Thread 96406783

Work in Progress "Colourful Stabby Ladz" Edition

>Full-on /WIP/ OP Links Pastebin
https://pastebin.com/BE42AEcD

>WIP Tutorial Images Mega
https://mega.nz/#F!TvQFCaLb!w8WZKCcOsTRasxrI0JWezw

>Saint Duncan's "Six Things I Wish I Knew When I Started Painting"
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ufP8ka3KGno

>Saint Duncan also explains thinning your paints
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wxWgsqSf74s

>Paint thinning 102
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sBDVPoNXyVI

>4 EASY Chipping Tricks For Beginners
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ku4comhKHJM

>Decal Like a Pro
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SYKLiEW7p9c

>How to Edge Highlight
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KoRbYuAfbEk

>How to use contrast style paints
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IhholrozptI

>How to Paint with Tremors
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oqp76vAJu9g

>Airbrush Priming and Thinning
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jkntrSBvXxE
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IGjBQzoukFg
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=00JVUxABe44
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AEqT_R41JX8

>Who's Johnny, she'd say, and smile in her special way
https://1d6chan.miraheze.org/wiki/Johnny

>Previous Threads:
>>96389366
>>96372057
>>96346066
>>96323165

I think I’ve spent more money on paints and art supplies than miniatures. Am I one of you guys now?

Well, I went ahead and tried removing the nosepiece from one of my Krieg Kill team.
A bit rough, but I think it turned out alright.

>>96407057
Looks pretty good. I tried to trim their helmet lips down to look more steel legion, kind of annoying that the lip is pretty much in line with the rest of the neck so there isn't much extra to clip. Did scrape off the vent on the top though.

2 Termie project is finished. Here's the loyalist terminator. Brazen Claws have a fun and challenging paint scheme. I think I might have done better on my chaos one (next post) but still had a good time anyway. The model itself was originally Brother Dyrael from SM heroes series 2

My Rakarth Flesh looks like it has bits of sand in it or something. It still works as a paint, but it's really annoying to have to keep that shit off my brush when I'm reloading the brush.
It's also really thin for a base paint. Like it almost doesn't need to be thinned.

>>96407180
This one's not any actual warband, I made the pauldron insignia up on the fly. I think it's a "Luna wolves but heretic" based warband

>>96406858
>Am I one of you guys now?
Call us back when you spill your first pot of Agrax Earthshade.

Ten more goblins down. Many more goblins to go.

I've never done a sub assembly that needed a stand before I didn't know else to hold it as the wash dries.

Okay, it's time to attempt some NMM on my saturnine praetor guy. Wish me luck friends

>>96407410
Good luck, Anon.

>>96407337
this gives me anxiety

>>96407337
My first and only spill so far was Cassandora yellow. And it was only because I was closing it with one hand and the bottle slipped on my desk.

It's a little late to ask, but am I required to use the heavy shell plated on the Tyrant Guard for it to count? I kind of liked how the look without it, and they're more posable.

>>96407386
You could try double-sided tape. Not sure how you have that head attached, there.

>>96407386
You could try double-sided tape. Not sure how you have that head attached, there.

It's coming together but not done yet. I would like to do some spongey stippling for wear and tear and also some decals though it'll be my first time trying them.

Some smol boys to varnish. Need some
Good fpv drone markers for this scale...

>>96407743
just some sticky tac. It's done now so it's fine.

>>96407410
Okay here's the nmm sketch. No blending so I can quickly change stuff. I was going to block in the base brown color everywhere it should be but I'm tired and I wanna go to bed
I think I'll do the sketches on all the steel and gold, and then from there I can fiddle with details and I'll have a better idea of the overall look when I try and figure out stuff like any plasma glow or OSL and how to handle the hammer. and once I know the rest of the plan I can blend the sketches a bit.

>>96407870
Lookin' good. Very smol.

>>96407788
Looks good so far. I'm sure you won't have any decal issues they're pretty straightforward as long as the surface is flat and smooth.

>>96407724
Nah, nobody normal cares in games, just do what looks cool and say it has whatever options you want.

>>96407916
great, I'm building up quite a collection of kitbash parts, I'm thinking of ordering Zoanthropes for a second squad, but mostly just to have the extra 'thrope headplate.

>>96407386
I use clothes pins, the bigger ones or the wider plastic ones.

>>96407916
Very good placement of values imo

>>96407916
i'll be that guy
you left moldines on both hands, dont ruín that amount of effor in the paintjob by leaving them there

>>96407180
>>96407195
Very nice termies, anon. I admire the effort to do the half and half scheme.
>>96407362
Lovely gobbos, I like how there are varying skin colors across the unit.
>>96407788
Good going, anon. Decals are a lot easier to do correctly if you have the chemicals that glue and soften them. Microsol and microset or mr mark setter and mr mark softer are good ones, if you have a way to pick them up I'd recommend it.
>>96407870
very cute tiny bois
>>96407916
I think you placed the shadows and highlights REALLY well, already reads as metal and it's not even blended yet.

Previous thread died before I could get an answer, maybe someone will be able to give a hint here:

Getting back to previous question about making molds - while I'm still going to try out that Fleximold, probably tomorrow, I wonder about what could be done to fix problem with casting from Blue Stuff mold. When I place original piece inside it, it looks like that mold itself is okay (I still occasionally get bubbles, despite removing water after heating phase, no idea why) but as if Milliput is pushing it instead. Then again, if I place just enough material to fill the mold, plus small piece on top to let them connect, they usually don't - sometimes falling to two halves after taking off, sometimes breaking in two when I drill them or otherwise treat with some force. Probably using some more "liquid" material would help but then again, with BS I can only make two piece molds (fucking autocorrect keep changing it to "moulds") and any liquid would either flow out or leak while I press the two halves (and cold BS is quite resistant to cutting or drilling, at least mine). Just trying to find solution.

>>96407916
Looks good when I squint, so just needs blends.

>homebrew space marine project completely stalled because i can't think of a chapter symbol for /my dudes/
graphic design is not actually my passion, i don't know what i'm doing. i'm tempted to just through one or two kanji on a pauldron, but a little voice in my head says i'm being too lazy and weeb.

