enough.
Also I think I might be fine as the bread and butter of the store seems to be cards.

>>96531334
>>96531341
Needs some smaller rocks and vegetation like leaf litter or a few grass tufts. Also the fine grass scatter needs either a darker shade here and there (just use a dark brown wash) or sprinkle a lighter shade of scatter in the middles. It just needs some contrasting colors. You wou8ldn't need to do a lot, just a few smaller breakups of the blandness. Glue down a few stones of different sizes in a small group and glue some grass tufts here and there around them. Some brown wash along the edges of the grass scatter where it looks like shade would be good. Maybe some lightly scattered leaf litter for broken sticks and dried herbs. Don't crowd the top since that's likely where players will place the models.

>>96531334
>>96531341
>>96531352
If you have some bits left over from a kit use that to make it look interesting. A rusty sword and shield or broken spear even a skeleton.

>>96531845
Was trying to keep this one all natural so it could work for any time period/setting.
>>96531825
I think I'm gonna have to suck it up and use a brown wash in some spots and maybe add some dirt/gravel. Hope I don't ruin it, I should just accept that these are test pieces but I can't.

Also this is my first time with flocking or whatever this tiny sponge thing is, how do I seal this in best ? Just soak it all with watered down pva ?

>>96531902
>maybe add some dirt/gravel
Just don't over-do it and it'll look great. They already look decent you just need some dark/light spots for contrast.

>how do I seal this in best ? Just soak it all with watered down pva ?
That's what I do and it seems to work fine.

>this tiny sponge thing
If you have any colored sponge things, you can use them to make flower patches. That would work well to break up the monotony a bit.

>>96523519
>I use a bust of hashut worshipper as my greater demon of Tzeentch.
But why

Any recipes or guide to paint executioners? they are supposed to be blueish silver so i was wondering if a should search for a blue silver or painting some constrast medium blend over gunmetal

>>96528289
They look so good on squares.
>>96528100
Love the muted colors and the base is particularly awesome.
>>96530606
Bangin', just super crispy with the highlights, nice color transitions and color choices.

I can't believe there's no video tutorials on how to paint skulls with glowing eyes. All I can find is glowing eye lenses and shit, which is a bit different from painting a glow from a hollow socket.

>>96532488
I tried to do it once, it's not easy at all.

>>96532491
The only relevant thing I've found is this, which, while informative, is much less helpful than seeing someone do it.
https://richardgraycreations.com/how-to-paint-a-skeleton-with-glowing-eyes

>>96526510
Making a third lotd marine.

>>96532491
Paint them white, use Tesseract Glow?

Speed painting these little cunnies

Maybe its not warhammer but its my first paitied statue that i want to give to my friend as a gift

>>96533277
+ holy shit i hate paiting white

>>96533284
You got it pretty smooth tho. Cute Hornet, I need to check out Silksong soon.

>>96533277
Why not do some highlights on the cloth?

>>96532328
depends entirely on where your preferred shade can be found. there's a lot of variation in blue metallics, washes and (ugh) contrast paints.

>>96533342
im kinda afraid i will fuck it up and i need to gift it today (extra gift)

>>96533438
Yeah, don't do it. The original doesn't have highlights either.

Finally getting through my backlog of tzeentch cultists

The red doesn't quite go with the blue. Hoping a wash of nuln oil can save it.

>>96533277
>That background
This must be the work of an enemy Stand!

Me when look at anon pics

Any general advice for watercolor pencils?

>>96534410
We paint miniatures, not paper.

>>96534428
I use them for miniatures and not paper
AK even has a series of them for weathering

A question - if I want to paint some robot/SF miniatures like WH's Tau Battlesuits or Infinity TAGs but don't play games, just want to paint, what are my best and cheapest option? Inb4 - no, I don't have any friends with resin printers, nor separate room to setup resin printing operations.

>>96534567
Most likely recasters, but not sure how the market is right now
All the Russian ones are probably dead
So you should look into Chinese ones

>>96534567
Just buy whichever you like.