>>96409125
Give me the background

>>96409125
while it doesn't stop me from painting i'm also stuck with what symbol to put on my VC army, my banners and shields are barren
i'm thinking something ravens

>>96409125
>>96409150
Iteration works for me. Just draw like 50-100 symbols (go nuts), pick the best 5, draw another batch based on those, pick your favorites again and combine the best parts of them into your final design.

>>96409195
this guy graphic designs.

>>96407185
pot is cooked

>>96409195
sometimes i try something like that, but i can't draw (very badly) more than a few because i run out of ideas, i get fustrated and abandon it

picrel is my most recent attempt

>>96409139
linage is Imperial Fists
part of the cursed founding, mechanicum weren't even close to fixing the two organs that went missing. instead they suffer ultra insomnia and an overactive omophagea, no cool super powers. over the last 5000 years, they've took it upon themselves to inherit oaths of fallen chapters (essentially eating dead comrades and remembering them) as they inherit their equipment as well. 1st company started this tradition after eating the remains of a blood angels successor early on.
battle brother count is always under under strength, with a company basically dedicated to running missions specifically with/for mechanicum as part of an oath (and part to keep chapter's equipment maintained)
love me bolters, love me terminators, love me lightning claws, love me dreadnoughts. edgy bois, and i've come up a scheme so that i can proxy for Dark Angels and Blood Angels rules whenever being Imperial Fists is suffering on the table top.

>>96409195
"do whatever you want" stunlocks me. self expression feels like giving away private information. also, i don't doodle

Why the hell there are so many chinese brush brands on Aliexpress? Which one is good?

>>96409328
>Why the hell there are so many chinese _____ brands on Aliexpress?
because china

>Which one is good?
probably one of them, or two, but you can't be sure beforehand
~50% are the same exact product with the same photos sold by an arbirtrary number of different shops, the other ~40% are most likely rebrands or variants made in the same factory, and maybe 1 or 2 of the remaining ones are actually good

this applies to any product, for some things the first 50% is the 100%, and sometimes it works and that's all you need

>>96409265
Yep, lol. Can't rely on inspiration.

>>96409323
Just start throwing whatever on paper, doesn't even need to be good. After a couple weird squiggles you'll probably find one to iterate on. It's called thumbnailing, widely used in design.

>>96409326
>self expression feels like giving away private information
Never thought of it that way, I guess you can delete/burn it after?

>>96409328
It's a Chinese website.

>>96407195
Looks like an eye of horus

>>96409385
>Never thought of it that way,
probably because you aren't mentally ill. growing up knowing "anything and everything you reveal can and will be used against you" instilled some high levels of paranoia. now in the age of the internet, faggots create entire algorithms and ai to try to predict 'you' based on your every action.
>just get rid of it after
it's an entire mindset that is crippling me, my guy. there are certain things that i just don't want to leave my mind, "brain off, and let the pen speak" exercises are the rorschach tests i've resisted for decades.

quick zenithal priming question, should I wait for the black primer to fully cure before I do the white spray, or can I do the white as soon as the black is dry?

>>96409495
any airbrush stuff should be fine. But ideally you would probably want to leave it for a day or so before you actually start handling it or brush painting (more so for 'handling', painting is probably fine in most cases).

>>96409481
>"anything and everything you reveal can and will be used against you"
I felt similar during my getting bullied in high school period, alcohol unironically fixed me.
I dunno, as long as you're drawing symbols for some imaginary sci-fi army and not your sexual desires, I don't see how that could be used against you. But I guess there's little point trying to rationalize a phobia.

>>96409495
Let it dry for a bit, doesn't have to be too long for spraying. A brush will mess with the paint if it's not dry yet.

>>96409642
>not your sexual desires
i said imperial fists, not dark angels

>>96409326
>eating dead comrades and remembering them
I think you should try to mix a human skull within a raven, a raven holding the skull or the raven being around the skull to reflect this thematic. Here is a quick example.

>>96409694
You're into Jonson?

>>96409803
Nifty design. Not sure how well it reads when small though.

>>96409495
Damn. Yukari's really living the life.
Do you think she watches Nightshift?
How come Nightshift is so much less cringe than every other miniature style painting. Is it just what mini painters are inherently worse people than historical armor modelers?

>>96407618
I spilled the old Citadel Green Ink on my moms favourite rug as a kid and got enough of a hiding I've never spilled another bottle of wash or ink. And some say corporal punishment doesn't work!

>>96409916
>How come Nightshift is so much less cringe than every other miniature style painting
Warhammer just got too popular. Plamo modelers are almost universally better youtubers. I've been watching some Japanese dude build cars and bikes lately and it's so nice and calming. No shilling, no obnoxious attempts to make a name for himself, not inserting his dumb fucking face into the thumbnail and video whenever possible. You can clearly see he actually enjoys the hobby and is not treating it like a job like so many western sloptubers do.
I'm sorry for getting triggered but I really hate what western youtube has become.

>>96409916
Because Nightshift isn't chasing the 40k fan algorithm. He painted precisely one Warhammer model, a Sicaran, and he did it in the same way he does every other scale model

>>96409812
no, i just find it strange that people's minds immediately go to sexual thoughts whenever i say something about wanting to keep my mental privacy.
also, sorry you got bullied, nerd.

>>96409803
it will look like a fucked up turkey if i attempt that.

>>96410031
I don't know if any data supports this, but I think it's just rat race shit infesting western society in general. don't get me wrong it's not like it's strictly westoids, but 99% of the time a youtube channel is only done (or at least taken seriously) in the west as a side hustle, and that need for it to be a job first, and making content with any value second, ruins it.
Also it seems like at least in japan the content comes first and the personality second if at all. The *goal* is to become an influencer and make appearances on podcasts and Hot Ones, etc. Not to make good videos people want to watch.
That's the perspective I have on it anyway. I'm probably biased by the fact that I don't speak japanese, so I wouldn't be able to get into any of the garbage personality japanese streamers that I assume also exist.

>>96410043
It's just the most obvious thing one would keep private.
I didn't get bullied for being a nerd.

How long does airbrush primer brushed on take to be safe to apply a second coat?
An hour at least?

>>96410139
i'm calling you a nerd because you got bullied

>>96410145
Depends on several factors, but I wouldn't rub it with a brush for several hours.

>>96410152
Oh, that makes sense.

>>96410164
>Oh, that makes sense.
Stand up for yourself, anon. This is why you get bullied. You don't have to take that shit.

>>96410152
>>96410164
>>96410172

>>96410164
Okay thanks. I’ll try a hairdryer and hope that speeds things up.

Okay, about to try making mold with reusable silicone-like material. I hope it won't end in disaster.

>>96410037
It will never cease to amuse me that his Sicaran is probably the best Warhammer tank model I've ever seen and I'm convinced that he could win a GD with it. But since he is based, he just made his one video about it and that's the end of the story.

>>96410331
Good luck. Report back.

>>96410332
And it's not even notably good compared to the other tanks he does.

>>96410344
>And it's not even notably good compared to the other tanks he does.
he shits on the model a little in that video. Correctly so, too.

AK quick gen paints smell weird. Like blackcurrants. I've never used contrast type paints before and yep, they just look like a thin coat of paint rather than magic. Youtube painters really earn their fees promoting this stuff.

>>96410503
Do they taste like blackcurrant too?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L8vhyuEkc7g
Is this a good tutorial for a beginner to follow to paint black templars? Or is there a better one?

>>96410172
No it wasn't. I beat the shit out of every single one (thanks early growth spurt), but that made me more interesting a target. Also, that was sarcasm.

>>96410310
It will, just don't heat it up too much.

>>96407180
You need to start pre-shading and thinning your paint.
That lenses glow is on fucking point, god damn.

First note - while GSW shows people heating up entire container of Fleximold stuff, it's obviously bad idea as I just experienced. If I was smart enough to predict it, I would rather cut it into smaller pieces and heat up only portion at time (but no idea in what container). Placed it inside pot with water that I kept between 60C (temperature at FM is supposed to melt) and 80C (since GSW recommended not going above 83C) but had to reheat it in meantime since while center was still solid, bottom and sides was melting already. Definitely would prefer heating smaller pieces at time, which would making pouring easier and probably avoid bubbles you see at the pic.

This one is still cooling down (GSW claims it require 2+ hours to do so) but would definitely need to be redone, poured too quickly and air had no chance to escape in time. But, as my co-worker says, first pancakes are always bad or something like that.

Still early days, but been finally getting around to paining this for my iron warriors HH army, waiting for some pro acryl metallics to do the trim in light bronze

>>96410957
Nice clean hazard stripes.

>>96410866
I've never used it, but there might be a benefit of heating up more than necessary in that it's going to stay warm and fluid for longer than if you only just head up as much as you need.
I bet there is a neat application here where you temperature control this and let it sit at 80C for a while in like a water bath to just give the maximum temperature level more time to settle and let bubbles rise.
Part of the issue I see with the concept in general is you want to pour the mold as slowly as possible, which you can do with rubber since it stays fully liquid for a good amount of time, but if you pour the same thin kind of stream with a melted material it's going to nearly cooldown just while it's being poured.

>>96410957
seconding, beautiful hazard stripes

>>96409299
I figured that might be the case. I should've ordered one with all the other shit I just bought. Is Griffon Claw from Two Thin Coats a good copycat color?

I'm painting up the Ossiarch in the middle as a Liche for a Restless Dead Mordheim warband (one of those unofficial lists).

>>96411517
NTA but yes, it's close in color and it's a very good quality paint.

Anyone have good idea for easily removable method of fixing pieces for mold making? I was stupid and used those gum-like "tack" stuff and it left residues on mold material. I will have to cut out later before re-melting those.

I don't really want to try using UV resin today (it's 21:45 for me) but I think that at least faceplate mold is okay. Sure, it have huge bubble but under the face and this part on model is empty anyway.

Anyone able to explain to me, a retarded American, what is going to happen to my bits order from the UK when it arrives next month? Valued at $50.

>>96411770
RE: Tarifs

WIP on Blood Bowl trophies. Any advice on the bases? I'd like to do a marble effect but I dont want to go too mental taking ages to do it.

neat, i secured an op image

anyway I got some 3rd ed kabalite sprues today and spent an hour or two painting this fella up

>>96411913
>neat, i secured an op image
Good on ya!

>anyway I got some 3rd ed kabalite sprues today
Emperor's Teeth! I got a whole box of 'em last weekend! I don't play Dark Eldar, though.

>>96406783 (OP)
Posted this guy headless a few weeks ago, asking for ideas on a gas mask head that would fit. Finally found a good STL and didnt like it at all so I'll use this half burned darth vader looking head instead. I think it looks awesome, definitely fits the vibe of radical inquisitor bordering on heretic. I think i should add some battle damage and extra gubbins, but still thinking on what i could use. My first attempt at making a greenstuff candle turned out like ass but it is probably fixable

>>96412042
Another pic showing the candle from the "good angle" where it actually looks like a candle and not a nurglings cock

Bros when the Nova start? Is it worth staying next 2-3h for news drop if its already late for me or they gonna relase them for next few days?

>>96412064
where did you get this picture of my wife

>>96412053
Nice use of that bird skull. I have a shit ton of and use them liberally

>>96411770
If it is already shipped out (won't be leaving for america anymore until further notice). I think with the tariff rate for the UK right now, the new rules are that you'll be charged 80 dollars per item (I assume this means per package, not literally per paintbrush or whatever in the box, but I'm not sure).

>>96412064
What do you mean 'staying'? Like in case somebody posts an update HERE? Idk if that's the best place for that. Does anything interesting normally happen at Nova? I only know it as a painting competition.