Working on this kitbashed Miraculist to serve as my Terminator Squad's teleporter homer.
I'll freehand some mural painting on the empty pannel behind her head.
Instead of using some boring machine, my Black Templars use a burning psyker that has a homer strapped to her.

Does anyone know a good recipe for Terracotta? i primed this guy in wraith bone and tried gorthor contrast like everyone recommends and it looked so tea stainy that i stripped it and reprimed it for a regular paintjob instead.

I've got some P3 Bloodstone that might fit but looking for any advice since its a matieral i've not tried to replicate with paint before.

>>96534567
>robot/SF miniatures
How do you feel about Battletech?

>>96535064
I actually really like BT designs but aren't their minis quite expensive?

>>96535439
IWM minis might be a bit costly, but the modern CGL forcepacks are something like 6 bucks a mini.

>>96535439
No, they're quite cheaped compared to 40k, though the current plastic line has a terrible production process which leaves the makes all looking slightly melty/puffy with moldlines in terrible places and even mold alignment issues.

>>96535452
>US based store

Crap. I'm from Europe.

>>96535456
Found some at local store, seems slightly cheaper than WH indeed (4 mechs for equivalent of 29€). But that mention of mold alignment issues and quality made me worried.

>>96535500
The way to get nice sharply detailed mech models at the moment is 3d printing, the company behind the online game encourage people to 3d print their game models and that along with independent sculpts means 3d printing has a far larger selection of mechs and variants.

>Plastic Battletech minis
The details are soft as sand and generally require a real fancy paintjob to make them shine. Personally I would say avoid. They're fine as game pieces, but as miniatures, the quality blows.

>>96535510
This can be true if you've got a nice printer dialed in, but I think the CGL plastics are pretty nice. All the models I've painted here are CGL except for the one third from the right.

If you have a printer by all means go for it; there are a lot of cool mechs that don't have plastic minis yet and some mechs that have a lot more modern designs than the IWM ones (some of them never even got minis).

>>96535510
But like I mentioned, I don't have printer, nobody I know have printer and when I checked local printing services, they all assume you want to print few hundreds pieces instead.

>>96526984
I am using picrel. I guess I could try parchment paper instead.

>>96534733
solid base coat of a desaturated orange brown, reddish brown wash (I like army painter's dark skin shade), mix in some off-white/ivory for highlights/chips and wear

>>96535618
Well, they're probably using something with some sort of wax I guess. At long as your paint doesn't dry up, you're good.

>>96531514
What's the safest way to bake sand so that the grains are dry and loose? I finally opened the bag and noticed that it was a little moist and the grains clump together.

I've seen tutorials from baking the sand in the oven:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SnTpwZdkrUc
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4pYYtNPoWVw
Those were just two highlights. I'm not entirely sure which one to follow or if there is a better method of drying one's sand for the purposes of miniature basing and diorama making.

>>96523001 (OP)
Can anyone recommend an extra thin super glue available in EU?

I need something almost water like in consistency for some really fine metal details to glue on plastic, I want to avoid any kind of gunk etc.

>>96535685
It doesn't fuckin matter. Just pick one.

>>96535821
Alright I’ll bake the sand in the oven. To dry it out. That will make the particles loose right?

I'm going to start on some of my kit bashed dwarfs.

Tried the P3 Bloodstone and really like it. Colour is kind of off in the photo but its a rich clay colour without the overly orange tint of a lot of gw paints that i think id rather use for the drybrushing stage.

Just a shame P3 is kind of a bitch to get out of the states as this is probably going to use half the pot for two thing coats.

What colors would I mix into a dark cold brown (TTC scorched earth or Drayd Bark) to lighten it to an appropriate highlight color?

>>96536487
With all browns and such, I personally keep adding "sunny skintone" and it works.

retard newb anon back asking how is this so far?

>>96536561
Looking good so far anon, baby steps

>>96536561
Everything is "in lines" and the coverage is smooth as far as I can tell. Good going, anon.