>>96412079
You're wife? What a coincidence, she's my mom
>Fubuki Mama. Mama?
>~ara ara~
>~ara ara~

>>96412090
Thanks anon! Took a bit of shaving on the backside to make it fit. I was thinking of making some greenstuff railroad spikes that make it seem more like it is nailed in place rather than floating awkwardly. Do you think that would be detail overkill and make it look too busy?

>>96411595
I use pieces of plastic from actual sprues from minis. And hot glue, hot glue is nice since it's easy to work with and easy to remove afterwards if you want to, vs something like superglue, and you can even mold and shape it to some extent. Or you can hang them from like a stick suspended over your cup if you wanna do it the opposite way.

I worry that You might have problems with UV resin with the UV actually penetrating the rubber. Maybe if it's clear it will be okay? Idk what GSW says to do.

>>96412298
And what you use later to remove the glue? Or just scrape it with knife?

As for UV Resin, GSW themselves show using it with this material in promo video so I assume that it will work. And pieces are small enough to probably ensure it will cure properly. I will keep it under UV light for longer than usual to be sure.

>>96412244
I don't think it'd be too busy, but you'd just have a hard time making the nail stand out
I'd just leave it

>>96412149
Fuuuuuuuck
Might just eat the losses rather than spend $80

>>96412436
hot glue doesn't really bond with plastic if it's smooth. It'll stick to it but you can just pop it off unless the surface has a lot of texture. Here's an example of one I did with it if you wanna see what I mean.

Here is a quick guide for how I build these palisade ramparts. This post will outline the supplies and tools and in the next few I will go through the simple process.

Tools used

>Cutting tool
Anything will do. If you want perfect edges use a hobby saw and sandpaper, mitre box would help. Here I just used some busted old sidecutters for all of it.

>Pencil Sharpener
For sharpening the dowels, you could also whittle them off if you're a whittler type but that would be much more time consuming

Supplies required

>Basing of your choice
I would recommend the renedra bases if you want to make something modular, they've got bases all the way up to 210mm frontage and a variety of other square bases in many different measurements that you could use to extend the fortifications inward or outward. Also they are perfectly flat and won't warp on you. Use whatever you like, though

>Wooden Dowels (circular and optionally squared)

These are cheap and plentiful and available at just about any dollar or craft store. These circular ones seen here are about 0.5 cm by 30cm. They are a dollar for 20 or so at Dollarama. I think they are a good scale for a smaller 28mm fortification. They have many different sizes available if you want to go bigger, these will fit in a standard pencil sharpener though. I use squared dowels for the rampart floor, you could use rounded ones if you prefer it as well. Same deal there, cheap and widely available.

>Wood Glue

>Super Glue

>Texture paste of your choosing.

>Sealer, thinned PVA works, I recommend Vallejo polyurethane varnish though as it is much more durable and has a better finish which doesn't require priming.

>Paints and weathering products, basing mix/tufts of your choice

Also some sticky tack or dried tack glue balled up will come in handy and I would recommend it for the assembly phase.

>>96413430

Step 1:

Measure and cut your dowels to the desired length. This method is more for a lower sort of wall, say up to 2/3 of a man. Higher walls will take additional steps and require extra considerations so, I will go over that in a future post.

These could be used as field fortifications or you could also create a foam hill to put them on top of, similar to a Roman marching camp if you want a taller fortification. Like earthwork embankments topped with a palisade fortification. I will go over taller walls in the future as there are extra considerations for building them.

Sharpen the tops of the dowels which will make up the vertical portion of the rampart to your taste. You can scuff them up a bit with both the cutting part and outside edge of the sidecutters if you are using them.

Once you have them all prepared, take one of the square dowels you have cut and put a small bit of sticky tack on each far end of it. Stick it to the base you will be attaching it to. Make sure it's on there good and flat.

Take the school glue and apply it to the front side of the squared dowel attached to the base. I just glob it right on there. Don't worry if it gets on the base.

Now line up the dowels and place them onto the glue on the desired front side of squared dowel. The sticky tack or tack glue should hold it in place but don't push too hard. Do your best to try to make sure they are straight up, not bending back etc. though you can vary things up here if you want a more hastily assembled look you can make them somewhat uneven, sticking a little further back or forward. Or if you want a well ordered look line them up perfectly as suits your tastes.

Allow the glue to set a little bit and very carefully pull up the assembled piece and remove the sticky tack underneath if it is stuck to it, or just move it over and away if it isn't. Now very carefully push down on the square dowel against the base to "straighten" everything up so the square dowel is what is most in contact with the base. Rearrange any of the palisade spikes which may have been moved askew. Allow it to cure.

Select how far back you want to place the palisade on the base. Make sure it is at least a little bit back from the very front edge so you can cover the bottom of the spikes in texture paste like seen in the first picture. other than that consideration it is personal preference or whatever is practical for you.

Lay a thick line of superglue down the bottom of the squared dowel and place it on the the base. Let it dry for a minute or two.

>>96413511
>>96413430
Thanks dude. The barbarians in my neighborhood aren't gonna know what hit them next time they try and invade.

Super glue the remaining square dowels to the base, and if you wish to the other dowels to make up the rampart floor. Allow to dry.

Finally, add in texture paste. Use it to cover up any gaps between the rampart and the base itself. Throw it on there as thick as you like but keep in mind not to go too high if you're going to use a basing mix on it.

As you can see this process is very scalable and if you have an airbrush and stay focused you could probably build an entire fort in an afternoon and have it painted by the end of the next day, if not sooner. The materials are incredibly cheap compared to going and buying resin or plastic kits to make the same thing.

Now its done and assembled. Ready for paint if you are using varnish instead of thinned PVA for a sealer. I'll make a tutorial for how I paint them as I paint this one up. Probably tomorrow.

Getting back into this hobby after a long time and I bought some baking paper but was annoyed to learn that it didn't work like the baking paper I bought a decade ago did
I feel like a sucker but is it worth buying a commercial product? It seems quite expensive
Do you guys just wipe the paint off when you're done?
What's the best kind of sponge that you've found?

>>96413647
based on how much I paint (which admittedly isn't THAT often) my 1 package of army painter pallet paper has lasted like 3 years and I'm just nearly running out now.
That said, maybe you bought wax paper? Needs to be parchment paper. Either way, wet pallets aren't really that necessary anyway.

>>96413647
I bought an expensive redgrass one that uses the re-usable papers. They are pretty cool, you just rinse the paint off when you are done and can keep using it for ages. I use it every time I paint, so it's definitely worth the money to get one. You probably don't need to go as expensive as redgrass, I'm sure there are plenty of cheaper alternatives that work just as well.

>>96413647

if you're using a wet palette you need to use parchment paper

that said premade wet pallets are good value sometimes

>>96411840
Try this. with or without carvings

>>96413866
heres a closer look

Making progress...

>>96413886
Wow it's like it's orktober already!

Been working on painting All My Dwarves since around April, finally finished 'em this month.

My current wip, any recommendations for what colors to paint her socks/shorts/shirt/cape?

Gettin' some insignia on these ladz

>>96414206
I guess my next project is gonna be doing up fairly random stuff...ordered a box of random failed prints from Wargames Exclusive (because I love blind bags and was interested in building up my Bits collection). Quality was actually really good, couldn't even tell how the prints were failed in most cases. Anyway, I put together the stuff that went together, got a surprising number of full minis out of it. Also kitbashed a little flyer out of a tank turret and made a pilot for it from a Stargraves sprue.
(Captcha: 8JGAY)

>>96413866
>>96413877
>My name has become a killing word!

This guy came in a larger lot of dwarfs I picked up years ago. Badly damaged, with the left arm torn away and left arm broken above the elbow. I did a very rough conversion/salvaging job using a Northstar (?) Crossbow bit to turn him into a champion for my quarrelers.

The crossbow had the left hand sculpted on so i had to do a bit of cutting and shaving. Again, it's a very rough job and the pose is a bit derpy, but converting and kitbashing is so much fun that I'm kind of glad it was already damaged and forced me to adapt him into something else.


I don't know what to do with his left hand:
An axe or hammer - kind of lame and predictable
A shield - maybe? I'm not convinced it fits the crossbow
A pointing hand or a fist - possibly the most fitting.
Hand holding a quarrel - this might work too.
I wish I had a hand holding a spyglass or some other tool, it'd make him very unique.
>>96406783 (OP)

>>96414270
Did something similar with this guy. He'd been living in a shoebox since I was in highschool, over 20 years without being painted. Lost and arm and one of his legs broke off, so I replaced his lower body and left arm with one from a more recent dwarf warrior. Hands are a bit mismatched, and the connection at the shoulder wasn't clean, but I still love the little guy.

>>96414332
derp forgot pic
>>96414270
Anyway, I think the clenched fist/pointing hand would be easiest, but yeah, if you can find a more unique bit for the off hand it would be a lot more fun.

>>96414341
Very cool! Always liked the 6th ed plastic!

Finally almost done with the base colors of my Yaegirs.

I'm a bit at a loss in regards to the cloak of the sniper.

My initial plan was to do a similar off white to the overcoats but with a different shading color and then later use weathering pigment to get a brown gradient but now I'm wondering if I should first do some zig-zag stripes like the box-art, or maybe some flectarn as a pattern first, or if it's just fine as is with white on white.

seems like this is the correct place to ask this, tho this problem is probly just me being a autist.
How do i start and not sperg out thinking i fucked up the mini even tho i barley started?
fear of failure has been causing me to never paint the few kits that i got and this all wargames/miniture games i wanted to try. if one of the videos in the op has that answer feel free to call me a retard or some shit i guess.

>>96414470
Uuuuh I think your squad might have been infiltrated.

>>96414471
You need to paint miniatures in order to get good at painting miniatures. Either buy some cheap minis that you could use as practice, or get a paint stripper and clean the ones you fucked up on after getting good if it still bothers you. Everyone usually sucks at the start of the hobby. Only through painting your dudes can you make them not shit. Think about it this way, everyone that you didn't paint yet is trapped in a shitty mono grey paintjob hell until you paint them. Only through using the brush will your minis not suck.

>>96414505
what qualifys as cheap minis? anything not GW crack prices?

>>96414516
I'm shilling and I don't care.
EM4's plastic orc and dwarf miniatures are good bulk minis if you're just looking for minis to "get a feel" for your paints and then working on more detailed projects.
Their plastic mechs also serve such a purpose too if you're not fancying fantasy minis.
They're old school looking though. I hope that's not a turnoff.

>>96414526
will look in to that. old school is not a disqualifyer.

>>96414516
Whatever you like that you would want to paint as practice. Example if you want to paint some orcs than get some cheap fantasy orcs to practice green skin. If you play humans then cheap army men to get a hang of thinning your paint and testing your scheme. Just get some dudes you think look cool that use the same color scheme as your good models.

>>96414526
Do as anon says >>96414516 are a perfect example.

>>96414545
>Posted in the wrong order.
FUUUUUU

>>96412777
Alright, thanks.

>>96411070
> bet there is a neat application here where you temperature control this and let it sit at 80C for a while
a sous vide?

>>96411595
pros use wax, you can use plastiline too

I've put together some traitor guard vehicles, and now i am waiting for the weather to get better so i can start to prime them. Maybe its really time to get an airbrush.

Relictor dreadnought im finishing up. Totally fucked the plasmagun in the hand but happy otherwise. I hate the fucking seam on the head though

>>96415212
>plastiline

Won't that stick too? There is also polymer clay but with 60-80C range it might partially cure. Unless material cools down rapidly when poured.

>>96414516
Printed minis. You can even print/buy printed painting pads with different textures to train on.

>>96415675
The paintjob looks good, but anon, you definitely need to up your cleanup/filling game. It's easy, and it pay dividends.

>>96415811
>You can even print/buy printed painting pads with different textures to train on.

Thats kinda silly tho, because its not noticable cheaper than just buying a couple of random D&D minis to train.

>>96415841
Printing them on your own is easily the cheapest option. You can also print them on some public printer (they are sometimes in libraries where I live).

practice on nice minis you like the look of. you can always strip them later. buying cheap shit that's going to look bad even if you do a passable job is a waste of your money.