>>96536590 >>96536601
thanks you 2, trying to make and "Order of the Sacred Rose" and hopefully the color scheme i found online will turn out good if i dont fuck it up

How might I highlight the wood staff and brown part of the cloak to differentiate them? I used the same color on both

tonk

Working on this kitbash. He's gonna be a techpriest engiseer for my garbage world imperial guard.
>local admech dump their trash and failed STC prints etc on this world
>people are forced to scavenge what they can into a proper force to meet the tithe
>have developed a subcult of Machine God worship that views the trash as gifts that are in need of redemption
>the cutter priests are both the primary tinkerers and the ones most knowledgeable about which trash is the most valuable to save

>>96537254
Needs a bit of weathering a grime to give it some age and show use.

>>96531334
>>96531341
>>96531352
It's got almost no contrast.The brightest part of the rock is the same color as the ground cover, there are very few shadows, and the ground cover itself is almost completely monotone.
Stipple in patches of darker brown, darker green, and a little bit of orange or russety light brown on the grass. Try to concentrate the darker colors in areas where the ground is a little lower, and the orangey-red tones (IE, patches of moss) in very small bits scattered around the edges and any slightly bald areas. You can also stipple in patches of gray-green and yellow for lichen on the smoother bits of rock, add in a dark blue/grey wash to the overhangs, and generally crank up the shading.

continued work on the troll (don't mind the dust), focused on the brass nmm and the charms in the hair, though I may make those closer to jade
can't say I know what I'm doing, but fairly pleased. No clue how to handle the bracelet though

>>96537304
he needs some bulking on the torso I think. Maybe a large backpack or a cape to block out the gap, make it less obvious where two figures converge. Inspired design on the waist though, I love greebles.

>>96538237
yeah maybe, I'll try just fixing the join better with some plastic putty first and see if that ends up being better.. then look through and see what backpacks I might have

Took a stab at doing something a bit cleaner, crisper and more vibrant (did adjust levels slightly to account for the lamp). Pretty happy with the results and went much faster (done in three painting sessions) compared to my first Space Marines I did last month. Found another quirk with square transfer stickers but it’s one of those things no one will notice once the varnish is applied (but now I know for the future to leave tiny cuts on each side).

Once I wrap up the other four dudes in the set I’ll get everyone on proper bases.

However I have a new phobia: getting reasonably-priced Winsor & Newton brushes for edge highlights/faces with tariffs in place. I bought quite a few in bulk and I take care of them, but all brushes do have a lifespan.

found an old picture of the old eldrad model that really inspired me to get started on him. I really like the maroon and emerald green combo, and may make a unit in that color scheme in the future

>>96538791
Very nice, crisp paintjob. Excellent consistent highlights on the armor (the red gun casing could use some love though). The colors on the face are a bit crushed due to lighting, but look very good otherwise.
Awesome work, full marks.

>>96538967

Thank you! The weapons do have edge highlights but, like you said, the light unfortunately blends them with the rest of the base coat.

Once I get everyone on their bases and the matte varnish applied, I’ll take some photos in the light box so all the various aspects can be properly shown.

>>96538791
>be a skilled enough shooter to earn marksman's honour
>get put into a close range AoE weapon squad
I wonder if he's salty about the placement.

>>96539053

He’s just super good with that little pistol.

What are the best fair skin tone paints coverage wise?
Preferably excluding the Citadel ones because I am an anti-Citadel autist.

Trying to paint up some flayed and stretched flesh for some flesheater courts. Anyone got some good examples or techniques for veiny skin?

>>96537766
Looks good anon. The pants being the same as his skin seems odd though.

>>96539189
>he doesn't know about skin pants

>>96536837
Brown in very flexible, you can mix desaturated yellow into the brown to highlight the staff and then mix a bit of blue into the cloak highlight.

Besides Duncan Rhodes, what other painting youtubers are worth a gander?
>t. new to miniature painting.

>>96539664
Vince V. and Darren Latham if you can find his videos. That's about it, almost everything else is slop.

>>96539669
thanks!

>>96538791
the rainbow guard on the flamer looks bad. everything else very nice.

>>96539674
Oh and older Juan Hidalgo videos, before he became a sellout shill like everyone else

>>96539677
It's not a "rainbow guard", it's heat stress on the metal and it's a real thing. And I think anon pulled it off really well (though I personally prefer soot for flamers, with heat stress effects saved for meltas).

>>96539689
Your picture shows why it's bad. There's too many distinct colours with almost no overlap, so it looks striped. Like a rainbow rather than a real object that has been scorched.

Tricky to try to do a weathering technique on an otherwise clean approach. Would have been better just leaving it one shade like the leather.

>>96539664
Don't chase faces, chase techniques.
Put the thing you want to try into the search bar, watch a couple of 5-minute videos, then ACTUALLY GO AND TRY IT OUT.
Watching YT tutorials isn't magic, paint stripper is widely available, go and practice.

>>96539757
To be fair, you only need a couple of actual "techniques" to paint well, everything else is just execution and practice.

>>96539757
>Put the thing you want to try into the search bar
knowing the names of the things isn't automatic

having a crack at painting with volumetrics and without washes - i'm learning a lot

>>96539819
ope

>>96539819
>>96539823
Yeah ditching washes for at least some of your painting forces you to actually think about how light behaves. Godspeed, anon.

>>96539814
I think you underestimate the breadth of video titles.
If you search a description of the effect you want, you'll find something that - at worst - you can triangulate from.
>>96539823

>>96539839
for sure. i'm using a photo with the light bouncing off of the model at a specific angle as a reference and it's actually pretty interesting to see what should and shouldn't be illuminated
the base is getting the classic basecoat/wash/drybrush treatment, i'm just focusing on the model itself for now

>>96524424
Mr hobby is quality

I love working with white paint so much. You can be using the exact same mix for 5 miniatures then you will get to the 6th and it will be like "you know what bro? It's time to clog your shit" and then you gotta fix the mess so you can continue.

Bros im new into minis paiting and i need help choosing color that would fit the armor i paitined for now i tried those 3 (blue and purple are not shaded). What color would fit this armor the most?

I'm going to try and use a wash through the airbrush to save some time since I'm batch painting, anything to bear in mind? I use Seraphim Sepia to filter my armour, do washes need to be thinned? I assume you can probably get away with something like 1:2 thinner to paint ratio with a wash, right?

>>96540110
washes work differently when you airbrush them - they act as tints and do not pool where you want them to like when you brush them on
try it out on a test model and see for yourself

>>96539677
Oh fuck you that's easily the most impressive thing on that figure.It could be smoother I guess but it really sells the point that this thing goes red hot when it's fired up.

>>96540163
That's exactly what I'm looking for so I hope it works out well, I use seraphim sepia as a way to make the armour more earthy and warm since the base colour is a bit neutral for my taste, and then shade manually with a darker brown in the recesses.
I'm interested mostly in the mix ratio though, since washes are already quite liquid.

>>96538791
>>96540213
actually, look at the bottom left picture
That's where the flamer's barrel looks like it should look like
100% perfect right there

I'm playing around with Fotosketcher (someone itt recommended it a while ago) to get some quick and easy sepia-fade going on my miniature pics.

How much is too much before its a brown and blurry mess? Is pic related already too much?

>>96538791
The knife needs more color/details. Its just a slab of grey with a thin line dividing the single metallic color...

Okay, this is stupid question but - if I finished using compressor for today and will likely not use it for next few months - how to release air from the tank? Should I use same valve that control pressure at airbrush by slowly increasing it until tank is empty (it's set to zero now) or use this red piece on tank? "Manual" basically tells me nothing about it (it is actually composed of two small pages).

>>96540955
Turn it off so it won't compress any more air and open the valve that increases pressure. Wait till it stops hissing, done.

>>96540955
You can push on the water trap drain valve, works faster than the airbrush. Once the pressure has calmed down a good bit you can also unscrew the drainage plug at the bottom of the tank (though slowly and carefully), and before putting everything away for a few months sounds like a good time to get the condensation water out of the tank anyway.