>>96415690
can't speak for that molding material but it is usally used to make the first side of two part molds with silicone

>>96415857
Sure, but if you have a printer, you can just print miniatures too. (or use the public printer if its available). These "training pads" are nice, if they were free. But the moment you have to print or buy them, you can just get miniatures with pretty much the same investment.

>>96415875
pretty much this. Someone mentioned Army Men for practice. You cant buy them individually to my knowledge, and a bag of 50-100 only cost you 5€. So the lost money isn't going to hurt that much.
But what you get is some soft plastic miniatures, with usually horrible mold lines and often very soft details.
Sure, you can struggle to get the mold lines clean, and then try to make the primer stick, and then try to actually paint them with techniques not meant for miniatures like that.
Using shitty miniatures like that to train will ruin your fun at miniature painting for sure.

Just buy a box of regular wargaming minis that you actually like. And then paint them. Do 30-40€ really hurt that much as a hobby expense from which you benefit for years to come?
Is the 25-30€ potential "savings" worth it to struggle around with shitty army men when you instead could use something sculpted by the Perries, by Victrix or Northstar instead?

"just print miniatures" as if that isn't a whole other complicated hobby

Okay, tried using UV resin with those molds from yesterday and while they turned out shit, I'm pretty sure it can be done in the end. UV resin is quite thick so it failed to reach all parts of the mold so I guess I have to open it and pour it more directly into cavities. Leaving it under direct sunlight for 30 minutes (mind you, they claim that it should cure after 5 minutes under sunlight and 2 minutes under UV lamp) made it mostly cured but breaking off one of supports made some resin pour out so I guess it requires more time to passively cure under normal light. I need to get better method of mounting parts and your suggestions of using hot glue sounds plausible (I hope I can just melt this glue with wire heated with a zipper, my gun is quite big and unhandy) and some method to get rid of air bubbles - probably some sort of shaking and pouring more slowly (which rise another problem of mentioned Fleximold cooling down while being poured).

Overall - fucked up on so many levels but also learned a bit so it's not complete time waste. And unless I figure out how to solve problem of Milliput copies in Blue Stuff molds being bigger than they should, this is my only potential method for making good copies of small elements.

>>96415986
Its no more complicated than to use an airbrush for priming.

>>96415986
That's a bit of a meme of old, anon. Nowadays, it's very streamlined. You can print pretty good quality minis with default everything and zero tinkering. The real hobby part comes when you want to print really tiny stuff without any printlines/artifacts.

>>96416032
Those cure times are when the resin itself isnt in a mold.
You are blocking 90% of the light reaching it, of course it wont cure quickly

>>96414471
I had this same problem with gunpla, and so I decided to just buy some minis and paint. Once I overcame that initial trepidation, it didn't matter if I screwed up because I enjoyed it so much that I wanted to keep on painting. It helps to know that if you do fuck up royally, you can strip the paint and start over, but really my advice to you is to just start, and then after that, keep on painting and painting.

>>96414471
>fear of failure
Its just a miniature Anon. Just a silly toy at the end of it. You are not entering a competition with it. You just put some paint there, and if you really mess up, you can take that mini in 2 years, and repaint it with your advanced knowledge and skill by then.
But to get that knowledge and skill, you need to actually paint.

What this Anon Says: >>96416118
> just start,

This. Just paint. And relax while doing it.

>>96414471
What the other replies said - just dive in and have fun. You can also get tips from experienced painters on YouTube - I have learned a lot from watching the channels of (Saint) Duncan Rhodes, Zumitiko, Vince Venturella Artis Opus, Ninjon, Miniac, and others.

The things that have helped me the most have been:

1. Good lighting - you can pick up a couple of worklights from your local hardware store for $20 each

2. A magnifier (magnifying glasses cost $20 on Amazon, or a desk-mounted magnifier with light for $40

3. Good brushes - Windsor and Newton Series 7 cost $20 each but boy are they worth it

4. Decent paints - Army Painter, Vallejo, Citadel (I use speedpaints but that's for a specific technique).

5. An airbrush (I know, it's intimidating). A starter airbrush and compressor is around $100 on Amazon. If you're just starting you don't need this yet but it will help a TON when you get to that point where you realize what it can do.

Hope this helps, just get into the hobby and enjoy yourself. Your first few will probably not be great, but it doesn't matter. There's a learning curve, don't be afraid to climb it.

>>96416032
For small pieces I'd go with regular latex>resin molding and let it dry for a while - I usually run the process over a weekend and release from the mold the following weekend.

This will sound silly, but for UV-sensitive stuff I usually take advice from my fiancee, since she does gel nails at home. Her nail kit includes a curing light, which I occasionally co-opt. Just don't spill anything on it unless you want to get yelled at by your significant other. :)

>>96416172
Painting minis is just like sex - the first few times will probably be a bit frustrating but eventually you get good at it and after that it's really fun. :P

>>96416210
Except painting minis normally doesn't end with anybody crying.

>>96416172
>decent paints
>army painter
>no AK
>W&N instead of Rosemary
>shittubers like ninjon
Anon, I...

>>96416198
Thing is, I don't have workshop, just my desk - hence my idea of trying reusable, safe solutions (like Blue Stuff or Fleximold instead of silicone or UV resin, Milliput, water soluble acrylic resin instead of "normal" resin).

Yeah, UV lamp for nails would probably be better than flashlight. No idea if it makes sense to buy one at this point but I will consider.

>significant other
Good joke. Not.

>>96416237
None of these things really makes a huge difference. thats like finetuning.

>>96416172
>Zumikito
>Ninjon
Didn't read beyond that. Fuck off, unironically.

>>96416033
I wouldn't airbrushes for beginners either. Rattlecan and a brush until you've finished your first whole army project and know if the investment is worth it and an airbrush might actually suit your specific needs.

>>96416237
army painter has been good since they revamped their entire main paint line. their washes were always good but the jump in quality otherwise was incredible.

>>96416378
Seconded. They used to be pretty bad but these days they're really good.