>>96541038
>>96540971
Okay, thanks. One more thing - I saw people cleaning airbrush by applying water/cleaning solution and pressing trigger while blocking front part with finger. But in mine case there is this fancy front part that obviously cannot be blocked like that. So far I cleaning it simply with water and old brush, then took needle out, cleaned it and nozzle and put everything back in place but maybe that other solution is better. What to do?

>>96541077
>But in mine case there is this fancy front part that obviously cannot be blocked like that
Unscrew that part, then pinch around the tip of the airbrush (including the protruding needle tip & nozzle) between your forefinger and thumb to block it.

>>96541117
Alright, thanks. To be honest, I got airbrush and compressor solely to get around problem of using spray cans for primers and varnishes but wanted to give painting a try. Maybe it's just my lack of experience but I'm honestly thinking there is too much work for results I get, as if 3/4 of time is spent on preparation and cleaning equipment after work. I got this little tank model solely for testing this approach and already want to rather paint camo or apply highlights with sponge instead. Tried mixing brighter green and spraying, for example and barely noticed difference.

>>96541172
>Tried mixing brighter green and spraying, for example and barely noticed difference.
If you sprayed a lighter green on a green base and barely notice anything then that's because the two tones are too similar so there's not much difference to notice, or the coat you applied is too translucent, or you covered everything too evenly so there are no differing regions to have a noticeable difference between. None of these are on the airbrush.
But yes, cleaning the airbrush after use does take some time, so you'll certainly want to keep your regular brushes around too. One tool isn't the right one for every job.

>>96541172
Do more models at the same time. Then you'll only have to prep and clean once for a large number of models.

>>96541172
>>96541231
What anon says here, lighter green isn't enough on it's own, put some yellow in the green.

>airbrush nozzle broke
so it finally happened....

ok bros which one?

>>96541389
Red one has the most contrast and goes best with green eyes so I'd go with that myself. Purple could work if you used something more vibrant.

>>96541389
Red

>>96541248
I guess it makes sense when you are about to prepare whole army or even do zenithal on large number of guys. Makes me feel that this entire investment was not completely pointless. But I also noticed that I use up spray cans rather fast so it could be worth for saving on this element alone.

>>96541231
I was using normal brushes for 4 years now, while intended original reason for airbrush was different, I wanted to at least give it a try while I'm at it. From what I understand however, I can't use solvent based paints (like Tamiya "acrylics" or Mr Hobby varnishes) with this airbrush anymore after putting AK acrylic paints in it.

>>96541389
Red is most striking and has the most contrast. How did you do the eye glow?

>>96541335
The fuck are you doing that you broke a chunk of brass with paint and incredibly low air pressure?

>>96541389
They all look desaturated like you frosted them with some coating.

The Mr Hobby PS289 and the GSI Creo 289 are the same thing right?

>>96541474
It was during cleaning ;_;

>>96541552
Unless you were using a tool to screw it in (you shouldn't, fingers are safer), don't feel too bad about it - these parts are so tiny that it's very common case. This is why there are numerous instructions on how to remove broken elements and replacement nozzles are widely available.

>>96541673
Yeah, I was using the tool that came with it. I also learned that you shouldn't really unscrew it very often, though I was in the habit of cleaning the nozzle separately after every session. Oh well, you live and you learn, luckily the replacement is only like 25 bucks.

>>96541474
Chineseium nozzles are absurdly delicate.

>>96541709
That's your hint to get an airbrush with a floating nozzle design. Probably won't be just 25 bucks, but on the other hand you'll probably get an actually good airbrush.

>>96542213
I gotta say I am a bit lost here, I did want to change airbrush but I'm not quite sure which to get. I was looking into the PS289, which seems to also have a screw in nozzle. Which ones have floating nozzles in the 100-150 range? Or is that reserved for the tippity top ones?