>>96416218
30% of painting sessions with my wife end in her crying because she put a highlight in the wrong place and now the model is """ruined"""

>>96416422
Your wife is a crazy attention whore

>>96416484
Shes just autistic

>>96416493
Why would you marry someone with the tism?

>>96416504
Because she understands and forgives my tism in return
Also because I can make her entire month by buying her 1 frog related item, shes very low maintenance

A couple of questions:

For individual models (not armies), which are the best manufacturers? WizKids has terrible casting on their humanoid models and I don't buy them, Reaper metal seems better, but what are the best options?

Non-metallic metals - I usually use regular metals but tried NMM recently. Blending seems to be an issue - any pointers?

Thanks!

>>96416592
>For individual models (not armies), which are the best manufacturers?

What exactly are you looking for?
Dark Sword Miniatures is excellent for example, but if you wanted to buy Sci-Fi Rambo type heroes, they would not be able to help you.
Hasslefree would be another very good manufacturer, but the original owner works for FW now, and the new owner/co-owner or something ran the company to the ground and rather streams blood bowl on twitch than to ship out orders.

Reaper (especially the metal minis) is quite good too. Depends a lot on the sculptor, and your taste obviously. But they have a massive range, so you are pretty much guaranteed to find something you like.

Also, 3d printed stuff. Some digital sculptors are extremely good.

>>96416645
>Dark Sword Miniatures
Thanks. I already use Dark Sword miniatures - love their Tony DiTerlizzi line. Also had good luck with some 3D-printed suppliers. I'll check out Hasslefree but with the qualifiers you mention.

>>96416422
Also how 30% of my painting sessions end to be honest. Probably more like 80% even.

>>96416682
Archon Studio has some amazing miniatures in their Dungeons+Lasers/Fantasy range.

>>96416504
I highly recommend autistic girlfriends, they lack the most annoying female traits, like illogical thinking and drama seeking.

>>96416246
For small pieces, I'd go with the two-stage silicone/resin, and take your time. Example attached _ i had to cast a lower jaw from an intact copy of a mini for an incomplete one. Took a few tries but worked OK eventually. Bubbles were a problem, honestly.

>>96416833
Pop culture reference to snag some whales for a quick buck.
What game actually has a xenomorph dragon though? None, so it's just dust-gathering after you waste your money.

>>96410139
>>96410152
>>96410164

I know I’m late to the party but I don’t see the appeal of contrast paints. I followed a cult of paint video on lizardmen, which led me to a different tangent I’ll touch on later.

I’ve tried diluting with contrast medium, lahmian, different brands of thinner, straight from the pot…it always looks like shit, no matter how you use it. I know, I know, you’re supposed to work on highlights after you use contrast, but here’s the tangent:
I’ve been painting for 15+ years (not saying I’m perfect at it, just saying I know what I’m doing most of the time) and I’ve followed their tutorial 100% because I want to add contrast to my arsenal/techniques. There’s no fucking way the model turns out as they say in the video by following their steps.

So my 2 questions would be: do contrast have any type of use outside of slapchop+contrast to get armies looking awful but finished in little time at least?
And how often have you found painters using different techniques as the ones they’re showing on their videos? Like I get you want views and maybe hide some proper schemes behind paywall but don’t show them for free then if you’re being purposely misleading.
Pic related is the wip on the lizard man, which I’m hating

>>96416846
Why such negativity? Its one dragon among like 20 different sculpts. You dont like it? maybe one of the other models suits your taste better.

>What game actually has a xenomorph dragon though?
>None

Wrong.
Every single game that lets you use miniatures of your own choosing.

>>96416846
>whales

Its like 20€.

>>96417019
youtube painters are getting paid to promote stuff like contrast paints. "slapchop" was an ad campaign. the ones that aren't getting paid are copying the content of the popular channels that are, hoping to get viewership.

contrast paints suck for anything more than colouring in a lot of models quickly. fine for new painters but if you've already learned basics like layers and blending then they aren't helpful at all.

>>96417019
I'm not very good at this technique so YMMV, but I think it relies on the undercoats to give you the contrast. Then you just use the contrast paint as an ink on top. And all the coats have to be thin since you're using primer>grey>white undercoats plus the ink, plus highlights (ie 5 coats).

I use the regular approach but also add in a wash if the depth looks problematic.

Hope this helps - other anons will know more than I do. I think the key is to let the undercoats to the contrast work for you.

Your mini is well primed and undercoated but there's not much contrast, so there won't be a lot of contrast

>>96416592
>>96416645
>Depends a lot on the sculptor, and your taste obviously.
Julie Guthrie sculpted a lot of metal fantasy models for Reaper, and they still sell those. Her work is very classic and comfy, like old Larry Elmore or Bill Willingham D&D paintings.

>>96417019
look at Warhipster, he makes Contrast look great, and he has some tutorial videos on how to best use it.

>>96417098
>but if you've already learned basics like layers and blending then they aren't helpful at all.

How so?
You said yourself:
>colouring in a lot of models quickly

This is completely unrelated to your skill level.

>>96417210
colouring in and painting something that looks good are different things. there's no stage in my basic marine recipe that would benefit from alayer of contrast paint.

>>96417271
And what if, for some reason, you want to paint 60 ungors and 60 gors quickly?

>>96417146
I've wanted to express this for a while, and this is the first opportunity I've found where someone might know what the hell I'm talking about: I dislike the amount of Werner Klocke's sculpts on Reaper recently. I don't care much for his aesthetic and they're always a few bucks more expensive than the other sculptors'. I will say I admire his willingness to make 'sexy' minis, even if they don't match my tastes.

>>96417019
Citadel were being misleading with their advertising by trying to sell contrasts as an actual alternative to "basecoat+wash". They're speedpaints which is how most other manufacturers advertise it and they work for that - quickly painting a lot of models to tabletop standard. Unless you're willing to put effort into learning the "proper" technique the results will always be subpar to "traditional" painting. I use them diluted as washes, glazes and to tint/shade metallics and they work great for that.