>Never use white rattle cans after having every single brand turn into a sand blasting machine and give my minis the bubonic plague
>ask wife to pick up grey primer
>she grabs white and insists it's the same despite never painting in her life
>test it on some random shit, seems fine, move to main item
>it sand blasts the fuck out of my brand new $70 mini
>mfw I cant be mad at her because I didnt even fucking listen to myself
I sincerely hate that airbrush clean up time is going to take longer then the actual priming, but this is pretty much the only way I can add any white to my under coats.

Here's another beastie all painted up! I had more stripes on him before the glaze, but they didn't give him any tactical advantage whatsoever

>>96542269
My H&S Evolution Silverline has it, and I'm pretty sure that's a good few steps from the very top. Dunno what it costs new today though, I've had it for something like a decade by now.

>>96542281
Getting a coarse, sand-papery surface finish? Sounds like you're a bit far away with the spray can, leaving the paint to half-dry before it hits the model. Or you're using some absolutely not miniature-suited paint in a misdirected attempt to save some money.

>>96542390
I see. I've been looking a bit and it seems to come down (in my budget, I don't want to spend 200+ on a airbrush just now) to choosing between the PS289 and the H&S Ultra and at that price range it seems like the 289 is the better one. It also seems like you can unscrew the whole head part when doing deep cleaning which means you don't have to unscrew the nozzle.
Would appreciate any help from people well versed in airbrushes. I can get:

H&S Ultra for 110€
PS289 for 140€
H&S Evolution for 170€

>>96542497
Oh and there's a fourth option, Iwata Eclipse HP-CS for 162€.
I care mostly about sturdiness and being easy to maintain.

>>96542497
NTA, but there are plenty of pros who use Fengda BD-180 and claim that it is better than Ultra. Like Nightshift, for example.

>>96542497
One thing to look for is a full set of teflon or whatever it was seals, so they can stand up to the perkier paints and brush cleaners out there. Maybe not terribly important if you just use water based acrylics, but it's nice to have options, and even with the acrylics it may be nice to be able to pour in some really harsh cleaners in there at times.

>>96542497
>those prices

Meanwhile I thought that 120 PLN I paid for my airbrush was too much (equivalent of around 26€, version with floating nozzle would cost equivalent of 57€ and I considered it too high).

>>96537304

Loving the Cawd-Mech esthetic. Trash boys for life!

I've attempted to do a grimdark spacewolves scheme by using a brown undercoat and then sponging on mechanicus grey. Not sure where to go from here though or what to use to shade

I never expected to actually get this when I bid 30$ for it, but I somehow did.
Do I turn this into a Vampire Counts dragon or some kinda goofy night goblin wyvern?

>>96542627
The PS289 is like a good 40 or 50€ more expensive than it should be too, I don't know what's going on with airbrush prices honestly.
>>96542523
I'm a bit reluctant to get a chinesium airbrush honestly, I'm afraid of the parts being too fragile.
>>96542541
Noted though I'll be spraying acrylics like, 99.9% of the time since spraying oils and lacquers kinda scares me even though I have a respirator.

Quick(at least by my standards) tomb guard dude

I got a bunch of 10mm stuff to get through. Any dudes with experimented speed painting large amounts of small miniatures to a decent tabletop standard? Curious whether anyones tested out whether using speedpaint/contrast would be faster than basecoating the primary color, drybrushing highlights, and then painting some major details like weapons/skin normally. Maybe even use the 'ol dip technique to do quick and dirty shading.

Or perhaps theres a 3rd way?

>>96543316
at first I honestly thought this was bare plastic with fuckin dirt on it lmfao

>>96543316
I agree with the other anon, you need to introduce more colour variation or they just look unpainted. I suggest grabbing a few greys or making a few grey mixes and sponging them, add some streaking, shade the recesses with a dark grey or even a black. They have very little contrast now and just reads as mostly unpainted.
You could try adding some blue to your lighter grey mixes as well to introduce some hue variation so it isn't so grey. It would also contrast with the warmer brown red.

>>96543660
Berry good. The headpiece highlights frame the face nicely, smart placement of where to put in the effort.

Finished up my kratos. I got lazy with the weathering since I don't think I'll ever actually use this guy.

How did I do? armaggedon dust and agrellan earth, they're different colors, i did my best to blend them together.

>>96543316
Do the trims in a color that seperates them from the armor, like gold.

Give them an overall wash with agrax earthshade to get some shadows in the recesses.

Then use a lighter grey to do chipping and scratches.

Paint one shoulder pad in some vibrant color like red or yellow or neon green or whatever.

>>96536837
Progress. I'm happy with the staff. A little iffy on the cloak. I don't hate it, but I wasn't entirely planning on milk chocolate color for it. Actually looking at the staff in pictures I probably need to bump the brightness again.
The face so far only has the base coast, shade, then layered back base coat. But is it on the right track? This is the first time I'm trying a face without relying on contrast paint.

>>96543932
The face looks pretty good.
I'd honestly lean more into making the cloak look leathery and dry brush it with skrag brown.
Or you could darken it down with a layer of garaghak's sewer or similar.

>>96543932
Both the cloak and staff are nice honestly. I really like the shading on that brown cloth.
>>96543923
Can't really tell it's 2 different things, looks good.
>>96543885
Sponging works really well for some quick and decently looking weathering.
>>96543511
I love these old school dragons, so goofy yet oddly charming
>>96542337
Great colors as always!

>>96543923
that looks great

>>96542337
Oooh, I like him. Nice base, too.

My first time pinning a mini.

>>96544036
Good job, Anon!

>>96544036
...25 years ago

>>96533284
Thin white paint with white ink instead of water.

I got my first airbrush and I'm trying to prime
Is it normal for the primer to look smooth from the naked eye but very rough and textured when using a loupe?
I'm using vallejo surface primer grey

>>96545062
Btw it's obviously not a problem but I'm wondering if I'm just airbrushing terribly
I remember if I tried rattle can priming in bad weather it'd cover my models with a texture and that would ruin them
You can't really see this texture but still, I could be doing something wrong

>>96545062
PSI too high or spraying too far away maybe

>>96536030
lil naked fella

>>96544838
You don't have to tell me twice!
But in the stone age...

I ended up grabbing a Iwata HP-CS since it has by far the most availability of parts. Here's hoping I made a good choice.

i made medical and mechanical gentlemen
man that white looks grainy on camera and i thought i did pretty well

>>96545090
Different anon but what pressure is recommended for spraying this primer or water-based acrylics in general? I only vaguely recall somebody mentioning 2 Bar.

>>96545928
Depends on humidity, temperature, needle size and what paint it is, but usually around 20 to 25 psi is fine.

>>96542281
generic white sprays are very heavy on particles because they need coverage, you're going to get a lot of build up with anything more than a light pass. try drybrushing some pro acryl white instead.

Finishing up the assassin. I love that his pose is so open that you don't have to subassemble him and you can get your brush in everywhere

>>96535618
they likely using a wax paper/baking paper intended for food use as a nonstick paper hence the paint beading/breaking up like that

Finished my rats

>>96546088
Also did a stormvermin bodyguard with red lacquered armor. Will try to recycle the scheme for khorne warriors when I finally get around to painting them.

So I have discovered that you can do easy nmm by just painting a model in highlighted grayscale in metalic shimmer patterns, glaze to desired colour and then glaze the grey blocking alongside the black base coat to smooth out transitions before highlighting white and glazing to again to a lighter tone before applying dark ink in shaded areas for contrast.

But is there any cheatsy ways to do good looking fabric or skin? There is no point being able to do nmm if the skill ceiling still means you can't do the rest of the model to an equal standard.

>>96545947
So 2 bar was too high and 1.5 is safer? Okay. Dunno why Jose Davinci shows on his video 2-2.5 bar as recommended then.