>>96417282
Contrast paints are useful for colouring in quickly, as I said. A couple of rattlecans and some quickshade dip was popular for tournament players who didn't give a shit about the art side of the hobby.

>>96416846
>not playing with a model you have to build and paint is a waste of money
do you even hobby?

>>96417324
You contradict yourself. Painting quickly is useful for everyone in some situations, and it has nothing to do with that painters skill level. Simple as that. Just because you can paint well, does not mean its worth it for every miniature. And here come Contrast paints into play.

>>96417292
I get it, man. Klocke's sculpts look like 3D versions of edgy video game concept art, and ... well, I already said how I feel about old Julie Guthrie models.

>>96417485
sure, if people who know how to paint want to churn out garbage for some reason they can buy contrast paints even though there are plenty of other ways they could get the same level of result just as fast. store them next to the wax crayons and safety scissors.

>>96414477
>4
I'm not sure if you're referring to the headless guy or the green guy.

Getting tired of this guy, but the end is in sight

>>96417292
I've bought a couple of minis from both Julie Guthrie and Werner Klocke, and really like some of them (I think this one is by him?) but don't like others Point taken though - no way I'd buy his French Maid - I have kids! :)

But overall I do like the Reaper metal models - detail seems pretty decent.

>>96417508
Thanks for these - I have quite a lot of the older Grenadier miniatures. Old school for the win!

I should check out more of her stuff.

>>96417067
It's an impulse buy, that's 20 quid that should be in your pocket.
The biggest whales aren't the guys making single thousand dollar buys, its the guys making thousands of 5 dollar buys, etc...
>>96417050
>Every single game that lets you use miniatures of your own choosing
If you sit down with MLP marines or any other s0i hipster crap you aren't getting many games.

>40kg is running it's own SS this year
What, why?

>>96417786
Holy shit, what a terrible idea. Enjoy getting cum brownies or anthrax or something.

>>96417814
We run one here in /wip/ every year and that's never happened.
Though i assume /40kg/ is more feral

>>96417786
They're trying to salvage the thread by doing some community stuff, there's also a monthly themed painting collage. Not bad initiatives and I feel those did improve the general a bit. The usual shitposters and secondaries are still there of course so it's obviously a mixed bag.
>>96417814
The requirment for participation is posting a timestamped model picture so that should weed out a lot of schizos

>>96417818
Well, there was the mysterious jar, and also the dead lizard. But /40kg/ is a whole different level than us here.

>>96417818
Oh I know, I participate. But I trust /wip/. /40kg/ is full of weirdos. /wip/ is full of people who are trying to get better at painting minis. We have friendly, helpful, and wholesome anons for the most part. /40kg/ posts my socials every time I post a model there (which I don't do anymore), and they are just constantly complaining about shit as #gamers tend to, so I hate them.
The worst I've seen in this thread is at some point somebody vaguepost complaining without naming anybody about people also posting to **ddit, and everybody just told that person to shut up.

>The requirment for participation is posting a timestamped model picture
Oh, well that's good at least. Most of them will be too ashamed to post the models they paint I would imagine.

>>96417838
I do miss the jar
I sat with it in my house for a full year, added my own glue and shipped it off and the guy never posted.
Granted it might have had something to do with the war that broke out

>>96417889
>/wip/ is full of people who are trying to get better at painting minis
I know for a fact that one anon here posts nudes in /btg/ and "paints" with markers.

>>96418043
Are they at least hot?

Working on this sucker

>>96418043
I know who you're talking about and he hasn't posted his shit here in a while. Same with that nazi faggot(also from /btg/ ironically) who is highly likely craftsperg and possibly perryfag from /wfg/. We're on 4chan after all, you can't escape the schizos. Anway sorry about that, enough metathread bullshit, let's get back on topic.

>>96418091
>that nazi faggot
I've never seen the nazi post anything except painted minis, so what exactly are you bitching about?
Whereas the other one that you brush off with a flippant "oh but it's been awhile!" is an actual faggot who has repeatedly admitted they only come around here to shove their faggotry in the faces of people who don't want to be on reddit or discord.

>>96418466
I assume that other person is the one who always posted pics with various sex toys and shit in the background on purpose?

>>96406783 (OP)
Done with this castellan/marshal kitbash from an emperor's champion, with bits taken from here and there. Primer didn't cooperate but I'm okay with the final result

>>96418091
>nazi faggot
nigger loving leftist retard

It's getting there
>>96418701
Wow okay maybe it's not, maybe I need to try harder
Excellent work anon

>>96418701
Nice, I think dropping the cape was the good call

>>96409125
What's their parent chapter? What do they do?

>>96418701
excellent work as always, BTanon.

>>96418091
craftsperg is the nazi larper, yes. He's been pretty fucking silent since he got outed for painting futa bulges.

>>96418701
aaaaah, this will make a fine addition to my collection (of bt anon images for reference)!!

>>96418466
>>96418712
>thinking the edgy dogwhistles is what I have issue with
lmao okay

>>96418776
Don't put yourself down, it looks great. The other one is also great but has better lighting and background. :)

>>96418831
>I think dropping the cape was the good call
Do you remember ... Thunderhead?

Here is the last of the lava bois done! I still have some more chaos guys, but that will be in a Cheeto orange desert scheme. Overall, these were fun and a good exercise in lava and some osl practice. I hope you guys like em

And then the actual warband of freakazoids

>>96419026
nice, the lava looks really good. And I applaud your attempt at a backdrop.

Hey WIP.
My cheap cutters are developing rust after I want to say 4 years maybe longer than that.
Any particular good specific replacement cutters?
Feel free to shill specific models with links. I'd appreciate if that happened.

>>96419201
I use tamiyas sharp pointed side cutters and I can recommend them guilt free. They're pricey but the cuts are really nice and clean.

>>96416172
i have a big one that i use for a pneumatic drill for taking off tires, that too big?
>>96416166 (nice dubs) >>96416118
thanks for the advice. guess i need to find a way to calm my head to start i guess

Santanon, are we going to be quarantining the burgers for secret santa this year? Seems like most postal services are cutting them off.