>>96543801
Thanks anon but I gotta be honest I just went with GW style so everything is edge highlighted lol. I don't feel like putting some tremendous effort into these guys, I'll ramp it up for standout units

(Re)primed my Volkus terrain, maybe i’ll manage to paint it before the next edition drops

>>96546269
2 to 2.5 seems a tad high to me but if he's doing it he's doing it for a reason and most likely he isn't wrong about it.
It's hard to give a value but basically anywhere between 1 and 3 bar is okay, I prefer to go with lower pressure for better control and less spidering. The best way to find out is to just grab your airbrush and play around with it a bit to see which one you like.

>>96540031
Red looks good. Gray or brown would work too.

Afternoon fellas. I was given a Reivers squad by a friend and I'm now busy trying to integrate them into my Carcharadons. First of all, those skull operator heads had to go. Other than that, just some resin base toppers from eBay and a good old fashioned scrape through the bits box. Here's the first few with the Leviathan Phobos Lieutenant, which has been sitting around for a long while.

>>96546757

2/2

>>96546765

Drilling barrels, late-spotted mould lines ofc

Put two coats of paint+primer on a batch of horrors and this one came out weird with the second coat cracking and being very easy to chip for some reason. I think it might have been the same one where the first coat looked matte and not glossy like the rest. What did I do wrong and is there a way to fix this, or do I just need to strip it?

>>96546794
I don't know why but my wraithbone primer does the same thing if I hit a model for just a second too long
you might just have over-sprayed it.

>>96546794
Strip it.

>>96546794
>>96547117
You gotta shake the can for at least two minutes.
Only spray in short bursts and do it from side to side, not head on.

My wife has been painting some 3d prints for a bit now and generally I find them to be quite good but I'm not super knowledgeable about painting minis, plus I'm sure I'm biased. I'm thinking of getting her either some more/nicer paints, or going for an airbrushing setup. I know she's mentioned being interested in airbrushing but I dont really know the pros and cons of it, and I assume there'd still be some non airbrush painting involved? Basically I'm just looking for some suggestions on stuff that would make a good gift for model painters.

Pic related as an example, this was done a little while ago and I think she's gotten a little better since then.

>>96547359
The main airbrush con is that it's a bit of a hassle to set up and clean when you're done. So it's annoying when you just need to do one little thing. The other cons are the learning curve and the compressor noise (get one with a tank). And yes, you will likely combine it with brush painting for details and sharp lines, though using a very fine needle and good technique you can make pretty fine lines, but fine needles are easy to clog.

I dunno what paints she's using, any of the typical mini painting brands are pretty good. Each line has some stand out paints and some duds. Avoid Citadel. Their quality is fine, but they charge double and their pots suck.

>>96547157
This. Never point at the model and spray. Start spraying next to the model and drag the spray over it, then stop on the other side and repeat.

Shake the fuck out of it, and avoid nasty weather conditions. Too wet/dry, too cold/hot, too windy, everything can fuck with your prime.

>>96547493
I think shes still using a fairly basic set of ~15 paint kit, with maybe an extra 1-2 augmenting it. Maybe just some nicer paints/brushes and let her make the jump to airbrushing when she wants.

>>96547157
took your advice for a small sprue of purity seals, worked great, no clumping or cracking.
I've been getting more use out of my gundam markers than I ever did in gunpla, the paint is very good for filling details and leaves a shiny resin coating. I've used them for everything from little metalic green dots in my kriegers drilled out lasgun barrels, to the wire insulation on the dreadnought coffin.
I actually made the display on the Krieg kill team's filtration units green as well, to signify a pip-boy style tube-screen, rather than the little red and blue needle readout, because I'm lazy

Odd question - what I could actually use as replacement for Lego blocks to make casting box for Blue Stuff casting? Blocks are easy to get and build at desired shape and size then easy to take apart to release the mold but each time I use it, there is always, ALWAYS a problem with box deforming by Blue Stuff "pushing aside" walls when I apply pressure to pressing block with C-clamp. I don't have workshop so I can't make rigid box out of wood/metal and even if, there would still be a problem with moving out Blue Stuff mold since it tend to get stuck to the walls, even if I apply vaseline on them. Thats just a few problems I have with casting but lets just cover one thing at a time.

Anyone could help?